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Brian's 135GL AGA Restoration (build) (1 Viewer)

Pomacanthus

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
858
Location
Rogers, MN
I sold this tank to good friend of mine in 1993 and recently bought it back. Its considered a "brick tank" back in the day when used properly sized glass (1/2"). Im going to attempt to make it rimless by removing the upper trim, the bottom faux oak trim is completely hidden by the stand design. The stand itself is like new believe it or not, cant decide if i want/need to refinish it may just leave it as it (since its technically done). The system will feature auto water replenishment that is progressive via gravity. I dont like wasting expensive water so here is the path: 135Gl reef ->Refugia->300 Gl quarentine/holding system->120GL softie tank (lower basement)->floor drain. This way my NaCl H20 gets recycled 3X thru 3 different systems in order of importance- I have the perfect and unique elevations in my home to accomplish this and i hope to show it to the forum someday when its finished. System will also feature custom built progressive counter current limewood airstone driven skimmers (also from 1993 Peter Wilkens would be smiling lol) They are 4 ft tall so IOW the first skimmer feeds the 2nd skimmer for maximum efficiency. This build should almost be called old school/new school because i want to feature both 17 yr old technologies and modern day combined into my creation. The skimmer arrangement is absolutely idea when using 03 for obvious reasons. I may put a Del Tek on there someday just for kicks if I think its necessary, but striving to get by without it. I havent got any thing else nailed down yet except for what Ive mentioned so far- i need to finish Reef Aquarium Vol 3 before i make too many more decisions. I will update this thread as build continues. Thanks Pomacanthus
 

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  • 135GL date sticker 1993.jpg
    135GL date sticker 1993.jpg
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  • 135 stand front.jpg
    135 stand front.jpg
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  • 135 corner trim seperate.jpg
    135 corner trim seperate.jpg
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rimlessrough.jpg

Here is the tank with all the trim removed.
rimlessremovetrim.jpg

Removing the trim is ardous, and there is high potential of cutting off ones finger
factorysilicone.jpg

In case you have ever wondered "what exactly is underneath the trim" inquiring minds want to know. This takes ALONG time to scrape off
cuttingeggcrate.jpg

Freehand cutting the black eggcrate for the top of the overflows
 
blackeggcrate.jpg

Eggcrate in rows of 2, and hand sanded to become glueable
eggcratedoublerow.jpg

Eggcrate doubled up to reduce opening from 1/2" to 1/4" reduced how many fish will travel down to the sump on an extended vacation or worse to there slow and painful demise.
overflow.jpg

5" x 24" overflow x 2. Each overflow will support 2 x 1.5" bulkhead drains
 
cornersscraped.jpg

Seam scraped clean, prepped for black acrylic end panel
25reveal-1.jpg

Same seam shown with black acrylic end panel .25 reveal to form "ledge" for optional glass covers
overflowpositiononly.jpg

Top view of overflows for position only
overflowcloseup.jpg

Close up of overflow - rounded corners to make cleaning easier
blackendpanel.jpg

End panel ready to glue
 
sandingglass.jpg

If you thought sanding wood was fun try sanding glass sometime its WAY more fun lol I wonder if silica dust is toxic?
panelposition.jpg

checking fit on the 2 blk acrylic panel - Ready to Glue
backpanellayout.jpg

Verifying layout position on back panel before doing ANYTHING else like
CUTTING HOLES (they are really hard to fill ) lol
 
this sounds like a fun one to watch.:biggthumpup:
 
Thanks I keep adding to the difficulty level ;) Im adding a "rail" in between the overflows so i can slide a piece down as a divider so if i have a cool fish spawn i only have to tear down 1/2 the tank:beerchug: The "rail" will hardly be noticeable basically 2 x 1/4" x 1/4" acrylic strip to form a channel to hold the divider in place. Also need to add supports inside the overflows to support eggcrate on top of the drains allowing me use polyfilters, or pura pad as a prefilter. Basically will be an eggcrate shelf about 1" below the top of the overflow, makes is so easy to remove/replace no wet knees and achy breaky back crawling around down in the sump. Just rec my high quality american silicone via CR Laurance so Im ready to reseal as soon as i find some more time!
 
THis is really good silicone bought thru CR Lawerance. It is markedly better than anything you can buy locally. It flows better, applies better, and bonds better.

SILICONE.jpg


Shims i used to glue back panel into place (wedge)
SHIM.jpg


End panel glued in
IMG_0046-1.jpg


Backside of end panel
IMG_0048.jpg


Backpanel glued in with clamps
CLAMPS.jpg
 
enlargedholes.jpg

Enlarged the holes from 1 3/4" to fit a 1.5" bulkhead x 4.

He is a quick video on how to drill a perfect hole in glass without risk.
We drill holes for $30 and that includes the bulkhead. All holes guaranteed!



Just click on image to start the video!:beerchug:
 
video on my modified overflows i cut them down reducing the overall width or protrusion into the tank, and added a custom polyfilter holder.

 
Here is a 20 GL minireef i threw togather one night about 3 yrs ago after an abundance of vodka (in belly not in tank) lol. It has just been sitting around in garage and i had the perfect spot so i set it up last weekend.

IMG_0075.jpg


First critters in the new mini - a pair of 2spot hogfish, pair of 2spot gobies and a couple really nice sea squirts (gobies not pictured)
 

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