Ich

Discussion in 'Young reefing forum' started by KatieG, Mar 20, 2013.

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  1. KatieG

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    Ok so I got this tomini tang 3 weeks ago and I've noticed my fish have been itching and having white spots. So I have a tomini tang, 2 percula clowns, tailspot blenny, golden headed sleeper goby and a melanarus wrasse. The tang has a few white spots on his fins and the wrasse is itching. A week ago the sandsifter had tons of white spots so I started dosing with Ich X for about two weeks and he looks so much better. Now? The tang is showing the signs he did and so I strarted dosing again with ich x but I noticed my corals were being stressed. So I moved them to my friends tank were he is holding them till I get this under control. I'd there a more effective way to get ich off my fish then to use ich x? This is in my display tank and I'm not using copper for shure:/ or should I just keep dosing for a while?
     
  2. kheebl

    kheebl Super Moderator
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    I would set up a 20L QT Tank and use copper, they can be setup very cheap. I had Ich on my blue tang and the copper cured it quickly.
     
  3. Myclang

    Myclang BOOM BOOM

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    I agree with Kheebl. I'm not to keen on treating with any chemicals with corals in the display. Not ever coral is made equally nor, reacts. Best to setup a QT tank.
     
  4. SaltH2O

    SaltH2O TCMAS Member
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  5. Kyle T.

    Kyle T. Big Footed Ginger!
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    The "reef safe" chemicals you add to "treat" ich are useless. They don't kill the ich parasite, and so far there has not been any method of treating ich that is reef safe. If you want to get rid of ich you have three options, all of which involve setting up a hospital tank and cannot be performed in the DT. Also, the DT has to be left fishless for a minimum of 8 weeks to let the ich in the tank starve without a host.

    Your first option is to set up a small hospital tank (with your fish I'd suggest a 20 long to 40 breeder, the latter being better). After the tank is set up dose with copper (I highly recommend Cupramine), but be sure to dose slowly up to the dose recommended. Keep the copper at the levels stated by the instructions for 4 weeks then observe the fish for an additional 4 weeks. Just a note, don't add any ammonia neutralizers when dosing copper as it amplifies the effects of the copper and will kill the fish.

    Another option is to set up a small hospital tank (same size as before) and lower the salinity to 1.009 over the course of two days. Keep the salinity stable at this level for four weeks after you see the last cyst (white spot) fall off your fish. Keep the salinity at this level as swings favor the parasite to live. After the 4 weeks have past, you should begin to bring levels SLOWLY back up to the level you keep your display at. Higher salinity means lower levels of dissolved O2. Be sure to again observe the fish for a few weeks more.

    Your final option is to use the tank transfer method. This is a good read on this method as it is a bit more complex than the other two methods.

    If you don't want to get rid of ich, you could do as other have suggested in the link and just let it blow over. Just remember that means ich is still within your tank, and could potentially become a problem in the future. Sometimes it doesn't blow over... I tried this method, bumped up feedings, low stress, etc. and lost all of the fish in the tank at that time, hence why I'm not going to advise that you do this and look at the other three options you have to actually treat/cure ich.
     
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  6. BadOmen

    BadOmen Senior Member

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    If your Tang is acting normal then it might not even have ich. I have a healthy Yellow Tang that occasionally I see white-spots on its fin but it hasn't infected any of my fish and all of them are healthy and happy.
     
  7. data_loss

    data_loss where's the rum?
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    I understand there are different views on how to best handle ich, one to live with it, and one to eliminate it, but that doesn't mean that misinformation should be given, and multiple views or not there can still be misinformation.

    If there was ich in the tank, and none of the methods Kyle described to eliminate ich from the tank were used, then the tank, and ALL of the fish in it ARE infected with ich. Just because you do not see white spots doesn't mean the the fish isn't infected.
     

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