Riley's 1000 gallon fish room build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Riley
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acharpenter
Pitas' Pita
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Marty always has some kind of envy
I'm thinking total understatement - Kev would have murdered me by know lol
This is awesome - when can I come over??
Riley's plumbing and layout is insane
jontys sump room is cleaner and more organized than operating rooms
Dave DT is overly clean, always
James variety of live stock is great
Chris needs to do drugs to level the playing field
Lots of great systems in the club.
jontys sump room is cleaner and more organized than operating rooms
Dave DT is overly clean, always
James variety of live stock is great
Chris needs to do drugs to level the playing field
Lots of great systems in the club.
I like it a lot so far. One thing I really wish it has was power cross feed, but other than that, it seems like good small lathe. There are a lot of better lathes out there, but not at this price. I looked for better used lathes first, but they were really beat to hell to get closer to my budget.
That's what I have been finding too. Looks like a fun tool.
I just can't wait to see her wet! Riley very awesome build.
Thanks for the kind words from everyone so far.
Anytime you're going to be by my side of town, give me a heads up and feel free to stop by. It's been a few years since I've last seen you.
Anytime you're going to be by my side of town, give me a heads up and feel free to stop by. It's been a few years since I've last seen you.
The plumbing exits the filter room through the wall and is split between tanks. The plumbing goes through a 2" x 1.5" reducing tee, then to a gate valve where I can adjust to have either tank circulating, or use one to balance out both tanks circulating at once.
Here is how I set up the tanks with cinder blocks. The tanks aren't really self-supporting, so made a flat surface and I raised them up to a more manageable height to make reaching in easier. I can reach all the way to the center of the tanks now.
The advantage of round tanks is they can be setup with center drains, and the circular motion of the current pulls all the suspended waste inward, giving the tank a self-cleaning feature in that regard. I am going to be playing with how it draws, but the plan is to have small length of wellscreen or drilled pipe toward the bottom, and a protected opening from the top, so that it draws from multiple locations in the water column.
The tank drain is 2" and exits into a 3" line which connects to the sump. The ball valve is what allows me to have one tank full while the other one is empty, or to run both.
Here is how I set up the tanks with cinder blocks. The tanks aren't really self-supporting, so made a flat surface and I raised them up to a more manageable height to make reaching in easier. I can reach all the way to the center of the tanks now.
The advantage of round tanks is they can be setup with center drains, and the circular motion of the current pulls all the suspended waste inward, giving the tank a self-cleaning feature in that regard. I am going to be playing with how it draws, but the plan is to have small length of wellscreen or drilled pipe toward the bottom, and a protected opening from the top, so that it draws from multiple locations in the water column.
The tank drain is 2" and exits into a 3" line which connects to the sump. The ball valve is what allows me to have one tank full while the other one is empty, or to run both.
MarineAddict
Senior Member
any plans to put any sort of "skin" over the bottom cinder blocks? just curious for the aesthetics of it really.
Sump: It is a 70 gallon aquaculture sump from Aquatic Ecosystems that is used as a junction for the main tanks and the filtration. Truthfully I didn't really need a sump, but it simplifies the plumbing a bit by allowing independent flowrates of the two filter loops vs one, and allows the pressurized line from the bead filter feed the tanks vs the gravity return coming from the skimmer.
After installing bulkhead and valve unions: (taken before running the 3" drain between the tanks)
Which hook up to Reeflo gold pumps, set up as Snapper for the skimmer, and Hammerhead for the bead filter and circulation:
To give you an idea of the size of the 3" bulkhead, here it is with a 2" and 3/4"
For maintenance & ect, I put a 3" true union ball valve next to the sump on the 3" drain line to make things easier, instead of running the pipe right into a regular union into the bulkhead. This will also allow me to disconnect and remove the sump if I ever needed to.
Here is a 1/2", 2", and 3" for comparison:
After installing bulkhead and valve unions: (taken before running the 3" drain between the tanks)
Which hook up to Reeflo gold pumps, set up as Snapper for the skimmer, and Hammerhead for the bead filter and circulation:
To give you an idea of the size of the 3" bulkhead, here it is with a 2" and 3/4"
For maintenance & ect, I put a 3" true union ball valve next to the sump on the 3" drain line to make things easier, instead of running the pipe right into a regular union into the bulkhead. This will also allow me to disconnect and remove the sump if I ever needed to.
Here is a 1/2", 2", and 3" for comparison:
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Probably not. I did run the perimeter of the bottom row of standard cinder blocks facing up so that the flat side would be out and look better. To run the bottom drain, the second row of bricks needed to be a certain height and they didn't have a brick with that dimension that allowed a flat side to face out as well.
Also, if anyone is curious - the white pipes on the top of the tanks are to hold tarps during testing, so they don't sag in the water. I may also use the same setup to hold up nets when it is all up and running.
I thought real men plumbed with 3" pipe? Oh wait, that was 4". You win.
http://www.tcmas.org/v4/forums/showthread.php?53258-Real-men-plumb-with-4-quot-pipe
http://www.tcmas.org/v4/forums/showthread.php?53258-Real-men-plumb-with-4-quot-pipe
The impressive part isn't the size of those connections, it's that you have a can of RC ColaSump: It is a 70 gallon aquaculture sump from Aquatic Ecosystems that is used as a junction for the main tanks and the filtration. Truthfully I didn't really need a sump, but it simplifies the plumbing a bit by allowing independent flowrates of the two filter loops vs one, and allows the pressurized line from the bead filter feed the tanks vs the gravity return coming from the skimmer.
After installing bulkhead and valve unions: (taken before running the 3" drain between the tanks)
Which hook up to Reeflo gold pumps, set up as Snapper for the skimmer, and Hammerhead for the bead filter and circulation:
To give you an idea of the size of the 3" bulkhead, here it is with a 2" and 3/4"
For maintenance & ect, I put a 3" true union ball valve next to the sump on the 3" drain line to make things easier, instead of running the pipe right into a regular union into the bulkhead. This will also allow me to disconnect and remove the sump if I ever needed to.
Here is a 1/2", 2", and 3" for comparison:
Thanks. I try to use RC for all my size comparisons when I can. I absolutely love the stuff.
System water changes will come from the backwash valve of the bead filter. Since the room doesn't have a floor drain, the water will be put in a large brute trashcan and wheeled over to the nearby mechanical room and drained. Any addition tank cleaning will have to follow the same method. It isn't ideal, but there isn't an easy way to connect a drain to the house from the fish room.
Top off will be housed in an adjacent room closet that buts up to the fish room from a vertical 105 gallon tank. Still need to figure out where I want to put a mixing station, in the same closet or in the mechanical room of the basement where I can also feed the empty family room 180 that is upstairs. Most of this paragraph is to be determined at the moment.
Top off will be housed in an adjacent room closet that buts up to the fish room from a vertical 105 gallon tank. Still need to figure out where I want to put a mixing station, in the same closet or in the mechanical room of the basement where I can also feed the empty family room 180 that is upstairs. Most of this paragraph is to be determined at the moment.
For maintenance & ect, I put a 3" true union ball valve next to the sump on the 3" drain line to make things easier, instead of running the pipe right into a regular union into the bulkhead. This will also allow me to disconnect and remove the sump if I ever needed to.
I think your bulkhead is larger than my fish tank.
Is there a soda can next to it for comparison? lol