View Full Version : Help for Kent Maxxima RO Filter Change?
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 11:10 AM
The TDS is showing 16 PPM I'm wondering which Filters or all to change?
Then of course best place to buy replacements..Thanks!!
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/steve1600cc/rofilter.jpg
hypertech
12-22-2007, 11:19 AM
16 PPM is the output of the RO?
What is the input water?
That filter looks pretty rusty - but it may not be bad. Take it off and see if the core is still white.
I like the filter guys for RO stuff. Two part also has it, but the service at teh filter guys is second to none - give them a call and they will help you get exactly what you need.
If you order new filters, get yourself a DI canister. Then you'll have 0 TDS tank water.
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 11:22 AM
Yes the output is 16,Incoming City Water here in the Lovely Town of Shafer is 167 PPM.
Was upset to find my Fridge only is Taste and Odor I assumed it Filtered as well but no go....ick!!
hypertech
12-22-2007, 11:24 AM
It sounds like something is up then. I don't know about your membrane, but you are only getting 90% rejection. My input is 800 and I get <10 on the output which is really good.
Call Jim at the filter guys and tell him about your system - he'll know if you need new filters or a new membrane, etc. If you order - definitely consider that DI upgrade. Its only $35 or so.
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 11:27 AM
Ok I will do that,Thanks
David Grigor
12-22-2007, 11:53 AM
I change the sediment when it gets red ( about 3 months for me but it all depends on usage ). Yours looks to need to be replaced. The carbon depending type you buy and how much water you go through should last about 6 months or so.
The DI is totally dependant on the ppm coming out of the ro and usuage but can go through it pretty quickly.
You probably due for all 3. The lower the micron you use for sediment and carbon it will help protect the membrane. If you don't have already you should be a flush kit which will also help wash the particles out of the membrane to prolong it.
hypertech
12-22-2007, 11:54 AM
You'd accomplish the same thing as a flush kit if you just took off the flow restrictor and ran it a couple minutes - correct?
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 12:16 PM
Allright I may have opened a Hornets Nest here but when I got this from my Sister she was not sure of the Plumbing...I tried the kent site and "Believe"I have hooked up right but have never been sure....hopefully someone out there has this one and the Flush kit and can tell me if it looks correct?
If Plumbing is correct that leaves me 2 Valves on top other then Water in so I assume if I turn both of them then that is "Flushing"Kind of like my Skimmer when in Doubt I feel better to buy New which is why I never have any Money!!LOL
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/steve1600cc/Cannon034.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/steve1600cc/Cannon033.jpg
mtfatwork
12-22-2007, 12:20 PM
can you take a pic from farther back so we can see all of it and if you could shrink it down a bit too that would make it easier.... oh, and while you are at it can I have a million dollars too? ;)
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 12:42 PM
I will try,have no idea how to make these Pics smaller though...
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/steve1600cc/rofilter-1.jpg
mtfatwork
12-22-2007, 01:36 PM
well, I have no idea how that thing is setup, but on the plus side, the flush valve looks to be setup correct :)
hypertech
12-22-2007, 01:44 PM
I'm not sure what it is, but something doesn't look right. Take a look at this pic stolen from filter guys page:
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/images/FIVESTAGERODISYSTEMnew.jpg
If you draw a line through the check valve and take your output water where it goes to the DI, that's how it should be plumbed.
Also, the flush valve is basically a bypass around the flow restrictor.
Edit: I figured out why it doesn't look right - there are four lines to the unit. There should be three: A water in, a RO out, and a waste line. Do you know what each color is connected to? I'm also confused as to why the RO is being fed off the center filter.
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 02:18 PM
All I can tell you is Currently:
Orange and Clear are to the Drain.
Blue is the Output or supposedly Filtered Water.
Yellow is the Water in.
Something is messed up,think I need a new one!!(With Instructions!!)
mtfatwork
12-22-2007, 02:41 PM
Matt, the RO is being fed off the second filter because the 3rd looks to have DI resin in it :)
hypertech
12-22-2007, 02:44 PM
ah ha - I take back my comment about buying a DI canister :)
mtfatwork
12-22-2007, 02:55 PM
steve, are the orange and clear "T"ed off of one outlet on the RO? (I think I may know what the problem is)
hypertech
12-22-2007, 02:59 PM
I think I figured it out - the clear is RO drinking water - close that valve.
the back valve attached to the yellow is the input to the DI - open that one.
If you have color changing DI resin, then you probably aren't using it. If not, you need new resin too because its exhausted.
On what color line did you measure the 16 ppm?
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 03:20 PM
On what color line did you measure the 16 ppm?
The Blue one..
hypertech
12-22-2007, 03:23 PM
Is there water coming out of the clear line?
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 03:28 PM
The Clear was going to the Drain when I took out to see no Water was coming from it,(Valve upon inspection was off)..
I think I will just Buy a new one this is Crazy all these Hoses and such...
No wonder my Sister had enough..LOL
I'd rather start from Scratch with new then Dick around with this....Filter Guys here I come!!
(I've read by the time you replace Filters you may as well have New?)
hypertech
12-22-2007, 03:31 PM
Well, you could do that, and if you need all new filters and resin it may not be much extra, but you don't need to.
What you have is 2 pre-filters going to the RO membrans going to a DI cartridge.
Turn the valve and get a sample from the clear tube and measure the TDS. This is water coming right out of your RO membrane. This will help you decide if your membrane is old and needs replacing.
Also, I think you for sure need new resin if it is going through a DI and coming out at 16ppm.
If you want to make it less complicated, you can remove that clear line and both valves and just have a tube there. It is an RO drinking water bypass and if you don't make drinking water, you don't need it.
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 03:47 PM
I think I will take this thing down to really see it better...I just sent an E-mail to the "Filter Guys"if they can hook something up for me to get Fridge Drinking Water and Ice I will go with that..For now I'll try to get this down so I can mess with it..I thought my Sister said one of the Valves on top was for the Flushing out part?
I'd ask her but she'd Motorcycling in Phoenix apparently only 60 there Today the poor souls!!
hypertech
12-22-2007, 03:50 PM
Another image shamelessly stolen from the filter guys.
You can do it, but you need a check valve, a shutoff valve, and a pressure tank.
http://thefilterguys.biz/images/Fiveandsixstageckvalvenew.jpg
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 04:19 PM
Ok I tested the clear line with both valves on top Open and I get 4 PPM...
Blue is 16...
hypertech
12-22-2007, 04:21 PM
Sounds to me like all you need is $12 worth of new resin. Tell that to Jim when you call just in case I'm incorrect. As long as you are ordering, you could consider new filters.
Did you check to see how far into the filter that discoloration extends?
steve1600cc
12-22-2007, 04:25 PM
I'm not sure what to make of this Resin deal,From what I can see these three containers(Clear)are Filters and the top would be the Blue Membrane..
Apparently I need to get from the Clear since that is so much better..so what the Heck is the Blue Line for?
hypertech
12-22-2007, 04:30 PM
When resin is fully saturated, it starts leeching back into the water. I don't know if it should go from 4-16 though.
Look at the DI resin page: http://thefilterguys.biz/di_resin.htm
And try to figure out if that is what's in that third canister.
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