What should I keep in mind when planning plumbing? (1 Viewer)

[Varig]

I can’t say for sure, but NPT usually means National Pipe Taper, meaning it’s a tapered thread. If so it will get tight before it threads fully together. It could be mislabeled though and actually be NPS (straight not taper). Usually you can see if it has the taper though.

And sorry to hear it’s being a pain. You’re right that usually you can get stuff to slide together more easily with the “lubricant” of the cement, but for sure you still have to act fast. Probably you already saw this as well, but I’d do a loose dry fit on everything where the finished angle matters and mark both pieces with a sharpie. That way you know when you have them at the right angle. I’ve always given them a little twist as well (not sure if it’s actually required or just something my dad did). Haven’t had one fail though, so I guess if it ain’t broke.

Keep on keeping on. Isn’t learning new skills fun?

Pictures!

 

[miltonkl]

I can’t say for sure, but NPT usually means National Pipe Taper, meaning it’s a tapered thread. If so it will get tight before it threads fully together. It could be mislabeled though and actually be NPS (straight not taper). Usually you can see if it has the taper though.

And sorry to hear it’s being a pain. You’re right that usually you can get stuff to slide together more easily with the “lubricant” of the cement, but for sure you still have to act fast. Probably you already saw this as well, but I’d do a loose dry fit on everything where the finished angle matters and mark both pieces with a sharpie. That way you know when you have them at the right angle. I’ve always given them a little twist as well (not sure if it’s actually required or just something my dad did). Haven’t had one fail though, so I guess if it ain’t broke.

Keep on keeping on. Isn’t learning new skills fun?

Pictures!

I'm basically trying to get the dry fit stage done still, lol. These bulkheads literally wouldn't accept the pipe/fittings even a tiny bit until I applied the primer/cement. The rest has gone fine trying to work on the dry fit. Keep finding pieces I need but have to order so waiting on a couple more bits right now then I think I'm ready to finalize the fit and get to putting it all together. I was really hoping to have it running this weekend but now I'm gonna have to order a new bulk head too.... It'll get there, though!

Not much to have pictures of yet but I'll start a new build thread once there's something to really show, but here's the said threaded fittings, as best I could get my phone to focus. The website said NPT but I can't tell I'll assume it's accurate.

 

[Varig]

Got it, well if they're NPT than I'm not surprised at all if they only go in part way. I can say in the bulkhead in the bottom of my Fluval tank the adapter like that threads in a similar amount (it definitely doesn't bottom out). If they're getting tight, I'm sure you'll be fine. Especially because that's in your tank right (return line). So what's a little leak? What do they say in this hobby, salt creep will seal it up?

 

[miltonkl]

Working on the inside of the overflow today. Would this work for a beananimal style?

Left most is basically impossible to put anything in, so I figure it will be full syphon and just leave it open as is.

Rightmost is double 90s put together with a small section of pipe sticking up to make it the emergency overflow. Not sure how to judge how high the pipe should be.

Middle is lifted up slightly and then on a 90 to get it out of the way of the bulkhead coming in. I could also do the double 90 like the right more and just not put the straight pipe in if it would be better, I just ran out of the 90s with a street side in my stock pile.


dry fit pic:

 

[mrbill]

I wouldn't glue the 90deg elbow. I just use straight pipes and none are glued into the bulkhead. You may want to raise the water level to keep the tank water from falling into the overflow box and making a lot of noise. The actual flow of your pump will determine how you tune the drains. That's why I like to have the option of modifying as needed.

I assume you have good valves on at least 2 of the drains. You may not use the valve on the full open drain but its nice to have if you need it.

 

[miltonkl]

I wouldn't glue the 90deg elbow. I just use straight pipes and none are glued into the bulkhead. You may want to raise the water level to keep the tank water from falling into the overflow box and making a lot of noise. The actual flow of your pump will determine how you tune the drains. That's why I like to have the option of modifying as needed.

I assume you have good valves on at least 2 of the drains. You may not use the valve on the full open drain but its nice to have if you need it.

I have a spears gate valve for the main siphon and ball valves for the other two.

As for raising the water level, I don't know exactly what determines that but I'm assuming the gate valve will help adjust that by closing off water until it forces it up higher?

Here's another option which turns the middle spot into the emergency and has the rightmost one slightly below that. Main drain on the left has the strainer installed now but I could swap the strainer for (short) length of pipe if it needs to not be flush for some reason, but couldn't do both. This might be the better option since the secondary drain is above the bulkhead drop off--both have room to be lowered a little bit if needed.

 

[mrbill]

Depending on the flow it will probably be the highth of the second drain that will determin the water level in the box. If your flow is high you may need 2 full syphon drains. Just dont glue any of the tubes in the overflow and then you can adjust them once the water is flowing. I dont think you need the strainer. The 3rd drain is the emergancy drain. I cant see multiple drains blocking up at the same time plus the teeth of the overflow should stop anything big enough to be a problem.