Water change eureka Simple changes that make reef life easier (1 Viewer)

[HouseofStark]

My mixing station...has sensors in the tanks, so RODI unit turns on and runs when low sensor is dry, runs until full, top sensor wet, then off. ATO pump pulls out of this container directly to tank to top off.

Now for saltwater side, when empty, I put in 12 cups of salt, and press "transfer" button, and turn cepex valve which sends rodi into salt mixing container....fills until top sensor is wet, which turns off pump (correct amount of RODI/salt to get to get 1.026). Turn valve back to "recirculating" from "transfer" and press button that runs pump for 6 hours to mix new saltwater. Pump has code to run 30 mins every 12 hours to stir new salt mix. Overnight 2:30am-4:30am have DOS pull and dump to drain OLD water, and same time add NEW saltwater.

When saltwater mix is out/low sensor dry, I get a notification and AWC stops until new batch is made.

 

[Varig]

Keep in mind I am using the cold air return.

Hrm..noted. Mine would be supply lines. The volume in the lines would be pretty small, so presumably wouldn't make huge swings in tank temp even if the lines got hot/cold. But I guess I don't love the idea of putting in locally "very hot" water.

I guess it might be back to ceiling removals, SDS plus drilling, etc. Hooray.

 

[spsick]

Hrm..noted. Mine would be supply lines. The volume in the lines would be pretty small, so presumably wouldn't make huge swings in tank temp even if the lines got hot/cold. But I guess I don't love the idea of putting in locally "very hot" water.

I guess it might be back to ceiling removals, SDS plus drilling, etc. Hooray.

Maybe if you ran 2x 1/4” lines sleeved in a bigger hose. My concern would be a combination of heating water too much and precipitating, and what heating up polyethylene lines releases into said water.

 

[ikserk]

Maybe if you ran 2x 1/4” lines sleeved in a bigger hose. My concern would be a combination of heating water too much and precipitating, and what heating up polyethylene lines releases into said water.

I know there are building codes against this. People also use ducting to run Ethernet cables through the house. Technical term for that space is "plenum". There are plenum rated Ethernet cables for this job.

The concern with plenum space and cables is what they release naturally and during a fire since whatever it is, gets blown and circulated through the whole house. At least thats my understanding of the reasoning.

Take it for what it's worth

 

[zoolan70]

I know there are building codes against this. People also use ducting to run Ethernet cables through the house. Technical term for that space is "plenum". There are plenum rated Ethernet cables for this job.

The concern with plenum space and cables is what they release naturally and during a fire since whatever it is, gets blown and circulated through the whole house. At least thats my understanding of the reasoning.

Take it for what it's worth

Correct on the Plemum-rating, though there is some nuance. Plenum-rated anything has to be made of materials that do not give off toxic gases when burning (or exceeding a certain temp), for the exact reason you noted. If there is a fire, you don't want to be pumping massive amounts of toxin around. While code says you cannot use non-Plenum-rated materials in a duct in your house, in reality, if you have a house fire, and the cables or whatever in the duct are burning, it is the least of your problems. In commercial use, you have the real possibility of a fire in a plenum space that isn't detected anywhere else, hence the need for the code.

Where you could run into trouble would a home inspection if you were going to sell, but pulling the RO size lines out is trivial to solve the issue.

 

[zoolan70]

Here is my setup...please ignore the mass chaos of the room as I'm remodeling my basement. RO unit is across the room and feeds the top tank via the ceiling. The bottom of the top tank is drilled and empties via a ball valve into the bottom tank.


The bottom tank has a Vetra M2 to mix and circulate the water.

I store my hose on a hose reel and built a j-hook that goes into my tank and removes the correct amount of water. I just drop it into the tank and suck on the other end and drop it down the furnace floor drain.



When it is time to refill the tank, I take the end out of the drain and screw it onto the outlet on the mixing tank piping and flip 2 valves. Viola! Water goes upstairs and fills the tank. I let it fill until it reaches a mark on the tank and then shut it off. The only thing I need to be aware of lifting the J-hook out of the water, or it immediately starts to siphon back down. Flip back on the return pumps for the tank and roll the hose back up, and I'm done.

 

[ikserk]

Correct on the Plemum-rating, though there is some nuance. Plenum-rated anything has to be made of materials that do not give off toxic gases when burning (or exceeding a certain temp), for the exact reason you noted. If there is a fire, you don't want to be pumping massive amounts of toxin around. While code says you cannot use non-Plenum-rated materials in a duct in your house, in reality, if you have a house fire, and the cables or whatever in the duct are burning, it is the least of your problems. In commercial use, you have the real possibility of a fire in a plenum space that isn't detected anywhere else, hence the need for the code.

Where you could run into trouble would a home inspection if you were going to sell, but pulling the RO size lines out is trivial to solve the issue.

All fair points!

 

[Jake]

Here is my setup...please ignore the mass chaos of the room as I'm remodeling my basement. RO unit is across the room and feeds the top tank via the ceiling. The bottom of the top tank is drilled and empties via a ball valve into the bottom tank.View attachment 69003
View attachment 69002

The bottom tank has a Vetra M2 to mix and circulate the water.

I store my hose on a hose reel and built a j-hook that goes into my tank and removes the correct amount of water. I just drop it into the tank and suck on the other end and drop it down the furnace floor drain.

View attachment 69001View attachment 69004

When it is time to refill the tank, I take the end out of the drain and screw it onto the outlet on the mixing tank piping and flip 2 valves. Viola! Water goes upstairs and fills the tank. I let it fill until it reaches a mark on the tank and then shut it off. The only thing I need to be aware of lifting the J-hook out of the water, or it immediately starts to siphon back down. Flip back on the return pumps for the tank and roll the hose back up, and I'm done.

You have enough hose to walk it all the way upstairs?

 

[zoolan70]

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You have enough hose to walk it all the way upstairs?

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[Dadzilla11]

I have 2 rolls possibly 3 rolls 100ft each of hydroponic black line if you need it... FIF

 

[Jake]

I have 2 rolls possibly 3 rolls 100ft each of hydroponic black line if you need it... FIF

I need to get a reel. Do you have a switch upstairs to turn the pump on and off

 

[Dadzilla11]

Mine is also in the basement. And yes I have a remote plugs to turn it on and off.
I have line for ease of amount taken.
And a remote switch to turn new water n on. As for the line it's 1/2 in and I can meet up with ya if you want..