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AC3 programming check? (1 Viewer)

tjp

tjp

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I just got an AC3 last week and wondering if this looks programming OK
2 DC8’s and 2 PH probes 1 for tank and the other is for the calcium reactor.
It’s also running the lights on another tank

LT1$-A01 = actinic T5
LT2$-A02 = day lights T5
LT3$-A08 = sump light
PM1#-A03 = right power head
PM2#-A04 = left power head
PMP#-A06 = return pump
MON$-A07 = moon lights
HET%-A05 = heater
CO2&-B05 = Co2
PM3#-B03 = tank 2 return pump
LTB$-B01 = tank 2 actinic
MH2$- B02 = tank 2 MH


If Time > 12:00 Then LT1 ON
If Time > 01:00 Then LT1 OFF
If Time > 13:00 Then LT2 ON
If Time > 23:59 Then LT2 OFF
If Time > 10:00 Then LT3 ON
If Time > 23:59 Then LT3 OFF
If Time > 23:59 Then MON ON
If Time > 08:00 Then MON OFF
If Temp < 79.5 Then HET ON
If Temp > 80.0 Then HET OFF
If Time > 00:00 Then PMP ON
OSC 012/010 ON/OFF Then PM1 ON
OSC 012/010 ON/OFF Then PM2 OFF
If FeedA 000 Then PM1 OFF
If FeedA 000 Then PM2 OFF
If FeedA 002 Then PMP OFF
If FeedA 004 Then PM3 OFF
If pH2 > 06.60 Then CO2 ON
If pH2 < 06.50 Then CO2 OFF
If pH < 08.00 Then CO2 OFF
If Time > 00:00 Then PM3 ON
If Time > 09:00 Then LTB ON
If Time > 09:30 Then MH2 ON
If Time > 21:00 Then MH2 OFF
If Time > 21:30 Then LTB OFF

thanks for the look, anything look wrong?

Terry
 
As people here have said before (take this as me repeating what I've read, not that I'm an expert.) you probably want to add some fail safes. Meaning put in something like 'If Temp < 76 Then HET OFF' this will make sure that if the probe fails you don't cook your tank. I see that you have that for your CO2.

Also is there a reason your sump light is on during the day and not at night? I always thought it was better to alternate, have tank lights on during the day and sump light on during the night to help with PH...
 
To expand on what Bart says. Since your using an AC3 for sure use that Alarm feature to text your phone when abnormal conditions occur such as temp out of range. When temp probe itself fails typically will start to read over 100degrees. But also a heater element itslef could fail ( Finnex 500w for example are prone ) and temps fall below a certain range you would want to know via the alarm asap.

When abnormal high temp condition, tell it to turn lights Off and Fan Off at a abnormal high condition. In wintertime, an eronious 100degree reading can leave fans ON and HEATER OFF which can send your temps south very quickly.

I also keep a spare temp probe on hand for an emergency. Since I own 3 ACs ( 2 Jrs on smaller tanks and AC3 on show tank ), it's cheap insurance to have a spare in case happens off hours, I'm not chasing around a part. Also for redundancy, I have another heater on a Ranco temp controller that is totally seperate from the AC3 but the temp controller is set 2 degrees lower so it should never turn on unless the AC temp probe or main heater element fails. Because I use Finnex ( which are none for this ), I want to be sure if I get the alarm and not at home for immediate attention I have a plan.

This scenerio happened to me on the first generation Reefkeeper thankfully it was in the springtime so temps with fans on only reached 70. But in Decemember/January that could easily have been much worse. So I for sure what to be sure I have all this covered and minimize it happening again.
 
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The heater I have has a controller on it; I was thinking that would be a safety thing?

I have an open stand so I can see the sump, skimmer and things, so the light is annoying to me late at night when I’m watching TV, but I could have it Turn on after 2am when I go to bed and turn Off at 2pm when I leave for work.
Do you think that would help?
 
insacron said:
Also is there a reason your sump light is on during the day and not at night? I always thought it was better to alternate, have tank lights on during the day and sump light on during the night to help with PH...
Click to expand...

Some sort of macro algaes are more prone to going sexual than others ( calerpa and grape ) . Some leave on 24hours to lessen the chance. Another reason might be to increase macro algae growth.

Your right that opposite can help with PH swings but for MOST people the refugium is not sized large enough to make much of a difference. If really concerned about PH swings, dosing Kalkwasser during night is far more effective.
 
tjp said:
The heater I have has a controller on it; I was thinking that would be a safety thing?

I have an open stand so I can see the sump, skimmer and things, so the light is annoying to me late at night when I’m watching TV, but I could have it Turn on after 2am when I go to bed and turn Off at 2pm when I leave for work.
Do you think that would help?
Click to expand...

Well if the heater element itself goes out ( I use a finnex which is prone ), the built in thermostat will doing nothing for that.

If temp probe fails they fail high. Reading well over 100degrees. The AC3 would never turn your heater on in that scenerio so the built in thermostat does nothing for you.

Only way the built-in controller would help is if the temp probe falsely reads low which I supposed could happen but I have never heard of such a scenerio with a temp probe failure. So that situation is pretty unlikely. I myself put not reliance on those cheapy thermostats. My backup heater system is completely autonomous from the AC3 using an industrial temperature controller.

Regardless of any of these 3 situations, you want to know about it ASAP so you can determine the root cause quickly. So USE that ALARM feature to send you a text message and/or audiable alarm.
 
I misunderstood the refugium lighting. It's fine to do that way if you want. Depending on what your PH swings are though and if you decide you want to improve them, then will have to look for alternative ways of keeping the light out of the room.

Like I said though, most people the size of refugium is too small to have a major impact on PH swings one way or the other what works best for your TV watching is likely fine.
 
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I don't own a cell phone so I'd have to rig something, what do you use for an alarm? a light would work for now tell I can find something to make sound.
 
Speak of the devil, my 500w Finnex failed this morning. So the backup plan worked like a charm. I won't be getting Finnex ever again, didn't even last 3 months. Downside the backup 300w heater is a Finnex also.

Not sure on what to use as an alarm audio or visual. Go to the neptune sponsors forum at Reef Central and search there. I'm sure there are some existing posts with recommendations.
 
what brand of heater will you buy next.
I'd like to know how to do the RT code I see on RC for the heater?
 
Going back to ebo-jager. Everyone I've had last years and years. Titanium is a good idea but both finnex and won-bros brands are less than to be desired. I'll take my chances with the glass instead.

Here is mine:

If Temp < RT+0.0 Then HET ON
If Temp > RT+0.0 Then HET OFF
If Temp > 83.0 Then HET OFF
If Temp < 72.0 Then HET OFF
if Temp < 75.1 Then ALM ON

So if seasonal chart for todays date is 75.7 then my normal temp ranges would be 75.6-75.8

83 and 72 are my there must be something wrong statements. I also have the alarm ( text message to phone ) go off at 75 which normally shouldn't happen ( but it did today ).
 
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can't you pick your latitude and longitude you want to simulate?
for me it would be the other side of the globe because I work 2nd shift?
 
ok so i'm reading this and i think my ac jr is programed wrong can some one pm me so i don't high jack the thread

i have an aquapod 24 with the pump in back a koralia 1 a heater and one light and a skimmer

what should it looked like programed?
 
tjp said:
can't you pick your latitude and longitude you want to simulate?
for me it would be the other side of the globe because I work 2nd shift?
Click to expand...

I don't get your question, you asked for help with the rt command and your heater. You can pick whatever times you want for your lights. That is independant from the seasonal temps. I don't really see a need to change it. January here is the coldest month and in the default seasonal chart it works to your advantage to keep it that way as your heater won't have to work as hard during the coldest part of MN winter.
 
I'll have to work the temp down from 79.5-80.0 to the RT temp(75.6) but it all sounds good.
Thanks
 
Just be sure to calibrate your temp first. When going down to 75s ( which I consider the lower end ) you don't want it to be off by a couple of degrees because out of calibration.
 
Ok I was checking the temp with the new AC3 with a new temp probe (12/24/08) and it reads 78.5 and a glass thermometer reads 75ish
Coralife reads 74.4 another temp meter reads 77.2 I don’t know witch one to trust.
How do I calibrate the AC3 then, should I stop at petco and look what they have on the shelf and grab two that reads the same and just go with that?
 
I checked my digital stick at work with a glass Lab grade one and my stick was nuts on witch means that my AC3 was 1.4* off.
The AC3 said 77.9 and the stick said 76.5, so Thanks for having look in to this because it could have been really bad if I didn’t check.
 
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