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I'm pretty thrifty. I don't have anything against eggcrate, but after a while, some of the stuff overgrow onto them and I don't know what to do with them. Also, they show through to the backwall, and the eggcrate and the backwall look dirty and I get lazy to pull them out to clean and it looks a bit messyI'm a fan of the egg crate frag racks. Nice and cheap! I wonder if you could lean one against the side (with a piece of live rock or something to hold the bottom from slipping) and effectively recreate your concrete wall or if the frags would fall out too easy...
Not sure on that. I just remember the Overflow system he was doing.@reef junkie (Edited) Again, I'm pretty forgetful so I might remember it incorrectly. I only remember that the person worked as a graphic designer of some sort, and had that tank in his office, then eventually moved it home. There were some issues with that tank and there were some up and down? Don't ask me why I remember things I remember and don't remember things I don't remember. Did he move out of state???
Yes, I did. I just got a bit confused if it was tempered or not tempered if it turned black. Watching those hyperactive YouTube videos confused the heck out of me with those people jumbing, twisting and turning, going 'tempered', 'not tempered' all over the placeJust to be clear, are you 100% sure you’re using polarized sunglasses? Like you tested on the laptop screen alone to make sure it turned black?
Not sure on that. I just remember the Overflow system he was doing.
I feel like my polarized Oakleys glasses make the back of car windows looked weird and blotchy. Thats how I knew they were polarized. Maybe that would help To determine if the glasses you are using is polarized?
Some of the DIY overflow box kits come with drill bits if you plan to use a box.
If you're planning to paint the back of the glass black at all, I just bought a can to paint my own that I'm done with and you're welcome to have the rest and save a few bucks.

I think what you want is a 1/2" bulkhead for your return line. My tank has the ABS thread/thread version. That way I can thread in the Loc-line on the inside the tank side and outside the tank I threaded in a NPT to slip adapter. Then glued my return line plumbing all together. According to BRS you would need a 30mm diamond drill bit to drill for that 1/2" bulkhead. Clearly you'll need a different size for your overflow.
Also, to be clear, I see you bought the strainer (which size did you buy?). But you'll need a bulkhead I think. I don't think the threads are long enough on that strainer to actually go through the glass (but I could be wrong). But the point of the bulkhead below is that it has the gaskets/flange/tightening ring to get a good seal on the tank. Then you'd just thread the strainer into the tank side and whatever fitting on the outlet side (again, you can use soft plumbing with a barb fitting as you showed OR adapt the bulkhead to a slip connector and then plumb it with glued together PVC.
I think. Could be the blind leading the blind here. But that's how my tank was done. And it's how I would do it if I was drilling a new tank. I think the bulkhead itself is critical.
I just went through this as well. Needed to buy bulkheads from Amazon. Just read carefully on what size opening the bulkhead requires. I was doing 3/4" bulkheads and the preexisting holes were 1 3/8" in the overflow and 1 1/2" for return. Ended up with separate bulkheads as the 1 1/2" I wanted threaded flange side for a locline return. The others were just slip on both sides. I think typically 1 1/2" is for 3/4" fittings.And great! BRS is out of stock on the 1/2" thread/thread bulkheads!

Darn!!!! I guess this is a very tight knit community. Did someone tell you I have been nick naming you 'mister Upgrade'???Cant wait to see what you do with this. Looks great. Now do I get to cal you Mr. upgrade now.![]()