Sorry Will. Combining medications sounds like the culprit to me. Did you do large water changes between doses?
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cypho's 36" DIY reef (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cypho
- Start date
Ugggg I know that feeling. We wondered where you were last night since you missed the meeting, guess we know.
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acharpenter
Pitas' Pita
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Been a lil bit - I was very sorry to hear this happened dude, cant possibly imagine, so sorry - you ok?
Remaining fish are back in the tank and doing well. It only took 6 months, but I am finally ich free!
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20% off everything at Liveaquaria. Sounds like a good time to stock up on fish.
CN-97828 SW - Pinkbar Goby (Maldives) - Medium Qty: 2
CN-98461 SW - Indian Ocean Regal Angelfish, Juvenile - Orange (Maldives) - Medium Qty: 1
CN-76138 SW - Potter's Wrasse (Hawaii) - Medium Qty: 1
CN-76151 SW - Potter's Wrasse (Hawaii)- Large Qty: 1
CN-97828 SW - Pinkbar Goby (Maldives) - Medium Qty: 2
CN-98461 SW - Indian Ocean Regal Angelfish, Juvenile - Orange (Maldives) - Medium Qty: 1
CN-76138 SW - Potter's Wrasse (Hawaii) - Medium Qty: 1
CN-76151 SW - Potter's Wrasse (Hawaii)- Large Qty: 1
jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
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Pair of gobies, pair of wrasses... Looking to create a pair of Regals?
I already have one baby regal, so yes, hopefully they will grow up to be a pair. I was not planning on a pair when I got the first one, but baby yellow belly regal angels are 30% off this week on top of the sitewide 20% off sale. How could I say no to a half price yellow belly regal angel? I'm going to call it long term planning - setting up a great excuse for a bigger tank in a few years.
Good thing LA has a guarantee. That last fish shipment was a total dud. Nothing came close to making it through quarantine. The wrasses lasted less than 24 hours. The angel only lasted a week. And the gobies did not even make it into the box.
One of my MH ballasts failed last weekend. I considered switching to LED's instead of sinking more money into the halides, but as luck would have it someone posted a MH ballast in the classifies a few days before so it ended up being a pretty painless repair.
I picked up 3 flame angels from New Wave this week. They claimed that they were hand caught in Hawaii. If they really are Hawaiian fish that would be really cool, but given the price (not expensive) I am somewhat skeptical since flame angels pretty rare in Hawaii. Fingers crossed that they will do better than my recent LA order.
The acroporids are all doing great and showing some of the best growth I've seen in a while, but for some reason all of the pocilloporids have been receding. A water change seems to have helped a bit but some of them still don't look great.
One of my MH ballasts failed last weekend. I considered switching to LED's instead of sinking more money into the halides, but as luck would have it someone posted a MH ballast in the classifies a few days before so it ended up being a pretty painless repair.
I picked up 3 flame angels from New Wave this week. They claimed that they were hand caught in Hawaii. If they really are Hawaiian fish that would be really cool, but given the price (not expensive) I am somewhat skeptical since flame angels pretty rare in Hawaii. Fingers crossed that they will do better than my recent LA order.
The acroporids are all doing great and showing some of the best growth I've seen in a while, but for some reason all of the pocilloporids have been receding. A water change seems to have helped a bit but some of them still don't look great.
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Glad your acros are at least doing well
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Finally, everything is going smoothly. The acroporids are growing - some of them very rapidly, the pocilloporids stopped dying. And the fish (what's left of them) are healthy.
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Since things are going so well, that means I should change something right?
I currently dose Kalk, Iron, and Silica and the tubs were just dangling over the edge of the sump into a relatively low flow area. In addition to looking ugly and being a potential mess (if the tubes got knocked out of the tank), I was getting some pretty serious lime deposits from the kalk landing in a low flow part of the sump.
I installed some 1/4" bulkheads on turf scrubber/filter sock basin for the Kalk, Iron, and Silica.
I also installed two spectrapure LM3-MPM pumps for automatic water-changes. New salt water in goes in through a 1/4" bulkhead just like the supplements. And old water comes out from a bulkhead mounted lower in the sump.
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I currently dose Kalk, Iron, and Silica and the tubs were just dangling over the edge of the sump into a relatively low flow area. In addition to looking ugly and being a potential mess (if the tubes got knocked out of the tank), I was getting some pretty serious lime deposits from the kalk landing in a low flow part of the sump.
I installed some 1/4" bulkheads on turf scrubber/filter sock basin for the Kalk, Iron, and Silica.
I also installed two spectrapure LM3-MPM pumps for automatic water-changes. New salt water in goes in through a 1/4" bulkhead just like the supplements. And old water comes out from a bulkhead mounted lower in the sump.
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Looking good, William.
I hope one of your water change pumps doesn't start lagging behind the other at some point. I'm sure you monitor that anyway. What water change regiment do you have them set up for?
I use a single motor, twin head pump to do a 1% daily water change. It's nice having that maintenance piece done for me. You'll also like the stability.
I hope one of your water change pumps doesn't start lagging behind the other at some point. I'm sure you monitor that anyway. What water change regiment do you have them set up for?
I use a single motor, twin head pump to do a 1% daily water change. It's nice having that maintenance piece done for me. You'll also like the stability.
I have not yet decided what I am going to use for a water reservoir and that will impact how large of water changes it does because I do not want to mix water more than once a month ( and 2 months would be even better). I currently use a 29 gallon tank for Kalkwasser storage. I have considered using that for the water change water and then switch to a reactor for the kalkwasser. That would allow about 40% a month with monthly refills or 20% with bi-monthly refills. Other options include a smaller reservoir next to the kalk reservoir, or a larger reservoir next to my RODI in the utility closet.
I looked into twin head pumps but decided against it. A twin head pump prevents one side from continuing without the other in the event of a motor failure. But from my reading motor failures are pretty rare peristaltic pumps. What appears to be much more common problem with peristaltic pumps is slippage (where rotors spin at a slower rate than the drive shaft), and tube degradation. Both of which case causing less fluid to be pumped but since they are problems with the head, neither of those issues are any less likely to happen to just one side on a dual head pump than on one side of 2 totally separate pumps. And on a dual head pump there is nothing you can do to correct the situation where one head pumps less than another other than replace the heads and hope that solves the problem. But with two totally independent pumps you can just run the slower pump slightly longer.
In addition to being able to calibrate the pumps if needed, I can also do some other fun tricks like running the two pumps at different times (remove water first, then replace it later) and adjusting the ratio of in to out when the salinity of the source water is not the same as the desired tank salinity. I don't currently plan to use the salinity probes to make any automatic adjustments because I am not yet sure yet if the salinity probe is more or less prone to failure than the pumps. But it would be really cool if it worked out and salinity probes could be used to re-calibrate the dosing pumps every day for both pump mis-matches and source water salinity issues.
As far as detecting errors, I should be able to detect a pump failure or mis-calibration two ways. An unexpected jump (or drop) in the amount of fresh water added by the ATO. Or a change in in the salinity. In the worst case scenario where one of the pumps becomes stuck ON I have that covered. The sump overflows into the sewer, so if I pump too much water into the sump it will just go down the drain. This would be detected by my high-water float switch. And it pulls water from only slightly below the normal water level in the sump so if it tried to pump too much water out of the sump it would just start sucking air before anything bad happened. (the ato will not add an unreasonable amount of topoff water so in this event (or in the event of a leak) the ATO will not keep replacing the lost water forever.
I looked into twin head pumps but decided against it. A twin head pump prevents one side from continuing without the other in the event of a motor failure. But from my reading motor failures are pretty rare peristaltic pumps. What appears to be much more common problem with peristaltic pumps is slippage (where rotors spin at a slower rate than the drive shaft), and tube degradation. Both of which case causing less fluid to be pumped but since they are problems with the head, neither of those issues are any less likely to happen to just one side on a dual head pump than on one side of 2 totally separate pumps. And on a dual head pump there is nothing you can do to correct the situation where one head pumps less than another other than replace the heads and hope that solves the problem. But with two totally independent pumps you can just run the slower pump slightly longer.
In addition to being able to calibrate the pumps if needed, I can also do some other fun tricks like running the two pumps at different times (remove water first, then replace it later) and adjusting the ratio of in to out when the salinity of the source water is not the same as the desired tank salinity. I don't currently plan to use the salinity probes to make any automatic adjustments because I am not yet sure yet if the salinity probe is more or less prone to failure than the pumps. But it would be really cool if it worked out and salinity probes could be used to re-calibrate the dosing pumps every day for both pump mis-matches and source water salinity issues.
As far as detecting errors, I should be able to detect a pump failure or mis-calibration two ways. An unexpected jump (or drop) in the amount of fresh water added by the ATO. Or a change in in the salinity. In the worst case scenario where one of the pumps becomes stuck ON I have that covered. The sump overflows into the sewer, so if I pump too much water into the sump it will just go down the drain. This would be detected by my high-water float switch. And it pulls water from only slightly below the normal water level in the sump so if it tried to pump too much water out of the sump it would just start sucking air before anything bad happened. (the ato will not add an unreasonable amount of topoff water so in this event (or in the event of a leak) the ATO will not keep replacing the lost water forever.
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Looking fantastic
I've been focusing on the basics for the last few months: water changes, frequent testing of CA/ALK/salinity, actually feeding the fish.... The effort is really paying off.
Corals that were brown and receding for over a year have begun coloring back up and are not only no longer receding, they are beginning to put on out some new tips. And the newer additions (that did not have to deal with whatever used to be wrong with the tank) are growing pretty rapidly - the blue stag put on over 1" of growth in the last month.
And the clams....the smallest has not done much yet, but the two larger ones are adding at least 1-2mm of new shell per week.
Corals that were brown and receding for over a year have begun coloring back up and are not only no longer receding, they are beginning to put on out some new tips. And the newer additions (that did not have to deal with whatever used to be wrong with the tank) are growing pretty rapidly - the blue stag put on over 1" of growth in the last month.
And the clams....the smallest has not done much yet, but the two larger ones are adding at least 1-2mm of new shell per week.
Your corals look very happy!
Greentree
Senior Member
LOVE those blues... they look incredible. Thanks for the pics!