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Fijicube 81 gallon (1 Viewer)

Added three Resplendent Anthias today thanks to Jen at New wave. They add some nice color and movement for a change.
Otherwise I’m still adding almost 20 ml of Nyos Phoshate to keep my phosphates at .02 starting to see some algae again. Pretty happy about seeing algae actually. After loosing the three or four SPS frags to dinos I’m holding off on corals for a while. Thankfully the brown slime is almost all gone now.
 

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You reckon the Dino’s are gone? Or you still need to deal with them actively? If you don’t have a microscope let me know if you need me to take a look under the scope to identify the species of Dino to give direction of treatment.

The fish are pretty!
 
Varig said:
You reckon the Dino’s are gone? Or you still need to deal with them actively? If you don’t have a microscope let me know if you need me to take a look under the scope to identify the species of Dino to give direction of treatment.

The fish are pretty!
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I guess I would not know what else to do anyway other than raise my phosphate levels but thanks. If there is something else to do I’m open to suggestions but shy of shutting the tank down not sure what else I can do. I do have a UV sterilizer that I have never turned on I suppose I could give that a go.
 
Really there are 2 main treatment options, depending on the flavor of Dino’s. One is UV as you mentioned, plumbed directly to the display (not in the sump) and sized correctly (1W per 3 gallons as I recall, would need to double check that). The other species requires you to dose silicate to induce a diatom bloom. The diatoms will outcompete the Dino’s, thus killing them off. Once all the Dino’s are gone you stop dosing silicate and the diatoms die off when the silica gets used up. This took me 6 months once, after letting the Dino’s get really established (which was my fault for not treating earlier).

Then in any case there are best practices. Nitrate/phosphate
Measurable as you mentioned. Dosing pods. Dosing bacteria. Using a diversity source like aqua forest life source or getting some established live rock (I think you’re looking at that). Basically you need to get rid of the Dino’s and get enough diversity to out compete them (because a few will always be around).

Again, happy to throw a sample on a slide if it helps. Sadly I’ve dealt with them a few times on new tanks, but never reset a tank. So you definitely can win.
 
Varig said:
Really there are 2 main treatment options, depending on the flavor of Dino’s. One is UV as you mentioned, plumbed directly to the display (not in the sump) and sized correctly (1W per 3 gallons as I recall, would need to double check that). The other species requires you to dose silicate to induce a diatom bloom. The diatoms will outcompete the Dino’s, thus killing them off. Once all the Dino’s are gone you stop dosing silicate and the diatoms die off when the silica gets used up. This took me 6 months once, after letting the Dino’s get really established (which was my fault for not treating earlier).

Then in any case there are best practices. Nitrate/phosphate
Measurable as you mentioned. Dosing pods. Dosing bacteria. Using a diversity source like aqua forest life source or getting some established live rock (I think you’re looking at that). Basically you need to get rid of the Dino’s and get enough diversity to out compete them (because a few will always be around).

Again, happy to throw a sample on a slide if it helps. Sadly I’ve dealt with them a few times on new tanks, but never reset a tank. So you definitely can win.
Click to expand...
I don’t have corals now anyway so thinking about leaving the Kessils off for a while. The fish don’t seem to care about lights. I plan on keeping nutrients up and adding some live rock and see how things go. On the plus side I am starting to see some algae again
 
Sounds good. Just fyi, the research shows that despite being photosynthetic, black outs won’t kill Dino’s. They have a cyst stage where they can sit dormant until conditions are right. But knocking them back and adding the diversity you mentioned might be enough.

Again, offer stands to pop them on a microscope slide if you find value in it. Just let me know.

Cheers!
 
Well, I am always amazed when things actually work the way they say they will. I have been reading about raising phosphates and how your tank can be consuming the phosphates which is why I believe mine bottomed out. My Nitrates have always stayed right around 15 even when the phosphates were at zero. I have now been able to keep my phosphates at between .02 - .05 with the dosing of between 20-30 ml. of Nyos phosphate additive. I also started adding a bacteria from polyup lab and have seen my nitrates fall a little in the last week without a water change. Nitrates are now at about 10 and phosphates at .02. Anyway the brown slimy algaea (not sure if its Dinos or not) has noticeably decreased and I am actually seeing some green growth as well as some Coraline for the first time. Knock on wood but I think the tank may be turning the corner a bit anyway. Still no corals in the tank but all the fish are fat and happy.

Does anyone have any experience in mixing different breeds of Anthias? I have two Resplendent Anthias and am thinking of adding a couple more but I love the color of the Anthias in general and though about a few Bartletts as well.IMG_3186.jpegIMG_3185.jpeg
 
I tried mixing anthias. Started with I think 4 bimax and 3 carberryi. Ended up with only one carberryi. Then added 4 lyretail. I now have the one carberryi and 3 lyretail that seem to all get along. I was feeding about every 2 hours, very small amounts so they could always have food available. But still i struggled. Next tank upgrade if i go if large enough i think I would try adding in all the same but maybe all at once.
 
Brown slime is all but gone…. Have some hair algae but that is keeping the Turbos and Trocus busy. Nutrients are actually leveled out nicely after months of dosing Phosphate. I’m no longer dosing and Phosphate is consistent at .04-.06 and nitrates are staying between 5-10. Going to add two more Resplendent Anthias and try a couple corals soon.IMG_3202.jpeg
 
The three Amigos courtesy of @rockman_1 a piece or two incoming next week of Kung Pow Montipora. Pretty confident the tank is ready this time knock on wood IMG_3205.jpeg
 
Algae eradication crew chief added thanks to the new owners of Reef Collective IMG_3247.jpeg
 
Well been quite a while since I had an update. Brown slime / dinos (not sure cause never checked it under microscope) pretty sure it was dinos. Either way the increase in phosphate has cleared it up. Have now stabilized on the high side .15 phos and 15 nitrate but I’m good with that for now. Picked up some of my favorite (Kung Pow) and a complimentary Setosa yesterday. Wondering if anyone knows what the darker splotches in my coraline is. It doesn’t blow away like cyano but also not rock hard like coaline. Anyway things seem to be looking up. IMG_3304.jpegIMG_3300.jpegIMG_3301.jpegIMG_3302.jpeg
 
Well knock on wood everything is going well. I even got a controller again. I went with a Hydros Launch because I only want it for heater and ATO safety and redundancy. For some reason the Kung Pow Monti is struggling but the other SPS I have added are looking good. My Red Sea ATO went wonky on me. The sensor scared the crap out of me by saying my tank was 90+ degrees. Of course I was not home..... anyway thankfully I have an Inkbird with WIFI and could see from its monitors the tank was just fine and thus the reason for the Hydros purchase. Hope to add some more corals in the coming weeks and possibly two more Resplendent Anthias.IMG_3348.jpegIMG_3329.jpegIMG_3330.jpeg
 
Not sure why but most of the SPS I have put in the tank is struggling. Alk: 8, Cal: 420, Mag: 1320, Phos: .15, Nit: 15. I know my nutrients are higher than some may like including me but I have flirted with dynos twice with this tank when I lowered the nutrients. I have coraline growing everywhere so it is frustrating. Tank temp is 78-79 degrees. I believe I have plenty of light but I guess my next step will be a par meter. The corals look great for a week or two then the polyps retract and the coral slowly starts loosing color and I can now see bare spots on my slimer and orange passion. the setosa looks great and has good polyp extension and great color but other monti not so much like my orange digi and the kung pow. All of which are still alive but have lost color and all in all dont look good. As much as I want to do SPS I may have to revert back to some LPS I guess.
 
SPS can be tricky with Kessils but I can’t see 500x being inadequate. How long is your photoperiod? And what intensity?

This tank has been running for a WHILE so I don’t suspect it’s immaturity being the issue either.


That leads me to 2 suspicions:
-Testing Error
-Input water

if any of your listed parameters are a bit off, no big deal but I recommend testing your refractometer with a stick solution made from Randy Holmes Farleys DIY recipe made with iodized table salt. Then you KNOW your salinity is correct.

Then we need to look closer at your RO Unit. Confirm your product water is 0TDS with a handheld HM meter from Amazon. They’re less than $20
 
spsick said:
SPS can be tricky with Kessils but I can’t see 500x being inadequate. How long is your photoperiod? And what intensity?

This tank has been running for a WHILE so I don’t suspect it’s immaturity being the issue either.


That leads me to 2 suspicions:
-Testing Error
-Input water

if any of your listed parameters are a bit off, no big deal but I recommend testing your refractometer with a stick solution made from Randy Holmes Farleys DIY recipe made with iodized table salt. Then you KNOW your salinity is correct.

Then we need to look closer at your RO Unit. Confirm your product water is 0TDS with a handheld HM meter from Amazon. They’re less than $20
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I run the Kessil A500 x lights at 75% at the peak of the day for about 3 hours otherwise they are at 65% for the other 5 hours so an 8 hour peak period with an hour ramp up and down. Maybe I need a longer peak period? My RO water has a TDS meter and reads zero. I also have a hand held meter that also reads zero. I use two different Milwaukee salinity testers and both read .025. I have never done a mail in test but thinking maybe I should try that to see if there is anything way off.
 
Jake said:
I run the Kessil A500 x lights at 75% at the peak of the day for about 3 hours otherwise they are at 65% for the other 5 hours so an 8 hour peak period with an hour ramp up and down. Maybe I need a longer peak period? My RO water has a TDS meter and reads zero. I also have a hand held meter that also reads zero. I use two different Milwaukee salinity testers and both read .025. I have never done a mail in test but thinking maybe I should try that to see if there is anything way off.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have your bases covered.

Sending in a Triton or ATI ICP is advisable. I’m inclined to think water is the issue not light.
 
spsick said:
Sounds like you have your bases covered.

Sending in a Triton or ATI ICP is advisable. I’m inclined to think water is the issue not light.
Click to expand...
Which test is better in your opinion
 
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