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My DIY LED Build (1 Viewer)

What are those channels made of? I made one fixture from those 1" heat sink channels and with leds at about 3" apart it got so hot you couldn't touch it.

When the channel is so narrow it is hard to cool it.
 
ArstenA said:
What are those channels made of? I made one fixture from those 1" heat sink channels and with leds at about 3" apart it got so hot you couldn't touch it.

When the channel is so narrow it is hard to cool it.
Click to expand...

The channels are aluminum. I'm basically copying this build:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1973462

I read through it and he said they never got too hot where you couldn't touch it. What kind of air movement did you have?
 
LED Colors:
Driver #1:
12 - CW
6 - NW
6 - RB

Driver #2
18 - RB
8 - True Violet


That makes 24 RB, 8 Violet, 18 CW/NW.
 
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My personal choice would still be to skip more of the CW and go NW with a 2:1 ratio (2rb:1nw) and pump up the violet. Only thing to be concerned with is too purple of a look because of the red spectrum in the NW combined with the blue. I know personally I have not had any issue with the purple look on my DIY LED (found in my build thread). Here is a really good thread on "full spectrum" builds. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=294733&st=20
 
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ArstenA said:
What are those channels made of? I made one fixture from those 1" heat sink channels and with leds at about 3" apart it got so hot you couldn't touch it.

When the channel is so narrow it is hard to cool it.
Click to expand...

were those the the square tubes? maybe I'm confusing this with someone elses build but they were attached to the canopy..? that setting appeared to be a heat trap but I was curious because of the fans that were used. On my previous setup in the enclosed canopy even with fans the heatsink would get hot; this time I have left the top open.. without fans also the LEDs are running cool at their current setting. Once I have the controller properly hooked up I will add fans to draw heat away.
 
mapierce7 said:
My personal choice would still be to skip more of the CW and go NW with a 2:1 ratio (2rb:1nw) and pump up the violet. Only thing to be concerned with is too purple of a look because of the red spectrum in the NW combined with the blue. I know personally I have not had any issue with the purple look on my DIY LED (found in my build thread). Here is a really good thread on "full spectrum" builds. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=294733&st=20
Click to expand...

LED Colors:
Driver #1:
6 - CW
12 - NW
6 - RB

Driver #2
18 - RB
8 - True Violet


I could also add 2 TV to Driver #1, If I have to I can turn down the white string and turn up the blue not ideal but would work.
 
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JayJeep said:
LED Colors:
Driver #1:
6 - CW
12 - NW
6 - RB

Driver #2
18 - RB
8 - True Violet


I could also add 2 TV to Driver #1, If I have to I can turn down the white string and turn up the blue not ideal but would work.
Click to expand...

Any idea if this is going to be a more blue look or more white. I don't want it to be too blue??
 
I thnk it will be a decent balance but slightly more towards the white.

not sure you can run the true violets with the RBs because the true violets should only be run at 500 mA? while the Blues can go to at least 1000 mA
 
I think it is going to be more on the white side as well. I have a lot of blue and still have to keep my whites turned down to get the 14000K ish look I am going for. I however use the higher power XML lamps for my whites. My lights also run on a ramping schedule for some nice dawn to dusk effects. I would really like to figure out how to make a time lapse video to show how things ramp.
 
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I'm planning on running the RBs at 650-700mA. I suppose I can't run the True Violets with either string???

Rapid LED has Violet UV that can run at 700mA. That's probably the ones I want to get not the True Violets.
 
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Nope, the max they can go is 500ma.. which means they cant be mixed with anything else unless you want the blues driven at a lower current also.
 
Update
Parts Ordered:
(2) Mean Well ELN-60-48D Drivers from Bravo Electronics

LEDS (ledgroupbuy)
(6) Cool White XT-E
(24) Royal Blue XT-E
(12) Neutral White XT-E
(6) True Violets (Steve's LED)

Other Items:
1"x1/2"x1/8" Aluminum Channel (Discount Steel)
5/8"x5/8"x1/8" Aluminum Angle (Discount Steel)
(2) 100/125VAC Fans (Ax-Man)
100ft 20 AWG wire (Ax-Man)

I still need to get the fuses, resistors, pots and terminals. I also need to dig up some power cords for the drivers and a 10V adapter.

I plan to use a 9V adapter instead of the 10V adapter for testing and such because the 9V are easier to find (unless somebody has a 10V adapter laying around). I'm going to get a Reef Keeper ALC module to control the light when its done.

I'm also building a canopy to incorporate the light into
 
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David Grigor said:
Another Ax man thing. $.99 Just 9v battery holder with 2 bare wires. Works just fine for testing your solder connections.
Click to expand...

I thought about that after I left the store the other day. I have to look but I'm pretty sure my multimeter has a diode tester.
 
Update:

I've got the Violet LEDS pre-tinned now and I'm finishing up the canopy build. Yesterday, I was able to get the outer frame of the light welded. I welded the outside frame to prevent racking and i'm going to use screw the channels to that. I also got the fans wired into the canopy.

Right now I'm still waiting for the leds to come from ledgroupbuy.com. I'm going to finish up the channels for the light and attach them to the frame this week. I will get pictures of the frame and canopy tonight or tomorrow.
 
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Has anybody ordered from ledgroupbuy.com before? I order my leds 3 weeks ago and they haven't shipped them yet. I know their site says orders may ship within 14 days from date of order but 3 weeks is a long time. I guess that's why their prices are lower but they aren't that low.
 
Yep, I've made several orders. All my stuff has been in stock so it's been jiffy just a couple of days and at my door.
 
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