Bryopsis

Discussion in 'Advanced Topics' started by rlinusc, Sep 29, 2015.

  1. rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    So i have started to notice some bryopsis in my new tank. It is just the start- but i know that this will likely accelerate and quickly.

    So a couple of questions-

    What have been people's experience with this? Do they primarily rely on grazers (lettuce nudis or other herbivores) and if so, which ones and how successful?

    OR do they rely on controlling water chemistry? I.e. GFO (which doesn't sound successful), phosphate control- also seems to have mixed results, or Kent TechM (raising Mg to 1400+ )which sounds successful but may kill off snails.


    It has already shown up on places where i cannot dip Hy peroxide.
     
  2. Nezw0001

    Nezw0001 I contributed!
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    I am also battling bryposis. My infestation started out small too. I have tried Mg at 2200 for weeks on end. This slowed down the bryposis but didn't stop it and ended up killing some inverts, a gonipora and a clam. I also tried the slightly increased salinity to no effect. All sorts of herbivores including a dolliatus rabbitfish, tangs, blennies, sea hare, etc. Recently added GFO, totally cleaned all detritus out of sump, increased filter sock changes, dosing LC and will be adding a ATS. I am at my wits end and contemplating tearing the tank down. Many of my corals of browned out and I have no parameter out of whack. it is the most frustrating problem I have ever encountered.

    My advice is to hit is hard now, before it reaches epic proportions. Drive Mg up to 1800 ish - be careful as it may impact salinity readings. I'd throw everything at it sooner than later. I wish I had been more aggressive right away.
     
  3. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    did you use the Kent Tech M? reports seem to say that is the only product that seems to work


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. Nezw0001

    Nezw0001 I contributed!
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    I wasted time with BRS Mg and it didn't even piss it off. The Kent M at least slowed it down. Went through 4 gallon jugs!
     
  5. ArstenA

    ArstenA I contributed!
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    Hi all, I have been through this too. I stared to sell all my fish so that I could tear down and start over.

    Before tearing down I decided to try one last thing... ATS. I built one and within 5 weeks my issues were gone!

    See my ATS in my 75 build thread. Last few pages. It is a miracle. I have since added a ton of fish and I have no signs of algae.

    If you run an ATS, you will need to dose iron. Otherwise you will not have much growth to harvest. This is key.

    My ATS is quite large. But I cut enough acrylic for a second unit. I have not assembled it, but I have been thinking about selling the box. Lights would still need to be purchased for ~$230 via ebay. Also some plumbing.
     
    #5 ArstenA, Sep 29, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015
  6. cypho

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    light + water + fertilizer = algae

    In my experience the equation, this is LAW. Even if you find something that eats or kills your current nemesis, something else just take it's place. You have 2 choices, remove one of key ingredients, or figure out how to be happy with some sort of algae.

    Removing light and/or water is easy in theory, but for most people on these forums is surprisingly difficult. :brick: Removing the fertilizer is possible but it will be a constant battle. :2gunsfiring:


    I have found it is a lot easier to accept that algae is essential part of the reef. It is a lot easier to encourage "good" algae than it is to fight "bad" algae. Instead of focusing on killing the bryopsis, focus on how you can grow the healthiest crop of whatever sort of algae is least objectionable (such as an ATS, refugium, decorative algae, or something your fish like eating)..
     
    #6 cypho, Sep 29, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2015
  7. MAXreefer

    MAXreefer Administrator
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    I have had this in an older tank and got rid of it by bumping Mag to 1600 with Kent Tech M. From what I have been reading it seems it has something in it that kills the Bryopsis. It is just not the Mag addition as I tried several other brands and they didn't work.
     
  8. OP
    rlinusc

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    I am running my L2 ats but haven't had enough growth yet for harvest yet. How are you dosing iron?


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  9. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    You can try to eliminate it but will always be in a constant battle because it's nearly impossible to quarantine everything and eliminate at somepoint getting some aptasia, planaria, bubble algae, byrposis, pest that we may not even know about yet. So you need to make your tank as flexable and modular as possible. Ideally there shouldn't be any rock or coral that you can't remove to treat. So me personally, I'd look to improve the setup to do so. It will pay huge dividends in the future.

    Overally nutrients control is the key for me, when I feed too much ( compared to many others though I still feed alot ) and the ATS is starting to fall behind, I have a couple areas where byropis will pop up. Cut back on the food a bit, ats gets things back inline and the byropsis will fall apart. For me, it's a good metric so I don't necessarily need to eliminate. But to do that obviosly you need the hardware or methods to control your nutrient levels adequately. An L2 on your sized tank is likely more of a supplement and may not be able to pull out excess levels on it's own.

    Dosing Iron, iron gets added to the tank via nori that your feed your fish and many other foods and even some supplements. Until your really aggressively growing algae adding iron is likely to cause more problems by fueling the algae in the show tank. But to answer the question, get some fergon iron pills ( Sometimes hard to find locally, I just add to a amazon order ). Don't get walgreen or cvs house brand, you want fergon. 1 pill dissolved in 50ml of rodi water. don't dispense the undissolved at the bottom, only the liquid part. How much will be trial and error but likely your talking about just a drop or two initiially once ATS is mature and getting nice sized harvests you can add more as it gets consumed quickly and really hard to overdose becuase of that.
     
    #9 David Grigor, Sep 30, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2015
  10. OP
    rlinusc

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    Yeah.. right now i am kicking myself a bit for not getting an L3 or L4 ATS module.
     
  11. capman

    capman I contributed!
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    Some years ago (maybe 10 or 15 years now) I had a student doing a research project quantifying nutrient inputs and exports in our ATS-filtered reef system.

    There was one initially surprising outcome - more iron was being removed from the system in the algal biomass than what was being added in the foods we were feeding. As I recall, the difference was fairly substantial.

    At first we figured that maybe we had had some problems with our methodology or something. But then I discovered that the impeller magnet for one of the main pumps had gotten worn and was super rusty - the whole interior of the pump was full of rust. The algae in the ATS were responding to this and keeping iron levels from going sky high in the system.
     
  12. Dalailammy

    Dalailammy Amphipod First Class
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    You sure it is bryopsis.
     
  13. OP
    rlinusc

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    It looks pretty much like the classic view of bryposis with fern like branches
     
  14. ArstenA

    ArstenA I contributed!
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    With my ATS I haven't found a point where I have added too much iron. If I don't supplement iron I hardly get any growth in the ATS.
    But if I forget to dose it one week and then dose the next, the harvest is about 130% of the normal.
    Eitherway, I have added probably 15 more fish, doubled my feeding and haven't seen a sign of algae. (Knock on wood).
     
  15. capman

    capman I contributed!
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    Just curious: Are you doing anything else in addition to the ATS to control phosphates? Things like GFO, lanthium chloride?

    When my ATS system was running really well years ago I never did anything more than maintain the ATS (and I never even checked phosphate or nitrate levels - they were both undetectable during the peak of my hair algae problems prior to the ATS, and once the system was running well with the ATS it never seemed like something worth worrying about). I know David has talked about using lanthium chloride along with his ATS though.

    (Incidentally, I used to dose a product called Biotrace, which I think had a lot of iron in it.)
     
    #15 capman, Oct 1, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2015
  16. ArstenA

    ArstenA I contributed!
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    I am not doing anything but the ATS.
    I have only done one water change since it has been online, and that was to try and reduce parasites.
    I have just started to use a little carbon because I think I was seeing impact on the LPS like David.
     
  17. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    I did have phosphate levels creep before I realized I was just feeding too much for the ATS to keep up. Once I found the right balance, only use Carbon. No water changes or GFO needed to control phosphate levels. I haven't tested in a while but last test was .03ppm. Anything below .08 and I don't have algae issues in the show tank. Whatever small amounts the fish or urchin keep under control, no visable aglae. However some algae does grow where there are zero predators such as the sump/frag and 29g hooked up to same system with no fish or urchins in it do get some algae but I really don't care about it.
     
    #17 David Grigor, Oct 1, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2015
  18. capman

    capman I contributed!
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    Years ago (like, 15 or 20 years ago) lots of people (including Delbeek and Sprung in their otherwise wonderful first book) really doubted that algal turf scrubbers could work for reef systems, particularly for SPS systems (there were lots of harsh things said about algal turf scrubbers on the old Reefkeepers listserve, for example). Inland Aquatics was proving them wrong, as were other systems (including ours at Augsburg, where I used to have amazingly good growth of SPS corals, and other corals too), though it really took a long time for many people to come around. I'm still sort of amazed that algal turf scrubbers are now becoming mainstream and more widely accepted.

    The one valid criticism of the ATS approach, in my opinion, was that an ATS tends to yellow the water. I'm not sure that was necessarily a problem other than appearance, but it was easily dealt with by using carbon.
     
    #18 capman, Oct 2, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2015
  19. Vergilius

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    In regards to treating bryopsis that "rlinusc" & "Nezw0001" originally inquired about:

    -Do a search of the TCMAS forums for "fluconazole".
    -Do a Google search for "byropsis fluconazole"

    Lots of information/videos out there on using it to treat bryopsis and hair algae.

    Typically treated with a single dose of 20mg fluconazole/gallon for a 14 day period. The fluconazole can be purchased through payless-petproducts.com, who are out of St. Cloud.
     
  20. Adam G

    Adam G Born to Reef!
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    I did the fluconazole treatment and it wiped out my bryopsis entirely in 2 weeks and I had a pretty good infestation going. I read for countless hours on threads on other reef forums before dosing. I lost one serpent star during treatment and I am not convinced it had anything to do with the fluconazole treatment. All shrimps, crabs, snails, SPS, LPS, softies, everything showed no signs of any stress what so ever.

    The treatment was done 2 months ago and still not a single stalk of bryopsis. It even kills,off the roots that imbed in the rock and make this stuff impossible to manually remove.

    Research thoroughly though. This is a relatively new treatment so it has not been proven long term that there are no side affects say a year later. Apparently they have been using this treatment in aquariums in Europe for a couple of years with great success and no side affects.

    Please research and make up your own mind before dosing. It worked for me but I always caution folks to use at your own risk and do not take my word for it.
     

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