Acclimation and ammonia burn

[Timmy77]

So the last fish I bought was in transit for about 2 hours and the next morning it was dead. All levels in my tank are very good. I floated the bag for about 15 minutes then opened the bag and added about 1 cup of tank water every 10 minutes for 30 minutes. I called my LFS and he claims it's probably ammonia burn. He says this happens when the fish takes a piss and poo in the bag and tank water is added to slowly turning the water toxic with ammonia. He says he has the best luck by putting the bag in the tank and cutting it open under water so water rushes in fast. He claims 30% less loss. He seems to know what he's talking about with 15 years reef experience. What do you all think?

[Timmy77]

He also uses fresh salt water so your not getting the crud from his tanks.

[wes]

seems like pH and salinity would shock, but I'm just guessing. I'd like to hear more, though, aclimitization always freaks me out.

[Redwinger]

Acclimation is overrated in my book. As long as salinity is close I adjust temp and scoop and release. This goes for everything.

[David Grigor]

Match the salinity of your quarantine to the bag and float the bag a little while to attempt to match temp. I wouldn't have a problem with releasing his tank water since it just a quarantine tank. Over the next 2 weeks acclimate the quarantine conditions to best match your show tank.

[mattb]

Yeah, it can happen due to the ammonia, plus the reduced pH due to additional CO2 from the fish respiration. At a lower pH, ammonia isn't toxic, it's when you add a little tank water that causes it.

Like the others, I don't acclimate salinity, only temp.

[wes]

do you guys do a FW dip before QT tank?

[gogregerson]

Always

[wes]

here's a question then...

what's the point in acclimating so precisely if you're going to drop them in a hypotonic solution and back anyway?

[Timmy77]

Let's hear more.

[John_Salmon]

here's a question then...

what's the point in acclimating so precisely if you're going to drop them in a hypotonic solution and back anyway?

Thats kinda why redwinger is saying that aclimation is over rated. If they are strong specimens from your sorce they should be able to make the transition. Temp is the easiest varubal that you can control so it seems as that should be the most important. just my 10 cents.

[Redwinger]

My thoughts in this especially with corals is that they endure so many natural changes in the wild. Salinity swings temp changes etc. They are hardier than most people give them credit for. Most stonies get exposed to air for over a hour a day in the wild with the tides and do just fine. Then take in account the massive amounts of water that gets flushed through a reef which can have different salinity and temp. Yes they are sensitive but they are sensitive to other things than salinity swings and temp IMO.

[wes]

so, would it makes sense to match temp to your tank's parameters, then float a fish to get their temp right, then FW dip the fish, then put him in the tank? Maybe the reason acclimation is important is that the FW dip isn't long enough to affect the fish's system salinity wise, but they're going to be exposed to the salinity of the tank for a much longer time? I imagine a quick shift in pH/temp would cause more damage/stress and is readily avoided.

[Redwinger]

Well you should QT all specimens of fish and corals. Everybody worries about salinity and temp for acclimation but people do FW dips on fish all the time! That is why I basically quit doing acclimation all together. Granted corals that come in are usually in water that is pretty cold from shipping, then I will get temp close as a 10-15 degree shift in temp is a little drastic. This is just my experience and as always your mileage may vary.:wink:

[wes]

yeah, each tank I was refering to would've been the QT tank