Phosphates

Discussion in 'Young reefing forum' started by Mandarinman, Feb 19, 2015.

  1. Mandarinman

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    I have a brown encrusting algae that I believe is phosphate algae because of my .25 level. Does anybody have any tips on removal of phosphates. I have a 36 gallon no sump bowfront. Would a sump and or phosphate reactor help. Thanks for the help,
     
  2. BlacknBlue2

    BlacknBlue2 I contributed!
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    A GFO Reactor would do the trick
     
  3. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    Phosphates ( and nitrates since you mention you have algae issues ) are a challenge for everybody. There are so many methods available that you need to do the research to figure out which one is right for your budget and for the maintenance schedule. Some require more hands on than others and equipment cost is more for others so that is something you will have to decide for yourself.

    Some examples to look into: all types of carbon dosing ( sugar, vodka, vitamin-c ), Lacl3, GFO, biopellet reactors, Kalkwasser is said to help bind phosphates, Algae Scrubbers, refugiums. List probably goes on that's just off the top of my head.

    Important though not to reduce too much too fast as that will have a negative effect on corals. Corals that are used to it may starve without it so best to reduce slowly.
     
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  4. NotJacques

    NotJacques Senior Member
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    Here are some ideas I posted in another thread. Recycling day! Also Dave mentioned, a rapid reduction seems to hurt corals, for me it's been LPS.

    Lastly, you might already have one, but a Hanna Phosphate checker is very handy if you can swing it.



    There are several ways to battle phosphates, which I am all too familiar with:
    Water changes
    Skimmer
    Add macro algae
    Regular vacuuming of sand and blasting nutrients off rocks, increased flow in general
    Reduce feeding
    Use/rotate filter socks
    Use an additive like Red Sea PO/NOx to bind
    Good luck amigo!
     
  5. OP
    Mandarinman

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    I am considering making a sump with an area for micro algae and a spot for my skimmer and more (I am currently not using it because of the massive amounts of micro bubbles it puts out) I am also adding a phosphate reactor. Would this do the trick?
     
  6. Jager

    Jager TCMAS Event Committee
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    Just throwing this out there for general knowledge, just in case

    I have phosphate issues right now, and i have little to no bio load in the tank... why do i have phosphate issues you might ask? Well i have been asking that same thing, until i realized something... my brown slime algae got worse after a water change. Logic points to the water change actually feeding the algae then right? That is my thought anyway. So i did some thinking about how old my membrane was, and if it had ever gone dry..... i wont answer either question but lets just say i smacked my forehead and i have a membrane on my to get list.

    some times its the little things we dont think about and just take for granted that screw us, and/or literally blind side us.

    I have actually been feeding phosphates and silica to my tank because my "clean" ro/di water was tarnished. Granted i do not have a phosphate test kit, i will be getting one with the membrane, but its logical that my membrane is exhausted and no longer removing silicas/phosphates. Both silicas and phosphates can easily get past a hobbiest grade TDS meter, especially the cheap one that came with my RO/DI unit. Mine is registering 1 PPM out of the DI and 3 PPM in (i also just took it all apart and cleaned everything and put it back together... it went from 9ppm in down to 3ppm in while i was watching but remained at 1ppm out).

    just something to consider
     
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  7. OP
    Mandarinman

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    Thanks I test my tap water (no ro-di) and check for phosphates thanks for the help I will get the results soon
     
  8. jjwhiteboy

    jjwhiteboy I contributed!
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    Sounds like diatoms since you are not using ro/di
     
  9. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    While tap water may work for fish only with little to no lighting. It's just not an option for a reef tank as you would be constantly fighting a loosing battle.

    Even with ro/di performing at top level, keeping phosphates and nitrates at low levels takes work.
     
  10. OP
    Mandarinman

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    I checked and my phosphate is coming straight from my tap water. Thanks for all the help everyone!
     
  11. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    Phosphates are also going to buildup from the food input and nitrate from the biological processes that a skimmer can't process such as ammonia from fish waste.

    So good filtered water is the first step, it' isn't the only source.
     
  12. Jucksta

    Jucksta Senior Member
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    I run a phosban w/ bioplastic pellets and wondering about switching to GFO. Is there much of a difference?


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  13. pigskin018

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    Cheato. Works like a charm. Best free item I've ever got lol

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  14. capman

    capman I contributed!
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    I'm in Minneapolis as well. Though I have not tested the levels, my understanding has been that we have quite a lot of phosphate in our water (typical of a lot of tap water: http://toxics.supportportal.com/lin...fects-of-drinking-water-containing-phosphates ). And ammonia is added in order to form chloramine, which is more stable as a disinfectant than chlorine is.

    In my freshwater tanks at home I have sometimes had problems with blooms of cyanobacteria in well-lit tanks right AFTER big water changes! It can be quite annoying.
     
  15. pigskin018

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    That's makes a ton of sense. I could never figure out why my cheato went nuts for the week after a water change.

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