Banner image

Lights for new 180G (1 Viewer)

MAXreefer

MAXreefer

Administrator Emeritus
Lifetime Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2008
Messages
5,620
Location
Inver Grove Heights, MN
After looking into several options (space, cost etc.) for a new tank I found a real good deal on a new 180 gallon with a nice stand and canopy.
I still have the Perfecto 300 gallon in mind but I don't really know how to solve the light issue involved with a 3 feet deep tank.

If I go for the 180 gallon (72x24x24) I am looking for a good light setup that would accommodate any type of coral. Below are a few solutions I came up with and I realize depending on my choice the placement of the corals will be different.
Maybe I can get some input on my choices so far knowing each setup has pro and cons:

T5/MH Combo fixture
* Aqua Medic Ocean Light T5/Metal Halide Combo Series $1399
4x250W Double Ended HQI metal halide bulb (10,000K), 4x39W T5 fluorescent bulb (Ocean Blue)
LINK​

T5 fixture
2 x 36" ATI 8x39W Powermodule T5 High-Output Fixture w/ Bulbs $2000
LINK​

T5/MH retrofit
4 x 36" 2x39W SLR T5 High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs by IceCap each $149
2 x 24" 2x24W SLR T5 Very High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs by IceCap each $239
1 x MH Deluxe System with 2x250W 14000K HQI Ushio by Icecap $589
www.Reefgeek.com​
I would have 2x36" in the back and 2x36" in the front
The 24" would go in the middle on the left and right side with the 2xMH between them
Total for the system: $1663

T5 retrofit and LED lights
2 x 24" 2x24W SLR T5 High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs by IceCap each $139
2 x 36" 2x39W SLR T5 High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs by IceCap each $149
2 x 24" 2x24W SLR T5 Very High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs by IceCap each $239
24" 2x90W AquaIllumination Modular LED Light System w/ Controller $ 1390
Total for the system: $2444​

Solaris LED
And last but not least I am looking into the 72" Solaris LED setup.
The cost would be around $3700. Taking less heat, less power and cost saving in the longer run etc. I am willing to pay for it. I admit I always have benn very open to new technologies no matter what area and seeing this live in my own house excites me a little (or a lot).
LINK

Michael
 
For the money, Hamilton makes a great MH-T5 hood..250 or 400W.
If not call Dirk on the Solaris
 
oyam123 said:
For the money, Hamilton makes a great MH-T5 hood..250 or 400W.
If not call Dirk on the Solaris
Click to expand...

Have been looking into the Hamilton's and heard a lot good things about them.
Unfortunately I am going to get height issues with them. They would be a really tight fit in the canopy
 
IMO- I was planning on doing 4x250w but on the 180g the bracing up top would be blocking part of the spectrum...so I decided to go with 3x250w MH which means every 2 ft. there is enough light spectrum without the bracing blocking it. if you care for more lighting I'd go with 3x400w

Just my thought if you go 180g
 
I was going to say just do three halides as well. 3x 400 watt 20K halides would be sick. Enough for any coral and still good color with no supplemental lighting.
 
If your willing to do a retrofit, I wouldn't rule out doing 8 48" T5s staggered or something. To me it's a waste to have to run double the # of T5s by going with 36"ers. Much like MH would, this would give you some zones for LPS etc. that may not need wall to wall T5s.
 
sogonerg: Very good point regarding getting only 3 halides. Probably would never have thought of that until I got the 4 sitting on the tank

David Grigor: Thanks for the idea on staggering some 48". I saw in another thread you recommended the ATI T5's. What do you think of the ATI fixture?
LINK
 
Michael,

A couple of thoughts....

If you're looking at Hamilton I have a 3 x 250 HQI w 2x 54w T5s I could sell you cheap with new Giesemans (really bright!)... But an alternative that would be really good.... 3 x 250w Coralvue eballasts with Reeflux 12ks using Lumenbright 3s (better than lumenarcs). No need for supplementation. You'd need a little height though....

ATI T5 fixtures are really tough to get, but they are the best by far, with may be the exception of the Solar Flare. You will wait for a good 6 months unless you buy used....ATI T5s are really good, but the AquaScience have more punch all things equal.

LED, wait a couple of years.... The AquaIllumination use the latest LEDs and will have more output. Just like with ATI T5 fixtures, you may have a wait on these and the Solaris....
 
Another thought.... If you are interested in Japanese style pendant spots with different colored bulbs, outside 6500K, 20000K and 50000K(pink and blue confirmed, potential for red and green)... I've found a source, just need to get some pricing info. The pendants are really nice and currently using 150w halides.
 
mattb said:
The AquaIllumination use the latest LEDs and will have more output. Just like with ATI T5 fixtures, you may have a wait on these and the Solaris....
Click to expand...

Here is a must read on the AI LED's. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/10/review/view

I'm now leaning this way instead of T5's. From the limited research I've done - the cost savings add up fast....68% less power that 250MH's. No bulbs to replace for 7-10 years (based on your photo period), and no chiller/additional fans needed.

A 48" ATI fixture with bulbs will cost me $1100, and bulbs will cost me $200 per year. I'm not sure what the difference is on the power savings, or the heat issues, over T5's is...but, the power savings over MH's is significant.

Heat transfer was estimated after operating the AI unit for 24 hours above a 29 gallon aquarium. After this time, the aquarium water was approximately 1ºF warmer than room temperature.
Click to expand...

The ATI has a 1 year warranty, the AI has a 2 year warranty.
 
Last edited:
dobbs said:
Here is a must read on the AI LED's. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/10/review/view

I'm now leaning this way instead of T5's. From the limited research I've done - the cost savings add up fast....68% less power that 250MH's. No bulbs to replace for 7-10 years (based on your photo period), and no chiller/additional fans needed.

A 48" ATI fixture with bulbs will cost me $1100, and bulbs will cost me $200 per year. I'm not sure what the difference is on the power savings, or the heat issues, over T5's is...but, the power savings over MH's is significant.



The ATI has a 1 year warranty, the AI has a 2 year warranty.
Click to expand...

Finally a guinea pig! Sweet! I have an ATI Power Module that has 10 bulbs. This pretty much covers the entire 120 (like 23" wide). Even with it 3" above the waterline, I don't get more than 1 degree change in temperature...

That article by Dana leaves some important things out when comparing PAR, reflector choice. This makes a difference. It interesting that they are using blue LEDs that peak at 450nm, as opposed to the 420nm (peak absorbtion at this range by zoox)

:poke: when you get it, you'll need to have another meeting....
 
dobbs said:
I'm now leaning this way instead of T5's. From the limited research I've done - the cost savings add up fast....68% less power that 250MH's. No bulbs to replace for 7-10 years (based on your photo period), and no chiller/additional fans needed.

A 48" ATI fixture with bulbs will cost me $1100, and bulbs will cost me $200 per year. I'm not sure what the difference is on the power savings, or the heat issues, over T5's is...but, the power savings over MH's is significant.
Click to expand...

I can't think that long term. When the payoff becomes say 3 years instead of 8-10 then now let's start talking.

The difference in cost being $1600 ( even more if you retro ) that's just too much money to be thinking 7-10 years out. That's assuming that they actually last as advertised and the intensity stays as projected. But manufacturers have been wrong before ( IE: Those PC claims never held true ). With every version getting better and better, I'd really want things to stabalize a bit. With T5s, you have such great flexability with bulb combinations etc. If corals are looking too pastel, want more pink, too much blue....no problem just switch out a few bulbs. The LED, good bad or indifferent your stuck with the spectrum ranges of the bulbs and can't really adjust without dimming.
 
Last edited:
mattb said:
Finally a guinea pig! Sweet! I have an ATI Power Module that has 10 bulbs. This pretty much covers the entire 120 (like 23" wide). Even with it 3" above the waterline, I don't get more than 1 degree change in temperature...

That article by Dana leaves some important things out when comparing PAR, reflector choice. This makes a difference. It interesting that they are using blue LEDs that peak at 450nm, as opposed to the 420nm (peak absorbtion at this range by zoox)

:poke: when you get it, you'll need to have another meeting....
Click to expand...

Good point. I also wish Dana would of compared the unit to a 400w MH - instead of the 250.

AquaIllumination LED Light Systems
Capable of producing as much light as a 400W metal halide system while using up to 50% less energy and producing a fraction of the heat. Sunrise, daylight, sunset and lunar light cycles all included.
Click to expand...
 
4" ATI 10 bulbs T5 fixture.
i have a 6 bulbs Tek over my 180 now, test comes out at the bottom of the tank with 1" sandbed about 130-140 par.
 
clownnut said:
4" ATI 10 bulbs T5 fixture.
i have a 6 bulbs Tek over my 180 now, test comes out at the bottom of the tank with 1" sandbed about 130-140 par.
Click to expand...

There are not many 72" fixtures around.
Would a 48 inch good fixture with very high output T5's do it on a 72" tank?
 
2 bulb 5' t-5 retro on an ice cap (4 bulb if you are nasty).
1 400 W pendant on a light rail.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Back
Top