OP
OP
Yep you are right. I'm just messing around to see what happens :beerchug:
Steve's L2 Algae Scrubber (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter data_loss
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Yep you are right. I'm just messing around to see what happens :beerchug:
OP
OP
Week 14
14 days growth
7 days growth
Nitrates @ 3
Phosphates @ 0.0
This week I did 60 gallons in water changes in an approximately 80 gallon system. Water changes were done to support a suffering QT tank but helped to finally bring nitrates down to where I want them.
Algae in display is still a pain in the...
14 days growth
7 days growth
Nitrates @ 3
Phosphates @ 0.0
This week I did 60 gallons in water changes in an approximately 80 gallon system. Water changes were done to support a suffering QT tank but helped to finally bring nitrates down to where I want them.
Algae in display is still a pain in the...
OP
OP
Week 15
Nitrates @ 6
Phosphates @ .02
blah blah blah algae still taking over display blah blah blah
Nitrates @ 6
Phosphates @ .02
blah blah blah algae still taking over display blah blah blah
I have given up on led ats for now; even with feedings down to almost the point where I can easily be accused of starving the fish... There is still ha;
I have the same ATS. Are you looking at adding t5 to it? If so what?
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Don
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OP
I think my blah blah blah attitude today is more from my lost battle with nudibranchs and losing coral than it was with the display algae.
I think what I actually have in my display tank is cyano after looking around a bit this morning. It blows off very easy but in a day or two its right back where it started. It looks like this:
I'm wondering if I should do the 3 days lights out thing. It would probably also be good to stop feeding so much and to try to get more flow in the display tank.
My test numbers have been holding steady for quite a while with the scrubber in place. Before the scrubber my nitrates were constantly climbing faster than water changes would drop them. I actually think the scrubber has helped quite a bit and am far from giving up on LED's.
I think what I actually have in my display tank is cyano after looking around a bit this morning. It blows off very easy but in a day or two its right back where it started. It looks like this:
I'm wondering if I should do the 3 days lights out thing. It would probably also be good to stop feeding so much and to try to get more flow in the display tank.
My test numbers have been holding steady for quite a while with the scrubber in place. Before the scrubber my nitrates were constantly climbing faster than water changes would drop them. I actually think the scrubber has helped quite a bit and am far from giving up on LED's.
The green tone pic looks oh so familiar. except I have seen green, purple and now black stuff. some places it blows away using a turkey baster most places needs a fingernail (soon replaced by a credit card)
from the looks of it what I had was much more aggressive or I wasn't blowing it away as often.. within 3-4 days it would mat everything.
I would +1 whatever you're doing to keep it from taking over the tank. its been a pain to get rid off.. thankfully its gone from the display.
Must note I was on the lower side of water changes and was feeding quite a bit; AFAIK DG and you do quite a bit of water changes. I've started doing bi weekly water changes and also started dosing vinegar the HA is receding but it amazes me how fast it bounces back if I miss dosing vinegar even one day.
from the looks of it what I had was much more aggressive or I wasn't blowing it away as often.. within 3-4 days it would mat everything.
I would +1 whatever you're doing to keep it from taking over the tank. its been a pain to get rid off.. thankfully its gone from the display.
Must note I was on the lower side of water changes and was feeding quite a bit; AFAIK DG and you do quite a bit of water changes. I've started doing bi weekly water changes and also started dosing vinegar the HA is receding but it amazes me how fast it bounces back if I miss dosing vinegar even one day.
I do get decent growth with LEDs. about 1-2 cups from one side every two weeks. Have tried white dominant LEDs on one side and red + blue on the other.
to prove that LEDs grow aquatic plants & FW algae I have LEDs on my 75G planted tank and it grows plants pretty nicely except low light plants. the Java fern doesnt seem to like the light so far, not unexpected as its a low light plant... however it did well under 4 t5's with Icecap SLR's. There's algae growing on the glass and plants, that was unexpected.
So now I'm Going hybrid one T5 bulb each side flanked by LEDs; the theory is T5 grows different stuff than LEDs do; so with this combo it will take care of whatever the other misses. I'm expecting the algae to bloom and grow pretty flowers lol
Steve, nice softy collection! lol I was focusing on the green stuff in the first pass
OP
OP
Thanks :beerchug:
I took the pictures to show you the green stuff...
So it looks like cyano to you?
Yes, time for lights out 3 days/nights. but be prepared for it spring right back if whatever its feeding off is still available, if you're concerned IME lights out does not harm any livestock.. its like a really dark cloudy day. On the other hand when lights returns the tank looks brighter and livelier for obvious reasons
OP
OP
Week 16
Nitrates @ 6
Phosphates @ .04
Numbers have been holding steady even when I don't do water changes. I've been neglecting cleaning the display this week. Still thinking I want to do a good cleaning on it and lights out for 3 days someday soon.
Nitrates @ 6
Phosphates @ .04
Numbers have been holding steady even when I don't do water changes. I've been neglecting cleaning the display this week. Still thinking I want to do a good cleaning on it and lights out for 3 days someday soon.
OP
OP
Week 17 1/2 (3 days late)
17 days growth side
10 days growth side
First cleaning where it was actually worth taking a 3d picture :beerchug:
A LOT more growth this cleaning. Not sure if it is the extra 3 days or if something else is going on. I haven't done a water change in 3 weeks. I'll update this post later with test results, been too busy to maintain the tank at all lately :frown:
Nitrates @ 6
Phosphates @ .02
17 days growth side
10 days growth side
First cleaning where it was actually worth taking a 3d picture :beerchug:
A LOT more growth this cleaning. Not sure if it is the extra 3 days or if something else is going on. I haven't done a water change in 3 weeks. I'll update this post later with test results, been too busy to maintain the tank at all lately :frown:
Nitrates @ 6
Phosphates @ .02
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I will say now that I converted back to T5s on my system, the LEDs performed just fine. My expectations were probably a little too high and did seem to take longer to fully mature. For someone starting out and can do a 24" T5 bulb ( not the spiral kind ) I'd still recommend it over the LEDs because the cost of LEDs is still more than T5 setup + 50pack of bulbs even cheaper if you have some T5 spare parts lying around. Wattage savings was negligible ( within 10w +/- )
LEDs for sure are more tricky to get going, T5s are more of a set and forget setup.
But in the end, phosphate and nitrate levels didn't really change any from LED to T5s. Algae harvest size is very comparable, only a slight if even measurable edge to the T5s.
Like Taklu mentioned, reducing water changes was never one of my goals it would just be a nice to have if did reduce costs some. Some say they haven't done water change in over a year. I just don't see that as being a good thing. I still do 40g a week on a 180g system + 1 extra 40g once a months to totally clean out the sump of detritous so approx. 200g a month total ( 5 bags of Instant Ocean so 1.25 boxes per month or around $50 ). .12ppm phosphate is about the highest reading I've seen since ATS most times it's more like .07ppm ish and have yet to resort to any GFO ( I'd probably do more water changes instead). Never had any algae issues or show tank since ATS startup. It has always been a steady downward on algae on the rocks and by the 5 months mark practically non-existant even coralline algae was falling off leaving bare rock. I probably do more maintenance than the average hobbies too: water changes, blow detritus off the rocks every couple of days, siphon substrate every week of detritus, drain sump once a month to remove detritus etc. Who knows my maintenance schedule alone might be sufficient. So I'm not a lazy hobbiest and don't look at ATS as the total solution.
LEDs for sure are more tricky to get going, T5s are more of a set and forget setup.
But in the end, phosphate and nitrate levels didn't really change any from LED to T5s. Algae harvest size is very comparable, only a slight if even measurable edge to the T5s.
Like Taklu mentioned, reducing water changes was never one of my goals it would just be a nice to have if did reduce costs some. Some say they haven't done water change in over a year. I just don't see that as being a good thing. I still do 40g a week on a 180g system + 1 extra 40g once a months to totally clean out the sump of detritous so approx. 200g a month total ( 5 bags of Instant Ocean so 1.25 boxes per month or around $50 ). .12ppm phosphate is about the highest reading I've seen since ATS most times it's more like .07ppm ish and have yet to resort to any GFO ( I'd probably do more water changes instead). Never had any algae issues or show tank since ATS startup. It has always been a steady downward on algae on the rocks and by the 5 months mark practically non-existant even coralline algae was falling off leaving bare rock. I probably do more maintenance than the average hobbies too: water changes, blow detritus off the rocks every couple of days, siphon substrate every week of detritus, drain sump once a month to remove detritus etc. Who knows my maintenance schedule alone might be sufficient. So I'm not a lazy hobbiest and don't look at ATS as the total solution.
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Sorry that I did look through this thread as I'm busy right now. But wanted to quick ask if you guys are checking your DT potassium levels. Mine had dropped for the first time with a ATS. It was at 340 (before it was always 400)after just a couple months. I'm doing about 10% WC per month and the algae is slowly going away in the tank. 
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Don
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Don
OP
OP
I'm not currently testing for potassium.
It sounds needed with a ATS. Maybe not with a calcium reactor though i don't know. I hear Salifert is the test kit to get. I have a FM kit from just before at came out, So next time.
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Don
Without the amount of water changes I do, ends up about 200g on a 180g+60g sump per month, I don't imagine that levels whould be any lower than whatever the salt itself has since my one month turnover in water is more equal to your 10+ month. So I'm not concerned nor worried about any trace element levels getting depleted. At some point, I might slow down on water changes but for now it's working and tank looks simply marvelous. About as pristine and sterile looking ( yet very well fed ) as you will probably find for a reef tank.
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100% WC
That is the largest % per month that I have ever heard of on a large system. Do you even have to add ALK, CA Or MAG? Glad to hear that you now think that the Leds are very close to T5's. I wonder if people will find that they should dim Leds down to help get the algae started. I did the 2 hours on then 2 hours off for a total of 8 hours for a couple weeks.
That is the largest % per month that I have ever heard of on a large system. Do you even have to add ALK, CA Or MAG? Glad to hear that you now think that the Leds are very close to T5's. I wonder if people will find that they should dim Leds down to help get the algae started. I did the 2 hours on then 2 hours off for a total of 8 hours for a couple weeks.
Dimming LEDs is going to vary based on how you configure it. If you use 60-80degree LEDs you have a much greater chance of needing too. Distance from the screen is going to play a major factor as well. Regardless it's probably a good thing to plan ahead and get a dimmable ballast. My distance was 4" away from the screen on each side using 120degree and 700ma driver. Dimming wasn't necessary.
I've done 40g a week water changes ( 1 box of Instant Ocean per month ) for several years now. It's easy becuase that's the size of an instant ocean bag so I use the whole thing and don't need to try to store any opened bags and let it get lumpy. I did use Tropic Marin 200g buckets 6 total but that was costing close to $100 a month and wasn't worth it. Tank does just as well on Instant Ocean at half the cost. Within the last 4-5 months started adding the extra 40g once a month so I can totally drain and shopvac the 60g sump/frag. Yes, 40g a week is not enough to maintain Alk/CA alone for my system. Kalkwasser and I add Ca Chloride and Magnesium Chloride/Sulphate mix to my freshly mixed saltwater becuase Instant Ocean is lacking the levels I like to maintain. No other supplements except for occasional iron for the ATS.
I've done 40g a week water changes ( 1 box of Instant Ocean per month ) for several years now. It's easy becuase that's the size of an instant ocean bag so I use the whole thing and don't need to try to store any opened bags and let it get lumpy. I did use Tropic Marin 200g buckets 6 total but that was costing close to $100 a month and wasn't worth it. Tank does just as well on Instant Ocean at half the cost. Within the last 4-5 months started adding the extra 40g once a month so I can totally drain and shopvac the 60g sump/frag. Yes, 40g a week is not enough to maintain Alk/CA alone for my system. Kalkwasser and I add Ca Chloride and Magnesium Chloride/Sulphate mix to my freshly mixed saltwater becuase Instant Ocean is lacking the levels I like to maintain. No other supplements except for occasional iron for the ATS.
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