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Interesting Read on AI Sol Super Blue (1 Viewer)

Kepler

Former: Koletang
Joined
Apr 12, 2011
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Location
Woodbury, MN
I thought I would post this as I have seen a few people having issues with their Sols.

I found this thread on RC. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2109573 I am only a few pages in, but this information is very useful to a new/skeptical Sol user.

Like the original poster, I too was getting *suspicious* of burning up my corals when my lights were only at 33/35/35. I was very confused so I did some research and found this thread.

For some reason these lights can trick you into thinking you are burning your corals from too much light when it is quite the contrary. Many people were reporting that the corals started to look worse before they started looking better. (looking worse at around 30-50% and better in the 60-90% range) (Although one should take note of other variables such as how high the lights hang above the tank, how many units per feet of tank, depth of tank, etc)

It was also mentioned that if you raise your lights to the % you want over too long of a period of time (ie. 3 months) it can be just as detrimental as blasting them with light from the beginning.

If you are having Sol issues or are worried about having issues, then I recommend taking a moment to read the thread.
 
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Good stuff....Lot's of LED haters over there that will have a good time with this. I don't own AI's but it's great for someone to do some actual research, and get some facts to back up the issues or success with these units.
 
Thanks for the post. Interesting read. I own the sol and love it.I was pre warned to take it slow when ramping up the lights. They (SWE) recommend to start at 30% or lower and increase by 5 every week. If bleaching starts to happen back off and allow more time to acclimate or move corals to a different location. LED may potentially have higher outputs in different areas. My corals look fine so far but my output is only at 40%.
 
I'm sticking with MH until the rest of the club figures out LED:gay1:[/QQUOT
You can do better than that.....I want to feel inferior and stupid please!

L O L, I'm actually very tempted to go with LED. My MH 250Ws are power hogs and generate a lot of heat. Absolutely love my corals (color & growth) under the MHs, but I really hope LEDs win the day long term... and I'm pretty sure they will.
 
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L O L, I'm actually very tempted to go with LED. My MH 250Ws are power hogs and generate a lot of heat. Absolutely love my corals (color & growth) under the MHs, but I really hope LEDs win the day long term... and I'm pretty sure they will.

I'm kidding....MH is tried and true with good color rep and growth. Everyone should stick to what works for them, I'm pretty sure I see I need to raid some of your zoas and palys.
 
[ I'm actually very tempted to go with LED. My MH 250Ws are power hogs and generate a lot of heat.


If you really run the numbers there isn't much direct electrical savings. For most it's only about $5 a month savings from MH to LED. The only significant savings would be bulb replacment, even then thats on the assumption you will keep the LEDs and they won't fail before 7+ years. I can't speak for anyone else but the chances I don't switch to something else in the next 7 years is pretty slim, I like to try new things and lots can change by that time. So never really expect any kind of savings.

Heat, well that's really the main reason to justify a switch. If you having temp issues particularly in the summer months even after keeping them well ventalated that is more of a valid reason. Becuase a tank crash can mean thousands of $ lost that can't be predicted.
 
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If you really run the numbers there isn't much direct electrical savings. For most it's only about $5 a month savings from MH to LED. The only significant savings would be bulb replacment, even then thats on the assumption you will keep the LEDs and they won't fail before 7+ years. I can't speak for anyone else but the chances I don't switch to something else in the next 7 years is pretty slim, I like to try new things and lots can change by that time. So never really expect any kind of savings.

Heat, well that's really the main reason to justify a switch. If you having temp issues particularly in the summer months even after keeping them well ventalated that is more of a valid reason. Becuase a tank crash can mean thousands of $ lost that can't be predicted.

Wow, interesting. I haven't researched LEDs much to this point, but I was expecting more of a difference in power usage. As for the heat, my tank temp spikes pretty high during the summer when I have the MHs on. That's one thing I would love to eliminate. I plan to start reading up on LEDs. Going to take my time with this change to make sure I make the right decision for my situation. Thanks for the feedback!
 
You also have much more control. Ramping up little by little in the morning is much more natural for the fish than the "sun" just turning on and off.

You also can change the colors little by little until you get the perfect combo. Rather than buying a new $22-$100 bulb every time you want to change the color.
 
Great post. I've been all over the place with my Sols, to the point where LI finally just wrote down a schedule for me to use that has worked for him, and his sol. I would disagree on there not being much savings. My metal halides easily put my electrical bill up 30 dollars a month with 250 watts vs my leds pushing 25 watts right now.... not to mention I dont have to run a power hog of a chiller anymore....
 
Myclang what do you run your lights at during it's peak? And for how long? I just got my sol and curious what successful reefers are running them at.
 
I was doing some more reading. There is a lot of confusion between how much PAR the Sols put out and what optics are best. It also adds to the confusion that the LEDs (especially blue) play tricks on the PAR meter.

Right now I am just adding 5% each week. I am aiming for 60%-70% range with 8" above water level. But we'll see how it goes.

I have noticed that the sol stinks at bringing out the Reds and yellows in corals, especially Acros. I am thinking about mounting a 2' Purple+ or Fiji Purple bulb on the Sols to bring out those colors.

Myclang what do you run your lights at during it's peak? And for how long? I just got my sol and curious what successful reefers are running them at.

Remember there are a lot of variables. ie., Reefer A has his two Sols running at 90% over his 4 foot tank. But Reefer B has his 3 Sols Running at 65% over his 4 foot tank.
 
Ok sounds good..I was thinking the same as you 60 to 70..mine hangs 5 in over my 60 gal cube..(24 x24 x24)
 
AaronBliss- I have my sols mounted 12" above the water line, and my tank is 22" deep. Plus I swapped the 40 deg lenses out for all 70s for better spread. I was told to run this schedule by LI, since its working for him


8am-12: Ramp only blue to 60%
9am-12: ramp white and Royal Blue to 60%
12-1205: hold all 3 levels at 60%
1205-10pm: ramp down to 0.

So every hour all 3 levels are coming down by 6%.
 
I like the way that sounds. I will raise my lights up a bit more to get better spread. Thanks. By the way do you use the lunar mode to simulate night time or just completely shut them off? I like having the lunar mode on so i can still see the tank glow when im up late. Do you know if that is detrimental to my fish/coral health or growth??
 
I personally do not, a lot of others have their blue or RB setting around 5-10% but no its not harmful at all, I just turn them off to help conserve on the pucks and electrical bill. :D
 
Great post. I've been all over the place with my Sols, to the point where LI finally just wrote down a schedule for me to use that has worked for him, and his sol. I would disagree on there not being much savings. My metal halides easily put my electrical bill up 30 dollars a month with 250 watts vs my leds pushing 25 watts right now.... not to mention I dont have to run a power hog of a chiller anymore....

Don't have any clue where you are getting your numbers from,

250W X 10 hours at day at .1 per kwh would be $7 a month.

While LEDs may be more effecient no way you can't get 90% effeciency.

Chiller, properly ventraliated and central A/C you shouldn't need a chiller. If if you do, offset the costs by how much more your heater have to run in the winter.

I didn't run a chiller and by the time I accounted for the heater increases ( 900w ) running more often, electicity was a total wash at best for LEDs.


I'm glad you like them, but any significant electirical savings just isn't there. Especially to account for thousands of upfront costs for a show sized tank. While there are plenty of other reasons for LED, elecitical saving isn't a significant factor.
 
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