As I am getting close to upgrading from my Fluval M60 build to the new 32gal rimless build, I thought it would be a good time to start a new build thread. I've been wanting (and waiting) for quite some time to upgrade the AIO tank to a system that incorporated a sump and better filtration equipment and options. The AIO systems work very well, but they definitely have their limitations when it comes to filtration. Since I like to keep my systems well stocked, I exceeded the boundaries of the AIO tank. I wanted to stay with a tank that had similar footprint to the Fluval so I could reuse the stand, lighting and some of the other equipment. When Li placed his Reef Octopus T60 in the classifieds, I started stalking the post and waited until I was able to purchase it. This is one monster of a small tank; no wonder Li thought about keeping it. It's a heavy, solid tank built from ⅜" thick beveled glass with a low iron front panel. The T60 is 24"L by 18"W by 18"H. This will almost double the display volume from the Fluval while keeping a similar footprint; thus fitting perfectly on my existing stand. I do have some projects to complete on the tank before setting it up. I'll be "blackening" the back panel and drilling holes for a low profile overflow box and return line. I'll also be making one of my low profile screen tops to keep the small fishes inside. One of the first projects was to paint the back of the tank. I wanted to try something different than just a solid black background; which I have usually done. I experimented with a few different paint colors and a ragging technique to create a mottled background of blues and black. After several attempts on some scrap pieces of glass, I found that I really liked this look. But it turned out that when viewing the glass through water, the colors and patterns faded into an all black appearance; so my next test samples just used a single color of blue. I really dislike the bright blue that is associated with acrylic tanks, so I went for a darker shade of blue. I discovered that when the dark blue background is viewed against a reef tank, that the upper level looks almost black but the reflection of light of off the white sand makes the blue color pop. So after many pieces of glass and a few cans of spray paint, I was able to get a color gradient using just the dark blue painted background. Painting the tank was easy. I masked off all of the other sides and painted the back of the tank outdoors. It looks bright blue in the sun, but the color darkens up nicely indoors. The next step was drilling the tank for my new overflow and return plumbing. I chose the Modular Marine 1200pgh Low-Profile Overflow System. Low profile, for sure. The interior overflow box measures just over one inch thick. The exterior box has three drain lines for a Bean Animal or Herbie drain system. Another nice feature of the overflow system is that the interior box is removable for cleaning. It's fitted into two bulkheads that connect the exterior box to the tank. To remove the interior box, I simply pull the box out of the bulkheads. The next project was to design and create a sump that maximizes the small space inside of my stand. It's not easy trying to fit in a BeanAnimal Drain, two filter socks, heater, protein skimmer, dosing lines, probe holder and a return pump and plumbing into a single sump that can be no larger than 13" by 15". After using various other sumps as inspiration [Thanks for the info, Eric!], I think I found a way to incorporate all of my wants into a small sump. I will have to keep my ATO reservoir outside of the stand as there's no room for one. I even dabbled with the idea of trying to install an ATS on the system, but that's a definite no-go also. The sump will be constructed from 10 pieces; machined from clear polycarbonate on the CNC router. I'll use the clear polycarbonate as it's what I have available. I would like to be one of the cool kids and have a colored sump and plumbing system, but I prefer having the black pvc plumbing outside of my stand anyways, so adding another color would seem overkill. Here's how I design my projects; 1:1 drawings. I spent a good part of an afternoon drawing up the pieces in my CAD software for the CNC router. Once all of the pieces were drawn and tool paths created, it all came down to one push of a button and I watched the router do its magic. Here's the stack of pieces ready to be assembled. Having the use of a CNC router is extremely beneficial; I'm able to add rabbets and dadoes to the panels of material so that the joints are accurate and very strong. After I dressed the pieces of any burs and tags, I assembled the sump with a dry-fit just to verify everything was correct. And since my plumbing supplies have been arriving this past week, I dry-fit the bulkheads (and just one filter sock) to see how it looks. Now, I just have to figure out how I'm going to glue this sump together. There are just a few locations where getting a bottle of solvent inside the sump could be tricky. As long as I make sure all of the exterior seams are well bonded and hold water, I shouldn't worry about it too much. My next steps (after the sump assembly) will be to move the Fluval off of the existing stand so I can open up the back for the plumbing. Once the stand is ready, I can start cutting and fitting a bunch of pipe and fittings.