DOS AWC Setup

Discussion in 'General Reef Discussion' started by spsick, Jul 22, 2020.

  1. spsick

    spsick Acro-poor-a
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    Any wizards here that can offer safety tips on programming?

    Setting up a DOS in my basement for AWC to the tank upstairs. I plan on doing the slow all day run.

    For safety/redundancy would I want a float sensor in the bottom of my NSW Container to prevent continuing to pull out of tank with nothing to replace when I forgot to fill it and then ATO dropping salinity?

    Any input is helpful. I’m all about bulletproof plans before implementing things that can kill my tank.
     
  2. Nezw0001

    Nezw0001 I contributed!
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    I have a similar set up but I do it backwards. One pump removes tankSW, the ATO float switch in my sump detects this drop and replaces with NSW. The second dosing pump replaces a set amount of FW to maintain salinity. I monitor salinity 2X per week and adjust the FW pump settings as needed. This way if a float fails I can't flood my tank with FW, I only drain my NSW tank.

    Two times using a normal ATO set up on my QT tanks I have had a malfunction and rapidly drop salinity.
     
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  3. RSnodgrass

    RSnodgrass TCMAS President
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    Sensors are cheap, buy two :)
     
  4. RSnodgrass

    RSnodgrass TCMAS President
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    I will manually turn it on sometimes (and forget it's on) so I added:
    When On > 070:00 Then OFF

    Then added a virtual switch to control when I'm alerted about my water bucket being empty:
    Set OFF
    If Time 08:02 to 08:03 Then ON
    If Time 18:02 to 18:03 Then ON
    If (float switch) CLOSED Then OFF

    Alarm line reads:
    If Output (virtual switch) = ON Then ON
     
  5. OP
    spsick

    spsick Acro-poor-a
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    Have a recommendation? My options are breakout box and floats or FMM and optical sensors (more $). I’m thinking a sensor in bottom of NSW tank and then what? One in bottom of top off- to shut it off in event add punk gets a blockage from crud and continues removing water and ATO runs out?

    The fun part is FMM is aquabus so could be in basement next to DOS and NSW tank but either way would need a long cable for the other sensor in either format.
     
  6. Nickz

    Nickz Nobody
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    I only have a float switch in my nsw barrel to turn it off and send me alarm if storage barrel empty.
     
  7. RSnodgrass

    RSnodgrass TCMAS President
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    I'm using a breakout box. If you want to get fancy the Avast float switches definitely cost more but they are equally hard to have fail.
     
  8. Mordim

    Mordim Just keep reefing
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    I do AWC with a DOS. I suggest two sensors also. One for low sump and one for high sump water levels. You never know which line will have an issue. They have saved me. I have twice with a low sump alert due to running out of saltwater while I was working out issues with the saltwater bin sensor. And one time I had an issue with high sump when I accidentally set a board on the line which pinched it off.

    If you do AWC all day long, it would be harder to detect low sump since the auto top off would continue to pick it up. I run mine staring at 3am for 3-4 hours. During this time I have my ATO shut off which allows the sensors to pick up issues.

    Use the fusion DOS wizard to the set up the AWC and then add two command to set the dos to off if your low or high sump sensors are open/activated/alerting.
     
  9. RSnodgrass

    RSnodgrass TCMAS President
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    That's an excellent point on the ATO and lowering salt levels.
     
  10. OP
    spsick

    spsick Acro-poor-a
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    Totally. I was thinking the float in the bottom of the ATO would be the emergency protection against that as my reservoir is only 7 gal and I usually have less than 5g in it.
     
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  11. Mordim

    Mordim Just keep reefing
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    Thanks guy.
    The DOS is slow enough that the ATO will keep up as water is removed without trigger the 10 min run safety since my ATO is faster than the DOS. You'll have to decide how much of an impact 5-7 gallons would have on your tank and if your ok with that risk.
    My ATO reservoir is around 20 gallons which which is 20% of my tank volume. I also don't have a salinity probe. So for me, I'm not willing to risk
     
  12. Ben Nicholls

    Ben Nicholls TCMAS Old Timer
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    When you set it up, don't use the Fusion wizard. It sets the remove head to run backwards. The only advantage of that is the amount in the graph shows as negative which indicates it was remove. The problem is that the manual priming button and the calibration both run forward. If you do it the way they set it up you have to disconnect and switch the tubes everytime you want to prime or calibrate. Instead just set both heads to run forward and run the tubes appropriately.

    If you are not running a salt probe I would suggest you test regularly. Salinity changes are the best indicator of an issue with AWC. I've had the removal line clog with precipitant before. I've also had the new salt water line float up so it was out of the water and not drawing in new. I caught both by noticing a salinity change over several days. At least with continuous water changes it only makes a small change per day and you have time to correct issues without crashing your tank.

    I would also suggest having clear lines at some place. That way you can see if anything is building up in the lines. Running citric acid through the lines is a good way to clean them if you get any build up.
     
  13. OP
    spsick

    spsick Acro-poor-a
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    Neat, yeah I already did it with the wizard and found that annoying. Otherwise isn’t programming for all day cycle a pain?

    And I used the supplied tubing for the NSW intake so I could watch for crud. Considering adding a 5 micron filter to my WC station pump and cycling that after mixing to clean up the water.
     
  14. Ben Nicholls

    Ben Nicholls TCMAS Old Timer
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    It is easy to set up manually. You just create a 24h interval in the graphic wizard. You can still change what you have set up. Edit the old water settings and change "remove" to "add" and switch the tubes the other way. It will make it a lot easier if you need to prime or calibrate in the future.

    Pulling in crud is only one way they get clogged. The calcium can also precipitate out while in the tube and slowly clog the line. I've seen it on both the lines. Mine are running down to the basement so the temp change in the lines might make that more likely to happen. I just run citric acid through the lines when I see them getting cloudy.
     
  15. OP
    spsick

    spsick Acro-poor-a
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    Oh awesome alright I’ll sort that out.

    Good to know about the lines as my setup is also in the basement. How often are you cleaning them out?
     
  16. Ben Nicholls

    Ben Nicholls TCMAS Old Timer
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    I've had to clean them twice in 2 years but that was partially because I was having general precipitation problems in the tank last winter.
     

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