Regular heatsinks in a large project such as his will get significantly heavy. there's a larger risk of the rig falling and breaking the tank. having said that I'm curious why "overbuild"... yeah just feeling argumentative
First large tank - 180 reef build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tthorn125
- Start date
Regular heatsinks in a large project such as his will get significantly heavy. there's a larger risk of the rig falling and breaking the tank. having said that I'm curious why "overbuild"... yeah just feeling argumentative
OP
OP
For the price of the 3" vs. the 3/4", I'll spend the extra $30-$40. I do think the heatsink.usa route is overpriced and doesn't provide much value. The weight is a little disturbing, should still be fine for wire cables, but still overkill.
Does someone actually have "direct" experience with using the U-Channels? I'm all about doing the right thing, but logic steps in says that some things are just not value add.
If I put things in perspective, I really don't think that this exact setup will be around in 10 years, so if the lights last me 7 years instead, I'm still well ahead of the game compared to t5's vs. HQI's vs. Halide's.
Right / Wrong?
Does someone actually have "direct" experience with using the U-Channels? I'm all about doing the right thing, but logic steps in says that some things are just not value add.
If I put things in perspective, I really don't think that this exact setup will be around in 10 years, so if the lights last me 7 years instead, I'm still well ahead of the game compared to t5's vs. HQI's vs. Halide's.
Right / Wrong?
OP
OP
I just looked outside the front door and my Drivers were sitting there. I got a couple of Meanwell HLG-185H-42B's for driving the whole LED rig.
holmstar
Senior Member
I have some 3W CREE LEDs running on 3/4" U-channel. With 9 LEDs on a 24" long channel, with the LEDs running at 700ma, the channel just barely gets warm enough to notice that it's any different than ambient.
Now that said, LED efficiency drops off quite a bit as you increase the driving current, so if driven at 1000ma you may get quite a bit more heat. Possibly necessitating active cooling.
Last edited:
OP
OP
I'll have 12 per 24" channel, so they will only be an inch apart from one another. Because I'll have 3 strips of 12 per section, that was an additional reason I went with 3" width.
for a 180G I would consider 4 channels per section... if you plan on optics you will need atleast 4 channels.
I had 5 rows in my setup over the 180G
I had 5 rows in my setup over the 180G
OP
OP
Four sections is a possibility. I ordered 4 strips @ 72" a piece, so that would allow 4 strips per section. I could then attach the sections together with smaller pieces purchased from Menards / Home Depot.
Another topic that doesn't seem to ever get consensus among people: Flow.
Here's my current plan.
I am going to go with 4 Koralia's, 2 x 1050 & 2 x 750. I chose this because I already own them. Along with those I have the Mag12 plumbed through the 4 Loc-lines coming out the top of the overflows. That would give me approximately 25x flow rate.
My question is really on placement. I realize that aquascaping plays a part, but, what type of arrangements are people using for their powerheads? Is it more beneficial to have them facing each other from the side of the tank or to have them angle toward the front from the back of the tank?
What depth are people placing them at? All near the top of the water, mid way down, near the bottom, or mixed?
Another topic that doesn't seem to ever get consensus among people: Flow.
Here's my current plan.
I am going to go with 4 Koralia's, 2 x 1050 & 2 x 750. I chose this because I already own them. Along with those I have the Mag12 plumbed through the 4 Loc-lines coming out the top of the overflows. That would give me approximately 25x flow rate.
My question is really on placement. I realize that aquascaping plays a part, but, what type of arrangements are people using for their powerheads? Is it more beneficial to have them facing each other from the side of the tank or to have them angle toward the front from the back of the tank?
What depth are people placing them at? All near the top of the water, mid way down, near the bottom, or mixed?
powerheads facing each other makes most sense when trying to make waves. otherwise I normally stagger them to get the most flow possible. like you already mentioned.... A LOT depends on your rockwork and eliminating likely dead spots. the pump placement in my tank changed often for about a year until I had the best possible placement to eleminate dead spots
I use two of the Tunze 6200 to help create currents that Tangs like to swin in
I use two of the Tunze 6200 to help create currents that Tangs like to swin in
OP
OP
Part of the problem with my current 75g is that I think there is too much rock work in there and it severely limits the flow. I have the 2 x 1050 and a single 750 in there right now and not a lot of "good" visible flow.
Lesson learned and hopefully I'll have things worked out in the new tank. As far as #'s of live rock, the new tank will have the existing ~ 100 lbs. from the 75 and probably another 100 lbs. of newer stuff. I'm going to be picking up 60 lbs. from Neil so I'll still need about 40 lbs.
In the 75, I used PVC to build a frame that the rock is sitting on. No such frame will be making it's way into the 180...
:beerchug:
Lesson learned and hopefully I'll have things worked out in the new tank. As far as #'s of live rock, the new tank will have the existing ~ 100 lbs. from the 75 and probably another 100 lbs. of newer stuff. I'm going to be picking up 60 lbs. from Neil so I'll still need about 40 lbs.
In the 75, I used PVC to build a frame that the rock is sitting on. No such frame will be making it's way into the 180...
:beerchug:
What do you plan on keeping for corals? That will determine how much flow you need inside the tank also. Personally even with 25x turnover that really is not that much if you decide to keep any SPS in the tank. Otherwise looks like your off to a good start.
I also agree with David, I also would recommend using the large heatsinks instead. With disappaiting heat away from the LED's is the most important part.
I also agree with David, I also would recommend using the large heatsinks instead. With disappaiting heat away from the LED's is the most important part.
OP
OP
Mostly LPS with a few SPS.
OP
OP
Another thought...
Koralia Magnum's are on sale @ some websites online for pretty cheap.
What about running 2 Magnum 8's @ 3250 gph for a total of 6500 gph
or
2 Magnum 7's @ 2700 gph for a total of 5400 gph.
That combined with the Mag12 return would be around 37x or 43x flow respectively in the tank.
Koralia Magnum's are on sale @ some websites online for pretty cheap.
What about running 2 Magnum 8's @ 3250 gph for a total of 6500 gph
or
2 Magnum 7's @ 2700 gph for a total of 5400 gph.
That combined with the Mag12 return would be around 37x or 43x flow respectively in the tank.
What's your budget for powerheads?
If you have the funds I'd recommend vortech MP40s or 60s.
I've never used the magnum Koralias. I have had a good experience with the koralia Evo models.
If you have the funds I'd recommend vortech MP40s or 60s.
I've never used the magnum Koralias. I have had a good experience with the koralia Evo models.
OP
OP
I have the funds, but find it very hard to believe that a $400 power head is worth the money. No offense to anyone, but I've had nothing but a good experience with the Koralia's that I own now.
The Koralia's can be used on a wavemaker / timer as I'm doing it right now on my RKL with the Evolutions. I've read that the Magnum's are in the same boat with the electric start and magnet driven impeller with no shaft.
With that said, if someone wants to sell me some Vortech's or Tunze's for $80 a piece then let's talk.
I can spend the extra $$$ on corals... :beerchug:
The Koralia's can be used on a wavemaker / timer as I'm doing it right now on my RKL with the Evolutions. I've read that the Magnum's are in the same boat with the electric start and magnet driven impeller with no shaft.
With that said, if someone wants to sell me some Vortech's or Tunze's for $80 a piece then let's talk.
I can spend the extra $$$ on corals... :beerchug:
Last edited:
OP
OP
Bought 2 Koralia Magnum 8's for the tank. They can run on RKL controller along with the two 1050 Evolutions. That should give quite a lot of flow in the tank.
OP
OP
Got another 55-60 lbs of rock brewing for the tank in the yet to be baffled sump. Rock picked up today from Neil.
OP
OP
Time to start the wall.
Had a couple of guys over and we cut out a 7 foot section, put in two overkill headers and framed it in. I will frame in the sides/top of the tank when centered and everything is aligned. The frame will be out of 2x6's with a 1/2" on the sides and top so I can sheet rock and put up trim when the time comes to finish the rest of the basement.
Building the stand for the tank to sit on. It's going to have a 12" section around it for me to walk on to be able to reach into the tank.
All that is left is to screw down the plywood and cut out the overflow holes.
Everything is measured, but football is on. Have to have priorities.
:beerchug:
Had a couple of guys over and we cut out a 7 foot section, put in two overkill headers and framed it in. I will frame in the sides/top of the tank when centered and everything is aligned. The frame will be out of 2x6's with a 1/2" on the sides and top so I can sheet rock and put up trim when the time comes to finish the rest of the basement.
Building the stand for the tank to sit on. It's going to have a 12" section around it for me to walk on to be able to reach into the tank.
All that is left is to screw down the plywood and cut out the overflow holes.
Everything is measured, but football is on. Have to have priorities.
:beerchug:
OP
OP
So I worked on the stand between the football games on Sunday and before that embarrassment that happened yesterday.
Got the plywood cut to correct size.
Cut the holes out for the overflows and 2x6's left for the outside frame and screwed it down. Level front to back and left to right. Maybe a slight angle towards the front, but not enough to notice without extreme scrutiny.
Also added a small HOB skimmer on the rock to keep the quality good.
Just need to find 3 other guys willing to help move the tank from the garage to the basement. Should have family lined up for this week.
:beerchug:
Got the plywood cut to correct size.
Cut the holes out for the overflows and 2x6's left for the outside frame and screwed it down. Level front to back and left to right. Maybe a slight angle towards the front, but not enough to notice without extreme scrutiny.
Also added a small HOB skimmer on the rock to keep the quality good.
Just need to find 3 other guys willing to help move the tank from the garage to the basement. Should have family lined up for this week.
:beerchug:
OP
OP
Baby steps, not intentionally though.
Tank is now in it's new home.
Tank is now in it's new home.
OP
OP
No updates yet. Electric wiring probably won't be until next weekend.