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24 Gallon Build (1 Viewer)

BonesReef

BonesReef

I contributed!
Lifetime Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
698
Location
Plymouth, MN
I wanted to start a thread for this 24 gallon so here we go.

Equipment:
24 Gallon Aqua-pod
24" Current USA 150 watt HQI/T5/LED
Prizm Skimmer

LiveStock:
1 pair Royal Grammas (In QT and will be added this week)
1 pair Ocellaris Clownfish (Snowflake male, Black and white Female. In broodstock and will also be added this week)
Random pieces of Starter rock and a nice Culture Starter
1 Dozen red scarlet hermits
1 Dozen nerite snails

Future additions:
20 SPS frags: Will provide the whole list soon. I traded a pair of clowns for these.
Mangrove
Clams
fan worms

I also just ordered this DJ powerstrip with blue switches to mount to the stand:
http://www.hollywooddj.com/ps-s8.html

other items in the near future are nano hydors, and 2-part solution.


The goal for this tank is to provide a lagoon type feel. The aquascaping will change this week as well. Below you will find some pictures of it so far..Thanks for your time!


DSC02550.jpg

DSC02549.jpg

DSC02551.jpg

DSC02553.jpg

DSC02552.jpg


With HQI and T5s:(You really can not tell from the picture how intense it is)
DSC02557.jpg


With Just the T5s:
DSC02554.jpg


With Both the Blue & White LEDs:
DSC02558.jpg


Just White LEDs:
DSC02560.jpg


Just Blue:
DSC02559.jpg
 
Looks good. That's pretty cool how the false wall has an indent to allow for the skimmer to return back into the tank. I've never seen that before.

Keep us posted on the new additions!
 
Thanks, yeah I got lucky that the prizm and the tank fit perfect.... In the first chamber what I'm looking to do is remove the foam pads and turn it into a fuge. If anyone has input on that please share :)
 
Looking good! When I had a 12g aquapod I got rid of the foam pad & replaced it LR rubble & topped it with chaeto & put a small led light with four leds ...the chaeto was OK for a while but I found water changes worked better on the small tank & the LR rubble provided room for pods to hide & grow.
btw Nice light ;)
 
Looks good!

I think your stock list might be a little large though. You won't be able to fit 20 SPS frags in there unless you are unsuccessful and they never grow.

Think about maybe 3 spots for a softball size colonies and a 6" space for the clam to grow into.
 
BonesReef said:
Thanks, yeah I got lucky that the prizm and the tank fit perfect.... In the first chamber what I'm looking to do is remove the foam pads and turn it into a fuge. If anyone has input on that please share :)
Click to expand...

I did a fuge on my old 12g by removing the black plastic on the back of the middle chamber(use a razor blade to score it and it should peel off easily) and lighting from the rear with a compact florescent book-light--one of those 23w 6500k 4 tube ones you can find at wal-mart for around $10.

edit: I love the DJ powerstrip; I had one on my old tank and loved it for w/c.
 
hypertech said:
Looks good!

I think your stock list might be a little large though. You won't be able to fit 20 SPS frags in there unless you are unsuccessful and they never grow.
Click to expand...

I plan on being very unsuccessful with the frags :) Thats why I'm trading for so many..I'm sure one or two would actually grow...lol :biggthumpup:

but on a serious note I never even thought about that, which I'm sure your right about. Maybe I'll reduce the total and get some more mushrooms and ricordia from him instead.


As for making the first compartment the fuge...I really like the idea of placing rubble rock in that area. and also a chemi-pure bag in the second. Do I need any type of polyfilter or anything else?? Any other words on how to be successful? How often should I do a water change? More than once a week?

Thanks!
 
I have a chance to purchase an ecotech Vortech MP40 which was used for $180. Does anyone have any input on that pump, I know it also may be a bit overkill...but I know it has many different modes to fit the tank.
 
$180 used sounds too good to be true, and on a 12g it is too big. But it would be great for a bigger tank for sure.

I have the MP20 & love it for my lagoon-style 3' tank. I could probably have gotten away with an MP40W because I prefer fast, low-energy pulses for back & forth linear flow, as opposed to running it flat-out wide-open -- but I'm cheap, & Vortech's can be upgraded very easily. My MP20 goes 500-2000 rpm, whereas a 40W goes 1000-3000rpm.

I've done my share of research on Vortech, met Tim in PA, etc. I'd check to see it's an MP40W (W = wireless driver w/the GEN2 flash updates) and, most importantly, that the wet side is 2nd-generation with the sealed magnets, etc., as opposed to an actual MP40 which pretty much sucked in my opinion. If it's really an MP40, get some pictures, & forward those pics to the guys at EcoTech to get their opinion. An MP40 would be out of warranty, but Icecap does their service, turn-around is usually a day, and they could give you a written estimate to bring the Vortech up to GEN2 specs.

Also check out their vendor forum on RC.
 
Thanks for the input on the Vortech. The tank is a 24gallon, but I know that is still pushing it.
As for the pump that this guy is selling...He is parting out his whole tank and is in need of quick cash. He said that it was purchased about 6months ago for around $400. But I just sent him another email asking if it was the MP40W.

Do you have any pictures or video of your tank with the pump in action?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Oh my...

Can you, um, maybe give me that guy's email address... like RIGHT NOW?

Seriously ... that's an amazing deal. I've seen MP40W's on a 29g, but just on "gurlie mode" (slow pulse, Salmon-colored LEDs, dialed way down). But that $180 VorTech will follow you from tank to tank for many years. There are other VorTech users here with more practical experience than I have who might also chime in, but even if you had to pay a few extra bucks for a GEN2 wet side later on ($75 I think), you should never have to worry about GEN2 drivers -- anyone in the Cities with a current driver (Mattb...? just guessing) could flash GEN2 code directly from their driver to yours.

While I really wish I could post a video, I am totally broke again and do not even own a camera. SWE, OD, and All-Reef seem to get all my money. (Also, the judge said I'm not supposed to make videos any more, ever since last time.) But don't despair! There are a lot of really cool VorTech videos on You Tube.

Go for it.
 
Well he was able to confirm that it was the MP40 not mp40W...not it has me thinking its not the way to go....hmmmm

So what is better about the Generation 2?
 
That sucks Brandon. That pump will cost considerably more than $180. Gen2 is sort of the difference between the Apollo and Space Shuttle. Major differences in hardware (sealed magnets, vital design tweaks) & software updates to improve functionality with wireless ability to allow a master-slave relationship to run multiple pumps in either sync or anti-sync, etc...

So here's what I'd do: I'd call EcoTech Marine in the morning and ask for Tim Marks. He's a nice guy, probably 25 or so (okay, maybe a little conceited in person according to some), but the important thing is Tim will give you a no-bull$hit assessment on his opinion of the asking price in comparison to what it will cost to turn that dinosaur into a real VorTech.

I'm real interested in what Tim will have to say, so if you could share that would be great.

Hey Brandon, see if that guy will share the serial # with you, that will tell the whole story. The serial # is located on the driver box.
 
Last edited:
Wanted to provide an update.
Since the last post I have Added:
-Hydor 1 powerhead
-Maxi-jet 1200 as return pump
-19" DJ power Strip
-Hermits and Snails

As you can see I have got my first algae...Can't wait for it go:mad:

Also I tested my levels today:
Calcium= 465
Mag=1350
KH/ALK= 7.0/2.51

Here are some updated pics:
DSC02583.jpg

DSC02581.jpg

DSC02584.jpg

DSC02588.jpg


Any suggestions please let me know. I also purchased 2-part. Where should my levels be at for maximum coraline growth?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
I'm not sure I could use the test kit boxes as decor :gay1:

What brand switch is that?

My only suggestion is to watch your temps. You may want to change that 1200 for a 900 to reduce the water temperature.
 
Haha...yeah I took them down, I had just got done testing the levels. :stupid:

As for the temp I actually pulled my heater because it was getting up to 87 after about two hours of the halide being on... Now it stays at a cool 78 and then 80 with the halide on.

This may be a stupid question...but when mixing 2 part do I use saltwater or RO?..I need to mix them tonight.

thanks
 
Use RO for the two part.

This is not the first post I've seen lately about heaters, lights, and temps. If you unplugged the heater and the temp dropped, the heater is broken. Well, at least the thermostat in it is broken. Get a temp controller like the Ranco and plug your heater into that. The heating element should not be on if the tank is hot. You want the heater in the system to maintain the temp at night - especially as we get to winter.

Switching that MJ1200 to the MJ900 will help with heat a lot too. It isn't much less flow but it is a lot less heat.
 
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