Looking good! If I had a bigger budget XR15 w diffusers and T5 would be my lighting choice as well.
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jlanger's Reef Build: Episode II - The 120gal Strikes Back (1 Viewer)
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- 120 gallon coral fish reef tank build
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jlanger
@thatfishcookieguy
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Thanks guys.
There are a couple of benefits from going with the three XR15 fixtures over only two XR30 fixtures.
Cost; obviously,
Placement; I can adjust the middle fixture to where I need more light.
Power supply; the XR15 fixtures only have a small power block versus the large ballast box that my old XR30 fixtures had.
Potential expansion; I have the room to add another fixture if I really need the extra light, but I don't see the need yet.
There are a couple of benefits from going with the three XR15 fixtures over only two XR30 fixtures.
Cost; obviously,
Placement; I can adjust the middle fixture to where I need more light.
Power supply; the XR15 fixtures only have a small power block versus the large ballast box that my old XR30 fixtures had.
Potential expansion; I have the room to add another fixture if I really need the extra light, but I don't see the need yet.
Is that because the Ecotech hanging wires have a decent track record???@spsickIn the end I should have done it though.
Something like that...Is that because the Ecotech hanging wires have a decent track record???
Thanks guys.
There are a couple of benefits from going with the three XR15 fixtures over only two XR30 fixtures.
Cost; obviously,
Placement; I can adjust the middle fixture to where I need more light.
Power supply; the XR15 fixtures only have a small power block versus the large ballast box that my old XR30 fixtures had.
Potential expansion; I have the room to add another fixture if I really need the extra light, but I don't see the need yet.
Is that because the Ecotech hanging wires have a decent track record???
I think the 3 smaller units will serve you better than 2 XR30’s. When I had my 120 up and running, I also had 2 XR30’s and it was way overpowered in my opinion. For most of the 3 years it was up, I was running them at only 55% or so. Also, I like that it gives you more spacing options.
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jlanger
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Yep, I ran the old XR30 fixtures at a maximum of 75% with the TIR lenses so there was plenty of extra light available.
Right now, I have the maximum setting at 65% and that's with the new diffusers installed. Once the corals adjust to my tank. I'll try ramping the lighting up again to see where that sweet spot is again.
Do you/will you have a top on the tank? I keep seeing these beautiful wrasses but they all caution jumping. Wondering if i should avoid all together or think about adding a top.
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jlanger
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There is definitely a screen top in place! I don’t want to lose any of these fish.
I always see people make a big deal over window screes for visibility, etc. I've never paid much attention if there is one better to use on a tank... is there that you know of?
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jlanger
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I've always kept a screen top on all of my tanks and I've used the gambit on the mesh sizes.
My standard go-to mesh is the ¼" clear mesh. I've had a jawfish jump through the ½" mesh, so that's no longer on my list; no matter the tank. The clear mesh has no affect on the amount of light reaching the corals in the tank. The only material that would affect the light penetration/dispersion would be egg crate and I don't think many reefers use that anymore.
Now on my small office tank, I had a ¼" clear mesh screen top and a Yasha Goby managed to jump through. So now I have a screen top that uses the screening material used for windows/patio doors; it's about a 1/16" mesh. It does have some affect on the light penetration but that reef is only soft corals so it doesn't require as much light. In fact, even with the window screen, that light is only running at a maximum level of 70%
I would recommend using the ¼" clear mesh for any screen top. If you ever have any slender fish (i.e. gobies, blennies, dartfishes, jawfishes, dottybacks, wrasses, etc.) that could possibly jump, it's best to be safe with the smaller mesh size.
Most people are also spending $700+ on LED fixtures only to run them at 30%. The small amount of light that the screen top might block could be simply addressed by increasing output on the fixture by 5% or less. I think I remember watching a BRS video about PAR measurements under a screen top vs no screen top and it was something like a 10 PAR difference - but that was for 1/4". It'd be interesting to test again with 1/16".
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acharpenter
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I'm guessing you made the top yourself. Where did you find the 1/16" mesh?
He's probably using window screen that you get at any hardware store.
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jlanger
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Yep. It's just the replacement screen mesh found at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Ace Hardware, etc. Just be sure to get the fiberglass[?] mesh and not the wire mesh.
The simplest test to see if a material will block light is to hang the material in front of a window, stand back and see if you can still see through it. The clear mesh (1/2" and ¼") that everyone uses basically disappears and doesn't block any light. The window screening mesh does block some light just like lookin out your windows with screens installed already; it's shaded, but you can still see through the screen.
BRS did a video testing PAR difference between no top, 1/4" screen and 1/8" screen tops and there's really no discernable difference between them all. Like you mention it was maybe 10 PAR.
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jlanger
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Even with how much I enjoy discussing everything involved with marine aquarium keeping, I just can't have a thread page that is void of any photos.
So here's what I have from this morning... such little tusks!!!
I took 54 photos of just the Eight Line Flasher Wrasse and not a single one of them in focus; or good enough!
I took 18 photos of just the Pintail Fairy Wrasse and not a single photo worth sharing!
Wrasses!!! But I'll keep trying!!!
I suppose I could've posted a photo of the screen top, but that's nothing too exciting.
So here's what I have from this morning... such little tusks!!!
I took 54 photos of just the Eight Line Flasher Wrasse and not a single one of them in focus; or good enough!
I took 18 photos of just the Pintail Fairy Wrasse and not a single photo worth sharing!
Wrasses!!!
But I'll keep trying!!!I suppose I could've posted a photo of the screen top, but that's nothing too exciting.
Great fish choices. Harlequins are so cool.
Even with how much I enjoy discussing everything involved with marine aquarium keeping, I just can't have a thread page that is void of any photos.
So here's what I have from this morning... such little tusks!!!
I took 54 photos of just the Eight Line Flasher Wrasse and not a single one of them in focus; or good enough!
I took 18 photos of just the Pintail Fairy Wrasse and not a single photo worth sharing!
Wrasses!!!
I suppose I could've posted a photo of the screen top, but that's nothing too exciting.
Great photo and Fish. But please tell me more about your screen . Did you name it? I call mine Alcatraz, keeps all the fishes were they are supposed to be. If for some reason they escaped they need to travel about 20 ft through kid infested carpet, scale about 6.5 feet up my other display tank, and hop in. There are no substantiated escapes on record.
Do any of your fish happen to be named Sean Connery?
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jlanger
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For now, it's just a single 2" wide polycarbonate frame machined for a spline to secure the ¼" mesh screen. But I don't like it.
During my next foray into machining polycarbonate (this next week), I'll probably make another frame and go with the aluminum screen top like I have on the smaller tank. The aluminum frames are rigid and easier to handle when cleaning, aquascaping and feeding. I'll probably add a feeding window into the new frame so I don't need to remove the screen to feed.
The polycarbonate frame would help those that are impatient with cleaning their glass, but I have no experience with that.