AmyZ
I am just fishy geek that crochets :D
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I do, two days after I got back my nem split...ugh
Snodgrass 300gal Evolving Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RSnodgrass
- Start date
I do, two days after I got back my nem split...ugh
That's how I lost some coral I my 45g.
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Was selling some corals to New Wave today, scored a couple awesome favia and some other burning bush/man something or other... it's bright yellow and red. I'll try to get some photos after the weekend.
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pics or it never happened 
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Adding a ReefLink tonight for controlling my Radions since EcoTech isn't allowing Apex to do it properly.
If no one hears from me after this it's because it did me in.
For anyone on the fence about buying these new you're in luck because their cost just went up. It should make your decision easier
If no one hears from me after this it's because it did me in.
For anyone on the fence about buying these new you're in luck because their cost just went up. It should make your decision easier
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I'm 3hrs into my attempt to set these up... it's like a party in my office!
No joke, my lights keep strobing and I can't figure out if they're trying to warn me about a tornado or if the Notorious BIG is about to break into a nostalgic song with P Diddy.
No joke, my lights keep strobing and I can't figure out if they're trying to warn me about a tornado or if the Notorious BIG is about to break into a nostalgic song with P Diddy.
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Shiny new toys... 
Great pics, corals look healthy n happy.
What are you using for a camera?
What are you using for a camera?
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Google pixel III
Awesome! I have a pixel 2XL, may not get a camera until I feel it's needed.
I'd be interested in some better quick connect too.
I used:
into swabbie housing no issue. Splicing it smoothly into power cord was a lot of hassle to make it look good, staggered splices, used shrink tube on each wire and then 4th over the 3 wires. I wouldn't want to do that on each of my wire :/ Has to be a better option out there and not some huge clunky beast
I used:
into swabbie housing no issue. Splicing it smoothly into power cord was a lot of hassle to make it look good, staggered splices, used shrink tube on each wire and then 4th over the 3 wires. I wouldn't want to do that on each of my wire :/ Has to be a better option out there and not some huge clunky beast
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Well my solenoid bipass experiment used to direct RO water between the kalk reactor and directly to the tank was fun... now it's being replaced.
The loud popping sound as it turns on and off is a bit distracting. Also, more importantly during the season (evaporation) changes I'm finding I need to tweak the Apex timing, controlling when it runs, alot to keep things consistent.
Instead, I got another spectra pure dosing pump and I'll run both off the same RO water line. One will run based solely on pH and control the kalk the other put pure RO into the tank. The pure RO will only have the option to run for 30min a day (mid morning) if the ato sensor is still low. This will be to keep up with evap as my kalk pins my pH exactly at 8.35.
Additionally I'll put some voltage warnings on them to be notified of a failure. Since my probes control the run times I won't need to worry about calibration of pumps or tubes being replaced as frequently.
The loud popping sound as it turns on and off is a bit distracting. Also, more importantly during the season (evaporation) changes I'm finding I need to tweak the Apex timing, controlling when it runs, alot to keep things consistent.
Instead, I got another spectra pure dosing pump and I'll run both off the same RO water line. One will run based solely on pH and control the kalk the other put pure RO into the tank. The pure RO will only have the option to run for 30min a day (mid morning) if the ato sensor is still low. This will be to keep up with evap as my kalk pins my pH exactly at 8.35.
Additionally I'll put some voltage warnings on them to be notified of a failure. Since my probes control the run times I won't need to worry about calibration of pumps or tubes being replaced as frequently.
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Well my wife is out of town so it's time to get extra tank stuff done as well as update on some ch3that I've been making.
Found the parts to make a bunch of 24v adapters on my Apex for super cheap. One will be used to shut down a solenoid on my water supply after filling is complete and for a leak detection. The physical diaphragm has stopped working fully to shut down the water in the system. The parts and solenoid cost about the same as a new diaphragm.
Trying to get an achilles tang through quarantine but it's kind of thin so we'll see what happens. At least it is eating.
Added a single t5 and noticed several corals improving on color, and also had two others start to look iffy. At Langers suggestion I tested potassium level and found them very low. Going to send in an IPC to verify but in the meantime did a 60 gal water change since it's been some time.
Also increased my AWC to 2 gal a day since 1 gal wasn't enough to matter. Found a 100 gal RV water tank that I'll be replacing my 30 gal tank with so I don't have to mix salt so frequently. Should get me about 3 months worth on my auto water changer.
Added on to my ATO switches for redundancy and to improve performance of my kalk reactor a bit more. There are two water sensors controlling the sump height. The lower of the two controls fresh water top off and the upper controls kalk top off. My water generally runs at a deficit so this ensures my kalk will run nearly all day every day to control pH. The kalk chamber mods are still working exceedingly well and my time between refills has extended to a month.
Had to add another PowerBar and break out box, also added a pm 1 for redundant pH control since my system is highly dependent on that controlling my kalk reactor. I'll be able to have better safe guards around my mixing station with a heater being used. I had a scare when out of town and it exposed a potentially hazardous risk.
Found the parts to make a bunch of 24v adapters on my Apex for super cheap. One will be used to shut down a solenoid on my water supply after filling is complete and for a leak detection. The physical diaphragm has stopped working fully to shut down the water in the system. The parts and solenoid cost about the same as a new diaphragm.
Trying to get an achilles tang through quarantine but it's kind of thin so we'll see what happens. At least it is eating.
Added a single t5 and noticed several corals improving on color, and also had two others start to look iffy. At Langers suggestion I tested potassium level and found them very low. Going to send in an IPC to verify but in the meantime did a 60 gal water change since it's been some time.
Also increased my AWC to 2 gal a day since 1 gal wasn't enough to matter. Found a 100 gal RV water tank that I'll be replacing my 30 gal tank with so I don't have to mix salt so frequently. Should get me about 3 months worth on my auto water changer.
Added on to my ATO switches for redundancy and to improve performance of my kalk reactor a bit more. There are two water sensors controlling the sump height. The lower of the two controls fresh water top off and the upper controls kalk top off. My water generally runs at a deficit so this ensures my kalk will run nearly all day every day to control pH. The kalk chamber mods are still working exceedingly well and my time between refills has extended to a month.
Had to add another PowerBar and break out box, also added a pm 1 for redundant pH control since my system is highly dependent on that controlling my kalk reactor. I'll be able to have better safe guards around my mixing station with a heater being used. I had a scare when out of town and it exposed a potentially hazardous risk.
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I added a phone splitter to tie in multiple leak detectors to the same port.
Because of how my water station is set up I'm placing two.
1- by the booster pump and tank inlet. Highest pressure is more likely to leak I assume.
2- under the sink. Unlikely but it already happened.
Both will kill water production as well as trip the solenoid at the source to stop all flow.
Next I sealed the edges of my detectors, probably overkill but I've had enough leaks that I don't want the leads to rust off and have to fix them.
Because of how my water station is set up I'm placing two.
1- by the booster pump and tank inlet. Highest pressure is more likely to leak I assume.
2- under the sink. Unlikely but it already happened.
Both will kill water production as well as trip the solenoid at the source to stop all flow.
Next I sealed the edges of my detectors, probably overkill but I've had enough leaks that I don't want the leads to rust off and have to fix them.
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Rocking the label maker on bob 1 & 2
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DIY RO master shut off plug is soldered and working (minus the programming).
DIY 50' aquabus is working thanks to @HouseofStark.
DIY 50' aquabus is working thanks to @HouseofStark.
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More fun this afternoon...
Rearranging my ClariSea so that hopefully it's easier to replace rolls.
Cutting some cords to be shorter.
Tining the ends of all my BOB wires so they hold up better.
Re-did all my ato sensors so there's less tubing and clutter. Also cut all their leads to length and replaced one of the wires.
Admired my collection of feather dusters!
Rearranging my ClariSea so that hopefully it's easier to replace rolls.
Cutting some cords to be shorter.
Tining the ends of all my BOB wires so they hold up better.
Re-did all my ato sensors so there's less tubing and clutter. Also cut all their leads to length and replaced one of the wires.
Admired my collection of feather dusters!
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Successful evening that our fellow OCD (Obsessive Cord Disorder) members would be proud of!
Everything is rebundled, zip tied with matching zip ties to the cords AND facing the same way no less.
Living dangerously after opening a cord management channel attached underneath the stand. Should have went with a 2"x2" channel instead of 1"x2" though.
Also moved my AWC pumps to a different location to free up space and clutter under the stand. Then fixed the water lines, updated programming, etc.
Everything is rebundled, zip tied with matching zip ties to the cords AND facing the same way no less.
Living dangerously after opening a cord management channel attached underneath the stand. Should have went with a 2"x2" channel instead of 1"x2" though.
Also moved my AWC pumps to a different location to free up space and clutter under the stand. Then fixed the water lines, updated programming, etc.
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Some night shots...
Turquoise brain
Space Invader Pectina getting bigger...
Old war favia...
Fancy favia... gold, turquoise, and red.
Some other fancy favia with lots of color.
Meteor shower favia, great look at how knoby it gets.
Turquoise brain
Space Invader Pectina getting bigger...
Old war favia...
Fancy favia... gold, turquoise, and red.
Some other fancy favia with lots of color.
Meteor shower favia, great look at how knoby it gets.
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Week one QT in the bag...
