no carbon block? I know on mt 5 stage brs I have the sediment filter like that then a one with white ring and other with a purple ring. prob just a brand to brand. jsut know one of them takes out chlorine and if your in city you may want that fyi
For sure, and why it's important to change out your carbon. If chlorine reaches your membrane it eats it so you want to be darn sure. I believe one of the reasons why some RO units come with 2 carbon blocks to help dummy proof. One is really only needed if you change when your supposed to.
To reduce clogging the carbon, the better sediment you use and change out frequently the longer the carbon will last before clogging and get the most life out of it. Since sediment is much cheaper than the carbon block it's best to stay on top of your sediment changing.
For many that have moderate use, the carbon will likely clog before it's fully exhausted but should come up with a realistic time based on your approx use and waste water. For example: 100g a month waste of 400g a month so carbon rated at 6K gallons should last 10 months ( or if pressure get low whichever comes first ) write that on a calendar or a tag on the unit. For many users the every 6 month general quideline is wasteful of both carbon and $.
To reduce clogging the carbon, the better sediment you use and change out frequently the longer the carbon will last before clogging and get the most life out of it. Since sediment is much cheaper than the carbon block it's best to stay on top of your sediment changing.
For many that have moderate use, the carbon will likely clog before it's fully exhausted but should come up with a realistic time based on your approx use and waste water. For example: 100g a month waste of 400g a month so carbon rated at 6K gallons should last 10 months ( or if pressure get low whichever comes first ) write that on a calendar or a tag on the unit. For many users the every 6 month general quideline is wasteful of both carbon and $.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Myclang
BOOM BOOM
I think mine is only a 4 stage BRS RO/DI. has those 3 filters, then goes into membrane, then through DI chamber. So there should be a Carbon chamber before the actual RO unit? This helps keep sediment filter from clogging so fast?
Sediment ( cheapest filter ) protects the carbon ( more expensive ) which protects the membrane ( most expensive ).
Some units have 2 carbons ( to help dummy proof and ensure you don't ruin the membrane ) while others just have 1. Two aren't really necessary if you stay up on your maintenance. Mine was originally a Kent Maixima ( 1996 ) and only has one.
If you have 2 carbons, your probably better served to replumb after carbon 1 to go to membrane. The out of membrane to the old carbon 2 and put DI in it.
Some units have 2 carbons ( to help dummy proof and ensure you don't ruin the membrane ) while others just have 1. Two aren't really necessary if you stay up on your maintenance. Mine was originally a Kent Maixima ( 1996 ) and only has one.
If you have 2 carbons, your probably better served to replumb after carbon 1 to go to membrane. The out of membrane to the old carbon 2 and put DI in it.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Myclang
BOOM BOOM
Well I just checked. I do have the 5 stage RO/DI that bulk reef sells. First one is sediment block, then the next two are 5 micron carbon block, and the next is a .6 micron carbon block, then through membrane, and then passes through DI chamber. Ok mine is dummy proof. After seeing my sediment filter alone. I think I'll be on a 10 month change out plan. Looks like my tank has been filled with a bucket of nails!
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-5-stage-ro-di-replacement-filter-kit.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-5-stage-ro-di-replacement-filter-kit.html
If you haven't ordered the second DI yet and want to save money, You can replumb and use the spare carbon for your another DI. Keep using the .6 micron and discontinue the larger one.
That is as long as your not calling yourself a dummy.......
That is as long as your not calling yourself a dummy.......
Last edited:
OP
OP
Myclang
BOOM BOOM
So um.... How about my sediment filters? I did not think they were as bad as I thought, until I took them out.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Yep, sediment is the cheapest and should be replaced the most often. You can see the other filter is getting dirty. If you keep up on the sediment it will make the carbon last longer and less likely to clog.
I do mine based on visual. Once it gets dark in color I swap it out usually about every 3 months but I use a lot of water about 250g a month.
I do mine based on visual. Once it gets dark in color I swap it out usually about every 3 months but I use a lot of water about 250g a month.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Myclang
BOOM BOOM
Sorry. Not sure why Tapatalk reposted my photo. I'm not a dummy but I'm glad to know theres another filter in place to help protect my membrane while I'm still in the learning stages of my ro /Di. I'll purchase an extra di resin and sediment filter to have on hand.
I'm hoping that with a few water changes my diatoms dissappear. Really hoping that tds creep is what's feeding this eye sore.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
I'm hoping that with a few water changes my diatoms dissappear. Really hoping that tds creep is what's feeding this eye sore.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
what does every one think of the PSI? good psi? high low? i have been running the 60 psi latley and priducing much better then the standard inconsistent pressure on my well water 30-45
OP
OP
Myclang
BOOM BOOM
Anything above 50 is good.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2