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Concept AC JR settings (1 Viewer)

hamdogg08

hamdogg08

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Jul 11, 2007
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Champlin, MN
While avoiding the infamous finals, I was thinking about all the things I'd do when I'm done with school and am living happily with a controller on my tank. Would the following work?

Wiring the auto top-off to two different pumps attached to an ACJR.
1 would be pure RODI water
2 would be Kalkwasser

ACJR set to:
If the PH is below _____ #2 is on
If PH is above ______#1 is on

I haven't given it tons of thought, but was wondering if anyone had a similar setup where they are adding two different topoffs depending on the PH of the tank.

Thanks in advance for the responses and discussion...I'll be on all night:cry:
 
<== Study break.

I thought about this too, but it's not necessary. Just have the controller set to stop dosing after a pH (ex. if >8.5) and only dosing when the lights are out. If it's too much Ca/alk then back up how must kalk you add to the top off. You can have the controller turn on for 1 minute intervals and off for 10/15 minutes (then on, etc.) to make sure that you can add enough water to keep up with your evaporation needs.
 
Zibba said:
<== Study break.

I thought about this too, but it's not necessary. Just have the controller set to stop dosing after a pH (ex. if >8.5) and only dosing when the lights are out. If it's too much Ca/alk then back up how must kalk you add to the top off. You can have the controller turn on for 1 minute intervals and off for 10/15 minutes (then on, etc.) to make sure that you can add enough water to keep up with your evaporation needs.
Click to expand...

So rather than a float switch, you have the RODI on an estimated interval, and the Kalk dosed in relation to the PH, right?
 
Zibba said:
<== Study break.

I thought about this too, but it's not necessary. Just have the controller set to stop dosing after a pH (ex. if >8.5) and only dosing when the lights are out. If it's too much Ca/alk then back up how must kalk you add to the top off. You can have the controller turn on for 1 minute intervals and off for 10/15 minutes (then on, etc.) to make sure that you can add enough water to keep up with your evaporation needs.
Click to expand...

Why don't you have your kalk set to dose 24/7 with the program set to keep your kalk between 8.3 and 8.4 (just an example), and cut out two part all together? If your dosing doesn't keep up with Ca and Alk demands add vinegar. If your sump doesn't evaporate enough add fans. etc...etc...?
 
Kalk is so cool because it is like two part combined into one. Kalk is both calcium and alkalinity in a balanced ratio. Is what happens is that stony coral colonies and clams will grow and suck more and more Ca and Alk out of the water column that it can be a struggle to use enough Kalk to keep up without hitting Kalks limiting factors of raising ph too high, or not having enough evaporation from your tank so that you can keep adding kalk without skewing your salinity. Kalks limiting factors caused people to look for other ways to supply Ca and Alk that did not pose such limits. Several members in the club have discovered that Kalk's limiting factors may not be so limiting. At least this is what I perceive to be taking place. Many things you hear in the hobby are myths and you just go with it without testing it for yourself, or it may be that it was true many years back when we did not have the understanding or the technology that we have now. Other factors like the heuristic effect (a plane crashes and everyone dies thus making the public at large feel that many planes crash) are at place too. For instance, you hear about how cukes are so bad because people have had whole tanks crash at the same time a cuke dies. This belief has a partial truth mixed with inaccuracy. The truth is brightly colored cukes that crawl on the glass, perching to filter food out the the water column, are trouble because brightly colored in this instance means more poison and they have the abliity to crawl into powerheads and overflows thus spreading their poison throughout the tank. cukes that eat detrius out of the sand bed tend to look like turds, have less poison in general, and do not crawl on the glass because they like sediment. So in summary kalk is good :biggrin:
 
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one raises ph slightly for a little bit of time and the other has a slightly lowering to neutral affect on ph over a little bit of time. If your ph is a little too low then use the ph raising recipe with a dosing pump connected to an AC Jr. to allow your daily ml of Alk to drip in such a way that keeps your ph a little higher throughout the day or night. That is what I used to do when I used only two part.
 
right now all my colonies are small so I have no problem using only kalk. Grigor is doing only kalk with decent sized colonies. Also, I do dose like 10 ml of two part a day, but don't need it. I just don't feel like messing with it. So if you have a dosing pump, AC Jr., and a tank without massive stony corals you could do only kalk. I'm partial to kalk so you might want to talk to others in the club to get a balanced view on the topic. There is a lot of good reading on reefcentral.com
 
I actually go to Hamline. UST would be a good school, but I got recruited to run at HU, so that's where I ended up. I heard that if you give enough money, they give you a degree...I'm still waiting on the proof though.
 
I'd like to see how many people would have gotten their jobs regardless of weather or not they went to college, but I'm sure I'd fall into a deep deep depression shortly thereafter...:grr:
 
I hope so. It seems like graduating college now is like graduating high school 20 years ago...I did learn a lot about business management and finance though, so I guess it will at least help me be more fiscally astute.
 
Not to be a downer, but these days it seems like you need at least one grad degree if you really want to get ahead - that or have a really good idea and go into buisiness for yourself.
 
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