Front and side tank shots.
Coral.[b/]
Thanks to SWE for the 'Metallic Green' zoanthids and Duncans!
The lower bulkhead is the main drain. The gate valve controls the height of the water in the overflow and insures no air is sucked in, meaning the water enters the sump with no splashing or bubbling (with or without the filter sock). Supposedly this is called the "Herbie method".
The upper bulkhead is the emergency drain; the internal pipe is the same height as the overflow and normally the water level is about two inches below that level.
The main drain enters the sump through a 100-micron filter sock, the emergency drain enters directly into the sump. Our skimmer is an EuroReef RS80, the newer model with the wedge-pipe, with little modification.
The middle section of the sump has room for some chaeto, our original clump all dissolved during the tank swap. The TLF Phosban Reactor contains both some Phosban and carbon, which isn't necessarily the best way to run things, but it works well enough.
The return pump is a Quiet One 4000. The gate valve allows us to adjust how much water is going in to the tank, but it is currently 100% open since the drain can handle everything. The T assembly above the gate valve allows us to pump water from the sump directly to a drain in the floor, making water changes a breeze.
The rest of the pictures can be found here.
And now the bad news. Our McCosker's wrasse managed to find his way out of the 1/2" gap between our screen tops and the tank trim, where the cord for our Tunze 6025 was, and we found him yesterday night behind the water softener. We've now modified the screens so there are no gaps or open spaces, so hopefully we won't have any future jumpers.
Our chromis appear lonely today and the tank looks fairly empty without the red blur, so we would like to find another wrasse to replace the McCosker's. Considering that both of our wrasses were sold to us as Carpenter's and neither turned out to actually BE Carpenter's, we're looking at purchasing them through a reliable source. Any suggestions for replacement wrasses and sources would be appreciated!
Cheers
C & M
Coral.[b/]
Thanks to SWE for the 'Metallic Green' zoanthids and Duncans!
The lower bulkhead is the main drain. The gate valve controls the height of the water in the overflow and insures no air is sucked in, meaning the water enters the sump with no splashing or bubbling (with or without the filter sock). Supposedly this is called the "Herbie method".
The upper bulkhead is the emergency drain; the internal pipe is the same height as the overflow and normally the water level is about two inches below that level.
The main drain enters the sump through a 100-micron filter sock, the emergency drain enters directly into the sump. Our skimmer is an EuroReef RS80, the newer model with the wedge-pipe, with little modification.
The middle section of the sump has room for some chaeto, our original clump all dissolved during the tank swap. The TLF Phosban Reactor contains both some Phosban and carbon, which isn't necessarily the best way to run things, but it works well enough.
The return pump is a Quiet One 4000. The gate valve allows us to adjust how much water is going in to the tank, but it is currently 100% open since the drain can handle everything. The T assembly above the gate valve allows us to pump water from the sump directly to a drain in the floor, making water changes a breeze.
The rest of the pictures can be found here.
And now the bad news. Our McCosker's wrasse managed to find his way out of the 1/2" gap between our screen tops and the tank trim, where the cord for our Tunze 6025 was, and we found him yesterday night behind the water softener. We've now modified the screens so there are no gaps or open spaces, so hopefully we won't have any future jumpers.
Our chromis appear lonely today and the tank looks fairly empty without the red blur, so we would like to find another wrasse to replace the McCosker's. Considering that both of our wrasses were sold to us as Carpenter's and neither turned out to actually BE Carpenter's, we're looking at purchasing them through a reliable source. Any suggestions for replacement wrasses and sources would be appreciated!
Cheers
C & M
