PH and overall Tank Health??

[steve1600cc]

OK with Certainty I give you these numbers this time...this is a 125 Gallon with Super Flow, a Skimmer,adding a 2 part Solution Daily only thing recently added was Approx 90 Pounds of Eco Rock on Thursday I am in the Process of getting a Water Change ready.
KH=10.7
ALK=3.84
MAG=1490
CA=500+
PH=7.83
These are Salifert Tests and Aqua Jr for PH which is Calibrated After regular Calibration I put Sensor in both Testing Liquids and they both Matched what they were supposed to be(7&10)so Comfortable with PH result Accuracy..
Thanks!!

[PLNelson]

Your PH is low. I'm stupid beyond that point.

[hypertech]

With the new dead rock, you'll want to watch ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

[morty]

Your pH seems too low. How fresh were the calibration solutions? I've heard the pH 10 solution can drift down quite a bit if it's not fresh, due to atmospheric CO2. This could give you falsely low pH measurements, yet still make the meter read 7 and 10 when put back in the cal fluid.

Although what people believe to be the proper levels of Ca, Alk, etc, is pretty subjective, this is a handy link for calculating where you want to be and how to get there:

http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html

You put in your info on the left, then click on the graph to the right. The "Current" values show up as a green cross, the "Desired" values show up as a brown cross (you dont have to put Desired values in if you don't want to). The top part of the chart is Ca/Alk. The orange box is the optimum zone (the blue dot is natural seawater). The bottom part of the chart is Mg. Advice about what your readings are and how to fix them is then given in the scrolling box below. If any of your levels are low (of which yours are not), you can choose what type of additive you plan to use to fix it, and click on the "Submit Ca", "Submit Alk" etc. and it will open up a new window showing how much of the additive to use based on the system volume you entered. (btw KH and ALK that you reported are the same thing, just two different methods of measurement, not necessary to report both :))

[steve1600cc]

Ok I'll try that link next,I'm wondering if the Eco Rocks were to much all at once?
Hope I did'nt do a wrong there,ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates believe it or not I have no test for guess I missed the Memo on that one...lol

[David Grigor]

Did you clean the rock at all. How'd you do it ? If you basically just rinse in freshwater or spray it down then yes expect the rock to cycle. Hopefully you don't have any livestock in there. If so, you need to take action.

[steve1600cc]

Ok I need to take action...other then spinning around in my Chair what should I be doing?
Fish only Transfer or??

[David Grigor]

Best to get the rock out and cure it in another container.

You can do a search here on the procedure to clean your rock with muratic acid. Which will eliminates most of the risk.

[steve1600cc]

Ok consensus is to take Rock out and quiock trip to Menards!!
I had about 80 Pounds existing Live Rock already in there does that help any or is possible bad to much to risk?

[David Grigor]

It would likely be fine to add a rock or two at a time to your existing rock but definately not 90lbs uncleaned.

Even cleaned to be cautious, I'd ramp up over the coarse of 3-4 weeks and not add all at once.

[steve1600cc]

Ok that settles it,guess I have some Work ahead of me!!

[mattb]

A couple of additional thoughts...
- did you calibrate with temp correction? It's not a huge deal but will make your readings a tad more accurate.
- measuring nitrite in saltwater is worthless... It doesn't harm anything and assuming some level of bacteria, you probably won't see it.
- measuring pH isn't wholly valuable either. It's going to naturally fluctutate given the amount of ambient co2.... I'm assuming there's an increase in nitrifying bacterial activity as a result of the eco rocks. May be not could be due to ambient co2.

Skim wet and watch things, pull some rock as dg mentioned if you can...