Durand tank build (1 Viewer)

[reef junkie]

So I’m having a little trouble. I’m getting a tornado effect on my return in the overflow box. First problem was waterfall noise from the main bulkhead. With the stand pipe Figi cube sent I was not able to get the water level high enough over the bulkhead to get the waterfall to stop when coming into the external overflow chamber. So I cut a longer emergency drain allowing the water level to go higher in the box. Ok that fixed that problem. Now I seem to be getting a tornado in the external overflow box going down the main drain. Maybe this will fix itself once I get rock and such in the sump slowing down the flow. I tried running the return pump at slower speed thinking I was just driving the overflow past what it’s capable of and that seemed to help some but not completely. Any thoughts. Maybe slower flow from retune maybe just fixed it’s self once sump gets more items in it to slow that flow down?

as for the leaky gate valve connection glued what I could again last night and let sit out to dry. Hooked up today and no more leak. Will let it run a day or so before draining the fresh water. Good bath and then start to move everything over.

i can only make about 25 gallons of saltwater and one time. So this may take awhile. . I was thinking I would mix salt in the tank but I want to aqua scape with the rock from my 40breeder but with only about half the water in the display so I’m not elbow deep in trying to move things around. Might be time to get a larger salt mixing bin.

 

[HouseofStark]

Just make a U with pvc, you will probably will need to find a street fitting to minimize the space needed to make the U. But will fix your issue. This is my B/A setup on my fiji external overflow. Another option would be to put a slip over flow strainer on it which will break the air pull from above.

 

[mrbill]

I was planning to mention the overflow problem and then I saw your post. The small Fiji cube external overflow is just too small. I had exactly the same issues as you. I ended up fitting a "T" to the tank bulkhead to stop the rushing water noise. The top opening of the "T" has been cut down to keep the water level from being too high and I cut some slots in the side to allow some water to flow through. I also put a 90 deg elbow on the main drain to stop the vortex. My emergency drain is 5-1/2" tall. After all this you may still have to turn down the flow from the pump. The photo is a little hard to understand as the water surface is messing with the view of the big "T" fitting.

 

[reef junkie]

Thank you both. I will prob try strainer first because it seems the easiest. And then try the other options if that won’t work.

 

[reef junkie]

Forgot I had extra parts. So here we go. Was not sure how far up to go so kept it short for now

 

[HouseofStark]

Looks perfect...keep it short so no chance of sucking air. But not so close to the bottom it restricts flow/siphon. On that same main drain pipe (has gate valve) in the sump, keep the exit/end of pipe fairly close to water level. Not so close it makes noise, but you want it to be able to purge the trapped air when the pump has powered off (power outage, feed mode, ect.) If you submerge that pipe deep into the sump water, it wont have enough momentum to clear the trapped air in pipe and begin full siphon. It will get stuck in a bubble and gurgle loop. The other pipe, your emergency, you want the end above the water surface, so if its ever being used, you can hear it splashing and get your attention.

 

[reef junkie]

Looks perfect...keep it short so no chance of sucking air. But not so close to the bottom it restricts flow/siphon. On that same main drain pipe (has gate valve) in the sump, keep the exit/end of pipe fairly close to water level. Not so close it makes noise, but you want it to be able to purge the trapped air when the pump has powered off (power outage, feed mode, ect.) If you submerge that pipe deep into the sump water, it wont have enough momentum to clear the trapped air in pipe and begin full siphon. It will get stuck in a bubble and gurgle loop. The other pipe, your emergency, you want the end above the water surface, so if its ever being used, you can hear it splashing and get your attention.

Great info. Thanks. And the loop on the main, genius!! Made everything nervously silent. Lol.

Now the painful time filling. To impatience to mix salt then add. Going to just mix in the main. Once I get it mostly full, mixed and let run a day or so to make sure I do have any issues. Will start moving things over. Picked up brs rock from rc today so have another 30lbs to add in main and sump.

was also able to get hood done and installed. T5’s came with plant bulbs??? Weird and unexpected. So time to place another order to brs for bulbs or run someplace closer to me.
Now some pics…..Nevermind the mouse traps. Think cat brought one in to play with tueday morning, but not taking any chances.

 

[H2OHOH]

Very cool

 

[reef junkie]

Finally got filled last night around 11. Ran all night. All went well. Today trying to move things over. Little trouble that I didn’t expect. Mp10‘s wont stick to the back walls because of the black film. Will stick to the front but I dont want to be the final resting place. So now the hunt for used Mp40’s or picking up a Nero 3 or 5. I think 2 Nero 3’s would work fine in a 24x24 If they will stick. Help save on the cost as well. THe Mp40’s or the Nero 5’s would be to large I think and would be ran at a low speed. Another hurdle LOL

 

[reef junkie]

Was able to get everything moved over. Little cloudy still. Broke a few sps while moving the rocks out. Added in some more rack as well and the rest of the haul from RC went in the sump. Have some lighting things to finish up and get all for reef back up. But pretty happy on how the process went. Totally underestimated how many corals were in the 40breeder either not attached to rock or just set in the bottom of the tank. Wish I could have gotten all the encrusted corals off the bottom as well.

after about 30-40 min off messing around got the mp10”s to stick. Not convinced they will stay long. Or when I have to change them to clean will have to fight again. But for now it works.

 

[mrbill]

Finally got filled last night around 11. Ran all night. All went well. Today trying to move things over. Little trouble that I didn’t expect. Mp10‘s wont stick to the back walls because of the black film. Will stick to the front but I dont want to be the final resting place. So now the hunt for used Mp40’s or picking up a Nero 3 or 5. I think 2 Nero 3’s would work fine in a 24x24 If they will stick. Help save on the cost as well. THe Mp40’s or the Nero 5’s would be to large I think and would be ran at a low speed. Another hurdle LOL

I have the same tank and my Nero 3's have no problem sticking. Both of them are on the back of the tank. The problem is that the Neros are hard to find.

 

[reef junkie]

Just for keeping goor records…….

Swapped out the plant bulbs that came with the Figi Light this morning (if any one has any info on there T5 fixture let me know). went with 2 Blue + and 2 Coral +. Can’t wait to see what that will look like when all on.
Also set up All for Reef dosed. Lowered the ML per day just to see how it goes. Was doing 9ml at 7am and again 9ml at 7pm, lowered to 7ml at 7am and again 7ml at 7pm. So not a big difference but I assume the absorption rate would be the same with a larger tank So was going to just keep the same schedule. But the coralline algae was getting out of control on the 40B so maybe having it a little lower will contain it a bit.
Got all the wires tucked away, Primes mounted and secured in the t5 fixture, and even took care of a small leak from emergency drain. Think things are starting to come together. The skimmer is still trying to skim pretty wet and not much for dark color skim, but a lighter tea color means something is there I guess.
Will update with pictures once the lights come on and I can find my orange filter to drown out some of the blue.

 

[reef junkie]

Couldn’t wait. Here’s a few before lights come on.

 

[reef junkie]

Things have settled in. Thanks to HouseOfStark for all the overflow advice she’s quietly running along now. See how the next couple of weeks go. See if I loose anything. After cleaning skimmer the other day Ive produced next to zero skimate. Not sure what’s up with that. Did adjust the skimmer up a little but even the skimmer neck is clean still after 24hours. Maybe to low of a bioload.

Here are a few morning shots before running out he door to work……

 

[reef junkie]

Tank seems to trucking right along. Had a few corals look a little rough before the move and have seemed really be much happier in the new tank. Think my hammers were just getting to much light in the 40b. They are opened up so much more and looking much fuller.

my issue I’m noticing is with my sump. I’m getting what looks like stagnant water on the top of my return chamber. Micro bubbles and a film on the water. Other then adding a small pump to circulate the water in this area is there a better option?


I’m planning to try lowering the water level on this side of the tank and see if having a longer water fall over the baffle will create a little more current. Maybe this will help.

 

[reef junkie]

Lowered the return pump chamber just a little and it seems to look a little better. Sundays are water change days. I’m planning to lower the chamber even more and see what happens.

tested alk for the first time since setting up tank. I did dial down the all for reed a little while sort of braking in. After testing was 7.5. So turned it up a few ml to get just a bit higher. I don’t test for anything else but I’m always curious. Lol. I’ll prob test calcium Sunday am before water change. Mag I don’t have a test kit for but that’s the one I was always concerned about with my hammers never opening up much. That’s not that case for now. So gonna roll with it.
Think I’m going to see if I can sell or trade my two leathers(green and pink toadstools). I just can’t get them to open up at all. In the old tank or this one. Maybe a torch or two in its place.

 

[Coolbobjoe]

Tank seems to trucking right along. Had a few corals look a little rough before the move and have seemed really be much happier in the new tank. Think my hammers were just getting to much light in the 40b. They are opened up so much more and looking much fuller.

my issue I’m noticing is with my sump. I’m getting what looks like stagnant water on the top of my return chamber. Micro bubbles and a film on the water. Other then adding a small pump to circulate the water in this area is there a better option?
View attachment 58526

I’m planning to try lowering the water level on this side of the tank and see if having a longer water fall over the baffle will create a little more current. Maybe this will help.

I have noticed similar issues in many AIO setups. You are on the right track with a DIY fix, any and all stagnant water needs to be addressed and thoroughly recirculated beyond factory specs.... After many trials and errors, I officially plumbed my old Biocube 29 into my main sump/partially remote system so I do not have to worry about the floaters remaining in secondary and tertiary chambers. I personally used to run it completely separate despite being literally inside a 400+ system that is fully plumbed. After a hefty UV installation on each individual tank on said system, I am finally running all pumps full bore without any fears of cross-contamination between the "connected" systems. I even had a full outbreak of Ich. within one of the main three and I accidentally proved the setup as the other 300 gallons of livestock didnt show a single physical spot or behavorial flashing!

 

[Coolbobjoe]

Lowered the return pump chamber just a little and it seems to look a little better. Sundays are water change days. I’m planning to lower the chamber even more and see what happens.

tested alk for the first time since setting up tank. I did dial down the all for reed a little while sort of braking in. After testing was 7.5. So turned it up a few ml to get just a bit higher. I don’t test for anything else but I’m always curious. Lol. I’ll prob test calcium Sunday am before water change. Mag I don’t have a test kit for but that’s the one I was always concerned about with my hammers never opening up much. That’s not that case for now. So gonna roll with it.
Think I’m going to see if I can sell or trade my two leathers(green and pink toadstools). I just can’t get them to open up at all. In the old tank or this one. Maybe a torch or two in its place.

After forcing myself into LPS/SPS keeping, I noticed a sharp decline in my personal softies. I tried a high alkalinity environment to promote growth (pushing 11+dkh) and the only noticeable difference was that most of my soft corals, despite being under proper lighting and flow, that even got transferred into a dedicated tank to do such, and is plumbed into the main sump system, started to heavily decline in all aspects. The corals that were affected follows as such: Palythoas, Zoanthids, Nepthea Sp. (especially neon green variety), Kenya tree has mostly vanished into the ehters (not entirely mad about,) but also my giant semi-rare pink long-tentacle Toadstool is doing just fine despite multiple Armageddon's... GSP and pulsing xenia have never skipped a beat alongside my first success in LPS-keeping: pipe organ, that is now a bit bigger than a canrival-game-mini-basketball!

 

[reef junkie]

I have noticed similar issues in many AIO setups. You are on the right track with a DIY fix, any and all stagnant water needs to be addressed and thoroughly recirculated beyond factory specs.... After many trials and errors, I officially plumbed my old Biocube 29 into my main sump/partially remote system so I do not have to worry about the floaters remaining in secondary and tertiary chambers. I personally used to run it completely separate despite being literally inside a 400+ system that is fully plumbed. After a hefty UV installation on each individual tank on said system, I am finally running all pumps full bore without any fears of cross-contamination between the "connected" systems. I even had a full outbreak of Ich. within one of the main three and I accidentally proved the setup as the other 300 gallons of livestock didnt show a single physical spot or behavorial flashing!

Makes sense on your bio cube. My system is a drilled tank with a full sump underneath, not an all in one. My overflow is rated for 800gph. And Im running 1000gph return pump. This chamber is just the slow area of the system and not a lot of water movement if the water is close to the baffle. I’m hoping gettting a little more drop in the waterfall it will take care of the or mostly take care of it. So i don’t have to run another pump in the sump to create more water movement. Im sure this will create some sort of water noise, hope its not to bad because right now the tank mostly silent. Jus a little hum from the mp10’s.

After forcing myself into LPS/SPS keeping, I noticed a sharp decline in my personal softies. I tried a high alkalinity environment to promote growth (pushing 11+dkh) and the only noticeable difference was that most of my soft corals, despite being under proper lighting and flow, that even got transferred into a dedicated tank to do such, and is plumbed into the main sump system, started to heavily decline in all aspects. The corals that were affected follows as such: Palythoas, Zoanthids, Nepthea Sp. (especially neon green variety), Kenya tree has mostly vanished into the ehters (not entirely mad about,) but also my giant semi-rare pink long-tentacle Toadstool is doing just fine despite multiple Armageddon's... GSP and pulsing xenia have never skipped a beat alongside my first success in LPS-keeping: pipe organ, that is now a bit bigger than a canrival-game-mini-basketball!

It weird, my zoas have always grown well, plays also. It only seeme to be these two leathers. They have grown almost twice the size they were since I first got them a few months ago but no polyps. I just dont get it. You said you were 11+ on alk, Ive never been higher then 9dkh in any of my systems, and usally level off around 8.5dkh consistently. So really have no idea what’s going on. And since i cant figure it out but everything else seems to be doing good and growing well figured its just not ment to be. LOL

 

[Pico bam]

This is looking really nice!