Banner image

Equipment for a 90-120g mixed tank (1 Viewer)

R

rlinusc

I contributed!
Lifetime Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Messages
679
Location
Minneapolis
Hello All,

I am planning my 90-120 g reef tank for midApril/May and wanted to get some input on equipment.

Ideally the tank would be bowfront and reef ready, but if not, i would likely get it drilled and put in an overflow box. (Are there LFS that drill tanks?)

Does anyone have recommendations for an internal pump? I was likely thinking of having a 40g or so sump with a 15g refugium in the sump.
I think people mentioned an Eheim heaters as being reliable, i am also planning on using a Reef Octopus skimmer - though what size would people recommend? If i had a 90 with a 40g sump, or a 120 with a 40 g sump? (the 150, or 160INT)

I was also thinking of getting an ATO (Tunze 3155)

Right now i am likely to go with maxspect or radion LED lighting, even though i won't really need that kind of lighting for quite some time, but i figure it will make it easier for me to expand.

for substrate, using aragonite.

What sort of powerheads would people recommend for that size of a tank?

I am a bit wary of getting an Apex controller, mostly because i feel like i need to get to know my tank and have it running the way i want first.
 
Last edited:
rlinusc said:
Hello All,

I am planning my 90-120 g reef tank for midApril/May and wanted to get some input on equipment.

Ideally the tank would be bowfront and reef ready, but if not, i would likely get it drilled and put in an overflow box. (Are there LFS that drill tanks?)
Click to expand...

If you haven't owned a curved tank before, let me warn you that everything is distorted behind curved glass. It also makes cleaning the panel more difficult at times.

Does anyone have recommendations for an internal pump? I was likely thinking of having a 40g or so sump with a 15g refugium in the sump.
I think people mentioned an Eheim heaters as being reliable, i am also planning on using a Reef Octopus skimmer - though what size would people recommend? If i had a 90 with a 40g sump, or a 120 with a 40 g sump? (the 150, or 160INT
Click to expand...

Get the biggest skimmer you can accommodate. (Many people undersize their filtration then wonder why they have nutrient problems.)

What sort of powerheads would people recommend for that size of a tank?
Click to expand...

Jebao RW8s or RW15s. Vortech MP10s or MP40s. Or some non controllable Hydor Koralias.

I am a bit wary of getting an Apex controller, mostly because i feel like i need to get to know my tank and have it running the way i want first.
Click to expand...

This doesn't make much sense to me. The idea of a controller is mostly to prevent tank disasters. You can learn and add all the fancy automation tricks and setups later if you want. In the beginning you can just set it up almost as a timer but with temperature monitoring.

You can also use the controller for an ATO.
 
I second the thoughts of Kepler, without my Apex I would not have found out my plugs for the apex were put back wrong and that my heater was pumping out heat till my sump was reading 92 degrees and that my return pump had shutoff overnight. It was a matter of checking my apex and replacing the plugs were they needed to be and now I have no problems. A controller is a must have for large tanks even if it is not an apex.
 
I have to agree spending the cash on the Apex was hard but looking back now and it is by far the best investment i have ever made for my tank.
 
Hmm i would assume then you would recommend the Apex Standard with lab grade probes and not just the Apex Junior?

My comment was based on the idea of programming and the like.
 
rlinusc said:
Hmm i would assume then you would recommend the Apex Standard with lab grade probes and not just the Apex Junior?

My comment was based on the idea of programming and the like.
Click to expand...

Apex Jr. Is fine as long as you don't need more than 4 plugs. You will also need one of the lab expansions to hook up a float switch.

Digital Aquatics is another option as well.
 
There are a multiple 120gal Build Threads in progress on the forum where you can find out what other people are using for equipment.
Reading through those will help with many of your questions.

My 120gal system has been running for over two years on basically the same equipment.
Tank: Marineland 120gal with Glassholes Overflow and Returns
Sump: Aqueon 40B with custom baffles
Return Pump: Reef Octopus Water Blaster 5000
Skimmer: Reef Octopus Diablo 160XS
Water Pumps: EcoTech Vortechs (MP40's and MP10's)
Controller: DA Reefkeeper Lite (Although I have an Apex waiting for installation!)
ATO Pump: BRS ATO Dosing Pump
Lighting: EcoTech Radion Pro LED fixtures (x2)

Much more detailed info can be found in my build thread.

Good luck!
 
i have already been looking at your build thread and been following it, thanks!

Thanks
 
You really do have a beautiful stand and canopy btw- do you find 2 Radion fixtures necessary because of the kind of corals you are growing? I was thinking of starting with only leathers and maybe mushrooms at first which meant i thought a single LED fixture (and perhaps a T5?) would meet my lighting needs.

How necessary do you think the baffling on the sump would be? I was planning on just making a DIY sump based on a 40 g aquarium in the style of http://www.reefworkshop.com/DIY_sumpdesign1.htm

jlanger said:
Sump: Aqueon 40B with custom baffles
Return Pump: Reef Octopus Water Blaster 5000
Skimmer: Reef Octopus Diablo 160XS
Water Pumps: EcoTech Vortechs (MP40's and MP10's)
Controller: DA Reefkeeper Lite (Although I have an Apex waiting for installation!)
ATO Pump: BRS ATO Dosing Pump
Lighting: EcoTech Radion Pro LED fixtures (x2)

Much more detailed info can be found in my build thread.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
 
I personally run the Apex Jr. the reason being I didn't want to spend that much money on its bigger brother. I currently run my Ca and Alk dosing pumps, heater, and ATO. Float switches are controlled by the break out box but to use the break out box you need the PM1 module. In the end I should probably sprung the extra cash and got the bigger one. I will say though the Jr. so far is fitting my needs with out any issues and I still have a little room to expand if need be.
 
rlinusc said:
Btw- do you find 2 Radion fixtures necessary because of the kind of corals you are growing? I was thinking of starting with only leathers and maybe mushrooms at first which meant i thought a single LED fixture (and perhaps a T5?) would meet my lighting needs.
Click to expand...

The Radion fixtures are really great lights; for each two feet of tank length.
I would think you would want a pair of fixtures on a four foot tank even for soft corals and mushrooms. The spread of any LED fixture is limited by the optics used. And mixing one LED fixture and some T5 bulbs night create an unwanted appearance.
But... If you prefer to use T5 for lighting your tank, there are great lights out there that'll work also.

rlinusc said:
How necessary do you think the baffling on the sump would be? I was planning on just making a DIY sump based on a 40 g aquarium in the style of http://www.reefworkshop.com/DIY_sumpdesign1.htm
Click to expand...

Baffles in a sump can be anything. Or nothing!
Baffles are meant to contain a certain level of water in a specific section of the sump. That's all really.

The problem I have with the sump design in the link is the placement of the skimmer and return pump.
Protein skimmers run best in a constant water level. Having the skimmer in the return chamber (where the water level will fluctuate with evaporation) is a bad location.
I like having my skimmer placed in the first section of my sump so it can filter out as much organics as it can before it can get to other places in the sump. A second section could be used for further filtration/maintenance (reactors). And keep the last section for your return pump.
And for a smaller sump like a 40B, a refugium is really there to create a place for pods and other microfauna to proliferate. Small refugiums don't really make a dent in exporting nutrients. Exporting nutrients is best done with water changes; or an Algae Turf Scrubber (ATS).

Good questions.
 
I prefer LEDs, but was wondering if i needed to double up on the fixture. Sounds like that would be ideal, besides i am very cognizant of getting a bit more than you need when it comes to reefing, rather than trying to get away with "just enough."

I was hoping that by using an ATO system it should keep the water level in the sump level enough for the skimmer. I will keep researching though and maybe fiddle with the design. If that doesn't work, well i can always get a baffled sump. Thanks a ton for your feedback. I am so pumped about this, i haven't been sleeping well, and I won't even be able to start up the tank likely until mid-may! (Closing on a new house, moving in and some basement remodeling all needs to be done first.)
 
rlinusc said:
I am so pumped about this, i haven't been sleeping well, and I won't even be able to start up the tank likely until mid-may!
Click to expand...

You hear that guys (and gals)!!!
WE'VE GOT ANOTHER ONE!!!
Welcome to the club.
 
AND my wife is starting to get curious as well. I am hoping that i can keep encouraging her along, so far so good.
 
I recommend putting at least one baffle in the sump (to create a return section). I tried going baffle-less and I ended up with constant fluctuation of my ATO, skimmer, and drain (Herbie). Draining the sump and siliconing in a baffle after the fact is a PITA.
 
Last edited:
Did you install the custom baffles yourself? Or did you have someone help you? I've been watching videos on how to get it done. (glass on glass, using silicone, etc). My worry is that a) i don't have easy access to get glass cut, and b) it looks really easy to crack the tank when installing them.

I am willing to do the work, but am wondering if someone with more experience can help guide me (and not just through youtube).



 
Welcome to the club and the addiction. I currently run a 40b sump without baffles on my 120 and I don't have any problems like Kepler experienced. I would try to get to some house meetings meetings before you do your build. You will pick up a lot of good ideas. And feel free to PM me if you want to come check out mine. I try to host 2 meetings a year. My next one is in June but may do a bon fire/BBQ get together soon.
 
rlinusc said:
Did you install the custom baffles yourself? Or did you have someone help you? I've been watching videos on how to get it done. (glass on glass, using silicone, etc). My worry is that a) i don't have easy access to get glass cut, and b) it looks really easy to crack the tank when installing them.

I am willing to do the work, but am wondering if someone with more experience can help guide me (and not just through youtube).
Click to expand...

Adding baffles to a sump is very easy.
The glass will be cut short of the interior dimension to leave a small gap. The silicone will fill the gap and hold the glass in place. Any expansion/contraction with the glass will not cause any undue pressure to the sump's sides and you will not risk cracking the tank.

There are plenty of member's that have built their own sumps and worked with glass baffles, so I'm sure there's someone local that could lend a hand.
 
Thanks! i am planning to be there for the Monday meeting. (And bringing my wife too, been showing her pictures to add to the excitement).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Back
Top