Managing a Pico crash with another Pico

Discussion in 'Nano and Pico reef systems' started by Bodegus, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    I bought this setup yesterday (http://www.tcmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=48853) Sadly the tank cooked at 95 degrees for 2 day before I got it and things didn't look to good.

    The hammerhead/plated coral no longer exist...

    I moved the fish and the anem to my 4g pico. The nem is still puking up semi digested coral flesh, it looked rough yesterday (like someone squirted atapsia-x on it) but I am a bit more hopeful today. I'm using a small pipette to blow water on it to help push away the nasty. The fish seem to be doing OK, but the shrimp wont move from its spot. Cardinal wont eat yet.

    I am trying to nurse the zoas/palps in the original tank. I scrubbed hard on everything and siphoned out as much organics as possible. One head... out of several hundred has opened. 20 or so have disintegrated. As long as they are closed tight should I assume they have a chance to pull through?

    I'm doing a 10% water change every couple hours. Over night both tanks climbed to .25-.45 ppm ammonia (nitrates/ites = 0). Running to pick up some ammonia lock and will keep changing water. I doubt more than half the zoas can pull through and am waiting to see how they do today with the intention of fragging off what looks savable.

    Any thoughts on when to cut my losses?
     
  2. Jace

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    I think your doing a good job, personally I wouldn't add any chemicals like amonia lock, and I'd keep up with the water changes.
     
  3. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    My 4g pico has stabilized, I put in a zoa rock that looked like it might make it and ammonia has stayed <.25 ppm (darn close to zero) for 24 hours. Crabs seem to have picked through anything dead. The cardinal is also eating and the nem has gotten plump and looks healthy.

    The 8g I was using to nurse the majority of the zoas is sitting near 1 ppm ammonia no matter how many 25% water changes I do. I fragged what looked savable (20 or so heads from various colonies) and scrubbed the rest of the organic matter off all the rocks. Planning 3 25% water changes this evening to flush out any nutrients.

    40 gallons of salt water later I've saved what I could... Interesting adventure when all I wanted was to stock my little pico :D.
     
    #3 Bodegus, Dec 28, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2012
  4. Jace

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    Pico's are fun but they are a lot of work, I had a 4 gallon LED pico up and running and I thought it looked amazing but even small things like evaporation have detrimental effects on pico's so you always need to have a close eye on them
     
  5. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    I had to ditch most of the zoas, to many dead heads in the colonies to save, a pico is not the place to try to nurse something back to life...

    And... it's... stable! (60 gallons of salt water later). Ammonia stayed below .25 ppm after 24 hours.
     
  6. OP
    Bodegus

    Bodegus I contributed!
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    Ammonia/Nitrates/Nitrites have been zero on a regular 12% water change twice a week. I added Kent Marine nano reef supplement on the 2nd, and have it mixed with the replacement salt water.

    The green palyps and anemone are as brilliant as ever, . There is a single red zoa and 2-3 green zoas that have their original brilliant neon color (especially in the tentacles) but the rest of the colonies have browned quite a bit. They are under the same light they use to be under and water conditions are optimal.

    The only difference is that I run the tank at 75C instead of 80C and I decreased white light period from 12 to 8 hours. Could the crash lead to browning 2 weeks later? I've upped the light back to 12 hours.
     
    #6 Bodegus, Jan 9, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2013

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