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jlanger's Reef Build: Episode II - The 120gal Strikes Back (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jlanger
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- 120 gallon coral fish reef tank build
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
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Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
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As a wise man (or wise ass) recently said, "This hobby really sucks sometimes!"
I came home today to find the pintail wrasse missing. I eventually found him lodged in the gap behind the overflow box and back glass. How he got lodged in there, I don't know. The gap should only be the thickness of the bulkhead flange, but it appears to have been seated at a slight angle; enough for the body of the wrasse to get stuck. And I was all worried about keeping the screen top in place.
Note to self... periodically check on the overflow box.
"This hobby really sucks sometimes!"
I came home today to find the pintail wrasse missing. I eventually found him lodged in the gap behind the overflow box and back glass. How he got lodged in there, I don't know. The gap should only be the thickness of the bulkhead flange, but it appears to have been seated at a slight angle; enough for the body of the wrasse to get stuck. And I was all worried about keeping the screen top in place.
Note to self... periodically check on the overflow box.
"This hobby really sucks sometimes!"
Sorry to hear. Never would of thought about that. Maybe make an acrylic gap filler? Or is it ok now that it’s seated better?
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
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Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
The gap appears tighter than before, but I've already been thinking about and designing an acrylic "gasket" to seal off the entire perimeter of the overflow box.
Bummer... not what you'd expect to find.
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
Lifetime Member
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Meeting Host 2020
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I think my build thread title has foreshadowed how this system will progress; the Empire is winning.
Over the past couple of weeks, I had been steadily seeing a gradually increase in a nuisance algae covering my rocks. It started out as a short transparent hair-like algae. Over time, it has darkened into a coppery-brown color. Where there is direct light, it grows. Where there isn't direct light, it's non-existent. The back glass was covered and it would scrape off quite easily, but it would grow back quickly. Each week that I would perform a cleaning and water change, the algae seemed to explode.
I started trying to find the reasoning behind the invasive algae.
I tested my water and found that my nutrient levels in the display are undetectable. My calcium, carbonates and magnesium levels were low (more on that later) and I started dosing 2 part to keep it in check.
I checked my RODI unit. The output TDS levels read zero. Even though my DI resin looked to be only 50% depleted, it was actually more depleted. I changed out all of the filters and resin. My TDS readings are still at zero, but it has me wondering if a TDS meter ever goes bad. Do they?
I thoroughly cleaned all of my mixing barrels and water change supplies with cleaning vinegar.
My algae scrubber was growing algae and provided decent harvests after just a couple of months of being installed.
I changed out the carbon weekly and added a bag of phosphate remover to see if that would help.
After more water changes, the problem persists.
What is going on???
Has anyone ever dealt with lyngbya?
After some random Google searches for nuisance algae that looked clear/brown and was resisting all remedies, I found some links for a cyanobacteria called lyngbya. No wonder it wasn't responding to any treatments for algae. After briefly reading through a few threads of people dealing with lyngbya, it sounds like this is going to be a nightmare. Different people offering different remedies with differing results. If it is a lyngbya infestation, this is all new to me.
All of the rock is covered in this stuff. The rubble substrate (that receives direct light) is covered in this stuff. My glass gets covered with this stuff. It's ugly!!!
I do have a small amount of flucanazole on hand from my attempts at removing bryopsis/dinos in my office tank a year or so ago. I'm not sure if that will help, but it's where I'm going to start.
Remember my low calcium, carbonates and magnesium levels?
Since I've been waiting for the Kamoer dosing pump to get back in stock, I had been just maintaining my levels with regular water changes. Since I had added my old corals back not the system, some of those included montipora corals which really sucked the carbonates out of the water. Many of the acropora (and montippora) frags started to pale out and STN. My alkalinity levels dropped well below 6 dKH. I immediately ordered some of the new Pharma grade BRS 2-part additives and started to raise the levels back up. Over the past two weeks, I'm back up to just under 8 dKH and have been stable since last weekend. Victory!!??
Not in this episode.
I woke up this morning to find that almost every last SPS coral has crashed. The LPS corals look just fine; one of them has been irritated but I blame the tuskfish for that. My new system resembles the desert moon Jedha just as the Death Star performs it's first test and I'm about to go all Krennic on this reboot.
If anyone has experience with lyngbya, please advise.
But my fish are doing well.
I'm still saddened by the loss of the pintail.
I added a tiny Yellow Tang last weekend; thinking I was dealing with an algae issue. The tiny tang is all but 2" in length; similarly sized to the Kole tang. The Kole Tang wasn't thrilled the first day, but now they get along just fine. I started this hobby twenty-seven years ago and this is the very first yellow tang that I have ever owned. Imagine that.
Over the past couple of weeks, I had been steadily seeing a gradually increase in a nuisance algae covering my rocks. It started out as a short transparent hair-like algae. Over time, it has darkened into a coppery-brown color. Where there is direct light, it grows. Where there isn't direct light, it's non-existent. The back glass was covered and it would scrape off quite easily, but it would grow back quickly. Each week that I would perform a cleaning and water change, the algae seemed to explode.
I started trying to find the reasoning behind the invasive algae.
I tested my water and found that my nutrient levels in the display are undetectable. My calcium, carbonates and magnesium levels were low (more on that later) and I started dosing 2 part to keep it in check.
I checked my RODI unit. The output TDS levels read zero. Even though my DI resin looked to be only 50% depleted, it was actually more depleted. I changed out all of the filters and resin. My TDS readings are still at zero, but it has me wondering if a TDS meter ever goes bad. Do they?
I thoroughly cleaned all of my mixing barrels and water change supplies with cleaning vinegar.
My algae scrubber was growing algae and provided decent harvests after just a couple of months of being installed.
I changed out the carbon weekly and added a bag of phosphate remover to see if that would help.
After more water changes, the problem persists.
What is going on???
Has anyone ever dealt with lyngbya?
After some random Google searches for nuisance algae that looked clear/brown and was resisting all remedies, I found some links for a cyanobacteria called lyngbya. No wonder it wasn't responding to any treatments for algae. After briefly reading through a few threads of people dealing with lyngbya, it sounds like this is going to be a nightmare. Different people offering different remedies with differing results. If it is a lyngbya infestation, this is all new to me.
All of the rock is covered in this stuff. The rubble substrate (that receives direct light) is covered in this stuff. My glass gets covered with this stuff. It's ugly!!!
I do have a small amount of flucanazole on hand from my attempts at removing bryopsis/dinos in my office tank a year or so ago. I'm not sure if that will help, but it's where I'm going to start.
Remember my low calcium, carbonates and magnesium levels?
Since I've been waiting for the Kamoer dosing pump to get back in stock, I had been just maintaining my levels with regular water changes. Since I had added my old corals back not the system, some of those included montipora corals which really sucked the carbonates out of the water. Many of the acropora (and montippora) frags started to pale out and STN. My alkalinity levels dropped well below 6 dKH. I immediately ordered some of the new Pharma grade BRS 2-part additives and started to raise the levels back up. Over the past two weeks, I'm back up to just under 8 dKH and have been stable since last weekend. Victory!!??
Not in this episode.
I woke up this morning to find that almost every last SPS coral has crashed. The LPS corals look just fine; one of them has been irritated but I blame the tuskfish for that. My new system resembles the desert moon Jedha just as the Death Star performs it's first test and I'm about to go all Krennic on this reboot.
If anyone has experience with lyngbya, please advise.
But my fish are doing well.
I'm still saddened by the loss of the pintail.
I added a tiny Yellow Tang last weekend; thinking I was dealing with an algae issue. The tiny tang is all but 2" in length; similarly sized to the Kole tang. The Kole Tang wasn't thrilled the first day, but now they get along just fine. I started this hobby twenty-seven years ago and this is the very first yellow tang that I have ever owned. Imagine that.
I have no experience with that. But I wonder if chemiclean would work since it is a cynobacteria?
I have some vibrant you could try out, although I myself am not a big fan of it as it bottomed out my PO4 and I haven't been able to keep it up since. I'm sure it would work I just fear the side effects.
Pretty cool about the yellow tang. Happy to hear both tangs are getting along!
Overall, sounds like some NTS scaries. Patience and Perseverance my friend! The Ashla will overcome.
Pretty cool about the yellow tang. Happy to hear both tangs are getting along!
Overall, sounds like some NTS scaries. Patience and Perseverance my friend! The Ashla will overcome.
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Davy Jones
Senior Member
Hydrogen peroxide dosing works well for most algae/cyano. I did it in the past to fight dinos 2 tanks ago and it almost instantly removed the cyano that was also present at the time (but did not kill the dino infection)
Welcome back with a new tank, right? I seem to have had ups and downs with mine as well. Too much this, not enough of that. After about 8 months I seem to have a little more balance and hope to be going in a better direction.
I have a great business idea..."2 Year Aquarium" We create an additive that you add to a new tank, and after in conditions the water and rock for a few weeks, you are at the 2 years stage of a balanced reef. All we need to do is create the right ingredients. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. My idea...NOT REEFKING @Reefking
I have a great business idea..."2 Year Aquarium" We create an additive that you add to a new tank, and after in conditions the water and rock for a few weeks, you are at the 2 years stage of a balanced reef. All we need to do is create the right ingredients. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. My idea...NOT REEFKING @Reefking
I dealt with chrysophytes when I started my 45g, similar to what you're dealing with. The issue was that I started with completely dead rock and then introduced saltwater/light immediately - never gave the rock time to cure properly. I knocked it out by doing a few lights out periods, manual removal, and a bunch of vibrant. Raising my nutrient levels helped too. You might have to do a few passes of manual removal and lights out to help your turf scrubber out compete it.
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
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Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
I've had good luck with the UltraLife Red Slime Remover with cyano, so a new bottle of that was delivered today. First wave.
I have a couple bottles of Vibrant on hand, but I didn't want top wipe out my algae culture on the ATS. But at this point, what good is an operational scrubber when there's all of this crap to deal with.
Your experience mirrors this somewhat. I did add multiple cultures of bacteria to seed the rock, but once the diatom bloom disappeared, I added twenty corals and then the three wrasses. But if this is truly a bacterial issue (not an algae issue), I'm perplexed as to how it came about.
Just today at work, I had the thought of turning off two of the Radions to limit light on the display; the T5 bulbs have been since Friday.
So you dosed Vibrant and continued to use the ATS? I would think the Vibrant would affect the scrubber's algae just as well as what's in the display.
I'll take some NSFR (Not Safe For Reefing) photos of the display tonight and post what a disaster this has become.
Here's a close up photo of what Is growing on the rock; camera flashed so it's more clear than pink. You can see how it looks closer to your typical cyanobacteria than an algae.
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
Lifetime Member
Event Committee
Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
Lifetime Member
Event Committee
Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
WARNING
THE FOLLOWING CONTENT MAY CONTAIN ELEMENTS
THAT ARE NOT SUITABLE FOR SOME AUDIENCES.
VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED.
THE FOLLOWING CONTENT MAY CONTAIN ELEMENTS
THAT ARE NOT SUITABLE FOR SOME AUDIENCES.
VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED.
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
Lifetime Member
Event Committee
Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
So this is what my 120gal system looks like right now.
Here's a closer photo showing the dead corals and what the lyngbya looks like.
All of the SPS corals are dead.
The LPS corals are hanging in there.
The fish are doing well; eating and looking healthy.
The trochus snails are doing okay; not eating this crap.
My attack plan is to remove the dead corals and start dosing the Red Slime Remover. I'll monitor the ORP levels to see if there's a drop in oxygen levels. I'll try to keep the protein skimmer operational to help maintain the oxygen levels, but it will likely overflow due to the RSR. I've turned off two of the Radion fixtures, so there's just the center fixture operating now. Carbon will be removed. I'm still going to keep the ATS running for now, but I'll monitor the algae. If the algae culture crashes, I'll take it offline.
Sit and wait.
Here's a closer photo showing the dead corals and what the lyngbya looks like.
All of the SPS corals are dead.
The LPS corals are hanging in there.
The fish are doing well; eating and looking healthy.
The trochus snails are doing okay; not eating this crap.
My attack plan is to remove the dead corals and start dosing the Red Slime Remover. I'll monitor the ORP levels to see if there's a drop in oxygen levels. I'll try to keep the protein skimmer operational to help maintain the oxygen levels, but it will likely overflow due to the RSR. I've turned off two of the Radion fixtures, so there's just the center fixture operating now. Carbon will be removed. I'm still going to keep the ATS running for now, but I'll monitor the algae. If the algae culture crashes, I'll take it offline.
Sit and wait.
I should have stopped scrolling at the warning... that stuff sucks!
I can't say that I've ever been plagued with that, but have had consistent luck with RSR/ChemiClean with the more common red and green slime varieties. I've never been able to skim, even wide open in the first 24 hours of treatment unless I took the collection cup off and just let it overflow.
I know the feeling– hang in there!
I can't say that I've ever been plagued with that, but have had consistent luck with RSR/ChemiClean with the more common red and green slime varieties. I've never been able to skim, even wide open in the first 24 hours of treatment unless I took the collection cup off and just let it overflow.
I know the feeling– hang in there!
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
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Event Committee
Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
The rebellion begins; Operation RSR-1 has been initiated.
Red Slime Remover has been added. Protein skimmer valve is wide open and the DC pump turned down a couple of steps. Microbubbles everywhere!
@ArcKatana
I read through that one (and many others) on Sunday. I had a bag of phosphate remover in the filter cup following my ATS that I promptly removed. Since I originally thought this was an algae issue, I added the media which must have stripped my system of any nutrients thus causing issues with the corals and lyngbya. If Neptune Systems can get their Trident "module" working flawlessly, maybe they should start working on a N03/PO4 monitoring module.
If you can look past the devastation of the display, did anyone notice the little tangs?
I have yet to ever name a single fish, but it's hard not to look at the yellow tang and not want to call him "Threepio."
Red Slime Remover has been added. Protein skimmer valve is wide open and the DC pump turned down a couple of steps. Microbubbles everywhere!
@ArcKatana
I read through that one (and many others) on Sunday. I had a bag of phosphate remover in the filter cup following my ATS that I promptly removed. Since I originally thought this was an algae issue, I added the media which must have stripped my system of any nutrients thus causing issues with the corals and lyngbya. If Neptune Systems can get their Trident "module" working flawlessly, maybe they should start working on a N03/PO4 monitoring module.
If you can look past the devastation of the display, did anyone notice the little tangs?
I have yet to ever name a single fish, but it's hard not to look at the yellow tang and not want to call him "Threepio."
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
Lifetime Member
Event Committee
Meeting Host 2020
Meeting Host 2021
Meeting Host 2022
On the Light Side... BRS just notified me that the Kamoer FX-STP Dosing Pump is back in stock, so that'll be on its way when Echo Base opens back up.