"Coral" isn't that something for horses?

[hamdogg08]

I have an embarasing limited amount of experience with corals. I'd like a little help, and possibly the go-ahead on some Ideas that I have.

My 75 gallon doesn't have a sump, and has an octopus HOB skimmer, a 4x65 watt power compact light, and a generic flourescent light (came with the tank). I'm thinking that the skimmer's a bit under-sized for the tank, and plan on doing a dirty softy tank. My question is two-fold:

-Is my tank considered low light, or moderate light? Most of the research on coral requirements refer to low, moderate, or strong light, so I'm wondering which one I am.

-Any good ideas on which corals to keep? The GF likes bubble anemones, would that be OK in thet tank? I am also a fan of the finger leather coral (mainly because I can frag it out and recoup some of the cost of buying it fairly easily) Are these guys OK in the tank, or is it not a hospitible environment?

Thanks a bunch
-Dan

[benihana]

I think you will be fine with what you are looking at keeping. The Anemone may need to get fed, but I sucessfully kept one in my 75 with the same light fixture for about 6 months until I switched to T5's. You will be more than fine for all softies.

You would probably be fine to even get into some LPS as they do not require as much light as sps do

HTH

[David Grigor]

Dan, The upper 1/3 I'd consider moderate, the rest low. Your plans sounds fine as far as lighting requirements go. Some finger corals ( like the commonly called green mumps ) do require more light than others to maintain bright color so really depends on what you have. Three are also some really nice banana yellow elegans that are also high light and likely won't do as well for you. But in general most will. Softy frag demand comes and goes but generally can't get a whole lot for them. Keep the frags $10 or less and don't make dozens at a time and likely can resale them. Obviously the better color the better resale. If wanting to earn a little to keep the tank expenses down, zoanthids are generally more demand than softies.

[hamdogg08]

Thanks for the timely reply, guys. Just a quick question regarding resale prices: What's considered "fair" pricing? Is there a rule of thumb based on type of coral (LPS, Zoo, Leather, SPS, Anemone etc...) Or possibly size? I'd just like to be fair, and not be "that guy that's always overpricing corals". Nobody likes that guy!!:mad_3:

[David Grigor]

Keeping most around $5-10 each is more than fair IMO for those that aren't considered rare. Makes it a win/win for both parties. Anemones really depends on size, type, color. Rose ones of any size $40 seems to be about the going rate. A nice green with pink tips about the same. More typical green ones about half that.

[hamdogg08]

...And how big should the frags be? Once again, I don't want to rip anyone off...That'd just be lame.

[David Grigor]

Really if keeping around $5-10 range, I don't think anyone would feel ripped of. Especially consider that's at least 1/3the price of LFS or mail order.

Tough call with softies, depends on what it is. Anywhere from 1/2" to 3". If it's a nicer coral ( good coloration ) to keep the price about the same would make it smaller. Again, you will get a good feel for it when they sell or don't sell and adjust accordingly. Any soft corals I be sure to mount them and don't sell unmounted because you dealing mostly with newbies would don't really have the expertise yet to get them to mount. I generally wait about 2-3 months after mounting before offering for sale but everyone is different and don't always have room to wait that long.

For zoanthids, I personally shoot for about 10 polyp frags. I don't usually sell less than that at a time but if something really rare or high demand I would consider.

[hamdogg08]

Tough call with softies, depends on what it is. Anywhere from 1/2" to 3". If it's a nicer coral ( good coloration ) to keep the price about the same would make it smaller. Again, you will get a good feel for it when they sell or don't sell and adjust accordingly. Any soft corals I be sure to mount them and don't sell unmounted because you dealing mostly with newbies would don't really have the expertise yet to get them to mount.

...So now the mounting question: My preference is super glue applied to live rock. Then I just epoxy the frag to a bigger piece. What is "the industry standard" on mounting frags? I don't really have a problem with picking up some plugs or discs...that's totally fine.

[hypertech]

FWIW - I tried and couldn't sell Kenya Tree frags for $2 a couple weeks ago. I wound up giving them away and had to throw away a handful of branches it dropped.

Perhaps when summer is over I'll have better luck.

Industry standard for frags would be small chunks of rocks or plugs - it doesn't really matter that much. For softies, you need to use the rubber band or fishing line method to hold them to the rock long enough for them to attach on their own. They don't really glue very well.

[benihana]

I think size/pricing is up to you, and you will find that there is a "norm" so to speak that most go for, but that really is going to depend on the color morph.

generally, most mount their frags on frag discs, but I usually work that out with the buyer if I haven't fragged them yet, again, usually fine either way

[curlyq]

In my experience, I can't get softies to glue to anything....they need to attach on their own. This usually isn't very tough though. I just put a small breeder net in my sump (so there's water circulation, but VERY low flow) put a small rock, shell, etc and set the frag on top. Sometimes a rubber band is needed to keep the piece in place. Let it sit a few weeks and now you have a mounted softy frag! The superglueing you hear of generally is in reference to SPS and LPS frags that have a calcium skeleton for the glue to stick to.

[David Grigor]

Super glue works for zoanthids and anything with a hard skeleton but really doesn't work for mushrooms or leathers that can expand or contract. For leathers, I prefer to use needle, dental floss. Thread it though the base then super glue then ends of the floss with super glue. Just tight enough that it doesn't move around but not too tight to just cut through it over time. You will get a feel for it after a while. Takes about 2 weeks to attach. It works about 80%+. Much higher success rate than with rubberbands as it is more dificult to apply enough tension without the rubberband cutting through the softy.

[wes]

I've also used cheese cloth wrapped around a leather and a rock. Also took about 2 weeks. You can also just let leathers attach to coarse-grained sand in a low flow area and then glue them where ever. I've done that out of laziness a couple times.

[hamdogg08]

Can I keep frogspawn, anemones, and/or hammer corals??

[David Grigor]

Frogspawn and hammers do fine together but if an anemone starts moving around, the anemone could be damaged by them. If you plan to propagate anemeone to sell then I would do so in a seperate tank.

[hamdogg08]

No props, just wanted to know if I can keep them under the PC lighting.

[benihana]

No props, just wanted to know if I can keep them under the PC lighting.


you will be fine

[hypertech]

I know people say its OK, but an RBTA and maybe even a GBTA does not belong under PCs. If it starts getting pale and/or whitish, it needs more light.

There are several other kinds of anemone's though that would be just fine.

[hamdogg08]

Like:


Don't leave me hangin' man!

[hypertech]

long tentacle, condy, sabae, tube, etc.

[Dalailammy]

UV Lighting Company now has Power Compact-R bulbs with 180 degree internal reflector. Or at least they advertise them now. When it comes time to change bulbs that could get you a little more light.

[spectrum]

I had Freshfish's GBTA under my 96Watt Pc for like six months and was fine.