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Discussion in 'DIY Forums' started by RSnodgrass, Jan 13, 2018.
i have been out done.
what search terms did you use? I spent more than 5 minutes looking for one.
They just keep getting better lol!
My wide is picking up some hot pink cording that I might try cutting into tiny pieces, otherwise there is glitter, and I did add this valve which works for the most part.
Here was my attempt at fluorescent fibers.
They dissolved and stuck to the pump intake like filter floss... just highly visible.
Here is what seems like my best material...
Red, orange, and white pvc shavings. Highly visible and at the moment don't seem to impede flow.
Plastics in our oceans is a bad thing; not something to emulate!
Here are my random thoughts:
Instead of trying to glue them together you can drill holes and pin them on with stainless or acrylic rod. Maybe old impeller shafts?
If using a drill press you should avoid putting a side load on the bit when machining out the holes. Almost all of them use a tapered shaft to hold in the chuck. Side loads will cause the chuck to wobble loose and go flying across the room.
Should you choose to ignore above advise, harbor freight sells a cross slide vise which, while a bit sloppy for precise machining will save your fingers from getting caught by a spinning drill bit.
I wondered why the beads were so expensive. My searching for microbeads led to the fact that they are federally outlawed starting last year. They are in cosmetics and end up in the waterways. I have a feeling that had you done this pre-2015 the choices of very small plastic beads would have been much greater.
Possible alternatives might be:
-embroidery or jewelry beads
-weighted poly- fill beads used for various craft stuffing (remember beanie babies?)
- chopped up monofiliment fishing line in regular or flourocarbon. Some float, some sink, comes in several colors, some glow under black light, available in sizes up 400# (about 1/8")
-abrasives used in the bead blasting or cosmetics industries. Materials used include plastic, glass, crushed nut shells(short lifespan in water but you only need them for a short time anyway), etc.
Just for fun you might want to look up "suction dredge nozzles" . I built one last year for a project and found a wealth of information on the internet regarding venturi sizing and the physics behind these devices. Your post here had me wondering if there was a use for 1"-2" non-clogging suction devices in our aquariums. They really move a lot of water.
Thanks for sharing, I like the idea of cutting up florescent fly fishing line. If it sinks then I just have to add enough salt to make it about neutral.
If you are still trying to glue it Google:
"acetal copolymer bonding" and there are some specialty bonding agents you can use. However I have no idea if any of them are Reef safe.
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Well I was trying my test and I'll see if I can clean up the film a little because it's tough to see all the flow front to back... but in a nutshell here are the results.
Every eductor easily moved more water over a larger width and was quite visible, this corresponds with what I've seen in my own tank. They all moved more on the far end of the tank and especially directly underneath at the bottom of the tank.
WHICH IS BEST:
As for which was better it was nearly impossible to tell. I'm told that the higher the power the pump the larger the difference so testing in a 40 breeder may not be the best comparison.
The two primary retail eductors on a 40 are virtually the same except of course the random flow is a much smaller profile and throws current all over. As a trade off the standard eductor would certainly push water over longer distances since the direction of flow doesn't change.
The homemade eductors on a 40 worked very well. I doubt they would work as well as a retail versions on a large tank but still better then nothing at all and dirt cheap. If you need 8 like I did that's a significant cost savings.
The industrial eductor lent to me by @Riley was entirely too powerful for the 40 using all the same parameters. I was able to bump up my pump speed levels on all other versions but that one. If I did it would blow water out of the tank, it was crazy... messy.
My final conclusion is I'm very happy with my random flow eductors but on a six foot tank with 8 outputs (4 to a side) I'd do one thing differently.
I already removed the eductors off 2 of the 8 outlets (one each side) which helps generate a nice complete cross current in the tank along with the random flow. I'd now consider putting a 1/2" mod or standard 1/2" eductor in place of my current 3/4" outlet. This would force more water through my random eductors while still generating notably cross current. Option 2 is I clip the fins out of a random flow eductor so they all look the same.
I'll be posting various parts in the classifieds for anyone interested. Message me on that thread.
Update: my VCA 3D printed eductors are still holding up and going strong. I was curious if they'd break down and deteriorate, but they haven't.
I did have the opportunity to see them installed on a friend's tank and the results were different but I think I know why.
Scientifically these things work and there's no denying it, however to see the biggest benefit it's nice to have a pump that's not already maxed out. That way you can increase the flow percentage a couple points in order to offset the back pressure on the pump. The result is the same sump turn over but higher tank turn over.
The random flow also seems to be a continued benefit however it's less obvious how to point the heads to move water efficiently in the whole tank so playing around with the angles is important.
Still no clogging issues.