75G - Hardcore DIY

Discussion in 'Tank Builds' started by Bodegus, Mar 25, 2013.

  1. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Some of my green coral (GSP, Green slimer, green zoas) are starting to lose color but everything else is doing great. I think I have too much UV (as much as cool white or RB) and will be swapping a few for normal blue this week!

    Besides that great growth. My green slimmer has a "kink" in it from fast growth towards the new light, and a lot of the polyps bases are "stretched" I'll take a few pics tonight.

    Par is only 300 (about 50-100 below my MH) PO4 and nutrients are all at zero, Alk (10.6) calc (474) mg (1300)
     
    #41 Bodegus, Jan 20, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  2. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Still trying to get the light "just right" birdnests are bleaching, acro is loving it and green slimer is browning! [​IMG]

    I built an arduino shield to replace my breadboard. Just need to crimp ethernet plugs onto my driver wires.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Had a 3 week honeymoon in the mix, but my light controller is done and I am very happy with it! 8 PWM channels! Time to build some cabinet wall/doors and mount inside.

    [​IMG]
     
    #43 Bodegus, Mar 3, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2014
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    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    4 month update!

    [​IMG]

    I have most of the corals I want (minus a few choice SPS pieces) but don't plan on adding anything until I can establish the growth I want.

    The canopy frame has panels that snap on with magnets, makes tank maintenance a breeze! I used pocket screws to assemble the panels but the routing on the panels is too delicate and after 2 months of humidity they have started to crack.

    I have learned a lot of things going pure DIY.

    LED DIY - I have spent way more than I would have going with a good retail option. Between replacing a strand of LEDs that I burnt out and 3 Meanwell drivers that failed due to humidity I have tons of regrets. I'll keep this DIY setup will go to a future frag tank and my display will use something nice. I am switching to a DC-DC system instead of buying more meanwells (I used up my 2 spares)

    Some LED DIY tips. - I like the color blending by not using lenses but I noticed a lot of PAR inconsistencies, it really drops out along the edges and depth. I am rebuilding my canopy to drop the fixtures down 4" and am adding lenses to the big channels (royal blue and cool whites) the warm colors will stay without lenses and I feel they play a big role in getting good color pop from fish and corals.

    Lime versus green - I bought some lime LEDs to replace greens on one of my warm channels, I will report back.

    WP-40 - Going with 1 big pump instead of 2 smaller ones was a mistake. In an open tank with artificial looking structures it might work, but not with my bulk rock work. I added a korlia to help cover some dead spots, but I dislike how the sand bed is pushed around by huge flow required from a single point. The Jeboa WP40 works if clean, but loses 50-70% of it's flow if dirty, the drive shaft does not operate smoothly with the smallest amount of film.

    Fuge - I run my fuge from 3:00 am-6:00 pm (kicks on 6 hours before lights go on and stays on while lights are high). I did a lot of testing and found that 15 hours of high intensity red/blue LEDs grows the most algae in my system. I pull out 2 handfuls of cheato every 5 days. I have also noticed the best "glass dusting" results by running the fuge 6 hours before the lights turn on, and the entire time the lights are on above 50% I think it is out competing the display for PO4 and nitrates optimally.
     
  5. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    It's refreshing to hear post that aren't all rosey and perfect. While I don't have any electronics background and my soldering skills are less than desired, I too had problems with DIY Led. Everything went great in the wintertime but once summer/spring hit and humidity levels got alot higher, Condensation on my heatsinks etc. caused shorts and nothing but problems. I ended up going to a aquabreeder photon 48". Can't dial in the exact color I want anymore with just 2 channels and some of the lower light sprectrum are on same channels as the days which makes it really hard to achieve colors I want but overall I probably should have done that from the start. Eventually will swap some of the LEDs out on the photon but will wait a while and see how the corals react before I mod it. Will reuse the Heatsinks and such ona future ATS so not much $ wasted on my end.
     
    #45 David Grigor, Jul 18, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014
  6. marty9876

    marty9876 Something funny
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    DIY LED- thanks for giving me some pause there, I was thinking of building a big ATS which would be LED driven. Burning out the drivers doesn't sound like fun.

    WP-40: One idea I've had is there was a Tunze mod folks were doing where they cut out every other row of the plastic cover for the shroud to increase flow. I've wondered if that might help stabilize flow for the long term.
     
  7. Pumbooris

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    Im interested In hearing about the lime leds. I ordered some as well and read that they should be on a separate channel so id like to hear how it goes mixed in with other colors
     
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    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    I build the drivers into the canopy, the new dc-dc system will be in a separate cabinet with the rest of the electronics. The PWM dimming versions at full 1300 ma I use might also cause a few more problems than the analog dimming set. The constant current 700 I use for the UV channels have none of the interior browning the dimming ones have. I have a manual 700 ma dimming unit for the fuge in the sump cabinet and it's in tip top shape even with tons of slashing salt creep. All 3 that went out where blue channels at 100% 1300ma.
    For an ATS it might be easier and cheaper but I would definitely keep spares of everything!

    Regarding limes I currently have a 1300ma warm white and 700 ma red/green channels. I will start by putting them on the 700 ma channel and going from there (I cap the 2 out at 600/500 currently so I doubt I need to go to the full 1000 they can handle.
     
    #48 Bodegus, Jul 18, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014
  9. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    I built my DC-DC system and replaced my canopy. I am verry happy with version 2.0!

    WAY WAY WAY cleaner (The blue tape on cable ends in the new one will get removed once it's finalized)

    OLD
    [​IMG]

    NEW
    [​IMG]
     
  10. mapierce7

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    Did you end up putting any lenses back on? If so what was the par effect? I have a diy and I was thinking about 80* on just the royal blues but I should probably get my hands on a par meter instead of toasting a bunch of sticks.
     
  11. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    REBOOT. In preparation for my 120g build I am getting this tank up and running to re purpose as an un-medicated QT system. Tank is cycling, getting ready for the sprint frag swap!
     
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  12. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    2 weeks of cycling. It was a pain getting DIY LEDs up and running but all things are good!



    [​IMG]
     
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  13. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Pukani really does leech phosphates!

    Even with a thorough bleach soak, 2 weeks of curing, and a 100% water change 10 days later PO4 is at 350+ppb (Nitrates at zero). I picked up some biodigest/bioptim from SaltH20 and will track PO4 daily to see what the trend is (I have a bunch of 6/2017 expired Hanna reagent to use up anyways).

    I added some fish pellets to the filter sock as a nitrate source. Day 1 - Pellets win!

    Day 0 - 371 ppb
    Day 1 - 524 ppb
     
  14. RSnodgrass

    RSnodgrass TCMAS President
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    How sensitive is the expiration on those test kits? I can't imagine enough to throw off your number by that magnitude but curious non the less.
     
  15. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    I have a fresh box in my cart next time I order from BRS, I'll give it a go and compare a couple test runs. Right now I am only interested in the change day over day.

    Adding 5-10 pellets a day into the filter sock (no sock changes). Biodigest/Bioptim have a 15 day dosing cycle. Trending in the right direction. (I never got above 100 ppb with my tank surprising how blue the hanna solution get's)

    Day 0 - 371 ppb
    Day 1 - 524 ppb
    Day 2 - 484 ppb
    Day 3 - 432 ppb
     
    #55 Bodegus, Jan 24, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2018
  16. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Well... not sure what to say but I don't see any PO4 impact with biodigest.

    Day 0 - 371 ppb
    Day 1 - 524 ppb
    Day 2 - 484 ppb
    Day 3 - 432 ppb
    Day 4 - 451ppb
    Day 5 - 472 ppb
    Day 6 - 497 ppb
    Day 7 - 478 ppb
     
  17. irish02bk

    irish02bk Senior Member
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    i had pukani leach for over a year.... awesome rock but i ended up taking it down because i always had phosphate issues...
     
  18. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Still at 450 ppb PO4. Going to do a 100% water change next weekend and get the tank into it's final spot. Takes for ever to make that much water, I only get about 40 gallons/day :/.
     

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