rlinusc and the case of the 125G Mixed Reef Tank

Discussion in 'Tank Builds' started by rlinusc, Jun 1, 2015.

  1. Fish4Me2

    Fish4Me2 I contributed!
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    Wow, everything is looking great!

    I agree with others that a true union ball valve for your return is a worthwhile purchase for setups with external pumps or other equipment fed from the return. In the past I've run the chiller off the system pump, and I liked having the true union because it was easier to pull and service the chiller. I'd suggest two things: anywhere you'll have a component that needs service or can fail, isolate it with a union ball valve. Also, no matter what ball valve you use, look for the best quality you can find. The lowest cost HD ones tend to freeze up pretty quickly, which makes them useless.
     
  2. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    Okay so... i have a question that may seem silly.

    I am getting ready to plumb the return, but i notice that the return pump (right now and Eheim 3400/1262) uses a tapered outlet- i.e. i guess it is barbed fitting.

    How should i best attach this to either a 1 1/2" return pipe or 1" return pipe? I would prefer the 1 1/2" only because that is the size of flexible pvc i got.

    Do i need to use a barbed fitting?
     
  3. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    Yes, eheim I believe like to use metric threads so finding something that would be a direct fit may be difficult. You might be able to get some smaller diameter flex pvc ( spa hose ) heat it up to make the connection but I'd still use some kind of clamp on it.
     
  4. cypho

    cypho I contributed!
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    Flex PVC is slightly flexible, but it is too rigid to be used over a barbed fitting or the tapered point on the pump. If you want to use flex-PVC you will need to glue the flex-PVC inside a rigid PVC slip fitting and find a PVC fitting that fits the pump threads or insert the flex-PVC inside one of the rubber hose-clamp PVC fittings. Flex PVC is slightly flexible, but it is too rigid to be used over a barbed fitting.

    I would take the pump into the hardware store and see if you can find a fitting that fits. A rubber PVC union would almost certainly work to connect the flex PVC to the tapered end of the pump. They are in the PVC plubing isle and look like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2...gclid=CILyrN75wccCFQiTaQodvW4Gnw&gclsrc=aw.ds

    If you want to use a barbed fitting or directly attach tubing to the tapered point on the pump you must use the much softer Vinyl Tubing. Vinyl is much softer than flex-PVC. This makes it more prone to kinking, but it is soft enough that it will stretch around the barbed fitting and can be compressed with a good hose clamp.

    Another option is to just use a short piece of vinyl tubing between the pump and the flex PVC.

    Also, I would not bother looking for plastic hose clamps, they are worthless. They don't hold the hose any more securely than no hose clamp at all unless the plastic is very soft and flexible (and most larger diameter vinyl tubing that is hard enough to not immediately kink when you unroll it, is not soft enough to be compressed much by a plastic hose clamp). I have used the metal hose clamps on/in aquariums for years, yes they eventually rust to the point they fall apart and need to be replaced. But I've never noticed any harmful effect from the rust. After all, GFO phosphate media is pretty much just an expensive jar of rust.
     
    #24 cypho, Aug 24, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
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    rlinusc

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  6. cypho

    cypho I contributed!
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    3/4 vinyl fits perfectly over 1/2" PVC pipe (snug enough to stay in place, but not so tight that it is impossible to get on). You can make your own slip-barb fitting with a slip-slip fitting and a short piece of 1/2" PVC pipe. If your return line is made out of 1/2" PVC, you can just slip the 3/4" vinyl right over the end of the pipe without any fittings at all.

    You often end up needing several fittings to get from one thing to another. Barb-thread fitting + thread-slip fitting + bushing to change size + slip-slip fitting to connect to pipe running up to the tank.
     
    #26 cypho, Aug 24, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
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    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    I am thinking of either using rods or reef epoxy for attachign live rock to each other. do people have a preference? And if rods are a preference, any local places that carry them? (i was going to check farm supply store).
     
    #27 rlinusc, Aug 24, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
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    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    FYI- apparently the 1262 Eheim does NOT fit 3/4 vinyl tubing, (ID),but rather 1" ID fitting. I found a 1" adapter that uses a threaded fitting, but that should work.

    I also found these nice pex rods that were cheap 1.59 and a much better deal than the fiberglass ones for aquascaping.

    I am slowly getting there.. but in the baffles, just need to plumb the return with the ATS and i am ready to get the tank wet!
     
  9. CoralKings

    CoralKings Junior Member
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  10. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    How many people use a check valve for their return? I ordered a spears true Union Check valve for my return.. which is great, except it is threaded, rather than slip. Do people find the check valve to be indispensable? My return line is not going to be very long about 4' in total.

    Linus
     
  11. David Grigor

    David Grigor TCMAS Old Timer
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    Never depend on a check valve. You stand a better chance if it has way easily get in/out to maintenance it. Since return pump is on for long periods of time, it often will not close when you want it to especially the flapper type. You need to be able to regularly maintenance. Always best to have your return plumbing right at or just slightly submerged and a little hole in it to break a siphon.
     
    #31 David Grigor, Aug 26, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2015
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    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    I am doing that - with he vacuum break should I still keep the check valve?


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  13. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    so close- if sand and water tomorrow night!![​IMG]


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  14. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    Help!!!

    Argh this is so frustrating.

    So before I put water and sand into the tank something was nagging at me. When I first put the tank on the stand I noticed that one of the 3 corners was not flushed. (picture below) it wasn't a huge amount but was enough to be noticeable. My first reaction was to go ahead and shim it like i did under the stand from the floor. No big deal.

    But as I was getting ready to water in that part nagged at me and I did some research. So shimming from stand to tank is a bad idea... apparently it causes all sorts of problems and essentially threatens the structural integrity of the tank. No Bueno. And worse this wasn't a gap between the tank and stand along a span but was uneven on the corner which is key.

    I am close to tearing my hair out. I was going so slow and measure 2-3 times and eve putting pieces together to make sure they matched length so I am really frustrated that my tank may have been off.

    Does anyone have a suggestion short of my building a 3rd stand?

    Right now my only thought is to try and put a rubber mat along the stand and then put a plywood/ board on top of that. That would not be ideal as I would have to find a way to cut out space for the overflow drains to the sump.

    I would really appreciate any advice.[​IMG]


    And no that is not a crack in the bracing- it is just a trail of sealant

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    #34 rlinusc, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
  15. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    I think I solved it. I shimmed under the stand a bit more under that corner and not inly did it make the tank more level it got all 4 corners to be touching and supported. I think the floor was the I level part.


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    #35 rlinusc, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
  16. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    and I have water! [​IMG]


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  17. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    and it is set up! [​IMG][​IMG]


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  18. Bschowa

    Bschowa I contributed!
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    Looking good! How are you liking your return pump so far? Is that the eheim that you mentioned above or is that the new vectra?


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  19. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    I added a couple of new items yesterday.

    A quick update:

    I am using the vectra and i couldn't be happier. it is whisper quiet and i just have it set at the lowest setting currently.

    Other equipment:

    2 MaxSpect, one 15W and 16W versions and 1 AI Hydra. I am thinking of adding a BuildmyLED 20K light as well.

    Maxpect Gyre 150

    Will hopefully like to add one Wav pump when i can get an Ilink module.

    Using an L2 Turbo's Algae turf scrubber. Not much growth yet, but that isn't too surprising.

    and 2 Eheim heaters, one went crazy and starting heating too much, but i will be installing the Apex soon so i hope that won't be an issue.

    So far i have:

    2 Occelaris from patent,
    the green hairy mushrooms rock and a chalice from Flounder
    I had the above for 2+ months now in a 40 gallon long before transferring to the 120.

    a purple gorg. toadstool, kenyan tree and 1 green mushroom from Dustyhike on Sunday and which i put right into my tank. I didn't think QTing the corals was necessary, but if others do, please let me know. I did not dip them.. though i do have some coral dip.

    I will be installing the Apex soon.




    [​IMG]


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    #39 rlinusc, Sep 21, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2015
  20. OP
    rlinusc

    rlinusc I contributed!
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    Future plans:

    1) Install apex
    2) Install a second circulation pump. I would like the single WAV pump, but right now even though they sell it, they don't sell the necessary 1link module. So not sure if i should wait until that is available.
    3) Get 1 more light fixture.
    4) figure out how to hang the lights from the ceiling or get a canopy to put the lights in. If someone has a canopy that fits over a 48x24" tank= please let me know.
    5) instally a screen for the top of the tank. I don't have any jumpers currently, but would want the option in the future.
    6) install a top for hte overflow chamber to prevent snails and other things from ended up in the overflow.
    7) install a dual reactor chamber for carbon and GFO.
    8) get some chaeto.

    Future stocking-
    Corals-
    another leather, hopefully a colt coral and some pulsing xenias
    a couple of zoas- looking for red and yellows as colors. I would like to add some more gorgonians from capman and then hopefully also add a trumpet or candycane coral in the nearish future.

    In the long future i would like to consider a clam, likely a maxima, but i will want to wait until i feel like the tank has been humming for a while.

    Fish-
    Near future
    Watchman(ora) w/pistol shrimp, still thinking of yellow assessor(ora), cleaner goby (ora), pajama or Banghai cardinal. Still considering a fairy or flasher wrasse.

    far future- dragonet- hopefully a mandarin, but would want to make sure my copepod population is nice and healthy.


    if anyone has any future thoughts let me know.
     

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