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Discussion in 'Tank Builds' started by Bodegus, Mar 25, 2013.
That's looking very cool... been awhile since I've seen the black sand, loving it!
$300 atm limit might help...
Got an APEX and WP-40. on max it makes a huge wave that almost splashes out of the tank! I keep it on low for noise (overflow splash) control but let it run at high during the day when no one is home. Amazing motion.
I couldn't get the sps polyps to show in the video, they are dancing back and forth!
Wave generator mode I don't think I could do that for more than just a little while for the novelty of it, It's like watching jello jiggle.
I swear i triggered some SPS growth when I put it on full bore, much new white growth. The high burst is also doing a good job removing waste, filter sock fills up after 3 days instead of 4.
Frag swap additions are doing great (minus the gold torch that vaporized overnight such a sad loss) Built my canopy frame and installed my LED drivers. Heat sink and CREEs show up on Monday!
Having a little bit of trouble keeping Ca up. dKa is 10.9 and mg is 1250 but Ca is 310 and falling. I was using buffer before I got my 2 part going, I think that's what put things into a swing. Added kalk to the ato and spiked a bit of CaCl in my daily sun coral feeding water change.
RBTA started to split... moving fast!
My gold torch died as well soon after the swap....
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I lost my whole colony of the gold torch I had..... They don't do well under stress at all.
Got the LEDs today (UPS came super late!) Had just enough time to mount and string them before calling it a night. Going to tune the drivers tomorrow... Maybe I go live Wednesday morning.
This is a fun thread.
How hard is all this arduino business? It interests me, but I'm not sure if I'm technically inclined enough for it. How much more difficult is it than building a PC?
Make sure you put fan on those heatsinks, those could get really hot with that many leds.
There is a decent amount of electronics and programming background to get it to work. If you wants something simple stick with 10v dimming and an apex controller. 80% of the functionality and a lot less work.
Definitely! I have 4 ultra silent 120mm fans ready to roll.
Light program components (Starting point)
1. Light period - Constant 12 hours between 9:30-9:30
2. Light intensity standard sin function (12 hour = pi light period)
3. Atmosphere absorption - Negligible and ignored (.001 absorption of visible and 400 nm UV light)
4. Sun intensity 400 nm UV is 50% the intensity of the true visible spectrum. Compensating by coincidence in that UV run at 700 nm and RB/CW run at 1500 ma.
5. Tide height variance (http://www.tide-forecast.com/locations/Sydney-Australia/tides/latest)
3'6" variance in tide height would decrease white intensity. I feel that consistency in a 24 cycle is important but may try to sync it to the moon in the future. Strictly by math, low tide (6' depth) white would have 50% blue intensity at high tide white would have 0% of blue intensity (5% or below is rounded down). This would give almost 2 hours on either end of blue only view and a sin^2 effect for white intensity.
That's hardcore man. If you're looking for the most realism, Indonesia is where a lot of our stuff comes from. (rather than sydney)
I wired everything up, turned it on... and slapped myself. Everything was good to go and I realize that Mean Well need a 10V not 5v PWM signal. I SWORE I read they took 10v analog or 5v PWM but no it's 10v.
I needed to build a fan controller anyways and am going to tap into the that power supply to driver a 10v PWM from my arduino using transistors.
I did some PAR testing with lenses. 2x PAR increase at 18" 3x at 26" and 4x at 36" using 80 degree lenses!
LEDs are done and AMAZING, I will throw some pics up later. Next come the cabinet doors.
Somethings I would do differently.
1. Lenses are a waste! They create way to much of a hot zone in the middle I was putting out 1000 par in the center of my tank and 100 at the edges (80 degree optics). I took them all off except the front row.
2. I simplified the programming for round 1. Way easier to adjust intensity and measure par with symmetrical intensity curves.
3. 10 LEDs per string! RapidLED posts that you can run 8, I couldn't get 8 to turn on (wouldn't reach minimum voltage) I can with 9 on each, running 10 allows you to bypass an LED for easy current measurements. I killed my 8 normal blue string... TWICE.... (one was a bad LED that killed the string, the other was a goof on my part). A longer string would have survived because it would have caught on the drivers current/voltage protection.
Have you thought about putting 60 degree optics on the outsides of the fixture to get the higher par?
And I think you just solved my led problem! I have 4 uv leds on a 700ma driver and have burned out 2 strings of 4 in the past 4 months. Maybe what you explained could be my problem as well.
I have 80 degree optics on the front row, leaving them there mostly to prevent light bleed as the par is more than high enough (still get 800 in the top 1/3 at 100%)
The reds don't seem to pop as much as I would like.
Almost everything is acclimating well. I am having a bit of issue with birdnests bleaching but my other SPS are showing nice improvements. Almost all my zoa colonies look great, except my swamp fire zoas which have started melting away.
Par for the zoas is down a bit, but I hope this weekends increase (5%) will yield improvements. The other zoas and softies are doing very well. I might keep the SPS side at the current level for another week if the birdnest continue to bleach.
After a complete fish die off (velvet) and 75% water change the tank is a little low on nutrients which could have impacted them as well.