Turf
07-01-2007, 11:06 PM
OK, I came up with this way back when maxi mods just started to come into existence and pissed a bunch of people off with their elaborate versions using Maxi's that became SO expensive, time consuming and large... but the ones you buy do work I hear and are quick to build but it's best to have an old model of your maxi.
Things still seem to be going well so I thought I'd post it for you guys. (made 3 and gave them away a year ago and two are still working)
1st I had an old Hagen AquaClear 30 aka 301 to mod. 174 GPH now pumps like a mag 2 which is about 250 GPH... I know because I put them right next to each other and it looked/felt the same (very scientific)
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498730_998.jpg
Then I took out the Impeller
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498731_1208.jpg
Then I took my Traxxas Villain EX Right handed prop and shaved it down to fit (1 1/4") a 1-CP10 Conduit Fitting(no threads just smooth inside, not quite 1 3/4" diameter from outside edge)
** Note I used this prop because it was the only non-metal prop I could find that was right handed and not tiny.
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498733_1305.jpg
Then I popped the end off the swivel unit where the water intakes and drilled a bunch of holes to let water in from all sides if that makes since. Yet another time/money saver... you don't have to fab a new endcap to attach to the pump!
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498735_1702.jpg
Then I slid the 1-CP10 Conduit Fitting(again, not quite 1 3/4" diameter from outside edge) into the end where the intake cap use to be... sanded outside edge down just a bit and it fit like a glove.
***Note the inside is close to seamless as the inside diameters on both are
~1 7/16" thus no excess drag. AND THE "1" TYPED ON THE PIC IS A TYPO
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498739_2233.jpg
Next I put Egg Crate in the end to keep the fish/snails out. Fun fact, if you cut the egg crate exactly where the joint is leave a cross section like I did you don't have to measure since it is an EXACT fit! The egg crate also acts like a fin so you don't end up with a tornado current but a straight one. I also used 3 cross sections of egg crate as that is also a perfect fit from the inner stopping edge and the top of the conduit.
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498792_748.jpg
And then the final product.
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498793_1210.jpg
So now what you have is a fun little mod that cost about $8 w/shipping, 15-20min and you don't need to make a fancy stop arm because it ALWAYS TURNS THE SAME WAY!!! (with this size of pump anyway) Nore do you need a second brace for the prop shaft because they are not made to need one as in Maxi's
Things still seem to be going well so I thought I'd post it for you guys. (made 3 and gave them away a year ago and two are still working)
1st I had an old Hagen AquaClear 30 aka 301 to mod. 174 GPH now pumps like a mag 2 which is about 250 GPH... I know because I put them right next to each other and it looked/felt the same (very scientific)
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498730_998.jpg
Then I took out the Impeller
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498731_1208.jpg
Then I took my Traxxas Villain EX Right handed prop and shaved it down to fit (1 1/4") a 1-CP10 Conduit Fitting(no threads just smooth inside, not quite 1 3/4" diameter from outside edge)
** Note I used this prop because it was the only non-metal prop I could find that was right handed and not tiny.
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498733_1305.jpg
Then I popped the end off the swivel unit where the water intakes and drilled a bunch of holes to let water in from all sides if that makes since. Yet another time/money saver... you don't have to fab a new endcap to attach to the pump!
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498735_1702.jpg
Then I slid the 1-CP10 Conduit Fitting(again, not quite 1 3/4" diameter from outside edge) into the end where the intake cap use to be... sanded outside edge down just a bit and it fit like a glove.
***Note the inside is close to seamless as the inside diameters on both are
~1 7/16" thus no excess drag. AND THE "1" TYPED ON THE PIC IS A TYPO
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498739_2233.jpg
Next I put Egg Crate in the end to keep the fish/snails out. Fun fact, if you cut the egg crate exactly where the joint is leave a cross section like I did you don't have to measure since it is an EXACT fit! The egg crate also acts like a fin so you don't end up with a tornado current but a straight one. I also used 3 cross sections of egg crate as that is also a perfect fit from the inner stopping edge and the top of the conduit.
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498792_748.jpg
And then the final product.
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/34/46/13940732/n13940732_39498793_1210.jpg
So now what you have is a fun little mod that cost about $8 w/shipping, 15-20min and you don't need to make a fancy stop arm because it ALWAYS TURNS THE SAME WAY!!! (with this size of pump anyway) Nore do you need a second brace for the prop shaft because they are not made to need one as in Maxi's