Chris' Elos 160 (1 Viewer)

[shawnriv]

Hey Chris,

I just set up my two Radions using your EcoSmart Live schedule and I also upgraded my two MP10's (my tank is a 65G shallow (48x24x13 inches)) with the RF Module for EcoSmart Drivers. I was going through the EcoSmart Vortech schedule and was wondering if you could share schedule? Thanks! [h=3]RF Module[/h]

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Hey Chris,

I just set up my two Radions using your EcoSmart Live schedule and I also upgraded my two MP10's (my tank is a 65G shallow (48x24x13 inches)) with the RF Module for EcoSmart Drivers. I was going through the EcoSmart Vortech schedule and was wondering if you could share schedule? Thanks! [h=3]RF Module[/h]

Hey, sure thing. I wish you could share Vortech schedules as XML files. Here's a screenshot of the schedule I'm running now.



I'm sure you know, but be careful running my Radion schedule in a tank that shallow

 

[shawnriv]

Hey, sure thing. I wish you could share Vortech schedules as XML files. Here's a screenshot of the schedule I'm running now.



I'm sure you know, but be careful running my Radion schedule in a tank that shallow

Awesome! Thank you so much! Is the schedule the same for the other Vortech as well? And I agree with you about the Radion schedule. What intensity do you think would be adequate enough for my size tank? My tank will be SPS dominated with a couple LPS and Zoanthids. But overall 90% SPS.

 

[kevindo123]

Thanks..

You probably know more about thread standards than I do. I found out the hard way that they weren't NPT, but decided to make it work anyway. In my experience, NPT will thread into the British Standard but won't create a tight seal.

For the ¾" return line, I used a pipe adapter that I had in the plumbing parts pile (that we all have). I think it originally came with a return pump for the output side. To my surprise, it threaded in and had a seated o-ring that created a tight seal.

The 1½" return is easier just because there's no pressure there. I used a male pipe adapter from Bulk Reef Supply. I remember it not sealing straight away and had to undo everything and add an o-ring or a little thread seal tape to prevent dripping.


Edit: Hard to get a photo but here's a rough idea:

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Awesome! Thank you so much! Is the schedule the same for the other Vortech as well? And I agree with you about the Radion schedule. What intensity do you think would be adequate enough for my size tank? My tank will be SPS dominated with a couple LPS and Zoanthids. But overall 90% SPS.

The left Vortech has the same time schedule but the peak intensity is a bit higher at 80 or 85 percent. This isn't for any particular reason other than I hate it when saltwater runs down the back of the aquarium, so I run it a bit lower on that side.

SPS are happy with this schedule just a couple inches below the water line so I don't think you'll have a problem there, but the intensity might be a bit much for your LPS and zoanthids in a more shallow tank. I'm also running Ecotech's wide angle lenses which spread out some of the intensity. I think if you reduce all of the values by 25% you'd be in a good spot especially if you use ESL's acclimation mode.

 

[shawnriv]

The left Vortech has the same time schedule but the peak intensity is a bit higher at 80 or 85 percent. This isn't for any particular reason other than I hate it when saltwater runs down the back of the aquarium, so I run it a bit lower on that side.

SPS are happy with this schedule just a couple inches below the water line so I don't think you'll have a problem there, but the intensity might be a bit much for your LPS and zoanthids in a more shallow tank. I'm also running Ecotech's wide angle lenses which spread out some of the intensity. I think if you reduce all of the values by 25% you'd be in a good spot especially if you use ESL's acclimation mode.

Really great advice! Thank you very much! I was also wondering how you liked running bio-pellets? I ran GFO in my previous LPS nano sized tank, but wondered if bio-pellets are better suited for SPS tanks. You've had spectacular results and I wondered if the use of bio-pellets played a large part in that. And if you do recommend them, when should I add a biopellet reactor to my tank? Thanks again!

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Really great advice! Thank you very much! I was also wondering how you liked running bio-pellets? I ran GFO in my previous LPS nano sized tank, but wondered if bio-pellets are better suited for SPS tanks. You've had spectacular results and I wondered if the use of bio-pellets played a large part in that. And if you do recommend them, when should I add a biopellet reactor to my tank? Thanks again!

Biopellets have been great for me overall. They won't necessarily eliminate the need for phosphate-specific nutrient management (like GFO) but they should reduce it. Biopellets aren't for every system though. The reason I adopted them is because I keep a larger fish bioload in concert with SPS, and I prefer the color of SPS in a more nutrient-poor environment.

I agree with Jeff Macare's assessment that biopellets should never be run in anything but a recirculating reactor with individual control of tumble rate and flow-through rate. The reactor that I use is on the first post of the build thread. I would highly recommend a solid understanding of how and why they work, biologically.

In between the annoying guy talking, Jeff gives what I consider the best overview of Biopellets online.
Biopellets, Part 1
Biopellets, Part 2

 

[shawnriv]

Biopellets have been great for me overall. They won't necessarily eliminate the need for phosphate-specific nutrient management (like GFO) but they should reduce it. Biopellets aren't for every system though. The reason I adopted them is because I keep a larger fish bioload in concert with SPS, and I prefer the color of SPS in a more nutrient-poor environment.

I agree with Jeff Macare's assessment that biopellets should never be run in anything but a recirculating reactor with individual control of tumble rate and flow-through rate. The reactor that I use is on the first post of the build thread. I would highly recommend a solid understanding of how and why they work, biologically.

In between the annoying guy talking, Jeff gives what I consider the best overview of Biopellets online.
Biopellets, Part 1
Biopellets, Part 2

Great links Chris! Thanks again for the information and I also watched both of the YouTube clips and it seems like Jeff is a big fan of biopellet reactors that have adjustable flow options. Bulk Reef Supply recommend the Reef Octopus to me, but I'm starting to think the Skimz BR83 may be a better option because you can tune to flow.

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Great links Chris! Thanks again for the information and I also watched both of the YouTube clips and it seems like Jeff is a big fan of biopellet reactors that have adjustable flow options. Bulk Reef Supply recommend the Reef Octopus to me, but I'm starting to think the Skimz BR83 may be a better option because you can tune to flow.

All reactors are going to be tunable to some extent, but what you're looking for specifically is the ability to tune flow-through rate and tumble rate independently. Biopellets require a minimum tumble rate to prevent clumping and to rasp off the bacteria that form on the pellet surface for eventual removal. A classical reactor will provide the tumble rate needed to accomplish this, but the flow-through rate of the reactor will be determined by this tumble rate. The flow-through rate is just as crucial and needs to be adjusted to find the right balance for your system, both initially and as your bio load changes. The flow-through rate should ideally be adjustable without affecting that necessary tumble rate.

I suspect a lot of the negative experiences people have had with biopellets are from using reactors that, in order to maintain a healthy tumble rate, process the system volume too quickly and don't offer a good way to restrict it.

 

[ChristopherKriens]

A couple photos of my blue maxima.






Favia:



Bimaculatus being weird:



Who said Purple Queens need to eat small foods?


Royal Gramma cruising:


Ventralis female and male (background):

 

[marty9876]

Ventralis doing well/holding their own and are active? 6 months you had them?

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Ventralis doing well/holding their own and are active? 6 months you had them?

I've had them close to a year.

I have a pair from the 4 that I originally got. Two were gone after the first month, both I think from malnutrition. The quarantine/acclimation process was really rushed because we had a trip to Hawaii planned and I needed to get them used to the display before leaving. I think total time ended up being just three weeks or so.

The remaining pair don't require any special care beyond what I provide for the others. The "bright light" claim was never an issue, even at first. They've always been out and active in the water column. Same with the "warm temperature" anecdote, although I don't even know what the symptoms would be if a fish were kept in temperatures that are too warm. I'd guess most reefers couldn't identify that either and I think in this case (and in general) it's a just-so story.

2/4 isn't necessarily a good success rate but I really think if I had acclimated properly and not had a lengthy vacation at a crucial time, 3/4 or 4/4 would have been attainable.


Swimming with the group:

 

[shawnriv]

Since I'm going to try my hand at bio-pellets, how did you manage to get your alkalinity down to the 7? I read that it's very recommended to get it around 7.5 when running pellets.

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Since I'm going to try my hand at bio-pellets, how did you manage to get your alkalinity down to the 7? I read that it's very recommended to get it around 7.5 when running pellets.

Maintaining a lower alkalinity is as simple as letting it fall naturally and then dosing just enough (kalkwasser, two part) to sustain that level. The salt mix I use mixes to about 8dKH, so water changes don't increase levels too much.

I use Red Sea Salt (Blue Bucket)

 

[shawnriv]

Maintaining a lower alkalinity is as simple as letting it fall naturally and then dosing just enough (kalkwasser, two part) to sustain that level. The salt mix I use mixes to about 8dKH, so water changes don't increase levels too much.

I use Red Sea Salt (Blue Bucket)

When you say naturally, do you mean just let it fall and not dosing it back up? Wouldn't that stress out the coral resulting in RTN or STN?

 

[ChristopherKriens]

When you say naturally, do you mean just let it fall and not dosing it back up? Wouldn't that stress out the coral resulting in RTN or STN?

It depends on what level you're starting from, your system volume, and what your bio load is with regard to calcifying organisms (e.g. coral, clams, coralline, etc.) If your current level is significantly higher than your target, then controlling the drop by maintaining a medial dose during the transition is probably wise.

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Plate coral (Fungia sp.) from Cherry Corals under the blues:

 

[RandoReefer]

Yowsa!!

 

[coralreefer]

That plate coral is sweet nice pickup!

 

[shawnriv]

Out of curiosity, where did you place your Radion XR30 power supply? I have two of mine just sitting on the floor next to my tank but would like to hang them up.