40 Breeder Build

[PaulTushaus]

Just got my new 40 breeder home from Aaron's (Scubaspew's) house I absolutely LOVE the dimensions on this tank, here it is all cleaned up and ready for me to get my butt moving on building the sump, and canopy. Thanks a million buddy for the awesome deal on the tank!
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/40breeder2.jpg

[NandKBlock]

I LOVE the build threads, keep the updates coming! :beerchug:

[this1fish]

yeah seems like everyone is making a build thread.... i should go make one too then! LoL :gay1:

the 40B is probably one of the tanks with the best dimensions....i regret taking mines down as i miss it so...looking forward to see what you do to it.

[PaulTushaus]

BTW any suggestions are welcome I am still in the planning process I plan on doing 2x150w MH and 2x29w regular t5 for wake up and before lights out, thinking 1" SSB (can I do that shallow of sand bed...?) I am going to be running an aqua-c remora pro protein skimmer w/ mag 3 and I have yet to figure out what size sump I can fit through the doors. Like I said suggest away I want to do this tank the "right" way and hope that I can benefit from everyone's experiences.
thanks in advance for the input :biggthumpup:

[scubaspew]

Awesome cleaning job man, and wow, quick. You are truly motivated awesome, can't wait to check up on the progress. Oh and your welcome! Thanks for your help and honestly you saw my apartment, I have no room to store anything so thank you! Glad to see it made it home safely!

[scubaspew]

I would put a 20 high for a sump in that tank, Dhummel has one for sale for cheap too! The most water volume I think you will fit in that stand easily, although I'm not sure it the remora will fit in there on a 20 high, you'll have to take some measurements.

[PaulTushaus]

I'll bring my tape measure up to petco tomorrow :gay1:

[scubaspew]

I'll bring my tape measure up to petco tomorrow :gay1:

Dude, I seriously bought a pocket sized tape measure halfway through my build that I could take everywhere I went with me, it's huge that and your math, off even a little bit on anything can be a costly and well frustrating experience, somehow most of my build was off by almost an eighth of an inch and it caused me so much more work in the long term!

[this1fish]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/LVT/IMG00395.jpg

I use two tanks for my sump/refugium. the overflow(1in) flows down into the first tank, which is a 15gH(tank on right). This tank being taller allows the water to flow from the bulk head(3/4in) into the next tank, which is a 15gL(tank on left). The 15gL then has a baffle and on the otherside of the baffle is the return pump.

bulkhead going from 15gH to 15gL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/LVT/IMG00396.jpg

baffle and return pump(quietone1200, 296gph) on the 15gL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/LVT/IMG00404.jpg

another view of the baffle on the 15gL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/LVT/IMG00409.jpg

Im the kinda guy who absolutely needs a refugium so that is why i did this setup. For a refugium to be even useful, it has to hold a good amount of volume and a good amount of macro/micro algae to be productive. having a little section for a refuge is almost useless in a sump.

next the 15gL is long and wide enough to hold a big skimmer(comming in the near fuiture) and give you the room to move it around and move around it if needed.

Oh and the best thing is, You can disconnect the two tanks and take them out seperately to clean if you ever needed. they slide right out and is much much lighter than one big tank.

[PaulTushaus]

I hope mine goes smoothly but I don't think it will I am just going to plan, plan, plan, and measure everything twice, I think your build was inherently more complicated than mine will be I am thinking I might just buy an overflow box and be done with it RR would be nice but I don't know if I want to go to all the extra trouble and $$ to do it...

[PaulTushaus]

Nice!! good idea are those inside of a 40br stand...?

[this1fish]

nope, this is the stand for my 24x24x12 starphire tank. the dimensions for the stand is 29inLX28.5inwX29inH. I think you saw it when you came to buy the Sunpod. I don't think you'll be able to fit both these tanks in your stand, but it'll give you an idea so that you can find or use tanks that'll fit under your stand.

[scubaspew]

I hope mine goes smoothly but I don't think it will I am just going to plan, plan, plan, and measure everything twice, I think your build was inherently more complicated than mine will be I am thinking I might just buy an overflow box and be done with it RR would be nice but I don't know if I want to go to all the extra trouble and $$ to do it...

You got the right idea, plan, plan, plan, measure everything twice. Hey man look at it this way, you don't have to build the stand!

[this1fish]

I hope mine goes smoothly but I don't think it will I am just going to plan, plan, plan, and measure everything twice, I think your build was inherently more complicated than mine will be I am thinking I might just buy an overflow box and be done with it RR would be nice but I don't know if I want to go to all the extra trouble and $$ to do it...

btw, i've done it before and it's VERY EASY for my 40B..... basically have storrisch or someone on this site drill the tank for you. Drill for a 1in bulkhead....actually drill for two bulk heads on the back glass. I bought my two overflows from OD which cost 45each, dunno if that's too much or cheap but oh wells i needed them at the time. DO not buy those overflow boxes like cpr and etcc... they tend to fail and you will flood over and over again... drilling is the way to go. This was able to handle alot of flow(ran backyard hose to the max, tank didnt even flood) and i used a 800gph return pump on mine. Spend the money, do it right!

[scubaspew]

btw, i've done it before and it's VERY EASY for my 40B..... basically have storrisch or someone on this site drill the tank for you. Drill for a 1in bulkhead....actually drill for two bulk heads on the back glass. I bought my two overflows from OD which cost 45each, dunno if that's too much or cheap but oh wells i needed them at the time. DO not buy those overflow boxes like cpr and etcc... they tend to fail and you will flood over and over again... drilling is the way to go. This was able to handle alot of flow(ran backhard hose to the max, tank didnt even flood) and i used a 800gph return pump on mine. Spend the money, do it right!

Agreed!

[hypertech]

Usually, on a 40B, you can drill the bottom too. BRS is a good place to get the bulkheads from if they don't come in the overflow kit - I have no idea what OD sells for that.

[scubaspew]

Go to Saltwater Empire dude, for sure! Talk to Li.

[PaulTushaus]

I did talk to Li he told me I could use their drill but he could not drill it for me, I suppose if I can get it drilled for free the overflow box is going to cost about the same as the hang on overflow boxes so I am down, If anyone has a drill or has experience drilling tanks and could meet me at SWE and wants to help me out with this please PM me, I would sincerely appreciate it. BTW if you accidentally crack the tank I am not going to freak out or be a D***** bag about it I am not that kind of guy so please don't be afraid to speak up.

[scubaspew]

I did talk to Li he told me I could use their drill but he could not drill it for me, I suppose if I can get it drilled for free the overflow box is going to cost about the same as the hang on overflow boxes so I am down, If anyone has a drill or has experience drilling tanks and could meet me at SWE and wants to help me out with this please PM me, I would sincerely appreciate it. BTW if you accidentally crack the tank I am not going to freak out or be a D***** bag about it I am not that kind of guy so please don't be afraid to speak up.

I'd help if I could but I have never drilled glass. I know there are people on here that have and can, I hope you find someone to help you out. If you need help or advice with anything else, just let me know.

[kvmn]

paul do you have a electric drill????
i have a drill bit for 1" bulkhead,,,
i can stop by your house after work and quick show you how,,,very ez,,
i work in waconia so passing by chaska everyday,,lmk anything i would help

[NandKBlock]

You can definitely do a 1" SSB, even less. Just be aware that you won't have any low oxygen zones in there for the bacteria that process nitrate. I have a SSB like you're planning in my display and then a DSB in my refugium.

I commend you for taking the time to research and plan everything, you'll have much better results in the end.

If you are going with overflows as opposed to drilling, talk to Kelly (wkjames), he was just telling me about his foolproof overflow system. Very impressive.

[kvmn]

or bring it to my house on tuesday, i can quick help you, glag you close by

[PaulTushaus]

Heres a pic of building the overflow with kvmn (he is taking the picture of me)...
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/overflow1.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

and here is the finished overflow
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/overflowfinished.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

thanks for all the help man, you saved me a huge headache, also he has one of the most amazing tanks I have ever seen, he's got more tang(s) than an astronaut in that thing, that Sohal is BA!! AWESOME! thanks a million buddy!

[scubaspew]

and here is the finished overflow
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/overflowfinished.jpg

Good job man, awesome! Super fast progress already!

[kvmn]

hey,,glag i could help,,it didn't take too long to drill and make overflow box,,,
also i think its good idea to add this to you return line (swing check valve)
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~category~Swing_Check_Valve_(FPT_x_FPT) _Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Plumbing_Parts_Valves _Swing_Check~vendor~Spears~SearchStr~check+valve~a ction~view~idProduct~FT9033~idCategory~FIFTVLCV.ht ml

[hypertech]

Check valves are trouble. You'll be fine so long as you have a an anti-siphon hole and/or your sump can take the volume that comes back down when you shut the pump off.

[kvmn]

i think an idea to have both is alway better then just anti-siphon hole


QUOTE=hypertech;177017]Check valves are trouble. You'll be fine so long as you have a an anti-siphon hole and/or your sump can take the volume that comes back down when you shut the pump off.[/QUOTE]

[MAXreefer]

An emergency drain would be the best solution but I guess in your case that is not an option?

If you want to go with the check valve look at BRS website. You can pick them up from them and they are a sponsor. They have the ones you can completely take apart to clean.
Here is the link: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Plumbing-and-Pumps-Schedule-80-Plumbing-Schedule-80-Valves-Quality-Check-Valves/c14_15_16_19/index.html

[PaulTushaus]

WHEW!! spent 4 hours tonight cleaning out my new "fish room" emptied a cabinet for all my fish stuff and moved the tank in there here it is after cleaning ect...http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/fishroom.jpg

[NandKBlock]

Nice. You've got all your stuff nice and close but just close those doors and poof! All gone. Definitely girlfriend/wife approved. ;)
:beerchug:

[PaulTushaus]

Nice. You've got all your stuff nice and close but just close those doors and poof! All gone. Definitely girlfriend/wife approved. ;)
:beerchug:
lol right? she actually seemed to be getting excited about the new tank so I asked her and she said "no, I'm just excited to get the other one out of the bed room!" :rotflmao:

[RaysReef]

Nice build and great progress...unlike mine, lol
*messy*

[RaysReef]

You mentioned running 2- 150w MH and T5. thats quite a bit for a 40B I believe it measures 36Lx18Wx16H I have a 48Lx24W and my 250w MH is covering alot of ground w/T5s combo. You may want to try a 150w in the center of the 40B and see how that covers your setup first before setting up 2 of them. I also painted my tank black (sides/back/bottom) to retain as much light in the tank as I can.

Also I keep my room @ 70 and with MH my tank stays @ 77 even after 8 hrs. of it on. It is 16 in. above my frag tank and another 12 in. (Bottom of the tank)

[PaulTushaus]

I got more to do than you I think.... I still need to plumb, make sump, build canopy, drill and aquascape rocks, then drill all the rocks for pegging, cycle the dry rock I was just given, pretty daunting.... but hopefully in a month and a half at the latest I will have all my fish and corals moved in.

[this1fish]

good progress though........ took me forever to plumb my starphire tank.... mainly because i was lazy and didnt really want to set it up til i got the clowns....

[PaulTushaus]

You mentioned running 2- 150w MH and T5. thats quite a bit for a 40B I believe it measures 36Lx18Wx16H I have a 48Lx24W and my 250w MH is covering alot of ground w/T5s combo. You may want to try a 150w in the center of the 40B and see how that covers your setup first before setting up 2 of them. I also painted my tank black (sides/back/bottom) to retain as much light in the tank as I can.

Also I keep my room @ 70 and with MH my tank stays @ 77 even after 8 hrs. of it on. It is 16 in. above my frag tank and another 12 in. (Bottom of the tank)
I would love to see pics! I have the MH currently on my 24 aquapod I was gonna use that sunpod and get another 150w MH pendant, and build a canopy for everything, the sunpod seems to be more like a spot light in my tank now thats why I was worried, also I wasn't going to use the t5 for anything besides sunrise/sunset, so 2 hours t5, then t5s off, and 8 hours MH, then 2 more hours t5 they are only regular t5 not T5HO, thanks for the suggestion please keep em coming people I want this tank done right! any more suggestions are very welcome especially any people who have had 40br before :biggthumpup:

[RaysReef]

I would recommend getting a reflector instead of a pendant to cover your tank length wise. Also it would not look like you have a spot light, unless that is the look your going for. I actually have an extra Lumenmax reflector since now I'm only going to use one. Also I have a Econowing reflector (not fully enclosed) that you can have if you wish *No Charge* They both use mogul bulbs SE and have female adaptors. Here is my frag tank so far. It is still a working progress. The Right side with sand is currently testing out some frags before I load up my main corals and the left is all zoas/palys

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w103/SoGoneRG/P4300002.jpg http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w103/SoGoneRG/P4300004.jpg http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w103/SoGoneRG/P4300003.jpg

Everything is blooming and opening nicely with only 250w MH upgraded to 20k.

[scubaspew]

I'm curious as to how you are going to run the t5's with the MH, won't they be in the way of some of the MH spectrum or coverage, or do you really plan to take them of the tank while the halides run? If not where on the tank would you put them, fron or back and why? Running the MH side by side, how do you plan to hang them together, just curious, may have some advice but I'm not sure as to your plan.

[RaysReef]

I'm curious as to how you are going to run the t5's with the MH, won't they be in the way of some of the MH spectrum or coverage, (I was thinking of using T5s width wise @ 24" beside the MH hanging slightly lower so it won't cover the spectrum or possibly get a 4ft T5 Length wise and have it angled in front of the MH hanging slightly lower again, kinda like a mini dome)or do you really plan to take them of the tank while the halides run? If not where on the tank would you put them, fron or back and why? (front and back to give some nicer color spectrum throughout the tank and also to hit spots that are a little dimmer) Running the MH side by side, how do you plan to hang them together, (I got a DIY light stand in the process for hanging my MH and T5s)just curious, may have some advice but I'm not sure as to your plan. (No worries, I got things under control)

[scubaspew]

O.K. Just curious.

[RaysReef]

Sorry, I didn't mean anything by the bold prints, lol hopefully u didn't take it personally.

[scubaspew]

Sorry, I didn't mean anything by the bold prints, lol hopefully u didn't take it personally.

No, I guess I missed that part of the thread, I was just trying to picture his lighting set up, not trying to sound completely oblivious but I guess I was, it didn't make sense to me, thanks for clarifying. Sounds like the tank will be well lit!

[scubaspew]

I secretly wish I could have found a way to incorporate those t5's into my set up, but it was too complicated given everything I was already trying to do and working with. I'd still love to at least get some moonlights, something for inbetween.

[RaysReef]

You could always run 2- 2ft hoods that have MH and T5s built in and have it hang over your tank (width wise) instead of a MH right in the center. There are other options to incorp the T5s.

[PaulTushaus]

No, I guess I missed that part of the thread, I was just trying to picture his lighting set up, not trying to sound completely oblivious but I guess I was, it didn't make sense to me, thanks for clarifying. Sounds like the tank will be well lit!

my plan is to frame out a canopy with 1"x1"s and have the the halides hanging from a center beam pointing directly down then have the t5s hanging in front of them on another beam angled slightly back pointing the light toward the bottom back of the tank, I want to leave the back and top of the canopy open with some fans and cover the other sides in finished wood sheeting then trim it out... still haven't figured out how I am going to get into the tank yet maybe hang the canopy or put doors on the front...

[RaysReef]

I had an idea before about doing a open top canopy with MH and T5s so I can get in there and do any maintenance that I need to do (Lights will be hung with brackets or a hanging kit). Plus it lights up the room nicely

[PaulTushaus]

thanks for the offer on the reflector I will take you up on it if i change my plan but for now I am trying to stick with DE 150w HQIs I have heard they are the most bang for your watt

[scubaspew]

my plan is to frame out a canopy with 1"x1"s and have the the halides hanging from a center beam pointing directly down then have the t5s hanging in front of them on another beam angled slightly back pointing the light toward the bottom back of the tank, I want to leave the back and top of the canopy open with some fans and cover the other sides in finished wood sheeting then trim it out... still haven't figured out how I am going to get into the tank yet maybe hang the canopy or put doors on the front...

Keep us updated, I 'd love to see a picture of how you do this. Very curious on your light plan. Good progress!

[PaulTushaus]

haha i'm sure it will be pretty ghetto on the inside (sunpod, whatever other 150w i pick up, and t5 fixture wired to 1x1s) but the outside should hopefully look nice!

[scubaspew]

More curious as to how the iside looks, let me know when you finish it!

[this1fish]

You mentioned running 2- 150w MH and T5. thats quite a bit for a 40B I believe it measures 36Lx18Wx16H I have a 48Lx24W and my 250w MH is covering alot of ground w/T5s combo. You may want to try a 150w in the center of the 40B and see how that covers your setup first before setting up 2 of them. I also painted my tank black (sides/back/bottom) to retain as much light in the tank as I can.

Also I keep my room @ 70 and with MH my tank stays @ 77 even after 8 hrs. of it on. It is 16 in. above my frag tank and another 12 in. (Bottom of the tank)

i had the sunpod over my 40B when it was up, it covers the tank pretty well. If paultushaus isnt planning to keep anything very light demanding then it will be perfect. as a matter of fact i was able to keep sps and clams with that setup before i broke the tank down but it did seem like it wasnt enough.

[Dhummel]

i have a double 175 watt MH retro setup for sale if you want to put them above you 40.

[PaulTushaus]

cool maybe I'll just start with the 150w sunpod and leave room to add another 150w at a later date that will save some ching for the meantime that I can spend on other stuff like the SWE GFO starter kit :biggthumpup:

[PaulTushaus]

just got my 1" bulkhead and SWE's GFO starter kit! saweeeeeeeet!

[PaulTushaus]

also picked up mag 9.5 return pump from kvmn just now, thanks again buddy this build would seriously be way behind where it is now without all your help!!!! <---- that guy ROCKS!
whew lots of running around today... chaska, to norwood, to chaska, to bloomington, to chaska, to shakopee, to chaska, now another trip to shakopee and back to chaska at 11 to pick up my g/f :micro: .... man am I beat... I'll be going to HD tomorrow after work for the rest of the plumbing so that means more build PICS,plan to build sump/finish plumbing next week sometime, drill/scape my rock, and get this baby WET!!! ok I am going to go lay down and watch the last 3 weeks of the tudors see y'all later!

[cwk132]

Wow your thread grew fast! I missed it for three days and its already three pages! I would start with the t5s and only one halide and I would think you would be able to grow almost all sps, plus less heat would be put into the tank which is great for keeping things cool in summer. Our setup is really messy and ghetto but its the tank that matters :) And we'll have to find a time to meet up and once your tank is cycled we'll get you some nice sps frags.

[PaulTushaus]

awesome thanks man SPS frags will be greatly appreciated, BTW everyone the tudors is off the hook this season!!! what else... oh yeah I have the flu... hope it's not swine :nuts: lol should I be reporting this to anyone...?

[scubaspew]

awesome thanks man SPS frags will be greatly appreciated, BTW everyone the tudors is off the hook this season!!! what else... oh yeah I have the flu... hope it's not swine :nuts: lol should I be reporting this to anyone...?

Feel better man! You are really only doing a 1" bulkhead with a 9.5 mag? I know I went the ultra safe route, but man that sounds like playing with fire! JMO, anyway nice thread moving quickly! Awesome progress! Can't wait to see the lights!

[PaulTushaus]

at SWE they told me a 1" bulkhead can handle ~1250 gph and mag 9.5 is 950 gph and that is at 0' at 3.5' it will only be at a little more than 800 gph plus I am going to put a ball valve on my return... other wise I could just swap the mag 9 for the mag 3 on my skimmer...

[scubaspew]

at SWE they told me a 1" bulkhead can handle ~1250 gph and mag 9.5 is 950 gph and that is at 0' at 3.5' it will only be at a little more than 800 gph plus I am going to put a ball valve on my return... other wise I could just swap the mag 9 for the mag 3 on my skimmer...

First are you sure about that because I have a 2 & 1/2 inch bulkhead with a 1 & 1/2 drain, and I was told that could only handle 1200 per hour, maybe I was misinformed but either way you are cutting it kind of close, what if the drain gets partially plugged by something or the overflow, better safe than water everywhere, JMO! Good work so far!

[PaulTushaus]

man I just read that 1" bulkheads can only handle 300-600gph this could be a problem... damn...

[scubaspew]

man I just read that 1" bulkheads can only handle 300-600gph this could be a problem... damn...

That's what I thought! Go the safe route, assuming you've already drilled for this, go with a mag 3 at most. A mag 3 I believe is still rated at 600 gph, I could trade you because my drain should handle your pump, however I prefer to be safe rather than sorry, but if you want to you can bring yours over and let me hook it up and if it works I'll give you my mag 3, however you may want to even go with a mag 2, I told you the bigger the drain the better!

[NandKBlock]

I have my magdrive 9.5 going through a 1" bulkhead with no problem.

[scubaspew]

I have my magdrive 9.5 going through a 1" bulkhead with no problem.

Really??? What are your specs?

[kvmn]

mag9 is a little too strong for 40b but you can alway dial it down,,or put a T to pump water to refugium ,,,also don't for get to put a regular ball valve after the T so you can controll water going to refugium,,,goodluck

[NandKBlock]

Really??? What are your specs?
You can read all about our tank here: http://www.tcmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8955

[PaulTushaus]

here is a tentative plan for my sump... I stole most of the design from NandKBlock's (Nate I think it is, right? :biggrin: thanks dude!) sump design I basically took his sump and just simplified it a bit for my needs, since I don't need to tee off to a floor drain and I didn't want to slow down my drain by teeing it into the fuge... if anyone else has any other ideas or can give me some other designs or advice, please feel free to do so.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/fuge1.jpg

[Fish'InMN]

Try to have your return be a straight shot to the tank, with any T's going off to the side, not a shown above.

[kvmn]

http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

[mattb]

Skip the fuge... It looks too small to provide much benefit.

[wes]

I like fuges, even if they're not so large as to be the main source of export. I have one that's ~8g of actual growth area on my 40 and I rip quite a bit of chaeto out of there every other week, so I know it's helping. I run my fuge light 24/7, maybe that helps. I also see a massive pod population in there. Very little harm it could be doing and it's not much work to have one. You could also use that space for a remote deep sand bed, but IMO I'd choose a fuge just because it's so simple.

[PaulTushaus]

so your saying not to have a DSB or cheato in the sump and just use the extra room for more water volume and/or live rock rubble, or do you have any other suggestions? thanks Matt feed back is greatly appreciated.

[PaulTushaus]

what I was thinking was having a remote DSB with live rock rubble and cheato growing on top, I have ~3 gallon fuge on my 24 aquapod haven't seen a ton of benefit as far as nutrient export (I rely more on agressive skimming, GFO, and WC for that) but it does have TONS of pods in there and sponges ect. which I am sure must provide some benefit. Does anybody have opinions on cryptic zones..?

[this1fish]

I like fuges, even if they're not so large as to be the main source of export. I have one that's ~8g of actual growth area on my 40 and I rip quite a bit of chaeto out of there every other week, so I know it's helping. I run my fuge light 24/7, maybe that helps. I also see a massive pod population in there. Very little harm it could be doing and it's not much work to have one. You could also use that space for a remote deep sand bed, but IMO I'd choose a fuge just because it's so simple.

i remember i read some articles about not leaving the light on 24/7 because it can cause photodamage. The algae can only do it so much and then shuts down when there's too much light. Like all living things, they need to be able to shut down and relax before starting up again. i could be totally wrong, im trying to find the articles.

[scubaspew]

i remember i read some articles about not leaving the light on 24/7 because it can cause photodamage. The algae can only do it so much and then shuts down when there's too much light. Like all living things, they need to be able to shut down and relax before starting up again. i could be totally wrong, im trying to find the articles.

No I agree, I think I should run my light more, because I'm pretty much an hour before the lights go out and an hour after they are on, but I do know the fuge needs to sleep too, even if only a couple hours.

[this1fish]

No I agree, I think I should run my light more, because I'm pretty much an hour before the lights go out and an hour after they are on, but I do know the fuge needs to sleep too, even if only a couple hours.

you can try reverse photo-period which i plan to do once i get my refugium rolling. Basically you run the lights all night then have it off during the day. This helps keep PH stable as the plants will photosynthesis and keep PH stable, normally at night when the plants shut down, the ph drops a bit that's why you may notice that the PH is lower at night and early in the morning then raising as the day progress.

[scubaspew]

you can try reverse photo-period which i plan to do once i get my refugium rolling. Basically you run the lights all night then have it off during the day. This helps keep PH stable as the plants will photosynthesis and keep PH stable, normally at night when the plants shut down, the ph drops a bit that's why you may notice that the PH is lower at night and early in the morning then raising as the day progress.

That's what I was saying, that's what I do, is turn them on an hour before the main display goes off, and I turn them off an hour after the main display is lit, sorry if that wasn't clear.

[wes]

I've run mine along with my lights, opposite, and 24/7. I noticed the fastest growth with 24/7 so that's what I use. Never once had an issue. Right now My issue is that I get coralline growing on top of the chaeto. Not all living things need to 'sleep'

[PaulTushaus]

here is the drain plumbing
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/drain1.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/drain2.jpg
It seems like a long horizontal run as it goes out of my tank stupid HD did not have the fittings I needed so I had to use 2 adapters I don't know if this will be problematic or not I figure even if I can find the right fittings somewhere best case scenario I will only be able to shave ~2 inches off of it... right now it is 8.5 inches from the center of the drain in the tank to the center of the down pipe behind the tank...

[PaulTushaus]

oh BTW is the rubber "O" ring supposed to go on the inside of the tank or the outside...?

[Dhummel]

you want the rubber gasket to go on the inside, against the glass.
is this setup a fuge or your tank. if it's a fuge you'll be fine.
home depot does not cary everything thats whiy i dont shop there for pvc...MENARDS will.

[PaulTushaus]

that is my DT thanks for the heads up I guess I'm off to Menards, also I bout a thread by thread bulkhead, will this restrict my flow that much that I should just go and get a slip by slip bulkhead...?

[Dhummel]

that is my DT thanks for the heads up I guess I'm off to Menards, also I bout a thread by thread bulkhead, will this restrict my flow that much that I should just go and get a slip by slip bulkhead...?

i would go with the thredded bulk head, easy to replace if problems, will not restrict flow. for that being your display i would put a overflow box, you will get better skimming then just a elbow.

[Screwtape]

Small detail, but for bulkheads I'm using slip by thread bulkheads. The slip is on the flanged end inside the tank which makes it easy to disconnect/connect any elbows/strainers etc on the inside (look for a street 90 elbow, it will slip right into the bulkhead, BRS carries them if you can't find any others) and threaded on the outside like was said so it's easy to remove/modify/maintain if needed. I'm also going to be putting a threaded compression union right into the bulkhead, since it has a male thread on it, to easily pull the plumbing off if needed, I think it works pretty nice.

[PaulTushaus]

I have an overflow box already made I just want to get the plumbing completely done to satisfaction before I put it on..

[kvmn]

hey make sure it not touching the over flow box wall when you take to elbo off<<<

[PaulTushaus]

yeah I think I am going to go get a slip x thread or a SLIP X SLIP bulk head so that I can put a street 90 in the overflow box this will make it possible to take that piece out if anything gets clogged in there.....

[mattb]

what I was thinking was having a remote DSB with live rock rubble and cheato growing on top, I have ~3 gallon fuge on my 24 aquapod haven't seen a ton of benefit as far as nutrient export (I rely more on agressive skimming, GFO, and WC for that) but it does have TONS of pods in there and sponges ect. which I am sure must provide some benefit. Does anybody have opinions on cryptic zones..?

There will be *some* benefit to a fuge, I just believe they are overstated simply because they are too small. Micro algae is much more productive than macroalgae, over 5x (depending on species). A refugium is a variant of Adey's Algae Turf Scrubbers, and if you look at the size of Adey's ATS, they are nearly as big as the displays, and that's using Micro. You *will* get some benefit, but nothing that is drastic.

Given the size of your system, assuming a good skimmer, large water changes may be the best alternative to nutrient export. If you are going to do a DSB, just do an rDSB and that will help (it takes a good couple of months to get established. If you are going to do that, just a DSB, don't put any live rock or light it (just easier that way). No CUC....

Cryptic zones, I'm going to get flames on this.... :) Tyree's concept of Cryptic zones is very different than what most people are calling a "cryptic zone". A bunch of life rock in the sump is NOT a cryptic zone. Part of it is semantics, part is biology. What Tyree has for a cryptic zone is a perforated (small openings) partition in the main tank that is completely dark. The perforations are small and do not allow huge current or large POM (particulate organic material) to enter the cryptic zone. This in contrast with a lot of flow through a sump with a partition of live rock is different, different organisms will flourish than in Tyree's cryptic zone. I should also note that (no surprise) the cryptic zone in Tyree's systems are much bigger than the typical live rock filled sump partition. Again alot of semantical differences and some biological....

If you are planning on an open live rock aquascape, you may want to have some live rock in the sump.... But then again, before my 120 crashed, I started out with about 25 lbs of live rock, very open aquascape. No nutrient problems. (I did end up adding more toward the end so I had more perches for my corals....)

[mattb]

It seems like a long horizontal run as it goes out of my tank stupid HD did not have the fittings I needed so I had to use 2 adapters I don't know if this will be problematic or not I figure even if I can find the right fittings somewhere best case scenario I will only be able to shave ~2 inches off of it... right now it is 8.5 inches from the center of the drain in the tank to the center of the down pipe behind the tank...

I've always had that problem with HD and Menards. I prefer ACE hardware, they always seem to have everything.... Unless you already have the Mag 9.5, I'd go with a smaller return. If so, you could always throttle back. I used a Mag 9 on my 120, was more than enough.

It's all coming together! Fun fun

[PaulTushaus]

thanks for the input Matt, I think I will try to keep it simple, just do a remote DSB and a skimmer chamber I was wondering what people think of this (http://cgi.ebay.com/36-Metal-Halide-250-T5-HO-Aquarium-Light-Moon-Lights_W0QQitemZ180317751792QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_ DefaultDomain_0?hash=item29fbc689f0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50) too good to be true..? originally I was going to just build a canopy use my existing 150w DE MH get another 150w DE MH ($150) get 2x39w T5 for actinic ($100), then buy all the 1x1's, wood veneer, trim, stain, fans, ect. then I found that on ebay and it is $260 with free shipping... plus 2 extra T5 HO and no building hassle... I would like to hear any opinions you have on it, I plan on buying it next week... I figure even if it is poorly constructed and I end up having heat issues ect in a few months, I could always just gut it and go back to building the canopy plan with the lights I gutted from it.....just seems too good to be true to me but maybe I will just have be the guinea pig on this one and let you all know if it is any good....

[PaulTushaus]

I just read it has a 2 year warranty....

[PaulTushaus]

oh yeah I think I will have to go with a 20L sump the stand I have is horrible for getting stuff inside of it I only have a 16"x14.5", or a 12"x21" hole to fit the sump through....:mad_3:

[PaulTushaus]

Alright finally got this project rolling again!! hopefully just confirmed purchase of another 150w hqi from strangerdejavu (thanks for the deal!) and getting a 20L for a sump from devine01, also picking up my first tunze pump from KVMN, I am planning on going to pick some of this stuff up tomorrow hopefully, so more pics can be expected, also I am going to get the return plumbing, paint, fiberglass rods, plumbers putty, drill bits, cheap drill, and hopefully some 1x1s, eyelets and chain for the canopy, also next on my list is order 2x39w T5HO for actinic if anyone has some laying around LMK otherwise I plan to order some from hello light 2x39w retrofit w/ bulbs and shipping is $135.... see you all tomorrow with some pics!!

[PaulTushaus]

got the black background painted on turned out totally awesome! http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/0510091656.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

here we go more pics I built my canopy, framed it out with 2x2 and then covered it in 1/2 MDF I had my buddy who is a finish carpenter do the corners and it turned out pretty seamless we then brad nailed it on I filled the nail holes with light weight spackle, spray painted with the cheap $.99 black oil paint then painted it 3 coats with a flat black interior/exterior latex rustoleum here it is....http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/canopy.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

I did the first rock structure on Thursday night, this is the structure I'm making out of dry rock, with my buddy Ron (rjb412) we drilled the rocks with a cobalt penetrated drill bit I highly recommend using one for this it literally went through the rock like butter I then cut the rods to fit epoxied them in with Ace hardware brand plumbers epoxy putty, I love how the arch structure turned out.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/rockstructure.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

today I sanded and painted the stand with the same process I used to paint the canopy filling the nail holes with light weight spackle here is a before and after photo of the progress...http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/fishroom.jpg

[RaysReef]

Very nice Paul ;)

[PaulTushaus]

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/FTS.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

here is a FTS with the canopy on it (the 2x2s holding the canopy up are not how it is going to be permanently, I am either going to hang it or maybe put a door on it not sure yet....)http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/FTSwithcanopy.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

now all I have to do is glue the plumbing use some weld-on to fix my overflow box (dropped it the other day sanding it to get it ready to paint with krylon fusion :micro: ) put 2 more baffles in the sump... the lady at ace hardware cut the glass at 11 1/4 in stead of 11 3/4 :mad_3: bolt my lights into the canopy and get this baby wet!

[Aberrix]

lookin' good!

[PaulTushaus]

lookin' good!

oh I know I know....:cool: everything really has turned out nicer than I expected... I was outside painting the stand today and I was like scrambling to put more coats on cause it looked like it was gonna rain! lol

[scubaspew]

oh I know I know....:cool: everything really has turned out nicer than I expected... I was outside painting the stand today and I was like scrambling to put more coats on cause it looked like it was gonna rain! lol
Super nice dude, looks really, really good, color me impressed! I was going to suggest you paint the stand, I was always going to do that "someday". Looks really awesome can't wait to see the finale.

[PaulTushaus]

shameless ego stroking bump...:biggrin:

[PaulTushaus]

yeah the pics really don't do the paint job justice it turned out REALLY nice you'll have to come out and see it in person once it is up and running, I plan on getting my 2 T5HO, and the RO/DI at the end of the week so I should have water in it next weekend!

[Fish'InMN]

You'll want a door on the front of the canopy, no question about that one. Looks good!

[PaulTushaus]

yeah well I was planning to hang it but after some consideration I am just going to jigsaw out the front and mount a door on it and screw in some 2x2's on the inside of the sides so that it will just sit on the tank I really don't want to mess with hanging it plus it is going to weigh near 40 lbs when I am done so I figure better safe than sorry....man I can't wait to get this thing wet....!

[PaulTushaus]

Alright finally got all the baffles in the sump, screwed some 2x2's in the canopy so it will sit comfortably on the tank.

Then used weld-on to glue my overflow box back together

(I accidentally sprayed it with the wrong paint, so I had to sand off all of that paint and dropped it in the process, thanks again KVMN - you are a seriously rockin dude I don't know how I could have done this build without you).

I then sprayed it with glossy black krylon fusion to match the glossy glass background on the tank and then siliconed it in, also glued all the plumbing together, and ordered my 75GPD RO/DI plus system (pressure guage, dual tds, back flush kit, ect.) and 2x 39w T5HO TEK retro kit from BRS group buy, so all I have to do now is take the pendant out, prep off the outside of the canopy, and spray the inside of the canopy with killz blocking primer to avoid moisture damage, mount on the 2- bulb retro kit, wash my new live sand, and it's time to get this baby wet!!!! here are some pics so far....

[PaulTushaus]

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/fts2.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/overflowintank.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/sump1.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/sumpin2.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/sumpin1.jpg

[kvmn]

how are you gonna take out the pump when you need to clean it or its stop working/.? you need a union

[devine01]

I really like the sump. ;) Looks great cant wait for the water!!!

[kvmn]

also look like you need an auto top off ifyou have small return area like that,
unless you don't ever leave the house no more than 12 hr,,

[PaulTushaus]

yep I got an ATO, and a union :biggthumpup:

[kvmn]

are you using check valve or drilling the hole on top of return output?
swe carry union check valve,,i think

[PaulTushaus]

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/unionreturn.jpg man I'm fast!

[PaulTushaus]

there is also a union on the drain

[PaulTushaus]

next post

[PaulTushaus]

I am going to drill a hole in the scwd i just want to see where my water level sits before I do it, if I still don't have enough room in the sump I will buy a check valve and attach it under the scwd somewhere, as of right now I can easily take out all of the plumbing for maintenance/modifications if I have to and it is all glued already, here is a picture of the scwd
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/scwd.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

here we go more pics! today I received my order from BRS, so I ran to HD got a quart of Killz and primed the inside of the canopy, then I put together my T5HO retro kit, and hooked up my 5 stage ro/di plus system... this baby is nice!! ok heres the pics...

[PaulTushaus]

here is the canopy after priminghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/canopykillz.jpg
heres a pic of the T5HO reto fit...http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/actinic1.jpg
and heres a pic of the canopy with the T5's mounted in it
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/T5incanopy.jpg
lastly a pic of the actinics on the new tank!
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/actinictank.jpg

[RaysReef]

sorry too lazy to go back, but r u running only 2 T5?

[scubaspew]

sorry too lazy to go back, but r u running only 2 T5?
No he is also running a halide, a 250 watt I believe.

[RaysReef]

that's alot of light for a 40G, be careful when your tank cycles algae/cyano could be an issue.

[scubaspew]

that's alot of light for a 40G, be careful when your tank cycles algae/cyano could be an issue.

JMO, but Paul I think I would run the halide for 4-5 hours a day max, and I'd make sure it is plenty high off the tank, at least 14" and then run the atinics the extra 4-5 hours, again JMO, Ray feel free to give yours, but I think he'd be alright with a shorter photo period and as long as the light is high enough. I know the photo period should be a minimum of 4 hours. I agree that a 150 watt would be more ideal. And Maybe he's changed his mind, I can't remember, I might be wrong.

[PaulTushaus]

yeah I am running 2x150w MH w/ phoenix 14k and 2x39w T5HO w/ geisman powerchrome pure actinic, since I am running phoenix bulbs I will only be running either the T5's or the MH at one time I have noticed that running a 150w HQI on my aquapod has fueled MAJOR cyano outbreak but I will be running GFO from the start with this tank so we will see, the saltwater goes in tomorrow!

[scubaspew]

Exciting, can't wait! Seeing what you've done with this has already made me wish I had done it with that tank! Awesome work!

[devine01]

I have a 150w over a 40 breeder and i still think its to much..... just keep it to a max of no more than 6 hours and try to get a 14K or 20K instead of a 10K. I felt like that helped alot too.

[PaulTushaus]

pimped my new fish/computer room today! here's some pics!
here's the new RO/DI storage container.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/rostorage.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

heres the new computer desk from wal-mart $45.00
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/desk.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

and here's the rug I used to have in my bedroom at my dad's house while I was in high school ahhhh memories....had him bring it over yesterday
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/rug.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

and as you walk in and turn to your left this is what you see!
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/tankcloset.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

heres the new tank running with salt water in it finally still pretty cloudy but I got sponges in the sump hopefully it will be gone in a day or two
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/clowdytank.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

BTW the hot pink ashtray and the stupid glow in the dark star on the wall are totally my girlfriend's I SWEAR lol

[this1fish]

I have a 150w over a 40 breeder and i still think its to much..... just keep it to a max of no more than 6 hours and try to get a 14K or 20K instead of a 10K. I felt like that helped alot too.

1 150 halide over the 40b is only enough to get you by. no where near too much imo. it will be fine in the middle but you will have low light at the edges. i think having one is perfect if you want to keep low-mid lighting corals. When i had 1 over my 40b, i did not seem like enough at all and my corals(sps) started to brown out. my clam will always over extend to get enough light and this was a 12hr photoperiod. Having 2 over the 40b will insure even distribution over the tank at all times so he should be able to place corals where ever.

[PaulTushaus]

1 150 halide over the 40b is only enough to get you by. no where near too much imo. it will be fine in the middle but you will have low light at the edges. i think having one is perfect if you want to keep low-mid lighting corals. When i had 1 over my 40b, i did not seem like enough at all and my corals(sps) started to brown out. my clam will always over extend to get enough light and this was a 12hr photoperiod. Having 2 over the 40b will insure even distribution over the tank at all times so he should be able to place corals where ever.

this is my opinion also since I am planning on keeping sps corals all over my tank in the upper region on the rocks and keeping my lps and zoas on the sand I think 2x150 will be fine besides they are already both mounted in the canopy so there's no way I am selling them to get a 250w mounted in the middle or any other combination of T5s ect. I have spent enough f****** money on this tank already lol tank is still cloudy this morning :mad_3: but I think I have taken care of the micro bubble problem I was having. BTW any suggestions of what fish I could put in there for the cycle to start I would like to have some thing in there to look at while it is cycleing... I have heard clown fish but since I plan on having a mated pair I can't see throwing $100 in there while it is still cycling, I know there was some worries about evaporation, and my small return chamber, but with the glass lid on, I had my lights on for like 8 hours yesterday and it really hasn't budged I know it will be worse when we have some hot days but I plan on putting an air conditioner in the window and since it is such a small room I should be able to keep it pretty cool with the door shut... any ways hope you all enjoyed the build thread!! I will post more pics in about a month when the cycle has ended and my livestock goes in.... :beerchug:

[this1fish]

just let the tank be and don't add any fish. trust me just ignore it and it will cycle better than if you have fish in there.

[scubaspew]

Green or blue chromis are cheap and bulletproof in my opinion and not a bad addition to any tank, I have a school of them and at least if they die you will definitely know something is very wrong. I've never been able to kill one yet no matter what I've done. If you want fish in there this is my suggestion. You can get one for about $7-$8.

[PaulTushaus]

ok folks here's some new pics of the tank with livestock in it FINALLY everything is still kinda POed after the move on monday, but yeah here ya go,
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/grapemontipegged.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/ricgarden.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/frogspawn.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/favites.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/candycane.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/alieneyechalice.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/acanechinata.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/haldone.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/haldtdone.jpg


and last of all this is the other side of the tank which is just a pile of rocks at the moment, but will soon be a rodded rock structure drilled for pegging.

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/undoneside.jpg

[this1fish]

open water aquascapes are the best...

[PaulTushaus]

is that what I have...?

[this1fish]

yes!!!

[kvmn]

,i though you gonna use rod on the rock?
full tank shot////?

[jwedll]

Lookin real good, I still have to come over and see that some day.

[PaulTushaus]

here are some new pics of the 40 breeder enjoy!

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0221.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0228.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0230.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0231.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0236.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0237.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0242.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0245.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0246.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0248.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0250.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0253.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0256.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0257.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0259.jpg

[PaulTushaus]

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0260.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0263.jpghttp://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss167/NanoPaul77/IMG_0459.jpg