Marty's 450g (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter marty9876
- Start date
Remove jam beyond skill set of those involved. Should add there are sidelights on either side of the door, not sure if that matters.
Putting 4000+ lbs of water on the 1st floor of a new house is already pushing the WAF, taking the new house apart might exceed the allowable WAF specifications of this project.
Putting 4000+ lbs of water on the 1st floor of a new house is already pushing the WAF, taking the new house apart might exceed the allowable WAF specifications of this project.
Removing the door jams is easy. They are just attached on with small nails, so you just need a small flat pry bar and gently pry them off. Then when you are done nail them back on there. Might need to do a little touch up painting to cover the nails.
kieffer_5
Senior Member
You wouldn't even need paint if you use a nail set to get the nails in correctly.
if there are sidelights on either side of the door, my guess is that the door in question is an exterior door, which I would not want to mess with either.
Yup, exterior door. Inside doors I'm fine taking apart, this one the jam appears to be a structural part holding the door on one side and the glass on the other side(s). I think a guy would have to remove all of it - glass+door+glass. then I could get a really big tank in!!!
36" tall was good enough for me at one time, it's good enough for me now.
There are folks smarter than me, however, if you build it 95X36X40 and then cut it into two pieces 95X18X40 (or two pieces 95X36X20), can you then just 'bolt' it back together? That would save the extra steel underneath, you would just need 'plates' of some sort with two holes and then a hole drilled in the steel on either side of the 'cut'. If the steel pieces are too thick to be bolting together with plates, then moot point.
I would build it, drill it, put on the plates to fit them, then remove the plates, cut it in half, powder coat the whole thing, move it into place, put the plates and bolts back in place.
I don't know if it will work or not, but seems to me, most of the weight is pushing down in the corners, not out, so it could work.
Otherwise, I am not going to argue with your shortened stand plan, seems fine to me.
It will look unbelievable in the space you have there, it will be an awesome size.
I would build it, drill it, put on the plates to fit them, then remove the plates, cut it in half, powder coat the whole thing, move it into place, put the plates and bolts back in place.
I don't know if it will work or not, but seems to me, most of the weight is pushing down in the corners, not out, so it could work.
Otherwise, I am not going to argue with your shortened stand plan, seems fine to me.
It will look unbelievable in the space you have there, it will be an awesome size.
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I've toyed with the cut it/plate it back together. Works for the middle supports but I can wrap my mind around how it'd work for the outside horizontal supports. Need the outsides to be flush since I have less than 1/2" on each side left after skinning. Image one could tack on some threaded rod to the bottom of the outside rals and then bolt a piece under it to reinforce the rail. Messy for 4" of height.
Problem with 95x36x20 is then you'd have a support rail right in your face when opening access doors in the front.
Thanks for the ideas, keep'um coming!
Problem with 95x36x20 is then you'd have a support rail right in your face when opening access doors in the front.
Thanks for the ideas, keep'um coming!
I made the same mistake with the seahorse tank stand I had to cut the stand in half, the stand was made from 1.25" steel tube 1/8" thick so I just inserted 1" steel tube down the center of all of the cuts that ran the length from the top of the stand to the floor.and put it back together once I got it in the room.
It worked well but a stand as big as yours is going to need to be it's probably best to make it a solid piece. If I were you I would mock up a cardboard box the size of the stand and the tank and see what it's like getting it in place. all the way from outside to the final resting space.
the fewer the surprises when you do get the stand and tank the better.
You're welcome to the rest of the marco mortar that I have also you can see what I am talking about when it came to that sea horse stand. I am sure that discription left a lot to be desired.
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Time for a saws all big guy
So what is the final solution to getting it through the front door ?
34.5" tall, turn sideways. The final measurement was about that... It's going to be close.
I hope you've tested with the cardboard box. tight on a straight away is one thing tight and you have to angle it as it's going through the door is another.
34"- 36" is not the same as 40-42"when it comes to viewing... given that you are a taller guy and there is room.. I would recommend to plan for a taller stand.. or a foundation and then put the stand on it to raise the height. I built mine to be about 34" tall and after appx 2 years I was ready to raise the heighht (with the kids also taller now it was starting to sound very convincing)
for circulation, I have used a lot Tunze's... including two different size waveboxes.. personally I like the powerheads much better. I'd probably still consider a wavebox if it could somehow be hidden out of sight and taken out rather easily for maintenance.
Keep an eye out on RC... you can find used 6200's/6201's for a good price. do the high flow mod and dont feel guilty about it
I dunno if you will like it but the tangs/angels will love the current it puts out. if tuned correctly the tunzes will easily start a wave9' landing, open area. You all are going to make me nervous.
Nothing a saws all can't fix
8" concrete blocks would work well for this. Could set the stand on them and then just skin down over them with wood face frame. 6" block would get you back to 42. I think you would be glad you have the viewing height in the end.
Sorry Marty, I am hoping I am able to help you move that beast of a tank into place when it comes in so if we know it's going to go smoothly it helps up front.
Ideas and muscle always welcome!!!
Adam is stopping over here is a bit to help me plot, options for moving the tank into the house are:
1. Carry it
1a. Furniture dollies & carry it
2. Build ramps (one step to porch, one step into house) and furniture dollies
2a Same, rent Genie lift type deal
3. Build ramps, buy Hydraulic Lift Table Cheaper option
No one has those for rent. I might be over thinking things and just carrying it will be fine.
Adam is stopping over here is a bit to help me plot, options for moving the tank into the house are:
1. Carry it
1a. Furniture dollies & carry it
2. Build ramps (one step to porch, one step into house) and furniture dollies
2a Same, rent Genie lift type deal
3. Build ramps, buy Hydraulic Lift Table Cheaper option
No one has those for rent. I might be over thinking things and just carrying it will be fine.
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