If the ATI is 3x the cost of the Tek... no way I would pump out a grand for a 3' T-5 fixture.
Lights for new 180G (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MAXreefer
- Start date
But the tek doesn't even have active cooling ( = less output), and is hardly as stylish as the Power Module, just my opinion, it's not an apples to apples comparison...
Matt,
How often are you changing bulbs? On a 10 unit fixture - I'd guess the cost to replace them would be approx $300 including shipping.
How selective do you really need to be in placing your SPS in the lower portions of the tank?
..."Recommended Tank Depth: up to 30" with carefully planned placement of corals."
oke: when you get it, you'll need to have another meeting
:biggrin:...if I get it. Will do.
Can you recommend a fixture that would compare to the ATI...and that's BLACK
Easy... the Solar Flare.... GREAT fixture active cooling, IC reflectors (the best), and overdriven for the extra punch to hit the bottom! I had one on my 120 for a while, it was great, it's 6 bulbs, but I could easily keep sps on the bottom, and even had some bleaching with the one or two lps that I do have....
I'm replacing every 6 months....
I'm replacing every 6 months....
Perfect. Thanks Matt. They have them in black :beerchug:. Can you give me some advice on the 6 bulbs please? Who has the best price?
OP
OP
I have been looking into that fixture also. Looks really nice.
Would it cover up a 180 (72x24x24) ?
Ouch...
Li is adamant about the benefit of having some dark on each side to as to not have to scrape all the time, and it keeps the powerheads clean....
It's a great fixture...
I don't switch out quite as often as Matt. It really depends on what your keeping and the fixture/setup. For me, I have several corals that clue me in on when to change and that ends up around the 8-10 month mark which is very similiar to when corals let me know when to change my SE 400W 20K MH's back in the day. For others though with less demanding and more of a community, 12 months plus is not unheard off. Spectrum is fine, it's just if you corals can handle the intensity drop off over time.
Now that I'm pretty much locked in to my bulb preferences, I buy my bulbs a case at a time to save $ per bulb. Gets me down to about $17 per and I only have 5 on the show ( soon to be 8 when upgrade to a 180g ) vs. Matt's 10.
Now that I'm pretty much locked in to my bulb preferences, I buy my bulbs a case at a time to save $ per bulb. Gets me down to about $17 per and I only have 5 on the show ( soon to be 8 when upgrade to a 180g ) vs. Matt's 10.
Not to get too off topic, but are you changing all the bulbs at the same time at the 8-10 month mark? Matt, same questions, are you changing all the bulbs at the 6 month mark?
Also, for those interested in seeing the 6-bulb ATI fixture, you're welcome to stop by and see it over a 4' tank. Might give you an idea on what type of bulb combo you like.
Also, for those interested in seeing the 6-bulb ATI fixture, you're welcome to stop by and see it over a 4' tank. Might give you an idea on what type of bulb combo you like.
JS_racer
Senior Member
2 super and 3 act/white ??
Basically yes. Best case I change them out just a week or so apart. If I did anything else I'd have to get more organized and actually write down which bulbs I replaced and when becuase I'd never keep it straight as to which is the oldest. I'm just not that organized, like I said the corals are my main trigger when to replace.
Yep for the show.
My 29g softy tank actually does better with 6.5k GE lighting and use the ATI Blue+ to help mask the yellow becuase it's just 2 bulbs.
My 29g Anemone tank is the ATI blue+ and ATI aquablue as the rose and green w/purple tip bubble anemones look especially nice with heavy blue lighting to show off the colors..
I've been emailing back and forth with Greg at reefgeek. I was still leaning towards the LED fixture until his last email.
:coolmad::nuts:
:coolmad:
:nuts:Hi Dave,
The stainless steel accent is no longer on the front of the fixture as we recently changed the set-up of the lights to a completely modular design/set-up. This new design provides much better coverage from front to back of the tank as well as giving the user the flexibility to move the lights from left to right depending on their individual tank needs. The only drawback to the new design in my mind is that it looks a little bit more industrial than the original fixture. (The attached photo of a new 2x90W should help explain.)
To acclimate your tank to the new lights you can simply set the maximum intensity of the lights to say 50% of their full output to start as this should approximately simulate a 2x150W metal halide set-up. Current lead time is approximately 2 weeks.
If you have any additional questions, just let me know. We are here to help!
Best Regards,
Greg Morgan
ReefGeek, Inc.
310-329-8375
866-295-9230 (toll-free)
apples to apples is the life of the fixture and bulbs they run and its effectiveness on growing corals (which is the PAR needed).
The tek hood I started with in 04, though rusted a bit, is still growing corals the same as it did the first day. Features don't impress me unless they are nominally more expensive. This is not the case.
OP
OP
Thanks Dobbs for your input.
So far I will probably going with one of the options below.
In general no matter what light system I choose they all have pro and cons. Also everybody has is own preferences and experiences.
Right now I am looking into the lights for the 180G which will have a canopy to hold the lights.
I really like a setup which includes MH lights as I have one on my 95G but I would like to find a solution that consumes less power and produces less heat so my chiller runs less frequently.
The most expensive would be a full 72" 6x90W AquaIllumination Modular LED Light System w/ Controller which would fit nicely in the canopy. I admit the initial cost won't probably justify the savings on power and heat in the short run for sure.
Therefore I have been thinking also about a combination of T5's and LED's. I spoke to Reefgeek and they thought that would be a cool idea also.
Below is a drawing of my idea. I probably won't need the 60' retro which I first had in mind.
So far I will probably going with one of the options below.
In general no matter what light system I choose they all have pro and cons. Also everybody has is own preferences and experiences.
Right now I am looking into the lights for the 180G which will have a canopy to hold the lights.
I really like a setup which includes MH lights as I have one on my 95G but I would like to find a solution that consumes less power and produces less heat so my chiller runs less frequently.
The most expensive would be a full 72" 6x90W AquaIllumination Modular LED Light System w/ Controller which would fit nicely in the canopy. I admit the initial cost won't probably justify the savings on power and heat in the short run for sure.
Therefore I have been thinking also about a combination of T5's and LED's. I spoke to Reefgeek and they thought that would be a cool idea also.
Below is a drawing of my idea. I probably won't need the 60' retro which I first had in mind.
Thanks Dobbs for your input.
So far I will probably going with one of the options below.
In general no matter what light system I choose they all have pro and cons. Also everybody has is own preferences and experiences.
Right now I am looking into the lights for the 180G which will have a canopy to hold the lights.
I really like a setup which includes MH lights as I have one on my 95G but I would like to find a solution that consumes less power and produces less heat so my chiller runs less frequently.
The most expensive would be a full 72" 6x90W AquaIllumination Modular LED Light System w/ Controller which would fit nicely in the canopy. I admit the initial cost won't probably justify the savings on power and heat in the short run for sure.
Therefore I have been thinking also about a combination of T5's and LED's. I spoke to Reefgeek and they thought that would be a cool idea also.
Below is a drawing of my idea. I probably won't need the 60' retro which I first had in mind.
That's the same reason I'm shopping around for a new fixture. I'm not going to run a chiller. My tank hit 84...85 the other day with my current MH's. I'm going without a canopy on the new tank...so I want a nice clean look.
I just sent an email directly to ATI....
If the above issues cannot be address - I'll probably go with the Solar Flare...then that causes another issue....2 ballasts that I'm not sure I'll have room for.
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Maxreefer, my only comment is on the 36" T5s. 48" version is basically the same cost, and bulb replacment cost the same. Yet you get an extra 12" of lighting from it. That would reduce your lighting solution by $750 for no additional costs.
Dave, you can't get the ATI in black... they have another fixture, the Sun Power which may be a different color, but I don't know if RG is importing them... There are no leg kits for ATI units, unlike the Solar Flare. I have seen pics of Europeans putting the Sun Power right on top of the tank... It'd be interesting to see if you get a response from them..
Michael, skip the 60" T5s... IMHO...
David, that's a good idea, buying by the case helps A LOT! (I do too).
Fritz, so active cooling isn't a benefit for running T5s? I agree your corals are nice looking.... There are a lot of things that work in this hobby, more that work than that don't. IMHO, there is a difference though having active cooling, but not everyone is neurotic like myself and change their T5s every 6 months either... there's a lot to personal preference....
Michael, skip the 60" T5s... IMHO...
David, that's a good idea, buying by the case helps A LOT! (I do too).
Fritz, so active cooling isn't a benefit for running T5s? I agree your corals are nice looking.... There are a lot of things that work in this hobby, more that work than that don't. IMHO, there is a difference though having active cooling, but not everyone is neurotic like myself and change their T5s every 6 months either... there's a lot to personal preference....