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16ANA 240G starfire mixed reef (1 Viewer)

Thanks Scott! not sure how I missed this post. I stopped by the Eden prairie menards last night and talked to one of the employees there, this guy used to have a salty tank but now has two freshwaters. So he knows what I'm blabbering about :)

One thing he did suggest was to talk to the city to determine if there are any code requirements and also that the insulation would need to be sheetrocked as its very easy to mess the foamboard; he also indicated that the code will require sometype of a vapor barrier to installed also (high humidity). And yeah its not cheap.

So I'm curious if it helped to keep the water temps steady/not turn the heater as often or did it generally help with overall heating (lower bils:))and humidity management?
 
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Something I wish to start again - these are pics from the Duluth Rose garden that I took two summers ag0 (untouched Jpg's) -

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As you can tell I was a tad bit distracted... but the uncertainity is killing me...so to distract myself from that I said what the heck and have started some key improvements to the system thats basically running on life sustaining type setup... looks obviously not attended to much. so stay tuned :beerchug:
 
My situation was a bit different - finished basement with some consendation in one area from exposed foundation and improper framing/insulation. But I did a ton of research on different insulation methods.

All depends on what you are trying to accomplish with the project. Right now you have a huge heat sink in the concrete so all of the energy supplied in the basement is being used to warm the foundation. Insulation will reduce it considerably, but you will still have the cold bare floor so not sure how much it will reduce bills. I would think that if you reduce the exposed surface by 50-60% by insulating the walls it will help considerably.

As for the condensation, you have warm moist air + cold surface = condensation. If you build a wall with standard fiberglass insulation you are setting up a thermal and humidity gradient in the wall and counting that there is a sufficient buffer for the air to cool without condensing. The foamboard can act as a vapor barrier and insulation (think styrofoam cup) and limits the contact of the air with the cold foundation. Much less chance for condensation and mold to occur. It is also closed cell foam so it will not harbor mold. I do believe the Menards guy may be correct that it must have a fire retardant barrier (sheetrock) over it. Need to check local codes.

Can't write a book, but more than happy to help in any way I can.

Taklu said:
Thanks Scott! not sure how I missed this post. I stopped by the Eden prairie menards last night and talked to one of the employees there, this guy used to have a salty tank but now has two freshwaters. So he knows what I'm blabbering about :)

One thing he did suggest was to talk to the city to determine if there are any code requirements and also that the insulation would need to be sheetrocked as its very easy to mess the foamboard; he also indicated that the code will require sometype of a vapor barrier to installed also (high humidity). And yeah its not cheap.

So I'm curious if it helped to keep the water temps steady/not turn the heater as often or did it generally help with overall heating (lower bils:))and humidity management?
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not sure how its embedded to play here.. but watch the light squares move closely



Now hand over all your money and no one gets hurt! :biggrin: muhahahha
 
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Chris Goetz said:
I don't know what to say... "Umm, nice table?"
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LOL, well atleast you appreciate the table.. although you dont see all the hardwork I put into getting that video..hand over the money anyway and we will still be friends..... :beerchug:

Crappy video...didnt capture what the eyes see. the squares on the chair was casting reflections on the table, moving left to right and back... the squares "move" almost like one fades and new one forms in another color.. it was way cool to see so I shot the video.
 
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Signs of Alien activity spotted on the 16ANA reef :cool:

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Runway for new arrivals landing on 16ANA
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Me posing for pics :gay1:
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This is a setup that has worked very well for me, its a perfect fit in more than a few very demanding situations....its very modular and flexible, takes a minute or two to put together or take apart. Caution: this is for experts only and do not try this at home especially if this will be on the second level :goldfish:

started work on re-organizing the filtration, dosing and top off.

Step one... move the tanks higher up and benefit from warmer air towards the top.. move the return pump toooo...
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Step two - add insulation around the tanks, best bang for the buck in an unheated basement
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Step three - take pics and post on build thread :gay1:

Step four- Finally prep to add a reef controller to the setup. The tank has been on an uncontrolled run for the last few months and this has to come to an end... for the tanks own good some oversight is needed...Introducing the All new 16ANA Apex controller.

Time for dinner :biggthumpup:
 
Made some more progress... something arrived in the mail yesterday evening :biggthumpup:


Swabbie from Avast marine, nicely packed. As far as the finish goes, it could be better but I'm anal sometimes
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Looks so nice under LED lighting :nuts:
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Some more progress -
Soldered the LEDs and covered the sloppy job with liquid tape
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Next I proceeded to cover the sloppy tape job with insulation tape ;)
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get ready to be hypnotized -

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Color rendition on a white background.. the goal was to get a bluer light.. I think it worked out nicely
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quick pic to show what a neutral white LED would look like
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final result, almost... still need to figure out why one string keeps blowing the fuse...
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Time to inject some growth harmone into the system... this something I've been studying for sometime...needs to be dosed in exact quatities. the calculation relies heavily on total water volume and tank demands

still trying to figure out how to get the syringe to fill without the bubbles

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