That sucks....is the housing different, or is it just the LED configuration? Is there a noticeable difference in light output?
Marty's 450g (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter marty9876
- Start date
DjScRiBbLe
Senior Member
Nice build man, I was just out at josh's house last night picking some stuff up and we were talking about how nice your fish room/tank are. Going to have to stop by some time an check it out. Ive quickly out grown my 120 and am in the planning stages with midwest custom aquariums on a tank similar size to yours, most likely smaller though... Bummer about the led's, if you order 2 you think they would have sent you the same configuration ???
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
Haven't powered the second fixture on yet, first one was blinding so visually I can't image being able to tell because you can't look at the thing anyways.
I need to get over to Josh's and check his out now that his lights are hung.
I need to get over to Josh's and check his out now that his lights are hung.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2009
- Messages
- 2,523
It would be interesting to see the difference between the two lights running, I am looking forward to seeing these up and running. I am toying with getting these or a Pacific sun led/t5 combo unit.
I just saw ATI is coming out with an all Led later this year ...
I just saw ATI is coming out with an all Led later this year ...
DjScRiBbLe
Senior Member
His tank looks nice with those reef breeders. Fish look amazing
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Nothing formal, reef central folks say the LEDs are the new something of another ones. Basically 4x diodes grouped into one. 10% more efficient. Reef geek is swapping out fixtures, waiting for the new one to show up. Still haven't hung them, so lame. Another 2 weeks out I bet.
Plugged the new one in, bright as hell
Plugged the new one in, bright as hell
at least you are able swap them out, but I can only imagine the additional time sucks
YES! Great choice.
DjScRiBbLe
Senior Member
So your the guy that took those.
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Starting to look like Frank's house over here
Update time! World domination plan in the works, annex another room in the house! Ok, wife said she didn't care what I did in the mechanical room.
Executing against a theory that with a little one in the house again I'll have less time for fish tank maintenance in the future. Automation and shorting water movement times was this focus of this round of upgrades. Big old mixing station/vat of fresh saltwater and a automatic water changing system was the goal. Project turned out to take much longer than expected but mostly done.
#1- 340 gallon mixing station.
Pain in the arse. Left the RO in the fish room, no reason to move it I could think of. Left tank is fresh with a mechanical float to shut off the RO if I forget it on. Right is the salt water bin. Original plan for pump was to use a Jeabo DC12000 to run everything. Theory was high flow low watt pump. I hate plumbing in 1.5"... I was stupid and snapped the threaded intake off the pump by putting too much stress on it. Enter plan b- backup Iwaki 100 I had laying around.
I was sick of spending money on this project so I threw the Jeabo DC12000 right into the salt bin and use Iwaki 100 to move water when needed. I don't leave the Iwaki on all the time, only when needed so no electrical drain there. With the adjustable Jeabo I figure this thing is using ~ 40 watts to keep eveythign fresh and I can crank everything up when needed (Jeabo on high, Iwaki fired up).
I included a feed line powered by the Iwaki for filling new 55g top off bin and I also tee'd the line to fill up the sump for large water changes and have a aux line for filling up the QT tanks for water changes also. With the Iwaki it took about 3-4 minutes to fill up the 55g fresh water bin.
Twist of a few valves and I can put a ton of water where ever I want it fast.
Primary purpose of all this was the auto water changing pump. Dual head peristaltic pump, drawn from the salt bin and dumps it down the floor drain all via 1/4" tubing.
I have float switches in the fresh top off, salt bin and then three in the sump. I don't have the apex programmed up yet but the theory will be to run the auto water changing pump ~ 2-3 hours a day (6-9 gallons) with the float preventing anything funky going on. Don't run if salt bin low, if sump low, if sump high etc. Independent floats which should never have to be used anyways due to the nature of the pump. Biggest risk is the pump running and no input only output. I can further reduce this risk my having the intake elevated in the sump (if run a muck could only take out so much). ATO is limited to a few minutes a day and I manually fill it.
Should be able to go 2 weeks between ATO fill up or salt water change bin mix up.
Update time! World domination plan in the works, annex another room in the house! Ok, wife said she didn't care what I did in the mechanical room.
Executing against a theory that with a little one in the house again I'll have less time for fish tank maintenance in the future. Automation and shorting water movement times was this focus of this round of upgrades. Big old mixing station/vat of fresh saltwater and a automatic water changing system was the goal. Project turned out to take much longer than expected but mostly done.
#1- 340 gallon mixing station.
Pain in the arse. Left the RO in the fish room, no reason to move it I could think of. Left tank is fresh with a mechanical float to shut off the RO if I forget it on. Right is the salt water bin. Original plan for pump was to use a Jeabo DC12000 to run everything. Theory was high flow low watt pump. I hate plumbing in 1.5"... I was stupid and snapped the threaded intake off the pump by putting too much stress on it. Enter plan b- backup Iwaki 100 I had laying around.
I was sick of spending money on this project so I threw the Jeabo DC12000 right into the salt bin and use Iwaki 100 to move water when needed. I don't leave the Iwaki on all the time, only when needed so no electrical drain there. With the adjustable Jeabo I figure this thing is using ~ 40 watts to keep eveythign fresh and I can crank everything up when needed (Jeabo on high, Iwaki fired up).I included a feed line powered by the Iwaki for filling new 55g top off bin and I also tee'd the line to fill up the sump for large water changes and have a aux line for filling up the QT tanks for water changes also. With the Iwaki it took about 3-4 minutes to fill up the 55g fresh water bin.
Twist of a few valves and I can put a ton of water where ever I want it fast.
Primary purpose of all this was the auto water changing pump. Dual head peristaltic pump, drawn from the salt bin and dumps it down the floor drain all via 1/4" tubing.
I have float switches in the fresh top off, salt bin and then three in the sump. I don't have the apex programmed up yet but the theory will be to run the auto water changing pump ~ 2-3 hours a day (6-9 gallons) with the float preventing anything funky going on. Don't run if salt bin low, if sump low, if sump high etc. Independent floats which should never have to be used anyways due to the nature of the pump. Biggest risk is the pump running and no input only output. I can further reduce this risk my having the intake elevated in the sump (if run a muck could only take out so much). ATO is limited to a few minutes a day and I manually fill it.
Should be able to go 2 weeks between ATO fill up or salt water change bin mix up.
Last edited:
great update...what type of evaporation are you seeing from the tank?
3 gallons daily is my guess. 450g is half lids half screen tops, 180g and 75g full lids. Actually running a humidifier here at times this winter.
