Wingers 270 gallon in wall build

[Redwinger]

Well people have been wondering what i have decided to do for a tank as well the nano keeping me content is just not the ticket for me. I took down the nano last week and have begun my next escapade in the reefin' world. So I have been over the last couple months trying to decide what I wanted to do. I decided I needed something big. A couple of ideas were a massive tank in the garage that was viewable from the living room. The other was a big tank in the basement. Many factors led me away from the garage and back to the basement. The basement had a area that I was less than pleased with how the drywall turned out. So I began demoing the basement and rebuilding where the tank and the fish room would be located.

A couple of things I did not like with previous tanks had led me to creating a setup that would solve a bunch of issues.

1. What's that smell:laugh:
2. Heat and Humidity:freak6:
3. Water spills:ac39:
4. You aren't cleaning that in my sink:chatter:
5. Clutter:frown:
6. Sound:ac39:

The only way to really alleviate that was with a fish room completely sealed off and insulated from the rest of the house and a in wall tank. Keeping smells, humidity,spills and heat out of the rest of the house.

I installed a ERV unit that I must say is really doing a good job with keeping the house ventilated this winter. We have always had humidity issues in the winter and it has been alleviated with the ERV.

The fish room is 8'x 13'. It will be insulated and sealed up almost airtight to prevent sound and excess heat from escaping into the house in the summer. The hot metal halide light heat will get exhausted outside in the summer and recycled in the winter months. The fish room will have a two part epoxy floor and utility tub and two dedicated 20 amp circuits and one semi dedicated 20 amp circuit. It will as I said be insulated with a vapor barrior and greenboard throughout. The room will also have space for a large frag growout system.


The tank is still in the works as far as size but right now I am looking at 270 gallons 72x36x24. The depth and height are the only variables that could change.(taller/deeper) More than likely they won't as I want to keep the electric bill down. Tunzes will be incorporated again and will have the tunze box's on the tank (sorry Bob:) ) flow will be four of the 6100 streams, two dart closed loops incorporating the live rock racks I did on the 120. Return will be a Tarpon with penductors. Lighting will consist of two 400w xm 20k bulbs in luminarc reflectors and vho actinic lighting to complement it. Skimmer is yet to be determined. Either a Reeflo Orca 250 or a custom dart needlewheel of some sort. Yes it will be BB!!!!


I will update with pics in this thread when I get time. Key word is when I get time. don't expect this build to be like the 120 build was as it is a I will get to it when I get to it mentality :) I would take a pic of the framing tonight but the battery is dead in the camera and I really don't feel like it anyways. Maybe tomorrow. :)

[Chris Goetz]

Sweet! I can't wait.
So you're not building the skimmer for the new tank??? ;)

[Redwinger]

Not sure that is a ways away at this point. :)

[Zibba]

Very exciting. I never saw pictures of your 120, but your nano build was awesome. You have mad reefing skills. *Subscribed* :) (I'm only subscribed to two threads now...that says something - or maybe not)

Are you thinking glass or acrylic?

[Redwinger]

Very exciting. I never saw pictures of your 120, but your nano build was awesome. You have mad reefing skills. *Subscribed* :) (I'm only subscribed to two threads now...that says something - or maybe not)

Are you thinking glass or acrylic?

Acrylic. I like that acrylic is a better insulator,lighter, has more clarity than standard glass and being bb don't have to worry as much about sand scratching it.

Here is a link to the 120 build
http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77922&highlight=build+begin

[smeese]

Your kid(s) graduated and moved out already? ;) Awesome to hear your digging deep into the game again! Hope you are coming to the meeting! It has been a while!

[Redwinger]

Your kid(s) graduated and moved out already? ;) Awesome to hear your digging deep into the game again! Hope you are coming to the meeting! It has been a while!

:laugh: Hence the reason I am taking my time and could care less if it takes years to complete. The 120 build made me sick as I devoted a good two months of summer to it and not spending time with the little one. Now If I go work in the basement she comes with and loves to help but it is not a we need to get it done asap project. Yeah I am planning on making the meeting.:)

[Zibba]

Acrylic. I like that acrylic is a better insulator,lighter, has more clarity than standard glass and being bb don't have to worry as much about sand scratching it.

Here is a link to the 120 build
http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77922&highlight=build+begin

The 120 was absolutely stunning! Glad I got to catch up on that one. Just curious, who did you end up selling the tank to?

[morty]

Tunzes will be incorporated again and will have the tunze box's on the tank (sorry Bob:) ) flow will be four of the 6100 streams, two dart closed loops incorporating the live rock racks I did on the 120. Return will be a Tarpon with penductors.

Holy flow Batman!

[clownnut]

we know you will be back with a monster tank! I cant wait to see some pics. ^_^

[Irenicus]

Very Cool! Glad to see your back in the game!

[Redwinger]

Holy flow Batman!

Oh it is only 80 times turnover without the penductors :laugh: That is low for me:biggrin:

The 120 was absolutely stunning! Glad I got to catch up on that one. Just curious, who did you end up selling the tank to?

Sold it to a guy locally. He was setting it up again but I am not sure what ever happened.

[Zibba]

Red -

I know that this probably won't be happening for awhile, but when you get to making the rock racks, could you take more pictures than were in the 120 build? I had a tough time following along with that part and it seems like a great idea. Thanks well in advance.

[tico mike]

Red will deny it, but I predict this project picks up speed over time.:gay1:

[Otolith]

Red will deny it, but I predict this project picks up speed over time.:gay1:

Yeah, he's already moved up the time frame 2 YEARS from when we were talking on Saturday. :gay1:

[tico mike]

Yeah, he's already moved up the time frame 2 YEARS from when we were talking on Saturday. :gay1:


Yeah, first step is posting a build thread.:gay1:

Hey Red, shouldn't your Avatar be "mini-me"?:biglaugh2:

[Redwinger]

Red -

I know that this probably won't be happening for awhile, but when you get to making the rock racks, could you take more pictures than were in the 120 build? I had a tough time following along with that part and it seems like a great idea. Thanks well in advance.


Yeah or I will be at OD's meeting and I can explain it in detail to you.

Red will deny it, but I predict this project picks up speed over time.:gay1:

Hey only if time allows. But I still am thinking the 1-2 years

Yeah, he's already moved up the time frame 2 YEARS from when we were talking on Saturday. :gay1:

Nope I said it could take that long to complete. Didn't say two years to start.:)

Yeah, first step is posting a build thread.:gay1:

Hey Red, shouldn't your Avatar be "mini-me"?:biglaugh2:

Oh you want a custom avatar too? I can fix that;)

[christensonjes]

How about instead of an in-wall tank, you move it out to be three sided. If you had a nice stand and hood you could use that, or you could sheetrock and paint around it.

I think that would look cool and you would still have it open in the back, plus the added room underneath.

[Redwinger]

thought about that but the wall will be covered in rock/veneer and give it a look of looking into a reef.

[Fish'InMN]

Installed the ERV before the tank was up and running?! What are you, some kind of genius? :biggthumpup:

You mentioned wanting to keep the electricity bill down, have you considered a light mover/rail at all? Just curious if you already eliminated it as an option.

Marty

[Redwinger]

Installed the ERV before the tank was up and running?! What are you, some kind of genius? :biggthumpup:

You mentioned wanting to keep the electricity bill down, have you considered a light mover/rail at all? Just curious if you already eliminated it as an option.

Marty



The erv is from watching a bunch of people have problems with humidity and having some with just a 75 I wanted to make sure the humidity control was more than taken care of. When talking 500 total gallons of a system in a room that is 8'x 13' it was a big obstacle. Hopefully my plan will more than take care of the humidity issue.

Moving light racks are out of the question.

[Redwinger]

Here is the front of the tank/fish room. Almost all the framing is done with the exception of the soffit around the HVAC lines in the room. God I hate framing those things. The blue tape represents a 24" tank height and we will probably stick to that dimension for height as it really looks and feels right. The tank will sit 40" off the ground so you won't have to bend down to look at the tank. The portion above the tank will have doors to allow access from the front if need be. The lighting will be on a track that slides to the right side for easy access to the tank. There are two recessed lights above where the tank sits to help with lighting when the light rack is pushed off to the side. There will be one return vent into the hvac system. The return vent is before the ERV unit so any excess humidity is evacuated before it gets to the rest of the house. One supply vent will be added to the room to help keep it cool in the summer time. A 3/4" hose will be run outside to bring in fresh air to the skimmer intake at all times. This will help stabilize the PH more. Might make heating the tank a little tougher in the winter time but a bypass valve will be installed to shut off the outdoor air if it becomes a problem. There is out outlet above the tank that all of the lighting will tie into.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC02632.jpg

[Zibba]

You already have it framed? No way this is taking you 2 years to complete. Looking at the picture, it looks like it will be a walk-behind fish room, are you going to make it viewable from the side where you enter? That would be cool.

Looking good Red!

[Redwinger]

You already have it framed? No way this is taking you 2 years to complete. Looking at the picture, it looks like it will be a walk-behind fish room, are you going to make it viewable from the side where you enter? That would be cool.

Looking good Red!



It took two months to frame it! lol that is a snails pace for me. :) And yes it will be seen from the left side when entering the room.

[spazz]

hey red i really think you will need to increase the flow in the tank. what i would recomend is instead of getting the 6100's get the 6300's. four of them to start. then build dual 50 gallon surge tanks with 4" valves. that would give the tank some good flow. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


looking good there with the room. i knew you couldnt be with out a big tank very long. :biggthumpup:

[Redwinger]

I thought about the surge tanks but see no value in them at all.

[mattb]

Surge tanks move ALOT of water,much more so than 6100s. My surge isn't that big, I had to scale it back to 27g from 30ish. I used an 1 1/2" output pipe. Compared to my ecotechs and 6100s, the surge is insane. When we move this spring and I do a real tank, I'm planning to incorporate some big surge tanks, like 50-60 gals. To each his own..

[mattb]

That's looking sweet!

[Havre]

Isnt this project the second item on the agenda? What happen to the in-home pornagraphic theatre you were telling me about? Remember....with vibrating seats and tissue dispensers???

[clownnut]

Isnt this project the second item on the agenda? What happen to the in-home pornagraphic theatre you were telling me about? Remember....with vibrating seats and tissue dispensers???

:eek4: :shocked: lol

[clownnut]

[QUOTE=spazz;49087]6300's. four of them to start. then build dual 50 gallon surge tanks with 4" valves. that would give the tank some good

:biggrin: :biggrin:

[Redwinger]

Surge tanks move ALOT of water,much more so than 6100s. My surge isn't that big, I had to scale it back to 27g from 30ish. I used an 1 1/2" output pipe. Compared to my ecotechs and 6100s, the surge is insane. When we move this spring and I do a real tank, I'm planning to incorporate some big surge tanks, like 50-60 gals. To each his own..


Surge tanks move as much water as the pump that fills it.;) They will move more water in a sorter period of time yes but they still only will provide a GPH rating of the pump you use to fill the surge. I will take the 4 6100 tunzes at 12,780 gph (cut this in half if they alternate 6390gph) over two 50 gallon surge tanks that if using a 1000gph pump to fill them will only deliver a maximum of 1000gph. I have never understood why people insinuate they move more water than they do. My original plan of the external tunze box's that act as wavebox will give the tank more than enough washing.

[gogregerson]

I thought the idea of surge tanks was you used a smaller pump, 1000gph, to fill the surge tank over a period of time, like 2min. then when filled gravity pushes it out a larger opening so it empties in like 20sec. Unless I'm wrong here I'd say that's a hell of a lot more flow then the pump filling it. Granted it's not a constant linear flow but that's not what we really want anyways, is it?

[mattb]

You are correct Glen.

John you're missing what the surge devices do, the velocity of the water emptying is so much faster than what those tunzes do. Filling and emptying are two very different things. The flow rate upon emptying is huge due to the siphon that is created. When I had the 30-some gallon going, you could hear it empty, sounded like a rocket taking off.... had to take this off as the drain wasn't big enough to handle the water.....

BTW, what's the dimensions of your tank, you indicated 24" high....

[mattb]

hey red i really think you will need to increase the flow in the tank. what i would recomend is instead of getting the 6100's get the 6300's. four of them to start. then build dual 50 gallon surge tanks with 4" valves. that would give the tank some good flow. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


looking good there with the room. i knew you couldnt be with out a big tank very long. :biggthumpup:

4" inch surges, wow, that would be huge, can't really fathom how lifelike that would be.....

[gogregerson]

Think of a surge tank as a toilet tank. It works on the same concept. A little flow in and a lot of flow out.

[mattb]

Yup, I'm running one :) I'm going to try out Bornemans version which is really close to a toilet design on a smaller scale....

[Redwinger]

You are correct Glen.

John you're missing what the surge devices do, the velocity of the water emptying is so much faster than what those tunzes do. Filling and emptying are two very different things. The flow rate upon emptying is huge due to the siphon that is created. When I had the 30-some gallon going, you could hear it empty, sounded like a rocket taking off.... had to take this off as the drain wasn't big enough to handle the water.....

BTW, what's the dimensions of your tank, you indicated 24" high....

They will move more water in a sorter period of time yes

:)



24" minimum 27" max haven't decided yet.


Back to surges. They have their place absolutely, just not on my tank:)

[gogregerson]

:)



24" minimum 27" max haven't decided yet.


Back to surges. They have there place absolutely, just not on my tank:)

Now your making sense :tongue1:

[spazz]

Yup, I'm running one :) I'm going to try out Bornemans version which is really close to a toilet design on a smaller scale....

you dont want to do that. its a bubble factory. you will never be able to view your tank without a bunch of micro bubbles in there. if you want a bubble free surge go and view the one i built for st judes. its 100% bubble free.

[mattb]

:)



24" minimum 27" max haven't decided yet.


Back to surges. They have their place absolutely, just not on my tank:)


Sweet, can't wait to see it! That's going to be sweet. I'm pretty jealous of your skillz, I've not the patience or skillz to do that work...

[Redwinger]

Sweet, can't wait to see it! That's going to be sweet. I'm pretty jealous of your skillz, I've not the patience or skillz to do that work...


It is my relaxation time as the wife calls it. I have always been one to tinker and do things my self. Probably comes from the fact both grandfathers worked in construction their whole life.

[mattb]

you dont want to do that. its a bubble factory. you will never be able to view your tank without a bunch of micro bubbles in there. if you want a bubble free surge go and view the one i built for st judes. its 100% bubble free.

Are you doing an internal CSD or a regular one? I'm running an internal now and only have micro bubbles for the first couple of seconds....

[mattb]

It is my relaxation time as the wife calls it. I have always been one to tinker and do things my self. Probably comes from the fact both grandfathers worked in construction their whole life.

Yeah... I'm jealous.... So you're thinking 500g in total, 24" high, 5 or 6 feet in length? 4 feet deep? Bob's building your tank?

[Redwinger]

Yeah... I'm jealous.... So you're thinking 500g in total, 24" high, 5 or 6 feet in length? 4 feet deep? Bob's building your tank?

Main display roughly 270+ a lot depends on if I settle on 36" deep or 48" deep and 24" or 27" high. The only given is a minimum of 72x36x24. Sump size will be around 125-150 gallons. A large frag prop system will also be incorporated for a little side gig the wife is going to do.

Of course Bob is going to build the tank.:) I just have to settle on a design. I do know that I have to make it more complicated than the 120. He said that tank was to easy to build:laugh:.

[spazz]

Are you doing an internal CSD or a regular one? I'm running an internal now and only have micro bubbles for the first couple of seconds....
no the carlson design is too much of a bubble factory. my design is based on an electric valve on the bottom of the tank that does not let all the water out of the tank. it closes just before the tank runs dry. then it refills and starts the cycle all over again.


hey red i think you should go with the 48" deep. you wont regret it. it makes aquascaping alot more fun because you have so much room to work with.
a 27H x 48w x 72 l would be 403 gallons external dementions. that would be about 375 internal size. it would be one sweet tank.

the only thing you might want to reconsider is the reeflo skimmer. there made in china and there having problems with the acrylic they use. its crazing. plus all the plumbing is metric and its hard to find metric gate valves to put on thre to convert there stupid water adjustment pipe.

[mattb]

Go 48" deep!!!! Are you going CL too again?

I've also heard rumblings about issues with reeflos new skimmers..... Lighting? Halides/ T5 mix?

[Redwinger]

no the carlson design is too much of a bubble factory. my design is based on an electric valve on the bottom of the tank that does not let all the water out of the tank. it closes just before the tank runs dry. then it refills and starts the cycle all over again.


hey red i think you should go with the 48" deep. you wont regret it. it makes aquascaping alot more fun because you have so much room to work with.
a 27H x 48w x 72 l would be 403 gallons external dementions. that would be about 375 internal size. it would be one sweet tank.

the only thing you might want to reconsider is the reeflo skimmer. there made in china and there having problems with the acrylic they use. its crazing. plus all the plumbing is metric and its hard to find metric gate valves to put on thre to convert there stupid water adjustment pipe.



Yeah the skimmer is why I more than likely will just build my own. The reeflo would work but I would have to mod it anyways to my liking. The 48" depth is still a possibility but I am not sure I want to add more 400w halides than I need too. I have been spoiled over the last year with just a nano and electricity bills being low. Plus having four feet behind the tank vs having five feet behind the tank is also a determining factor. When the room gets finished and I can lay down some tape on the floor to get a idea of what the footprints will be will judge the depth measurement.:)

[Redwinger]

Go 48" deep!!!! Are you going CL too again?

I've also heard rumblings about issues with reeflos new skimmers..... Lighting? Halides/ T5 mix?


Yep live rocks racks closed loop like I did on the 120:biggthumpup:. Two racks with a Dart for each rack. This was a huge success at keeping the BB clean of detritus and keeping it suspended in the water column.

Lighting will be dependent on tank depth. if only 36" deep 2 400w halides if 48" deep 4 400w halides. t-5 actinics or vho have not decided yet.

[mattb]

Yep live rocks racks closed loop like I did on the 120:biggthumpup:. Two racks with a Dart for each rack. This was a huge success at keeping the BB clean of detritus and keeping it suspended in the water column.

Lighting will be dependent on tank depth. if only 36" deep 2 400w halides if 48" deep 4 400w halides. t-5 actinics or vho have not decided yet.

Sweet. Build your own skimmer eh? Be sure to include a bubble plate :) I want to do that too, just to say I can. I'm thinking like a 6' tall, 2' wide, bubble plate with a force-fed dart needlewheel recirc, fed like a counter current.... but I need to work on the house first and sell it...

[Redwinger]

Sweet. Build your own skimmer eh? Be sure to include a bubble plate :) I want to do that too, just to say I can. I'm thinking like a 6' tall, 2' wide, bubble plate with a force-fed dart needlewheel recirc, fed like a counter current.... but I need to work on the house first and sell it...

Not sure on dimensions yet but similar in design to the reeflo's only modified to my liking. Dart needlewheel is a given :)

[spazz]

hey red here is a skimmer design that might work for you.

http://swfmas.com/node/228

[spazz]

Be sure to include a bubble plate :) I want to do that too, just to say I can. I'm thinking like a 6' tall, 2' wide, bubble plate with a force-fed dart needlewheel recirc, fed like a counter current....


i assume those numbers are inches and not feet? if those numbers are correct i want to see the tank you plan to hook that monster to.

[clownnut]

hey red here is a skimmer design that might work for you.

http://swfmas.com/node/228

:biggthumpup: :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup:

[Redwinger]

Here is a mock up of what it will look like when it is done. Colors are close. The walls will be a toffee crunch color and white trim and white doors. The doors above the tank will lift up and our independent of each other. Not entirely to scale but is pretty close :)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/AQUARIUMMOCKUP.jpg

[Redwinger]

hey red here is a skimmer design that might work for you.

http://swfmas.com/node/228

Scott that is what I am thinking about. Very similar in design. One question. I see in the beginning it had a bubble diffuser plate and the end shows a cone in place of this. Why was this changed?

[Redwinger]

Got bored tonight and went down and got the soffit built around the HVAC trunks, got the two rear recessed lights mounted in their final spot. The next steps are getting the HVAC supply and return lines in, finish the framing of the door to the utility room, button up the electrical and then I can insulate and put on the vapor barrier. I am going to use the expanding foam around all the electrical box's to make sure they are sealed up tight. Maybe by April I will be able to start rockin. :)

In the background you can see the new ERV that will take care of all the humidity. (I hope)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC02671.jpg

[Zibba]

:bump1:

Do we really need to wait until April to get some more progress out of you?

[Redwinger]

Nope here is a update. I moved some scrap would out of the way when I needed to get something. That is all for now.:biggrin: All seriousness when life gets back to normal I will dive into it more but so much is going on that it is hard to think about. Just don't have the time right now. Be patient it will be worth the wait. I promise.:)

[hypertech]

Did you at least pick out a spot for that insane DI?

[Redwinger]

It will go next to the RODI filter that is going to sit about the utility tub. The DI is bigger than the RO unit. Crap I could probably just hook up the tap to the di only and get 0 TDS.:laugh:

[spazz]

are you getting the DI unit that looks like this????
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/bigpermparod/IMG_8600.jpg

[hypertech]

He won half of one of those at the poker tourney.

[Redwinger]

Woo Hoo I might get a chance to work on it this weekend! Two days off in a row and I brought a truck home to clean out the scraps and garage. I might actually be able to get something done this weekend :)

[hypertech]

Talking to Ryan, that thing is full of resin already. That extra bag was supposed to be an extra prize, so you have enough DI resin to survive a nuclear winter.

[Zibba]

Woo Hoo I might get a chance to work on it this weekend! Two days off in a row and I brought a truck home to clean out the scraps and garage. I might actually be able to get something done this weekend :)


Don't tease us. You only have a month before you promised real action!

[Flounder]

is there a floor drain in that room? How big will the fish room be?

[Redwinger]

Talking to Ryan, that thing is full of resin already. That extra bag was supposed to be an extra prize, so you have enough DI resin to survive a nuclear winter.

Yeah that thing is crazy.

Don't tease us. You only have a month before you promised real action!

Just a few things to do this weekend and cleanup.

is there a floor drain in that room? How big will the fish room be?

No floor drain in that room. Will have a epoxy floor and the room is about 8' deep and about 13' wide.

[Redwinger]

Got the rest of the framing completed and most of the cleanup done. (One 8' box full of crap and three garbage cans full:freak6: ) I am going to add another 20amp dedicated circuit for the frag tank I decided and then I have to run the HVAC vents and insulate and then I can rock it. Kudos to my little helper today. She helped with getting nails and tools when dad needed them.:biggthumpup:

The HVAC vents are going to be a pain in the rear. I was thinking a cold air return that would feed into the main truck and then the erv. Than a single supply line above the tank for ac in the summer. Anyone see a issue with that?

[Redwinger]

More progress today. Got the plumbing roughed in for the utility tub, the rest of the electrical done, cold air supply vent in and return air vent in. Starting some sheet rocking after dinner. Hopefully some pictures to follow :)

[Redwinger]

Hung a few pieces today. Hope to have it all rocked and taped by the end of April.

Little helper

is looking at the back right corner of the room. Utility tub will go on the left as you can make out the rough in's. Also the frag tank will eventually go in this corner.http://www.tcmas.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=52&pictureid=352

[mattb]

Sweet! What are you doing posting, get your a@#$ back to work!!!!

[Redwinger]

Ok been thinking about a couple things.

1. Heat in the summer in the fish room.
2. Fresh air intake for the skimmer.

The current plan has got me concerned about all the heat in the fish room going to the house in the summer time. The air exchanger is going to work against me in the summer I feel by taking the hot air from the fish room and exchanging it with hot outside air and retaining most of the hot air from the fish room. In the winter time this is good, but the summertime it is going to keep our AC on more than desired. So the question is this. Can I run a exhaust fan into the output vent on the air exchanger? In theory it will push the air out and push it out with the stale air at the same time? I really want to avoid another hole in the house for a separate vent.

Fresh air intake for the skimmer in the winter. I plan on putting a pvc pipe to the outside of the house to allow the skimmer to pull fresh air in the winter time to help keep the tank not only cool but also help with the PH when the house is buttoned up. The air exchanger will help with this some but I feel it will benefit the PH stability much more in the winter time. So PVC pipe to a guest fitting that will then run through carbon to prevent any nasties from outside getting into the tank and then to the skimmer. Is this overkill or worth the hours work?

[morty]

The HVAC vents are going to be a pain in the rear. I was thinking a cold air return that would feed into the main truck and then the erv. Than a single supply line above the tank for ac in the summer. Anyone see a issue with that?

Do you have a diagram?

[smeese]

I know people that have tried this and it was a waste of time because the temp dropped too low. The tank was not 300 gallons plus though. Wyth the air exchanger do you really think it will be a problem as far as Co2 in the winter? Light a fuge after lights out maybe?
Ok been thinking about a couple things.

1. Heat in the summer in the fish room.
2. Fresh air intake for the skimmer.

The current plan has got me concerned about all the heat in the fish room going to the house in the summer time. The air exchanger is going to work against me in the summer I feel by taking the hot air from the fish room and exchanging it with hot outside air and retaining most of the hot air from the fish room. In the winter time this is good, but the summertime it is going to keep our AC on more than desired. So the question is this. Can I run a exhaust fan into the output vent on the air exchanger? In theory it will push the air out and push it out with the stale air at the same time? I really want to avoid another hole in the house for a separate vent.

Fresh air intake for the skimmer in the winter. I plan on putting a pvc pipe to the outside of the house to allow the skimmer to pull fresh air in the winter time to help keep the tank not only cool but also help with the PH when the house is buttoned up. The air exchanger will help with this some but I feel it will benefit the PH stability much more in the winter time. So PVC pipe to a guest fitting that will then run through carbon to prevent any nasties from outside getting into the tank and then to the skimmer. Is this overkill or worth the hours work?

[smeese]

By the way everthing looks sick! I can not wait for the project to start getting tank based.

[morty]

The current plan has got me concerned about all the heat in the fish room going to the house in the summer time. The air exchanger is going to work against me in the summer I feel by taking the hot air from the fish room and exchanging it with hot outside air and retaining most of the hot air from the fish room. In the winter time this is good, but the summertime it is going to keep our AC on more than desired. So the question is this. Can I run a exhaust fan into the output vent on the air exchanger? In theory it will push the air out and push it out with the stale air at the same time? I really want to avoid another hole in the house for a separate vent.

I have the same questions for summertime. I think the issue comes down to humidity. The ERV will help with temperature, but it is supposed to also be a barrier to humidity.

So in a house without an aquarium, A/C reduces humidity and temp indoors, and the ERV exchanges air while protecting the lower humidity/temp indoors.

But what happens when you have an aquarium that can potentially make the indoor air more humid than even summer outdoor air. You don't want to use an ERV to keep the humidity inside when less humid air is available outside. At first glance is seems like An HRV makes more sense here. But maybe the answer is just to run an ERV less often in summer, and let the A/C remove the bulk of the aquarium humidity?

[spazz]

Ok been thinking about a couple things.

1. Heat in the summer in the fish room.
2. Fresh air intake for the skimmer.

The current plan has got me concerned about all the heat in the fish room going to the house in the summer time. The air exchanger is going to work against me in the summer I feel by taking the hot air from the fish room and exchanging it with hot outside air and retaining most of the hot air from the fish room. In the winter time this is good, but the summertime it is going to keep our AC on more than desired. So the question is this. Can I run a exhaust fan into the output vent on the air exchanger? In theory it will push the air out and push it out with the stale air at the same time? I really want to avoid another hole in the house for a separate vent.

Fresh air intake for the skimmer in the winter. I plan on putting a pvc pipe to the outside of the house to allow the skimmer to pull fresh air in the winter time to help keep the tank not only cool but also help with the PH when the house is buttoned up. The air exchanger will help with this some but I feel it will benefit the PH stability much more in the winter time. So PVC pipe to a guest fitting that will then run through carbon to prevent any nasties from outside getting into the tank and then to the skimmer. Is this overkill or worth the hours work?

if you wanted to do this you can install a bypass pipe for the outgoing air. that way it does not "exchange" the tempature of one air for the other in the summer time. then i would also have that on a hemostat to turn on when the humidity gets high in the roon. not so much when the tempature in the room is higher than usual. all though you can set it up to work both ways. when the humidity is high or the tempature is high. you can also tap into the incomming air pipe to the air exchanger and feed the skimmer that way. then you only have 2 holes in the side of the house to feed the air exchanger. just get a couple of "blast gates" for dusto collection systems to make the bypass loup on the air exchanger. open one and close the other to bypass the exchanger.

[spazz]

Hung a few pieces today. Hope to have it all rocked and taped by the end of April.

Little helper
http://www.tcmas.org/forums/imagehosting/147e07347002b1.jpg
This is looking at the back right corner of the room. Utility tub will go on the left as you can make out the rough in's. Also the frag tank will eventually go in this corner.
http://www.tcmas.org/forums/imagehosting/147e07302d3c27.jpg


is it just me or did the links to these pictures get messed up. we need PICTURES! :biggthumpup::biggthumpup:

[REEFSTOCK]

You could just put a "T" in the air going out, and a gate to the unit. Then add a duct fan. In the summer you could just blow air out. You should be able to get air from your conditioned house to get sucked into the room.

you don't want air from your fish room to get into the house, but the other way doesn't matter so much.

[Redwinger]

I know people that have tried this and it was a waste of time because the temp dropped too low. The tank was not 300 gallons plus though. Wyth the air exchanger do you really think it will be a problem as far as Co2 in the winter? Light a fuge after lights out maybe?

I have heard that to, but I figure that it is easier to do it now then after the walls are finished. I think I will just tap into the intake for the erv.

I have the same questions for summertime. I think the issue comes down to humidity. The ERV will help with temperature, but it is supposed to also be a barrier to humidity.

So in a house without an aquarium, A/C reduces humidity and temp indoors, and the ERV exchanges air while protecting the lower humidity/temp indoors.

But what happens when you have an aquarium that can potentially make the indoor air more humid than even summer outdoor air. You don't want to use an ERV to keep the humidity inside when less humid air is available outside. At first glance is seems like An HRV makes more sense here. But maybe the answer is just to run an ERV less often in summer, and let the A/C remove the bulk of the aquarium humidity?

In theory they will keep the humidity out of the house and get rid of the humidity in the house. At least that is my understanding.

if you wanted to do this you can install a bypass pipe for the outgoing air. that way it does not "exchange" the tempature of one air for the other in the summer time. then i would also have that on a hemostat to turn on when the humidity gets high in the roon. not so much when the tempature in the room is higher than usual. all though you can set it up to work both ways. when the humidity is high or the tempature is high. you can also tap into the incomming air pipe to the air exchanger and feed the skimmer that way. then you only have 2 holes in the side of the house to feed the air exchanger. just get a couple of "blast gates" for dusto collection systems to make the bypass loup on the air exchanger. open one and close the other to bypass the exchanger.

I can't do as your describing but can rig up something. The ERV attaches to the duct and only has a intake and output. The other ducts are built into the erv that attaches to the return trunk. http://www.renewaire.com/for_your_home/what_product_fits_you.php I have the br130


You could just put a "T" in the air going out, and a gate to the unit. Then add a duct fan. In the summer you could just blow air out. You should be able to get air from your conditioned house to get sucked into the room.

you don't want air from your fish room to get into the house, but the other way doesn't matter so much.

Thats what I am thinking.

[Goldpony75]

When putting the T in I would make sure of a couple things.
1. that when either unit is running that it cant draw back wards through the other unit.
2. that only one unit is running at a time as the intake hood probably cant handle that much volume.



I do high end custom remodeling and we have had a couple of each of these type of units installed and normally in our climate the HRV's are the best option. But when you start to throw in the humidity a aquarium puts out then you are better going with a ERV' from my understanding of how they work is that they will decrease the humidity inside the house only to the point it is outside. but will not increase the humidity inside to match the outside.

[Redwinger]

When putting the T in I would make sure of a couple things.
1. that when either unit is running that it cant draw back wards through the other unit.
2. that only one unit is running at a time as the intake hood probably cant handle that much volume.





Can you explain this a little more in detail. I think I know what you are getting at and the exhaust fan will be about half the cfm as the air exchanger to prevent this. The exhaust fan will only be used in the summer on the hot days to help get rid of the extra heat. It won't be used in the winter as I am going to recycle all the hot air in the fishroom.

[Redwinger]

Starting to research the lighting and am contemplating t-5's I just have a couple of questions. The tank is going to be 72" long 36" deep and 24"tall.

Would 12 35" t-5s be enough or would I need more? Was thinking 6 12k 3 14k and 3 actinic? All run off of icecap 660's with slr reflectors.

The other scenario is 2 400w on a bluewave balast running 20k radiums in lumiarcs , with 2 160w actinic vho's

Somewhat interested in the t-5 route for less heat and less power. However I love the shimmer from halides.

[hypertech]

Why not do both? Put the halides over the tops of the rock structure where most of the SPS will go and T5's over the rest.

[Redwinger]

Cause the luminarcs have a 36" by 36" spread so there would be no need to IMO.

[hypertech]

I guess I was thinking smaller halides like 250DE's if you went with a mix.

[mattb]

John, are you going to do a hardcore sps tank again?

[NandKBlock]

However I love the shimmer from halides.

I'm a T5 fan myself but if you love the shimmer then GET THE SHIMMER! You're investing a lot of time and money in this and you'll be looking at it for years to come so there's no sense in cutting out something you really enjoy. :2cents:

[Redwinger]

John, are you going to do a hardcore sps tank again?
Does a Bear shat in the woods;)
I'm a T5 fan myself but if you love the shimmer then GET THE SHIMMER! You're investing a lot of time and money in this and you'll be looking at it for years to come so there's no sense in cutting out something you really enjoy. :2cents:

Yes but I could get used to it.

[Chris Goetz]

I tend to like both high and low light areas so if it were my tank I'd be tempted to use 4' bulbs(minute difference in price for bulbs, reflectors, ballasts than 3') and overlap them in the middle. Or use 2' T5s on the ends and halide in the middle.

I did some comparison and 3' bulbs seem to be a waste on anything other than a 3' tank. You can run 4 2' bulbs on a ic430(cheaper than ic660)

Again, my .02 may not be worth even that. ;)

Chris

[mattb]

Does a Bear shat in the woods;)


If you are going all T5, I'd do more than 12... I have 10 over my 120 :) Take how deep your tank will be and divide by 2.5, that'll tell you know many T5s you'll need for a SPS tank (credit: Iwan). Use Ice Cap reflectors too, don't skimp on those.... On big sps tanks... the initital outlay for T5s is higher than halides... :(. If you got halide, I'd go lumenbrights and 400 galaxy ballasts running radiums....

My .02, wait, .04 cents...

Didn't see the rest of your specs.... For T5s, definitely stagger 48" T5s, you wouldn't need to use ICs to overdrive them, so you could buy a good T5 spec ballast 2 x 54w for like $35 (from me :) ). I measure the PAR under my tank, meaning through the bottom glass/above my sump, and I'm getting 160PAR there with non-overdriven T5s with good reflectors and good cooling. You could also consider going 5' lamps, but you'll have less bulb selection at that length....

[Redwinger]

Got a little more done tonight. The insulation is all up on the tank viewing wall. I am only doing this wall for sound deadening. I might also do the ceiling but have not decided.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03189.jpg

Also got the exhaust fan roughed in. This is directly above the tank on the right side looking at the tank from the back. All the heat from the lights will go out this and into the output of the air exchanger to the outside. I tapped into the air exchanger outlet with a 90 degree elbow and taped it up tight. There is no back flow when the exhaust vent trap is open and the air exchanger is on. This is going to be timed to come on in conjunction with the lighting system.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03191.jpg
Here is the 90 that I used to bring the 3" vent pipe into the 6" air exchanger outlet. Not Ideal but it works.

Next on the list.
1. Finish electrical to fan.
2. Finish sheet rocking
3. tape and sand.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03193.jpg

[old_man_river]

looks good jon. the joy of the build:beerchug:

[Goldpony75]

Looking Great John!!!! cant wait till its done in 2010? :poke:

[Redwinger]

Looking Great John!!!! cant wait till its done in 2010? :poke:

I was thinking 2012:gay1:

[old_man_river]

you will be thinking bigger by then

[Redwinger]

you will be thinking bigger by then

I could add another foot to the depth but then Bob would have to build it in the basement.

[Chris Goetz]

I could add another foot to the depth but then Bob would have to build it in the basement.

That has a certain cool factor by itself... until you sell and the buyer wants it removed. :mad:

[Redwinger]

That has a certain cool factor by itself... until you sell and the buyer wants it removed. :mad:

Yep but it could still be removed even at that size. If the height went above 30" I would be screwed with removing it.

[wolmutt]

back to lighting, I like how morty did a combination of lighting, both bright and lower light areas.

[morty]

The scheme has worked out ok, but if I did it again I might not use the two 96W quad tube PC pendants. It doesn't seem like their color temperature really does much for the coral coloration. And there is wasted light from rebounce etc. A DE 175W pendant might have been a better idea.

But it is interesting that standing back and looking at the tank it's not easy to see a brightness difference from one end to the other, which was something I was concerned about. So I'd say it's possible to "zone" a tank by varying the intensity in certain areas without impacting aesthetics. But bottom line is I'm personally about designing something so I can tweak it later without it being a major pita :)

Setup is looking cool Winger!

[Redwinger]

Made some more progress. The walls are all rocked and have a couple pieces to put up on the ceiling. Then I can Mud and Tape. This is looking it from the viewing side.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/Tankwall.jpg

[Zibba]

Looks great Red! What are the dimension of the viewing side?

[Redwinger]

Looks great Red! What are the dimension of the viewing side?


Thanks, slowly but surely :)

It will be 72" wide and 24" high the rest of the space will be cabinet doors to provide access to the front of the tank. I am doing this for more convenience than anything as trying to place corals on a 3' deep tank from the back to the front would be a huge PITA.

[spazz]

its looking really good red. you should have fish and corals in there by this time next year. you are going to love the 36" deep tank. energys neighgor just installed a 5'w x 3'd x 2'h tank in his house. that extra foot rellay makes a difference in the look of the tank. do you plan to have 1 big door in the front or 2 smaller dors in he front? what is the size of the doors? :wink3:

[DwightKeenan]

Can't wait to see more.

I am going to be doing the same thing very soon at my house.

[NandKBlock]

Nice job on the outlet box cutout. I hate doing those...

[DwightKeenan]

Dumb question....

Do you lose anything by having the depth in the fish room?

By this I mean, I was thinking of doing the same thing, but was going to have the tank be viewable from front and two sides, so only back is in the fish room.

[tico mike]

Gonna be nice John. I agree with spazz on the front to back depth. Do you have plans on backlighting for added effect?

[Redwinger]

its looking really good red. you should have fish and corals in there by this time next year. you are going to love the 36" deep tank. energys neighgor just installed a 5'w x 3'd x 2'h tank in his house. that extra foot rellay makes a difference in the look of the tank. do you plan to have 1 big door in the front or 2 smaller dors in he front? what is the size of the doors? :wink3:
Not sure if I am doing two big doors or Four smaller doors. Probably four smaller doors.

Nice job on the outlet box cutout. I hate doing those...
Could have been much better but oh well they are a PITA.

Dumb question....

Do you lose anything by having the depth in the fish room?

By this I mean, I was thinking of doing the same thing, but was going to have the tank be viewable from front and two sides, so only back is in the fish room.
With the 3' depth on the tank I will still have just over 5' from the back of the tank to the back of the wet room. The room is 8' deep as it is. However there will be a couple 75's in there for fuges and what not and a frag tank in a opposing corner. So it will be tight but no where near as tight as a standalone tank on a stand. ;)

Gonna be nice John. I agree with spazz on the front to back depth. Do you have plans on backlighting for added effect?

Mood lighting? No plans for it. There are four recessed cans in the room and the back of the tank will have a black acrylic panel velcro-ed on to the back so no ambient light from the room will hit the tank. There are two cans above where the tank will go, when the light rail slides out of the way to help with getting light to the tank when placing corals. The walls are all going to be painted white and the floor white with BRIGHT RED trim. :biggrin: It is my Man cave so go figure it will have a Detroit theme to it.:gay1:

[benihana]

looks great...sounds like a fun "little" project :)

[saltysailor]

redwinger how long is it going to take you to do this project? and whats going to be in it?

[Redwinger]

redwinger how long is it going to take you to do this project? and whats going to be in it?
Probably a year or so. SPS is there anything else? :)

[NandKBlock]

I've got another. Are the Redwings destined to be the NHL's version of last year's Patriots? :biggrin:

[Redwinger]

I've got another. Are the Redwings destined to be the NHL's version of last year's Patriots? :biggrin:

At least we are still playing hockey and not golfing:biglaugh2:

[DwightKeenan]

Red,

My question wasn't so much about how much room you have in the fish room, but did you ever think of having the front and sides, be viewable from outside the fish room? Sometimes I like to look in one side of the tank as opposed to just the front.

Instead of the front being flush to the wall, how about the back?

[Redwinger]

I see what you mean, have it stick out a foot or so from the wall? I thought about this but the original plan was to have a video screen come down over the tank. Plus the room you view the tank from is not really big enough IMO. The way I designed the tank also prohibits the viewing on the sides as both sides will have overflows with tunze box's to hide the tunzes.(behind black acrylic) I also like to view from the side but I also like having all the plumbing and pumps concealed as best as possible. ;) I liked the tunze box's so much that I designed on the 120 that I am going to have Bob build them in on both sides on this tank also instead of just one side.

[Redwinger]

The back will be clear acrylic. I will put a thin piece of black acrylic up against the back to hide the equipment in the room. This piece will be velcro-ed to the back so I can remove it to clean the back and look through if desired.

[tico mike]

Not mood lighting ya dork. You'll use a lava lamp for that. If you flex a pice of blue acrylic arched across the back and then lit from behind the tank gets the 3-D (she should be in my apartment) effect.

[DwightKeenan]

Makes sense. I didn't catch that you were going to have side overflows.

This is the tougest decision for me when I setup my fish room.


I see what you mean, have it stick out a foot or so from the wall? I thought about this but the original plan was to have a video screen come down over the tank. Plus the room you view the tank from is not really big enough IMO. The way I designed the tank also prohibits the viewing on the sides as both sides will have overflows with tunze box's to hide the tunzes.(behind black acrylic) I also like to view from the side but I also like having all the plumbing and pumps concealed as best as possible. ;) I liked the tunze box's so much that I designed on the 120 that I am going to have Bob build them in on both sides on this tank also instead of just one side.

[Redwinger]

Not mood lighting ya dork. You'll use a lava lamp for that. If you flex a pice of blue acrylic arched across the back and then lit from behind the tank gets the 3-D (she should be in my apartment) effect.

Maybe you can explain this pice when you get back.:gay1:

[clownnut]

if use clear back, you have to keep it clean, otherwise you will see the salt creep or water mark... why not just do black back, no cleaning needs at all???

[Redwinger]

Li, I plan on cleaning it. The back is only going to be up when taking pictures or when I feel nesc. I want to be able to look through and if not put something up to block the equipment room.

[clownnut]

that's a lot of cleaning area...

[Redwinger]

Little update. Sorry no pics for you. Got half of the ceiling rocked and my back is killing me so a break for a while to heal it up. I did however design my skimmer today.:biggrin:

12" body, 48" total height, wet neck, dart needlewheel recirc, a port for ca rx effluent(blow off excess co2), ozone port, and also a spot for the phosban reactor to dump into the skimmer(skim out any particles). Drain valve at the base of the skimmer etc. All the fun things :) Take a volcano and a reeflo orca and combine them and that is what I came up with. Should be interesting none the less ;)

[old_man_river]

sounds like you are getting all of it pland out.

[spazz]

I did however design my skimmer today.:biggrin:

12" body, 48" total height, wet neck, dart needlewheel recirc, a port for ca rx effluent(blow off excess co2), ozone port, and also a spot for the phosban reactor to dump into the skimmer(skim out any particles). Drain valve at the base of the skimmer etc. All the fun things :) Take a volcano and a reeflo orca and combine them and that is what I came up with. Should be interesting none the less ;)

that is just a 1240 volcano with all the options available. you forgot the about shut down system on there though. lollollol

[Redwinger]

that is just a 1240 volcano with all the options available. you forgot the about shut down system on there though. lollollol

I keep an eye on my tank to much for one of those. I may do one but I doubt it.

[Redwinger]

Not much progress but got some big things off the honey do list.:biggthumpup: The wifey wanted the floors redone on the lower level with a combination of wood/pergo and new carpet. The way it was set up before was generic linoleum in the kitchen and bath and carpet in the dining room and the living room. Carpet in the dining room sucks arse! Also replaced the dishwasher while I was at it. Now that this is finished it is time to get into the basement again tomorrow as I am off all week :) So it was out with the old.....

Looking at the dining room from kitchen
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/before2.jpg

Kitchen looking back to the bathroom and breakfast nook.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/before6.jpg

And now

Looking into the breakfast nook turned mini office
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03330.jpg

Looking out to dining room
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03329.jpg

Looking out to living room from dining room.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03331.jpg

[Chris Goetz]

That looks great John! You even have all the molding done already...
Did you do it all yourself today?
I laid an entry way in that tongue groove tile stuff and it took a few hours with all the cuts. It'd take me a weekend to do all that if not longer. :)

Now back to the tank build:beerchug:
Chris

[Redwinger]

That looks great John! You even have all the molding done already...
Did you do it all yourself today?
I laid an entry way in that tongue groove tile stuff and it took a few hours with all the cuts. It'd take me a weekend to do all that if not longer. :)

Now back to the tank build:beerchug:
Chris

Thanks.

Did the dining room last Sunday and finished the kitchen/bath on Saturday and trimmed it out Sunday. Could have done it all in a day if I started at 6:00am worked till 10:00pm and had no distractions from Anna. She know how to test dad's patience. Measure and say out the measurements to remember it before I go cut and she come up and starts rattling off numbers as I try to remember the measurement:nuts: The carpet I had installed.

[Redwinger]

Ok back to the task at hand. Mudding and tapeing. 1st coat done. Boy did I forget how much I hate mudding:brick: Probably going to need about three to four coats unfotunatelly :(
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03333.jpg

[Goldpony75]

When it comes to drywall and tapping all I can say is better you then me! :clap:



Looking great by the way!

[Flounder]

sanding sucks!

[Redwinger]

sanding sucks!

Yes it does that is why I hope not to sand. Going to try the sponge this time and see how it goes. If all else fails then I will have to.

[DwightKeenan]

Sponging......

What is that method?

Yes it does that is why I hope not to sand. Going to try the sponge this time and see how it goes. If all else fails then I will have to.

[dobbs]

Nice work.

FYI - If you haven't done it already - either get a chairmat under, or hard floor casters on that task chair. The carpet casters will tear up that nice floor in no time.

Pull one caster out - with the stem, then take it to either Skarnes (Mpls 612-339-9141), or Cassidy Ind Sales (Burnsville 952-882-6338). Either will be able to mach the stem.

Dave

[Redwinger]

Sponging......

What is that method?

It is wet sanding with a sponge. The sponge has a gritty side and a normal sponge side. You get the sponge wet and sand with the gritty side and then use the sponge side to get the residue left over. More time consuming but no dust and a much smoother finish.

Nice work.

FYI - If you haven't done it already - either get a chairmat under, or hard floor casters on that task chair. The carpet casters will tear up that nice floor in no time.

Pull one caster out - with the stem, then take it to either Skarnes (Mpls 612-339-9141), or Cassidy Ind Sales (Burnsville 952-882-6338). Either will be able to mach the stem.

Dave

How can I tell if they are carpet casters on it now? They are plastic casters on the chair now.




Today I put the utility tub in but did not secure it to the floor yet. This is a 19 gallon tub that should do the trick for my needs in the room. I was going to wait until the walls were painted and the floor was painted before I put it in but it will make cleanup much easier with it "roughed in" for now. When it comes time to paint I will just un-hook it and move it to the side then permanently mount it in place. I also put the RODI supply valve in at the same time for the rodi unit.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/DSC03338.jpg

[Flounder]

I dunno what you have planned for floors. but I'd recommend the two part epoxy with clear coat. It is super easy to put down, looks good!! Lots of colors and has optional traction to help slippery messes. I just did 5 garages and would throw pointers your way if your interested.

[Redwinger]

Flounder that is the plan :)

[dobbs]

all chairs come with carpet casters standard. They are a hard plastic. Hard floor casters have a rubber ring around the wheels.

[Redwinger]

all chairs come with carpet casters standard. They are a hard plastic. Hard floor casters have a rubber ring around the wheels.


Thanks Dave I will get some.



Another coat of mud today and think I will just need on more possibly two. Starting to take shape and took some more pics to give everyone a general idea of layout.

Looking from the viewing side.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_0214.jpg

Looking into the left from the door. Skimmer will sit along this wall.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_0210.jpg

Looking from the skimmer wall to back right of room
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_0211.jpg

Looking out through the tank to the family room.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_0212.jpg

Looking at the utility tub. On the right will be the frag tank. Thinking 48"x36" Also to the left of the tub will be the quaratine tanks and the 2 75 fuges. Yes, two fuges. One for import and one for export.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_0215.jpg

RODI Saddle valve. The ro unit will sit above the utility tub along with the monster DI
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_0216-1.jpg

[mattb]

Sweet John!

[bob_trrnt]

A little trick for ya. don't sand between coats. Use your mud knife as a scraper to knock the high stuff off. it will smooth it out just enough for the next coat to glide right on. Sometimes the dust residue left over will create bubbles it the following coat after a sand. It will save you tons of time and makes the job a lot easier and gives a better finish. then just sand the last skim coat you put on.

my compliments on how this thing is gunna look, perfect spot for a tank.
Bob T:beerchug:

[Redwinger]

A little trick for ya. don't sand between coats. Use your mud knife as a scraper to knock the high stuff off. it will smooth it out just enough for the next coat to glide right on. Sometimes the dust residue left over will create bubbles it the following coat after a sand. It will save you tons of time and makes the job a lot easier and gives a better finish. then just sand the last skim coat you put on.

my compliments on how this thing is gunna look, perfect spot for a tank.
Bob T:beerchug:

Yep well aware of that. Always scrape with the knife. ( my uncle taught me that and he had hung Drywall for 10 years) :) Was just seeing how many more coats I will need. Also trying the sponge sanding method to get a glimpse of what is in store. IMO I will still sand and the go over it with the sponge. Taking a break for a while as the bod is quite sore from the last week. Hope to put the final coat on next weekend and sand. Then spray the ceilings and paint by the end of June. Trimmed out by July and start building the stand's for the tank and fuges in August.

[bob_trrnt]

Looks awesome. With a family too this kind of project takes a toll on your body. I can totally relate. Love the water supply right there too.

[spectrum]

Loooking great

[morty]

That looks like a very well thought-out space, nice work! A couple sink ideas, I also have a utility tub in the area behind my tank, and one thing I decided to add was some table "wings" that are mounted to the tub on hinges and fold up level on both sides of it. These make life a lot easier when working with test kits or cleaning the skimmer. (I had to make it so they fold because if they were permanent they would interfere with doors etc.) And I mounted a shelf on the wall above the sink and put a strip light on its underside, it helps for reading tests. Last, the faucet has a garden hose thread, so I attached a two-way garden hose splitter and ran one outlet to a pistol type sprayer thru a 3 food hose, and I hang the sprayer on a bicycle tire hook underneath the shelf when I'm not using it. (And if I want water in the sink I just open the other outlet on the splitter.)

[Zibba]

You've been golfing too much haven't you! Any updates Red?

[civil]

Red,
We should get out and play sometime. Eagle Valley outside our back door.
Dan

[Redwinger]

You've been golfing too much haven't you! Any updates Red?

Well we are in the process of a big merger of stores at work and I don't expect to see my family very much for the next couple of months as I am looking at 80+ hours a week for a couple months. So the tank build is on indefinite hold until things slow down.

Red,
We should get out and play sometime. Eagle Valley outside our back door.
Dan

Next year definitely! Or late fall. And then we can play Indian hills. I am a member out there.

[mattb]

Well we are in the process of a big merger of stores at work and I don't expect to see my family very much for the next couple of months as I am looking at 80+ hours a week for a couple months. So the tank build is on indefinite hold until things slow down.


John, good luck with that... hope all goes well

[Redwinger]

Got some me time today to do some work downstairs. Last coat of mud went on this morning, sanded and primed this evening. Just have to texture the ceiling, paint, then trim it out after that.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_1309.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_1308.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/IMG_1307.jpg

[tico mike]

Lookin' good. 'Bout time we saw some action.:beerchug:

[Otolith]

Lookin' good, John. :beerchug:

[hypertech]

Looks good - I'm going to have to start thinking about finishing my basement project now ......

[Adam G]

All right, now the fun part can begin.

[storrisch]

I'd come help paint as long as it speeds this tank build up and there was a beer at the end of the day. :beerchug:

I could also bring my compound mitre over to help get the trim work done.

[Redwinger]

Ceiling is textured and I am starting on the epoxy floor. First a lot of prep work.

[Redwinger]

Suppose it is time for another update. Got the RODI mounted on the wall and the huge *** DI from Ryan. Still have to add a inline tds meter on the left of the DI.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/sands2/RODI.jpg

[thepollock]

I'd come help paint as long as it speeds this tank build up and there was a beer at the end of the day. :beerchug:

I could also bring my compound mitre over to help get the trim work done.

iam with you. john if you need help iam in.

[stuckey_t]

Back into reefin' hardcore!! This will be one serious setup:biggthumpup:

[morty]

Red have you thought about going dual stage on your RO? I had an extra membrane housing so I decided to set mine up this way and the improvement in production rate as well as waste ratio made it well worth it IMO. (you should have at least 50 psi though, and preferably 60+ psi). I see Jake has some used RO/DI units for sale right now.

[old_man_river]

here it is