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has anyone built a tank before? (1 Viewer)

You have definitely thought this through a bit.

Lets say you use 1"x1"x.1/4" angle, if you use a matching aluminum bar stock I would guess 1"x1/4" stock. The only thing that would concern me about this is that it is much stronger and better at resisting bending when put on edge so that it is only 1/4" surface on the glass, which causes a stress point on the bottom glass. So instead you put it in with the flat surface against the glass... Well, i'm not sure how well that is going to hold up against pressure, I cant remember the tensile strength of the aluminum. but this also makes me a bit nervous considering it doesn't take much bowing in glass for it to give in and just shatter all over the place, it can not take that kind of stress. 1/4" bottom for a 275g tank... I dunno bout that. I will have to go down to my shop tomorrow and try to find a 36" piece of aluminum stock and i'll set it on some supports then put some weight in the middle, i'll let you know if a few hundred lbs will flex it down. If it does, I wouldnt suggest it...

If you want I could run some stress analysis on a bottom structure for you if you want, let me know the size of angle iron, size of bar stock, and how many you would like strapping across the bottom and I will run the weight of water against that surface to see if it bends or what its safety rating is. That would also have to be done tomorrow. It wouldn't be the absolute most accurate but it will give you a very good idea, I don't have the time at work to put in all the radii on the angle and such to get it "exact"

as for overflow, considering you are getting custom built (risk), going with thinner than suggested glass (risk)... I would not add another risk by reducing strength of the back wall by taking out notches. internal may take away from looks a bit, but that can be hidden with creative rockwork.
 
Those proposed demension are so so similiar to the perfecto 36" wide tanks ( ( 60L X 27H X 36W or the 72L X 27H X 36W ) that I wouldn't even bother going custom for the tank itself. Since your not in a hurry just wait until factory sale happens between now and then. Let Fritz or Li at Saltwater Empire know to look for a special to come along between now and then.

They have the 300g sitting on the showroom now if you want to take a look at it that they will be using as a fish only display.

I believe Dirk also has one in storage too that may get a good price on.....
 
1. really the tank IS the cheapest part of the whole hobby.
2. the metal frame you are talking about is going to rust over time, Even if its powder coated and fall into your tank.
3. have it welded first then have him build it into the frame or when it gets welded it will pit the glass.
4. buying a tank is some much easier and less risky.

Keep us up to date on your build would like to know how it goes.:greenguy:
 
David Grigor said:
Those proposed demension are so so similiar to the perfecto 36" wide tanks ( ( 60L X 27H X 36W or the 72L X 27H X 36W ) that I wouldn't even bother going custom for the tank itself. Since your not in a hurry just wait until factory sale happens between now and then. Let Fritz or Li at Saltwater Empire know to look for a special to come along between now and then.

They have the 300g sitting on the showroom now if you want to take a look at it that they will be using as a fish only display.

I believe Dirk also has one in storage too that may get a good price on.....
Click to expand...

I'm not moving another 300 Gallon Sorry Firtz:gay1:
 
kaladun- The strapping on the bottom frame will be flat against the bottom of the tank. The tank will not be simply supported on only the edges, but will be supported across the entire bottom. If I put strapping every 6 inches, I am not worried at all about the glass.

spectrum - I'm going aluminum, so I wont have to worry about rust. I am also having it welded and ground first to eliminate potential stress riser points. In addition, I will be putting a high strength neoprene/rubber between the metal and glass to reduce possibility of these stress risers.

I also know that this tank will be quite similar to tanks that one could purchase. However, part of this isn't necessarily cost motivated. I'm an engineer and I like to build things and tinker. The thought of building my own tank is pretty cool. I'm helping a friend build some 8'x3'x13" frag tanks, so I'll be honing my skills on these less critical tanks. I believe a 60" gives 250 gallons, and 72" gives 300 gallons. The only thing that would make me purchase instead of make is if I decide that I like the extra 6" length a great deal more. I think the 60L X 27H X 36W tank just isn't long enough, but I don't feel comfortable making a 72" long tank (safety factor gets too low for my comfort). I appreciate all the help on this, keep the thoughts coming!
 
I thought that too when I built my 375g tank from plywood and glass. But now that there are non-custom out there for just a small % more than what I put into, I'd feel proud enough just doing the inwall and stand part myself. The project got old before it was done and had plenty of other work for the tank to be done in addition. It ended up being built like a army tank but still had that wierd feeling everytime walking down those stairs wondering if its still there or not.....

Honestly a tank that size 6" lengthwise is pretty petty one way or the other.....60" definately has some real advantages when it comes to lighting as Any lighting suitable for 48" tank will also work without additional costs. When going longer the 60" the cost and electricity will go up from a lighting perspective because.
 
How thick is the glass on the 36" deep Perfecto? What is this safety factor formula, on RC or something? Just curious.
 
for me that on a large show I'd use either 60"L or 96"L long. inbetween is kind of no mans land with it comes to T5s which is what I'd run.
 
I have an excel spreadsheet calculation program. I found the original version online, but had to modify it to make it "live". They had you running one calculation at a time, but now I can change sizes of tanks and in real time get results on the minimum thickness. The safety factor was another value I found online. Tank builders recommend a 3.8 SF, however a standard 210 gallon tank has a SF of 2.0. Also in my calculations I used the very low conservative value of the tensile strength of glass rather than the average. All-in-all I'm being fairly conservative in my calculations.

David- I see what you mean now. Seeing as how I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet (and finances are getting tight) my plans *might* need to go on hold.

I'm thinking that anything this big would benefit from starfire glass. Though may neighbor can get it, I'd have to pay a pretty penny for it. Then it doesn't make nearly the economic sense anymore. I'm still keeping my eyes peeled for a marineland tank sale in the mean time. We'll see which one happens first!
 
Curlyq, I completely understand the engineering thing and having to tinker/build stuff. I am in the same boat, thus the reason I have a 75g custom stand in construction in my garage right now. Sure it is taking a while but in the end I will be much happier (and better off money wise) than if I had bought a stand and canopy, my only concern is getting it out of my parking spot before snow ;)

I say if your able, build it, sure there is pride in the other stuff you would make for it, but why stop with the other stuff? When people come over and say "where did you get that?" I find it better to say that I made it, and the more you made, the better!
 
DG- I can understand the T5 justification for the size of tank. My wife happens to like the look of the shimmer, so she wants MH. A buddy of mine down here wants me to go 3x400 - but he wouldn't have to pay my elec. bill would he!! I still need to relay to my wife that MH's on a tank this size likely means chiller = more $$ in elec. We'll see....

Kaluden- I'm definitely a tinkerer. The stand/hood will also be custom. I've found that it's not always cost effective though. The money I spent on building my stand for my 30ga cube I could have probably bought one. However, when I build things myself I get it exactly how I want it. That's the best part of DIY.
 
No, things do not always mean they are cheaper when you build them. Especially if you factored in the time you spent building it at the cost that a shop would usually charge (most manufacturing shops charge 80-100/hour for labor) so in fact the main purpose in my opinion of DIY is to get it exactly how you want it, if you save money while doing it, fantastic, if not, you got an awesome thing that is exactly what you wanted.
 
Even with MH, you can light a 60" with same number as you would with 48" tank, but any longer and now you have to add another for sure.

Well ventaliated canopy/fish room and chiller likely won't be needed. Location can help too ( if in basement ). I used 5X400W and never needed a chiller. Fish room had a good window vent to bring in that cool MN night air, Lighting schedule was offset to to take advantage of that so lights didn't come on until around 5PM and lasted through the early AM. Tank never got over 83. Also worked out well in winter too becuase the lights were on during the cold nights to add heat so tank heater didn't work as hard.


Good luck with it. I'll never do it again. Been there done that. Project dragged on forever it seemed.
 
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DG, *IF* you were to do MH on a 60 or 66 inch tank, how many would you do? I was thinking 3, so then I'd have 2 cross braces. If only 2 bulbs then I'd have 1 brace (prefer two braces for strength). If I do T5's I'd offset slightly so the edges dimmer than the middle.
 
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