Kalk Calculator

[Payne]

At the moment i dose 170 ml of cal and alk both morning and night for a total of 340ml of alk and cal a day. I had to split the doses up because of the ph spike and i am a firm believer of not raising anything more than 50 ppm a day.

I have tons of pickling lime around and wanted to start using it in my auto top off. Hoping to reduce my amount of 2 part i use in a week. (1 gallon of each)

I have a fully established mixed reefhttp://www.tcmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18382

i dont want to hurt nothing and maybe the change shouldnt happen.

Right now all levels are balanced.

MAg 1500ppm
cal 450
alk 10.5-11
ph 8.2

With all that said. I have to remove precipitation daily from my display tank and i beleive it is due to the large amount of 2 part added daily. specifically the alk. which i believe sticks to the glass.

[Payne]

bumppy

[hypertech]

You shouldn't be having precipitation on the glass. Perhaps you are adding the alk too fast?

Somewhere there is a two part to kalk conversion tool that might help you figure out how much the kalk would offset the two part.

[dustybaker]

I think BRS has one don't they?

[David Grigor]

1 Gallon of fully saturated Kalk = 82mil of DIY 2 part so you will need to evaporate about 4 gallons a day to meet your needs using just Kalkwasser.

You can increase by 30% more by using 3 teaspoons + 45mil of distilled white vinegar if you need to boost some more.

In the winter time, I run just Kalkwasser becuase evaporation is much higher. My evaporation is less during summertime because of the humidity so I do run vinegar part of the year. I've never noticed any ill effects from spiking to compensate.

Just be sure your topoff slowly. If using level based, best to incorporate time based in addition to prevent too much or too fast. pH controller also highly recommended to be sure if doesn't get 8.6+

[Chris Goetz]

What is your question?
If you're looking for a calculator you can use the BRS one here: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/reef-calculator

but since you're dosing two part, I'm guessing you already use a calculators site of some sort.

1g of two part into a 75g sounds like a lot to me. I would definitely look into topping off with kalk and then fill in with two part if you need it afterward. My guess is you won't even need it, unless you've got some larger colonies, or clams...

[Payne]

i was looking into using kalk in top off yes and and adding two part as a fill in. i just want the transition to be seamless. because if i start doing kalk i will need to re adjust my dosing of two part. i evaporate about 3 gallons every 2 days with a fan blowing across the top.

and yes 1 gallon a week is alot. i do have some good colonies and 1 clam that is about 6 inches.

[Chris Goetz]

1 Gallon of fully saturated Kalk = 82mil of DIY 2 part so you will need to evaporate about 4 gallons a day to meet your needs using just Kalkwasser.

David,
Does it seem right that he'd be going throw 1g of two-part /week on a 75g?

Sounds like a lot to me. I evap about 2-3g/day on my setup which has about 26 sqft(120g, 40g, 2x15g and sump) of water and I topoff with kalk only. I do two part as needed for now, since I took the dosing pumps offline a few months ago.

Chris

[Chris Goetz]

i was looking into using kalk in top off yes and and adding two part as a fill in. i just want the transition to be seamless. because if i start doing kalk i will need to re adjust my dosing of two part. i evaporate about 3 gallons every 2 days with a fan blowing across the top.

and yes 1 gallon a week is alot. i do have some good colonies and 1 clam that is about 6 inches.

It sounds like you're on the right track then. Sorry I don't where the two-part to kalk calculator is, but I have seen it mentioned before.

FWIW: I use to use Mrs. Wages, but it's much more convenient to use the BRS stuff now and if you buy it in enough quantity it's cheaper too. i.e. I just bought a 5g bucket for $32 from BRS which is about $1.42/lb. You can usually only find the Wages seasonally and it's typically more unless you find it on closeout.

[David Grigor]

Likely when you get into that high of dosing and not using dosing pumps it's not really utilizing it all. Very likely a portion of that is precipitating.

For a 75g, when you start getting above 100mil day, that's when it's time to start using dosing pumps. Trying to do manually can end up wasting and causing more headaches.


If/when you start switching to kalkwasser, just track the alkalinity trends. Since the alk test kit is more sensative to change and CA should stay inline.

[hypertech]

An intermediate step would be that brine shrimp hatcher that BRS re-purposed as an alk doser. You fill it up and then it drips over a period of hours to add it slowly.

[Payne]

alright so as i see it i can mix 2 tsp of kalk per 1 gallon of water. my maxi jet in my ATO will sit two inches off the bottom. Every two days i can just mix it in that pail and let it sit for an hour. after that i am toping off with kalk..correct??

How long can i leave the left overs in my ATO before i should clean it out?

Should i stop dosing 2 part all together and measure alk and mag etc. daily until i see a pattern and slowly start dosing 2 part again?

what else am i forgeting.

[David Grigor]

Mix it once. Wait until it is near empty and refill. DO NOT MIX IT IN BETWEEN ! That makes is less potent. Everytime you stir it your mixing in CO2.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/rhf/feature/index.php


You can leave the undissolved in the bottom. Clean it out a couple of times a year.

I don't recommend using Maxijets as a top off pump for kalkwasser. They are just too fast especially for a 75g even if you reduce it down to 1/4" tubing. The absolute max recommends is a .2 increase in pH per iteration but the slower the better. Aqualifter would be a better solution but a higher quality dosing pump would be preferred.

[Payne]

i have a parastalic pump that i have been trying to find the correct fitting for it. this has been about a 9 month journey so far. Should i use this pump instead of MJ for auto top off. I see this as being on a constant drip most of the day would that be over dosing the tank with kalk.

Would you rather suggest that i leave the auto top off alone and let it do its thing? and dose kalk seperatly and use my acjr. for kalk with a ph setting.

i am open to all suggestions right now. i remove precipe daily from my glass and its driving me nuts.

slap me in the face if need be, i might be making this more difficult than it is.

[David Grigor]

You really want to use one or the other not both. You need to replace 100% of your evaporation with kalkwasser. Use the AC set with a high pH say > 8.6 only for redundacy. Normal operations it should never get that high. Also best to be notified when that happens so that you can try to tweak things to reduce the likelyhood of it occuring again.

A recommended solution since you have an AC to use do this:

Dosing pump or an aqualifter ( runs about $13 ).

5g resevevoir ( or larger if you have room - typically use a container that will hold 5-7 days worth just for convienience ).

Run the dosing pump with a program similiar to this:

OSC 001/0XX ON/OFF Then KLK ON
If pH > 08.60 Then KLK OFF
If pH > 08.60 Then ALM ON
If FeedA 000 Then KLK OFF


OSC off ( XX ) will vary depending on the amount of flow your dosing pump/aqualifter has and how much evaporation. You may have to periodically add or reduce the off by a minute or two so that you tweak the amount.

Set Feed to be 60 minutes. Everytime you refill the resevoir just hit the Feed cycle ( a,b,c,d ) whichever you set it to so that it will delay topoff for 1 hour until kalk has settled.

If you decide to try to use both, remember you want to run kalkwasser for as much of your evaporation as possible so set your freshwater auto topoff to be on the low side where it would only cut on in emergency situations where your kalk is not working.

[Payne]

hmm things to think about. thanks DG. i will first get this pump figured out or i will buy the aqualifter. the best i have which is concealed is a five gallon pail for the top off. Next i need to address my kalk/top off water and how it will respond with my float switches. i will know more tonight.

[Payne]

so as i see it. tonight i will put only exactly 4 gallons of water in my top off pail. i will let it go for 24 hours and measure how much is left...Giving me evaporation in one day. next i will do the math for the OSC which i believe is minutes on and minutes off which will compensate for the evaporation per day. so what happens if my float swith selenoid that controls top off is now plugged into acjr. and is commanded by the OSC and > values. what if ph is high and top off stops then evaporation starts. ??salinty. kinda thinking and typing at the same time.

[REEFSTOCK]

I think it can help to run a bit lower numbers too, This is my default set up:

(Range/Target when tweaking)
MAg 1300-1500ppm (1450)
cal 380-450 (420)
alk 7-9 (8)
ph 7.9-8.4 (8.2)

I have been happy with these numbers. Having the Mag High, but CA and ALK lower seems to make it easier to adjust when needed.

JIME

[David Grigor]

so as i see it. tonight i will put only exactly 4 gallons of water in my top off pail. i will let it go for 24 hours and measure how much is left...Giving me evaporation in one day. next i will do the math for the OSC which i believe is minutes on and minutes off which will compensate for the evaporation per day. so what happens if my float swith selenoid that controls top off is now plugged into acjr. and is commanded by the OSC and > values. what if ph is high and top off stops then evaporation starts. ??salinty. kinda thinking and typing at the same time.

That's why you really want some sort of alarm set too. But depending on how you have your sump configured you should have some buffer time before the pumps run dry if high pH event or kalkwasser clog occurs. It's just there for redundancy. If your really worred about it, keep your autotopoff running as normal but set a bit lower so that under normal situations it never needs to replenish and only needed in emergency.

A few gallons +/- in a 75g is going to be negligable to salinity. Certainly not enough to cause harm to livestock.

Once you have it configured and up and running you will get a better idea of what pH would normally run but most likely not anywhere near 8.6 so should be always ON. That's just there for emergency to keep a precipitation/overdose from happening.

Be sure to keep your ph probe cleaned and calibrated if you haven't done so already. As probe gets dirty & age it drifts on the high side. If your starting to high the 8.6 clean it right away becuase it could be a false high when in fact it's several tenths lower. Once a month is usually sufficient or when you suspect it.

The kalkwasser resevoir doesn't need to be air tight. A loose fitting lid ( or no lid at all ) is sufficient.

[Payne]

ok the decision has been made. i will be buying a aqualifter. the parstalic pump will work for dosing. but to loud for all day application.

I eveporate 2.25 gallons of water a day. i will have to wait for the aqua lifter to figure out whats left in the set up but if anyone has similiar situation and is dosing kalk give me your input.

[David Grigor]

Aqualifter will vary greatly from one application to another becuase it doesn't handle head at all.

Just run it for about 10 minutes into measuring cup to get a rough idea how much per minute. As expected, aqualifter isn't as accurate as a dosing pump but for top off it's accurate enough. Overtime the diaphram does starts to wear out and flow gets lower. Replace the diaphram about 12-18 months and cost like $2.

If you dc8 is fairly new it should have relay switched in ports 4 and 8. Don't try to use an aqualifter in triac switches. There is not enough load for it to turn it off. If you have an older dc8 where it is all triac switches you will need to put it on a mechanical timer ( with all the pins taken out so that it is always on ). This creates just enough extra load to be able to control it.

My guess you will likely be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1 minute on and 25-30 minutes off.

[Payne]

ok the aqualifter is on order. My question is related to the float switch.

This is how i plan on hooking it up. The AC power cord that is cointrolled from a coil actuated from the float switch will now be plugged into the DC8 #8 slot. I will have the controller set up with a OSC bit as stated above.

question 1.. is the float now considered a protection so there is not to much kalk added. am i trying to top off at a perfect rate just below the float so it is always on.

question 2.. when i do set this up, how long before i know where the best level is. Can i go to work and come home with everything safe.

question 3.. if and when is it safe to also be dosing 2 part along with the kalk.

question 4.. The acjr i bought 2 years ago from fritz used. it was used on his display tank at the store. How is the easiest way to determine triac or not.

I will be testing daily each evening at aroung 7 p.m.

[David Grigor]

Question #4: If it's older than 2 years chances are there are no relay ports. Relays will make a click sound when turned on or off. Triac is near silent. Easiest way to determine will be to hook the aqualifter up. Using the manual control menu turn the aqualifter on then try to turn it off. If it's stays on then you need to get and mechanical timer ( take all the pins out so that it is always on ) and hook it between your aqualifter and your port. Retest.

Question #3: I'd give it a few days to track how well Kalk can keep your ALK up. If you start to see it dropping quickly you can start the 2 part anytime.

Question #2: Providing you have ensured that the aqualifter can be turned off by the AC3. You can start anytime. I'd likely start just after you get home for work so you have all the evening to track it. Once you have calculated the flow and figured out a ballpark of what the osc off interval should be, start out real conservative and pick out a longer interval. I likely would not run it any quicker than 1 minute on 30 minutes off until you are comfortable that the pH is not getting anywhere near 8.6. Manually topoff the difference with freshwater. Gradually reduce your off interval until you set near perfect.

Question #1: Yes float switch should be always on for and just for redundancy. You really want to spread the dosages out as evenly as possible. I had one on mine as well but when I figured out it was leaking electricity to the tank I took it off and never replaced it. The osc and pH redundancy, I felt was adequate enough.

[David Grigor]

Oh, and if you haven't done so already. Be sure to calibrate that pH probe first. As they age they tend to drift high. Don't want you to be getting any false alarms that the pH is higher than it really is.

[Payne]

thanks DG i have calibrating solution that is less than a year old. i think they are 7 and 10.

I have an alarm and everythings good to go. Off topic some but in one of your earlier posts you mentioned using the feed cycle. ABCD. I use the feed cycle to shut off my power heads. how do you create a seperate feed cycle

[David Grigor]

It depends on how old your AC is and when the last time you updated the firmware. The firmware to support multiple feed cycles was introduced about 2 years ago.

If you have the firmware update: W when you hit the feed, you will see a screen for about 5 seconds where you can select A,B,C,D. If you don't select anything it defaults to A.

In your program you designate if FeedA on then xxx off etc.

[Payne]

i dont think i have the update and i dont have a cable either. not a big deal to unplug it for an hour since i will only be filling it when im home.

[David Grigor]

I have the serial cable to do the update. If you meet up at a LFS or meeting, your welcome to borrow it. Your PC/Laptop has to have a serial cable connector on it though which are getting harder and harder to find PCs that have them now days.

Until you get the firmware upgraded, probably the easiest to use the manual control menu to set the device off. Only downside is you will have to remember to turn it back on.

If your topoff kicks in while it's still a slurry, it is a higher than normal pH spikes but usually comes down within a couple of hours and shouldn't be big issue.

[Payne]

ok while i wait for my pumps to come this is what i have entered into the acjr

If PH > 8.60 ALM ON
If PH > 8.60 KLK OFF
If PH < 8.59 ALM OFF
OSC 001/030 ON/OFF then KLK ON

i have the alarm plugged into kalk at the moment so i could get an understanding of how the OSC works..Here is what i found out.

it came on at 19:58:28 and ran until 20:00:00 then it shut off, after that it came on at 20:01:28 and ran until 20:03:00.

so is that correct that it doses for 1.5 minutes. how do i achieve 1 minute on and 25 minutes off.

SIDE NOTE: is there an always on code...I have a pump that i manually control at the moment which is undefined. i want it defined but always on.

[David Grigor]

Don't test with the alarm variable. Test with a light or something. Remember there is a setting for how long the alarm stays on in your setup so you can't really test the osc with it.

There are no sub 1 minute increments for any timers. It would only do sub minute if there is a temp/ph/orp type setting that is being executed ( ie: true ).

It's really hard to remember that far back but I seem to recall there was an osc bug in older firmwares. You can call or email Curt at Neptune if you want to confirm. Likely are going to need to upgrade your firmware ASAP.

Note with the OSC. Be sure there are no other ON commands associated with whatever device your using it with. Only combine with OFF commands or it will not work as you think.

example for always on:

If time > 00:00 then pump on

with no off commands for that device.

In the newer firmware, when you manually turn something that way even after power outage or turned off. The older firmware it would default back to auto so you need the above command.

[Payne]

i had the alarm plugged into slot 7 in the DC8 which is the OSC logic associated with it. no alarm variable with it.

DG if i cover the cost of USPS priority mail is there a chance we could mail the cable back and forth.

so its safe to say that i have the old firmware with the OSC bug if its running for 1.5 minutes and not shutting off.

[David Grigor]

so its safe to say that i have the old firmware with the OSC bug if its running for 1.5 minutes and not shutting off.

If you can turn it on with commands or manual control but doesn't shut off that is the triac/relay issue that has already been discussed.

I just can't remember that far back as to when or what version of firmware was involved or exactly what the bug was. I only remember there was an OSC related fix. Before I started using the OSC, I upgraded my firmware. You can phone or email Curt to find out what the minimum version of firmware that has the fix is if you want. Since you want the feed updates as well you probably should just upgrade it.

PM me the details for mailing if you want.

[David Grigor]

Here is my exact code I'm using with the current firmware and works exactly as expected:

If Time > 01:00 Then ALM OFF
If pH > 08.60 Then ALM ON

Note: I have other ALM ON commands too, just not related to kalk topoff so I didn't include them.

OSC 001/015 ON/OFF Then KLK ON
If pH > 08.55 Then KLK OFF
If FeedA 000 Then KLK OFF

Where I have Feed setup as 60 minutes.

I don't use any float switches, just time based w/ pH redundancy along with email alerts. I just tweak the interval periodically if it is off any significant bit. Usually don't make any tweaks if I'm only off by less than a gallon every 3 days ish just manually topoff the difference. Aqualifter not being a true dosing pump it isn't exact nor do I expect it to be for $13.

Under normal circumstances my pH hasn't reached above 8.45 so essientially always on. Only time it has gone above 8.45 was before I implemented the feed option to wait an hour after mixing. Of course, your pH high will vary as my tank is 4X the gallons and co2 levels will be much different based on your environment.

[Payne]

[QUOTE=David Grigor;248784]If you can turn it on with commands or manual control but doesn't shut off that is the triac/relay issue that has already been discussed.
QUOTE]

i manually can control the output. On and off. ITs the OSC that keeps it running, i will know more tonight when i have the equipment in front of me.

[David Grigor]

[QUOTE=David Grigor;248784]If you can turn it on with commands or manual control but doesn't shut off that is the triac/relay issue that has already been discussed.
QUOTE]

i manually can control the output. On and off. ITs the OSC that keeps it running, i will know more tonight when i have the equipment in front of me.

Be sure you don't have ANY other ON commands associated with that device. When another ON statement is true it will stay ON and will ignoring the OSC. OSC must be the only ON command. So for sure verify your program. You can combine many OFF commands but never another ON unless you want it to stay on the entire time it is true.

[Payne]

Im set up and everything is a go. The OSC function works and the alarm on port 8 works. I copied your logic and i seem good to go. Its on for 1 full minute and off a half hour. i shouldnt need the cable or the update. i have the float switch inline for redundancy to stop it if the level in the sump gets to high.

1. Please explain why this choice of logic. this is the one bit of info that seems to have solved everything.
If Time > 01:00 Then ALM OFF

[David Grigor]

That's just to initialize the alarm. Came straight from the instruction manual. Don't exactly know why. It just works.

Still should update to get the multiple feed cycles since your already using only the 1. Also, the bug where if you manually turn something on or off and have a power failure or turn it off it resets back to auto. This can cause trouble. I know it bit Fritz at least once.

[Payne]

it has bit me once also about a year ago. when i recieve the lifter i will plug it into the DC8 and run it outside the tank from pail to pail and see if i can create 2.5 gallons in one day. After that i will be going online with the kalk and testing daily at 7 p.m. my 2 part dosing will follow after. thanks again DG

[David Grigor]

Good luck with your testing and implementation.

I've been running Kalkwasser since 2003. I wouldn't do it anyother way. Routine is really simple one your in maintenance mode. For the last 2 years, I have exclusively used Kalk to take care of my in tank supplementation 100%. However I do still use Calcium chloride and Magnesium to increase the values of my freshly mixed salt ( Instant Ocean is known for being a little on the low side. I go through 2 5 gallon pail of Kalkwasser a year at an annual cost of around $70.

Only thing is during summer months when more humid I don't evaporate as much and do have to add some vinegar to keep the parameters up ( 500ml per 20g which is still lower than the maximum of 45ml per gallon you can do ). In winter, I don't need vinegar. I could even run a little less than saturationed if I wanted as my dkh runs about 10dkh in winter but I just leave as is and let it fall where it may. Summer I run between 8-9 dkh. I don't even bother testing Calcium much, once maybe every couple of months, it's pretty predictable. I do test ALK at least once every couple of weeks just to be sure though.

[Payne]

as the testing goes on a few things to mention.

1. gravity will take into affect and cause a syphon if the output hose of the aqualifter is below the line of water from which it is pumping.

2. is it better to have the aqualifter be the highest point in the process.

3. if the output hose that is feeding kalk needs to be high than the supply pail. should i dose to the tank or sump. and if to the sump how to quiet it down so not to splash etc. since my sump is lower that ATO location which is hidden in a enclosed end table.
4. im using 1/4 tubing. what is a good way to fix the hose into the kalk bucket 2 inches off the bottom.

[David Grigor]

My sump water level is higher than the resevoir water level. Back siphoning is a non-issue for me. Just place the output end higher than your resevoir that may make it higher than you really want becuase of the noise but using check valves isn't really an option because with the kalk they will be one more thing to maintain and clog.

Aqualifter just doesn't create enough pressure to pump 4'+ to the tank. Not going to really be an option. I couldn't even get it to do more than a trickle trying on a 29g tank and stand which sits lower than most show tanks.

I use rigid airline tubing to keep it at the proper depth in the resevoir If your placing a lid on the resevoir you may need to drill a hold for the tubing on the side. I've done it from the top as well but best for it to be fixed. I also use these to help hold the rigid airline tubing in place and also work good for holding the output in place as well if you don't have anything nearby to cable tie it to: http://www.premiumaquatics.com/images/zm-0012.jpg Most mailorder places carry them as well as SWE.

[hypertech]

There are suction cup things you can use to hold the hose. Otherwise, you could zip tie it to something heavy enough to sink and stay on the bottom.

[Payne]

KALK online for 1 full day now. The tank hasnt looked so nice and clean since the day i set it up not sure if they are related but its nice to see no precipe on the glass.

Day 1
cal-440
alk-9
ph-7.67

Day 2
cal-440
alk-7
ph-8.19

do you suggest that i start dosing 2 part or changing my kalk recipe.

[David Grigor]

Give it at least one more day running 100% Kalk for your evaporation and see where your at. For now, no real need to test CA. Just the ALK.

If falls below 7dkh then may need to add some alk portion of your 2 part to get it back up some.

Then try 2.5 teaspoons w/ 25mil of distilled white vinegar and see what it looks like a few days later. Still doesn't do it go to full strength 3 teaspoons and 45mil of vinegar.

What I do is when time to refill the bucket, add the vinegar, then the kalkwasser, then the ro/di.

Keep a close eye on the corals. Vinegar is way weaker than vodka or sugar dosing but it does act as a carbon source for bacteria and will drive down nitrates some too so beware. I've personally not seen any issues but just be on the lookout.

[Payne]

1/19/10 6:30 p.m.

ALK 6.4 which show it is still dropping. i added 60 ml of 2 part to bump it up to 7.4. i will stick with the original recipe tonight and test again tomorrow.

[David Grigor]

Oh. I thought you were using the aqualifter.

So have you learned enough to know if kalkwasser + vinegar will work for your ? or will you have to still supplement 2 part.

If you do have to supplement 2 part, this time, mix up 1/2 strength alk to dose and see if that helps any with precipitation. Add alk in as low of increments as what it practical. The calcium isn't as critical and can be done in one shot or every couple of days.

[Payne]

i am using the aqualifter( i ment original kalk recipe of 2 tsp). I had to add 60 mil of 2 part again last night. So this evening i am going to do 25 mil vinegar with 2.5 tsp kalk.per gallon. I definately see that the original recipe is not going to keep up on my alk demands.

I plan on dumping the pail out and starting with a fresh batch of kalk with vinegar. I was assuming that if i mix with existing kalk it would be diluted and no stable results.

alk 6.4--60 mil to bring back to 7.4
ph-8.25

i have had no precipe since switching to kalk. and it has been easier than i ever thought. I was seriously thinking of selling the tank but now have found my love for it again. My glass literally every day was completely white and i had to remove with a razor blade. This battle was just as bad a the dreaded cyano

[David Grigor]

I've been a real big fan of Kalkwasser. Doesn't create any extra work for me. With the right tools for redundancy it's pretty easy to use safely.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I recall your evap is a little more than 2 gallons. If so 3 teaspoon + 45mil of vinegar. should get you a little extra than the 60mil of 2 part your adding.

You can go forward with 1/2 vinegar w/ 2part supplement to do be sure there are no adverse effects on your corals. But looks like your going to need the full 3 teaspoons + 45mil of vinegar. That should be just right.

[David Grigor]

I plan on dumping the pail out and starting with a fresh batch of kalk with vinegar. I was assuming that if i mix with existing kalk it would be diluted and no stable results.


Can't hurt to go that extra mile but likely not necessary.

Just estimate how many gallons are left and figure that into your vinegar dosage. Never hurts to throw in a little extra of the kalkwasser. What doesn't get used will sit as reserves and get stirred back up on next refill.

Cleaning out the resevoir every quarter or six months should be fine.

[Payne]

i do evaporate 2.5 gallons a day. I have mixed up the new batch of 45 mil and 3 tsp per gallon.

[Payne]

ALK is close to 9 with 45 mil and 3 tsp i am gonna reduce my recipe down to 20 mil per 2.5 tsp and see where that leaves me.

[kylesmoney]

I know it was mentioned before, but have you looked into the possibility that you were dosing way much 2 part? If you were dosing to much, precipitation would be a major sign of that and 340ml a day seems like quiet a bit and then some. Not to say kalk isnt a bad route to go either if it works the way you want it too. just something worth considering.

[Payne]

i was dosing way to much. but that is what was needed to keep my parameters in check. thanks for the input.

[kylesmoney]

i was dosing way to much. but that is what was needed to keep my parameters in check. thanks for the input.

I know it can sound a little counter-intuitive but dosing to much can actually cause your parameters to drop because of precipitation. It is possible that if you decrease your dose the parameters could actually go up. If you got the kalk rolling and you like it, stick with it. But if for some reason you look towards something else in the future, just keep it in mind :-)

[David Grigor]

Assuming kalk was at full saturation on the first try. 2.5g * 82mil = 205 mil of 2 part. 45m + 3 teaspoons my be just a tad too much = 266mil.

So the guestimate would be a precipitate of about 80mil. This likely could have been overcome buy using a quality dosing pump and spreading it out through the day.

Kalk may prove to be a little less time consuming once the routine is established but yes, 2 part could have still been an option with improved equipment.