ArstenA's 75 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[ArstenA]

The parquet floor isn't in the best of shape but we did have it sealed and polyed before I put the tank in, so it should have a little resistance.

Salinity is at 1.022 which is right about what my existing tank is at. Perhaps it is time to add some cromis to help cycle.

 

[ArstenA]

I got my aquascaping done last night. Sand is stirred up a little so the picture sucks. I will try to take some more pictures tonight....

Please provide positive and negative feedback!

 

[mabagan]

Lovin those shelves

 

[Flounder]

Lets see an updated pic!

 

[ArstenA]

Update...

I was in Germany all this week, so I finally got some time to put a crappy light on and test my parameters.

Ammonia is a little high as well as phosphates. Nitrite and nitrate were zero.

I got my leds ordered last night via rapid LED. They have 10% off this weekend only...

I plan to host a LED workshop so others can learn how to diy LED fixtures.

Here is a crappy picture.

 

[Flounder]

Still sweet rockwork! Shelves are awesome!
Any fish in there? Like damsel? or Chromis?

 

[ArstenA]

I had gotten four chromis a week ago, last one died yesterday. Not sure why.
First one died quite quick (no surprise), second one on day two, third one sometime while I was in Germany. We had been feeding them and they were eating.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4

 

[.Marshall]

Quick question.. wheres the skimmer!? Or am I missing something..

 

[Shibbs]

The skimmer is still keeping his other tank at the old house alive.

There's really no need for a skimmer running during cycling.

 

[ArstenA]

Yeah the skimmer is still on my system at the old house. I need to keep that going as long add possible so the new tank is cycled.

 

[ArstenA]

I did get three damsels, not even sure on the breed but they are doing quite good so hopefully the tank will cycle a little sooner.

 

[ArstenA]

DIY LED fixture

I have all my components ordered for my diy LED fixture.

I will be using custom "drivers" from work.
the fixture will have the following leds:
32 Cree XTE Royal Blues
16 true violet
8 Cree XML cool whites
8 Cree XPG neutral whites
4 Red
4 green
4 blue

Every color will be independently controllable.

Heatsink is a heatsinkusa 10" wide by 46" long.

As you can see I like to over do the leds so that they do not have to be run much above 50%.

 

[.Marshall]

The skimmer is still keeping his other tank at the old house alive.

There's really no need for a skimmer running during cycling.

I disagree, I believe it helps keep phosphate and nitrates down so when the cycle is complete you dont have the sudden growth of algae. But to each their own!

Yeah the skimmer is still on my system at the old house. I need to keep that going as long add possible so the new tank is cycled.

Ahh that's right! Forgot you still had the other house. And can't wait to see that LED fixture!

 

[ArstenA]

Leds are in!
Thermal paste is in!
Wire is in!
Heatsink due in tomorrow!

 

[Pumbooris]

So what are the drivers you are going to use?

 

[ArstenA]

http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/stellent/groups/publications/documents/product_literature/520l0713.pdf

That is a link to the datasheet. It is a programmable microcontroller with 8 PWM outputs capable of 3 amps each. The input voltage is 9 to 36 volts DC.

 

[Shibbs]

http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/stellent/groups/publications/documents/product_literature/520l0713.pdf

That is a link to the datasheet. It is a programmable microcontroller with 8 PWM outputs capable of 3 amps each. The input voltage is 9 to 36 volts DC.

What power supply are you using this time?

 

[ArstenA]

I was thinking I might use a 12 volt supply but then I need three separate controllers to drive that many LEDs. The other option is to use two different supplies so the low count strings (red,green,true blue) are correctly balanced.

But if I have three separate controllers then I have extreme control over dimming each channel. There would only be 4 LEDs per channel.
8 channels of royal blue
4 channels of true violet
2 channels of cool white
2 channels of warm white
1 channel of red
1 channel of green
1 channel of true blue

But if I ran 24 volts and 12 volts I would have
4 channels of royal blue @ 24v
2 channels of true violet @ 24v
1 channel of cool white @ 24v
1 channel of warm white @ 24v
1 channel of red @ 12v
1 channel of green @ 12v
1 channel of true blue @ 12v

 

[Bodegus]

I think the number of LEDs and driver set up is overkill. I was going with a very similar set up and have since greatly simplified the project because it doesn't do anything but waste precious vortech money...

Some suggestions
Cut out 8-10 royal blue and 8 UV/violeta
Cut out half the Red/Green/Blue accent
Split into 2 zones, left and right. If you evenly spread these over your tank you will create a burn spot int he middle, even with 60 degree lenses. I will have 12 inches in the middle with no LEDs, the left and right will over lap.

Run 6 channels using Mean Well Drivers. I find these way easier to work with and price comparable at the end of the day.
Left Royal Blues at 0-1500 ma
Left White (and a couple royal blues that wont fit in first channel) 0-1500 ma - You will always want some blue on anyways.
Right Royal Blues at 0-1500 ma
Right White (and a couple blue) at 0-1500 ma
UV channel at 0-700 ma for both left and right
Red/Green/Blue accent channel for both left and right at 0-700 ma (I use a constant voltage power supply from a laptop and a high current transistor)

I am working on an arduino controller that is going to yield some high resolution intensities similar to nature with the above configuration. I'd be happy to collaborate .

 

[ArstenA]

I have been running DIY leds for over two years. I have been using my work controllers to do this the entire time.

My program takes time, date, latitude, and longitude as inputs and calculates the sun and moon rise/set times and intensities.

Mean well drivers are way to expensive, my work controllers don't need any external circuitry.